Does anybody have a solution for a RGBW LED controller reset issue? I went with a Konxie Smart WiFi RGBW LED Controller, off of Amazon. it uses Magic Home Pro has the Wi-Fi controller program. I power it through a Game On power supply that goes on and off with the GI lights. Theproblem is during multi-ball if the GI lights go on and off 3 times the LED controller resets to flashing random colors. Three times on and off is how you reset the LED controller. Any idea how to override this reset? Or does anyone have a suggestion for a LED controller that doesn't reset by going on and off?

I've been reading this thread off and on for a while now. I've created maybe 5 sets of DIY's to great effect, however I've run into an issue, the magnet system I was using works great on my games with non stainless steel mirror blades, but my new MBRLE's blades are non magnetic, and my soon to arrive JPLE has art blades. How are people attaching their DIY's without attaching semi permanent velcro or double sided tape? Apologies if this has been brought up many times.

I really cannot provide much help here - I use 5 about 4 cm long velcro-tape strips per each rail and they seem to hold quite well. The magnetic tape that Pinstadium uses/used (?) was not any good with my pinball machine as it kept falling off. So far I've been able to remove velcro-tape quite easily - but I guess it depends on the glue different manufacturers use.

I have a set that you insert between the mirror blade and the cabinet. Works great. It is an L -form with a U-form attached. inside the U form the led strik is. Between the L and the U there is enough space to fit the mirrorblade. The mirror blades are loose at the top, only fitted with screws at the bottom.
Does this make any sense?

Yeah ok, I think I get it... would love to see a close up pic if you have the time.

A large capacitor? How long is it off?

I did that in my garage/gameroom II. 2 rgb stripes, one facing up and one facing down. Lights up my Mustang way cool.

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Those look great! where do you get your channels?

OK, Here it is, The BEST WAY to Light your whole Game Room! One Bulb! See Everything!

I love it. Now I can multitask. Play my pins, grow my weed, and get a tan all at once

At my local store. But sure you can find some online.

Not sure how but the Stadium light people got hold of my primary email account and sent me a spam advertisement before Expo. Rather than bump their spam thread to complain, I figured I would post here. I of course unsubscribed, but that is not the point. I don't like spam email even from people I have made purchases from. I never have or will make a purchase from these people.

On a lighter note, I finally found a game in real life that has GI lighting that is truly as pitiful as the purposely deceptive and misleading "before" pictures on the stadium light people's website: Willy Wonky. That game is so dark, especially on the back half of the playfield, you can't see anything unless you are in a room lit as bright as day. Hopefully the WW owners are reading this thread and not the stadium spam emails.

He must have got a customer email list from another vendor. I hope not but how else would he have gotten it.

Dirty

Just built my 9th set of these. Here is my current lineup.

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For anyone having issues with magnetic tape coming off of the L bracket or it coming off of the side of the pin, I found 2 things that really help. I use a very thin bead of gorilla glue on the L bracket before applying the magnetic tape to the L bracket. I then use painters tape and wrap it around the L bracket at the ends and one in the middle. When the magnetic tape comes off of the L bracket, it is almost always at the end. I let the glue (and magnetic strip with adhesive) dry overnight with tape on them. Once I did that, they stopped coming off. As far as the cabinet goes, I wipe down the area where I am installing the lights with a paper towel with a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol on it. This gets the dirt off and assures a good bond for the cabinet strip of magnetic tape. I install the light with the two magnetic strips connected to make sure the polarity isn’t misaligned (you will only make this mistake once). Once I have installed the cabinet magnetic strip and squeeze it in a bit, I remove the L bracket portion of the lights (always fold down from the center to remove the lights, don’t pull them off by the ends). I let the magnetic strip sit for a good 24 hours without the L bracket attached. Since I started doing this, the lights are rock solid and the magnetic strips don’t peel off the cabinet or the LED L bracket.

For anyone wondering, I just installed homemade lights on my GB Pro about 2 hours ago and I have side art installed. The magnetic tape sticks very well to the side art. The picture below was taken with all the light off in the room.

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Looks good

Just in case anyone is considering it, I would highly recommend against using glue on the cabinet side magnetic strip. It would most likely rip off paint / wood / side art if you ever needed to take it off.

nice job

Very nice

It was mentioned earlier, but not sure if there has been any attempt. Has anyone tried to put the led strips directly on the glass? I'm thinking you could use electric tape first to give a better look from the top side, then place the led strips on that. I understand there would need to be a quick connect at the coin door so that the glass could still easily be removed, but wasn't sure if anyone had tried this yet.

Yes, I have. magnetic connectors, and special 90 degree mini strips....works amazing!

Do you have any images? Apologies if I missed a post.

Are you selling these?

I cant offer any LED products do to my contract.....

I bought some 5 volt RGB and Warm white strips, leds alternate between the rgb and the warm white. Going to power them off the GI into one of those simple controllers. Making up stand offs to mount the strips on the outside of the playfield for Iron Maiden.

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Now this is exactly what I'd love to see once you finalize everything!

New Iron Maiden - link to 5 volt controller - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J9QCQNN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00

It works great on the rolls of 5 volt I have here. Works on the range of voltages from 5-24. Works just as good on my 12 volt rolls.

understood, lot of these chinese controllers are hard to get correct specs on. Zoom in on the picture of the controller, lists 5-28v.

I have been using a power brick and the aux outlet in the pinball to run my 12v RGBW LED light (remote control version). I like being able to have them operate independent from the machine (cycle colors) even when the pins are off. It’s also piece of mind know the lights won’t put excess load on any of the boards. This only creates an issue if you want to add a second strip tied to flashers or some other event which would require a link to the boards or if you were using the outlet already to power something else. I understand everyone has different approaches but the aux outlet offers me a little piece of mind that I won’t be taxing the system. I bought a special connector for my TNA (cost about $1.25) that allowed me to plug the power brick into the aux outlet. Below is the aux outlet on TNA that I bought the adapter for.

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Just wanted to say thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread! Learning new skills and making games better through my own effort is a huge part of this hobby for me. I like to play, but i I like the maintenance and improvement side of things at least as much. Case in point, rather than buying pinstadiums for my WOZ, I read this thread and built them. Not only was it fun, but I wound up with a finished product that was specifically tailored to my taste: side lights on one control, rear lights on another and trough lighting on yet another control so that I could control the color and intensity for each independently. I also stopped the right side lights short of the munchkin huts to avoid overnighting their roofs and the spot on the emerald city in the right rear corner.

Thanks again!

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looks great

Bump

I wanted to say thank you to Fytr for starting this topic. The information he provided in his original post motivated me to build my first set of lights. I have been building my own lights (10 so far) and refining my process over the last year. I finally got around to putting together a video tutorial on the process and wanted to share it with everyone. Below is a short version for those that want to check out the build process and a full version for anyone who wants to build these lights.

Short Version:

Full Version:

Long Video:

Short Version:

Very nice. Thanks man

There has been tons of great discussion in this thread. Your post/vids are really great for putting a ton of information together in a great package. I think I may actually order up some parts and try to make a set now. Thanks a ton man!

This led kit incorpotes similar app control.

ebay.com link: 0

Has anyone included a separate flasher led strip?

Easy to do, I run 5 volt warm white tied into the GI, and a 12 volt setup for the other strip that could be tied into the flasher. If you have a Spike game, the flashers are 5 volt.

Thanks Fytr! I’ve learned a lot from this forum post and wanted to return the favor for all those that helped me. I’ll be sure to post updated videos as the lights continue to evolve.

I just finished uploading a tutorial regarding how to install the playfield lights form my first tutorial. I made short and long versions of this video. If you plan on building and installing these lights, be sure to check out the full versions of each.

Full Version:

Short HurryUp Version: