(Topic ID: 160433)

Big Hurt Hospital: saving GTB's Frank Thomas trib: PUT IT ON THE BOARD, SAVED!


By goingincirclez

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 61 posts
  • 19 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by goingincirclez
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 53 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20170502_001947 (resized).jpg
20170430_211522(0) (resized).jpg
20170430_211448 (resized).jpg
20170429_204028 (resized).jpg
20170429_204014 (resized).jpg
20170424_174307 (resized).jpg
20170424_174250 (resized).jpg
20170424_174159 (resized).jpg
20170424_174229 (resized).jpg
20160617_155850_(resized).jpg
20160617_155810_(resized).jpg
20160617_155820_(resized).jpg
20160609_003701_(resized).jpg
20160609_003654_(resized).jpg
20160609_003647_(resized).jpg
20160608_230055_(resized).jpg

There are 61 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 3 years ago

EDIT 5/2/2017: HE LIVES! Played the first game on the reassembled machine yesterday - see post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-frank-this-big-hurt-is-aptly-named-what-should-i-do/page/2#post-3744998

EDIT 5/26/2016: Well looks like I'm committed now, may as well turn this into a restoration thread... changed title to reflect this.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Poor Frank! This Big Hurt is aptly named; what should I do?

Rename it to Big MRSA and be done?

Picked up two games as a package yesterday. Way I see it, the one functioning and mostly clean game was a good deal so the second was essentially free. And looks salvageable... or is it?

20160521_175703_(resized).jpg

20160521_175710_(resized).jpg

20160521_175741_(resized).jpg

20160521_180306_(resized).jpg

Obviously this game was stored in a damp area as there's trace surface rust in lots of places. But the boards are spotless and it boots (to a battery error) and seems intact enough that I'd might try getting it going. I've fixed and restored worse...!

But the brown filth on the playfield concerns me... I'm pretty sure it's mold. Ain't nobody got time for an infection.

The good news is it does not appear to have eaten into the paint or the wood.... it's surface gunk, I was able to scrape it off as a test.

The bad news is it's pretty dense stuff... I had to scrape it off. So how should I remove it, really? I don't DARE try to air blast it since #1, I'm not sure I have that kind of pressure and #2, I don't want that crap going airborne to contaminate the surroundings. I'm not sure about liquid disinfectants and scrubbing assistants since I don't want to ruin the pf any further or feed latent spores by getting things wet...

...so whats the best way to remove the mold and salvage this?

(and BTW, WTF did Gottlieb make these pfs with? Ironwood? Holy heck is this playfield heavy!)

#2 3 years ago

Take your time and wear the proper attire and this game can be saved , even though it gets little love.

-7
#3 3 years ago

Set it on fire, and play your other games.
I love the "Help" - nice touch!

All seriousness, this is the very definition of a game to be parted out.

#4 3 years ago

Take lot's of pics as you strip both sides of the playfield.

Strip the game outdoors, not in the garage or basement.

Wear an actual respirator, not a "dust mask"

#5 3 years ago

Had some time this morning to do some basic cleaning and better evaluate what I might be in for. I have to say it seems pretty conflicting, so here goes:

The good news is, the cabinet is not as bad as I thought. In fact, the surface contaminants wiped off pretty easy with anti-bac wipes and what was crusty looking inside, was mostly just dirt. I spritzed a dusting of Lysol just to kill off any latency and it's now in a dry and dehumidifer-equipped environment. So the cab is solid and clean, as is the head (obviously needs more, but as I said this is just a start).

20160522_114558_(resized).jpg

20160522_125921_(resized).jpg

20160522_125947_(resized).jpg

Vid's advice is unassailable but I just loaned my rotisserie to a friend and I don't have good outdoor storage. But I didn't want this think nastifying my indoor area. So I had to carefully address the pf for risk/reward and reasonable mitigation meanwhile, ASAP. So I used respiratory protection and gloves, and careful, gentle, non-agressive motions to pre-clean the pf for better inspection.

The good news is, when I removed the apron, instead of the slaughterhouse horror show I was expecting, it was clean underneath.

The playfield has factory mylar so I decided to wipe that part down with antibac wipes just for a gentle inpection cleaning. While doing so I discovered that the brown crud in the flipper area wiped really easy with those.

20160522_125841_(resized).jpg20160522_132319_(resized).jpg20160522_132305_(resized).jpg

The underside of the pf should wipe as easily once all the mechs are out of the way... and I would do that in more accordance to vid's advice above. But I'm not sure I should go that far. Because with the mylar cleaned up, there are some concerning tell-tales:

20160522_132349_(resized).jpg

Issue #1 is some heavy planking visible on the right side. The mylar is protecting this but it's absolutely obvious that a mylar-removal restoration is NOT in this game's future. The pf below the mylar is not perfect as evidenced by the insert edging, but removing the mylar would destroy the art and pf surface. Which is fine. This can be a good player, but...

20160522_132500_(resized).jpg

20160522_132450_(resized).jpg

...Issue #2 is spotting between the mylar and pf that looks suspiciously like mild mildew. It's not air bubbling. It's smooth, and really only visible in contrast with the black, but... if it got between the mylar and wood, that can't be good. But even this isn't the worst part. That would be

20160522_132416_(resized).jpg

20160522_132413_(resized).jpg

Issue #3: discoloration of the art contrasting between the plastic inserts and the wood (look at the script "Shoot" words in the outfield). There is also a ring around a couple of the inserts. I can't imagine this could be from anything other than moisture / mold getting into the space between the insert and wood... or deeper into the wood itself (oh no).

This will never clean perfectly, but in all honesty I'm fine with a nice player's machine (it was free!) and as far as baseball goes: when you think about comfy leather mitts, threaded rawhide balls, wood bats, warm dirt and grass, and trusty uniforms, there's a textured aesthetic that goes with the game so the wood grain clear crazing and minor insert edging actually fits the theme to me. Worn and trusty like an old glove.

But that discoloration... ugh. Is it worth pursuing a strip-down cleaning or is this already too far gone to ever be "safe"?

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Issue #3: discoloration of the art contrasting between the plastic inserts and the wood (look at the script "Shoot" words in the outfield). There is also a ring around a couple of the inserts. I can't imagine this could be from anything other than moisture / mold getting into the space between the insert and wood... or deeper into the wood itself (oh no).

I'd guess that the wood has discolored the ink over the years.

I don't see how any mold spores could get under the Mylar.

#7 3 years ago

It looks like it's gonna make a nice player's machine. Please keep updating. I love reading threads like these.

#8 3 years ago

"Black mold" is a widly overrated health concern. I seriously doubt any strange "bacteria" would live there. I would use "simple green" and "non abrasive" pads. Dry the machine out.

#9 3 years ago

Well done. Looks much nicer now.

#10 3 years ago

Did some more investigative cleaning tonight. Removed the flipper, sling, and apron mechs to for a more thorough look topside. Then unscrewed all the stuff in the same area of the underside...

20160523_214353_(resized).jpg

^ Mold is fascinating stuff. I mean, it grew on the wood all around and on the staples fastening but NOT on that paper fuse ID card!

20160523_224948_(resized).jpg

So at first glance it seems like it cleaned reasonably well. BUT, consider the plys in the wood: growing on the edges exposed around mech, bulb, and insert holes. Cleaning this would suck. I don't THINK it's gone too deep to be concerned about but is there any way to be sure? Is a Lysol dusting after removing the visible enough, or would it come back?

Would like some ideas before I rip the rest of the stuff off, as there's more lurking toward the back of the pf too. But at this point I'd say 85% of it has been removed.

20160523_224958_(resized).jpg

Topside, things are a little better, but not without concerns:

20160523_221052_(resized).jpg

That crazing is heavy AND tactile, so the original clearcoat is cracking. Cleaning this is going to be tricky lest it turn disastrous! I have some thoughts there, but first I did a little experimenting with a light ME+alcohol rub and Novus 2, primarily between the left flipper and the center drain insert:

20160523_221117_(resized).jpg

20160523_222253_(resized).jpg

20160523_222245_(resized).jpg

It seems to clean reasonably enough given a light touch against its filthy condition. To my own taste, I don't mind a little lacquer crazing in the center area since it almost looks like ground surrounding home plate. And the red smoothed out nicely!

I'm not sure how well the colors will come back to match in the mylar / bare areas though. They probably never will...

But it might not matter?

And speaking of mylar, I'm kind of surprised the factory mylar left so much of the flipper area exposed. Given the crazing approaching planking in that area, I'm thinking my only option is to custom cut a lower mylar section to seal and protect the area once it's cleaned.

Provided this is still even worth bringing to that point?

What sayeth ye wiser salts re: the mold and other damage?

At least the pallet I salvaged had blocking that perfectly fits the rear cabinet rails... I almost look like I know what I'm doing now LOL

20160523_214442_(resized).jpg

-1
#11 3 years ago

Mold needs moisture to survive so as long as the game stays in a climate controlled enviroment, you shouldn't have to worry about it.

It would make someone a perfect first game to get them into the hobby. I say get it working, play it for awhile, and pass it along.

You could send it to me and I could see if Randy would let me color it. I'm sure there are a lot of people wanting to put a $400 colorDMD in a $1200 game.

#12 3 years ago

Wait, ColorDMD does GTB games? I thought they were only doing WMS and Sterns? Gotta admit, the thought of doing the coloring for a game has captivated me for quite some time, given all my experience doing raster graphics and custom bitmaps dot-by-dot back in the day. But most of the "in demand" WMS/Stern titles will be long done before I ever own any of them.

Back to Big Hurt, I think mechanically this game can be saved. And ff anyone's dumb enough to save a forlorn GTB Sys3 it would be me, on this title specifically since I'm born-raised South Sider (still have '05 memorabilia on my walls) and remember Frank Thomas' heyday well.

Not sure it's a keeper for me, but I'm sure I'll enjoy it for a while before passing it along. But my conscience won't let me pass a time-bomb to someone else, you know?

But man, the overall build quality on this impresses the hell out of me. It's a shame Gottlieb went under, they sure didn't seem to be cutting too many corners. You can see they knew what they were doing and maintained some pride in it.

#13 3 years ago

Big Hurt is worth saving. Very underrated game. I miss the one my dad had.

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Wait, ColorDMD does GTB games? I thought they were only doing WMS and Sterns? Gotta admit, the thought of doing the coloring for a game has captivated me for quite some time, given all my experience doing raster graphics and custom bitmaps dot-by-dot back in the day. But most of the "in demand" WMS/Stern titles will be long done before I ever own any of them.
Back to Big Hurt, I think mechanically this game can be saved. And ff anyone's dumb enough to save a forlorn GTB Sys3 it would be me, on this title specifically since I'm born-raised South Sider (still have '05 memorabilia on my walls) and remember Frank Thomas' heyday well.
Not sure it's a keeper for me, but I'm sure I'll enjoy it for a while before passing it along. But my conscience won't let me pass a time-bomb to someone else, you know?
But man, the overall build quality on this impresses the hell out of me. It's a shame Gottlieb went under, they sure didn't seem to be cutting too many corners. You can see they knew what they were doing and maintained some pride in it.

ColorDMDs don't support Gtbs yet but someday I'm sure they will.

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

Big Hurt is worth saving. Very underrated game.

Agreed; I played one at Louisville Expo this year. Can't say I had any expectations but I was surprised at how much fun it was. Cheesy 90's graphics, some pretty nice shots and the sounds were very engaging, they really had that stadium electric atmosphere down. The only thing that bugged me was all the "_(something something)_ Frank Thomas (something else)_!!!!!" messianics seemed a bit overdone and repetitive. Still, it was one of the smaller list of games I returned to a few times. I might have played it more if the machine I ended up buying hadn't been a few feet away.

I wasn't looking for one but here it is, so I'm hoping to patch it up and get it going. Not sure it's a keeper but it deserves to live and could make excellent trade-up material.

#16 2 years ago

Just a tip, if you hold both flipper buttons in before you launch the first ball of a game the callouts are greatly reduced.

#17 2 years ago

Did you get this with a cue ball wizard in Knoxville TN?

#18 2 years ago

Guilty The whole setup of that deal had me worried all along until load-up, but it worked out favorably and for a good bit less than the posting. The Cue Ball Wizard is MUCH nicer with a pristine playfield; some mechs / plastics need TLC but it played a demo game. I figure it alone was worth the price paid so Big Hurt is a labor of love right now.

#19 2 years ago

I was just a few hours from getting those machines myself. I was down in Chattanooga picking up a Slugfest which right now has me "swinging". That's quite a project right there. I hope the Cue Ball Wizard was better. Those dark photos on the ad made this a real crap shoot.

#20 2 years ago

Cue Ball Wizard was very nice! Just finished the preliminary fixup and played a few games today, everything works. Needs a standard shop and a few cosmetic replacements / improvements; the removed coin door is worst part but it was blanked cleanly and the playfield looks fantastic. I'll be ordering the parts to fully shop it soon. The timing on this was crazy, he was motivated to be rid of them and I'd negotiated a lower offer on the pair before driving... when I arrived and saw the sorry condition of Big Hurt I negotiated down further still. Cannot complain because the drive was wonderful and Cue Ball alone turns out well worth the price. I'll leave it set up easy for my kids until I decide to work a trade or upsell. If I get Big Hurt going that will be further icing on the cake.

#21 2 years ago

Tonight I removed the wiring harness and most of the rest of the underside mechs...

20160525_213117_(resized).jpg

20160525_215806_(resized).jpg

With everything out of the way, I could see a lot of growth and fuzz in the holes and slots, on the edges of the wood. So I took some Lysol concentrate and a 1/2" Harbor Freight bottle brush and scrubbed them...

20160525_215138_(resized).jpg

20160525_221458_(resized).jpg

After that I sprayed areo-can Lysol again then wiped everything dry. That strikes me as a reasonable effort, given the sorry as-yet-to-be evaluated topside state of the game.

But I think it he can live again...

RainbowSpag_(resized).jpg

...Provided I can untangle that rainbow spaghetti vomit nest and remember where everything went...

#22 2 years ago

Looks nice a nice players machine that just need some love. I think you are the person to do it finally. I love saving games like this. Keep up the good work

#23 2 years ago

Put that harness in the top rack of the dishwasher and give it a full Pots&Pans cycle.

#24 2 years ago

Arrgh! You're probably right. Thing is, the wiring actually looks really nice, and so to save time and avoid breaking stuff and/or making more work for myself, I left everything soldered to the harness including bulb sockets and coils.

OTOH I went this far so I may as well earn "harness washing" experience points. But I'm presuming I can't leave the coils and stuff attached. Or can I? If I desolder them, what's the best water-proof way to tag the wires?

What kind of detergent is safe?

#25 2 years ago

Good post to comment on the mold issues I hear all the time. Yeah, a lot of molds are nasty and potentially dangerous, but I am telling you that I grew up on a horse farm and breathed hay, mold, horse shit and everything else and 50 years later I am still healthy. Be careful but not paranoid.....

#26 2 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

. But I'm presuming I can't leave the coils and stuff attached.

Yes, you can leave the coils.

Just no speakers, relays or anything that won't dry out.

Quoted from goingincirclez:

What kind of detergent is safe?

Cascade is fine, or any of those pods the kids like to eat.

a60b12212e775dda40a983cbf7447a8399d9a8cc_(resized).jpg

#27 2 years ago

I considered buying this pair of machines from the original CL ad, but I was too lazy to make the trip. Knoxville if I am not mistaken? I really can not believe how long the ad sat out there and soaked. They had the pair up for $1300, the OP said he got them for much less. Good for you man!

This should be a good lesson to all. That even a great deal comes with a hell of a lot of work to bring a machine back from the dead.

It is very hard for me to sell a machine like this after I have put so much of my time in to a project like it.

#28 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

you can leave the coils.

This will sound stupid, but should I remove the paper wrappers first, or do those normally survive OK?

Quoted from wantdataeast:

They had the pair up for $1300, the OP said he got them for much less. Good for you man!

Good for you snagging that pair in Lawrenceburg two days later! I was 30 minutes too late. Would have gladly taken the "300" as my first EM!

But I'm surprised how much sleuthing attention this pin and listing has gotten... I've even had PM's about the BH specifically. So I got the pair for $800. I figured that wasn't too bad for a working Cue Ball Wizard... that leaves some overhead for shopping costs and I could still possibly come out ahead at sale or trade. Big Hurt was the gamble but for free I can't go wrong; I love this kind of tinkering with my time. I got it to boot before teardown and at worst it has good parts value, in fact I already used boards from BH to troubleshoot CBW so that alone made it worth the hassle.

#29 2 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

This will sound stupid, but should I remove the paper wrappers first, or do those normally survive OK?

The coils that have labels made of "masking tape" I leave.

The ones that seem to be regular paper, I remove.

#30 2 years ago

I love my bighurt!!!! Rescued recently and working on cleaning it up. Almost completly working now. The Mylar will get very minor bubbles like you describe. I don't think it's from moisture. See photos.

Couple of coils and ramp to replace and I'll be nearly done.

image_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).jpeg

#31 2 years ago

I was a fan of the Big Hurt as a kid and the pin seems to go for reasonable prices. I wouldn't mind having one, but it's not an OMG CL special of $2,000-sort of want for me.

#32 2 years ago

So with the kids out of school and at the in-laws' for the past week and on through the next you'd think I'd have plenty of time to work on this, but nope! Too much othery to attend to so not much to report.

Actually my 11yo daughter insists she wants to help with the shop and spiff job for Cue Ball Wizard (the other, playable game I got with this), so I spent some time investigating its needs and putting an order for Steve Young together. That oughta be here by the time she gets back. I'm looking forward to working on it with her, should be a lot of good teaching moments in there.

But I did manage to do some stuff for Big Hurt. I washed the harness in the dishwasher (see Vid's new guide) and that came out OK...

BH_wirewash_(resized).jpg

... but I'm not convinced putting it back on will be simple! The wires have some "memory" but they've also been twisted, looped, snagged, crossed, and who knows what else just moving around. Also I lost some labels, so I'll need to get the manual to double-check which coil, etc goes where.

In bigger news, last night I discovered that the pf is a good 6 inches longer than the last pin I restored (Firepower), so I had to modify my Rotezel (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-awesome-50-diy-rotisserie-or-rotezel) to fit. Thankfully, swapping the pipe nipples for the "close" (that's actually what they're called!) size worked fine.

So tonight I started taking apart the pf topside:

20160604_003200_(resized).jpg

20160604_002947_(resized).jpg

Ugh, this game must have been a nightmare to shop on route. Gottlieb sure didn't do anyone any favors - that scoreboard area is a major PITA to get apart, and there must be nearly a dozen bulbs in there. I'm only halfway through at the moment. Have a weekend hiking trip planned, so further work will have to wait until next week.

Still, progress is progress, and there's no crying in pinball...

#33 2 years ago

Yes that scoreboard area sucks to deal with. While you are in there I would replace all of the optos on the orbits and in the scoreboard so you only have to take it off once

#34 2 years ago

HAHAH!!! I hear you on the bulbs! I just shopped mine and mercy.....

#35 2 years ago

Tonight I finished the topside teardown. Enough to clean everything up anyway...

Full2_(resized).jpg

Full_(resized).jpg

This game actually had a really nice pf glass which I swapped into another game for now... and after finding yet more glass shards buried under the ramps and such, I have a working theory that maybe a dropped beer was responsible for sparking the mold growth in spots. That kind of moisture would have run down the the pf and of course dripped through all the places where the mold was most prevalent. Might even explain the specific kind of mold too... now I wish I was more knowledgeable about that sort of thing.

A few other telltales emerge too:

20160608_230120_(resized).jpg

20160608_230055_(resized).jpg

This game was obviously stored in an unfavorable location. Now the Firepower I restored looked like it came out of an industrial whorehouse, but even with that and being 15 years older it wasn't even half as yellowed! But I'm almost relieved to see the yellowing in the back of the pf. Relative to my earlier concerns about the basepath inserts being inconsistently discolored due to mold, it would instead seem that wood is simply a better thermal conductor than plastic. The wooden coatings have all yellowed with relative consistency.

Anyway, I'm very intrigued to see how well (or not) this might clean up.

It's also interesting to see all the color and art Gottlieb put in the back of the pf, especially near the rear orbits. You can't see ANY of it with the scoreboard in the way....

#36 2 years ago

WOW!! I'll be watching this for sure. Not a game that's on my want list, but definitely something that I wouldn't mind taking on

#37 2 years ago

Nice!!! Keep the photos coming, really enjoying this!

#38 2 years ago

Glad some folks are interested. I'll update when I get stuff done, but I'll probably not have too much time in the next few days. Actually, we are trying to close on a new house so this might get *really* sidetracked for an extended bit!

Meanwhile, I posted a want ad for a new playfield, on the long-shot chance there's a "better than this one" lurking out there somewhere, no better time to find out. I mean, this existing pf is really in pretty bad shape: Look at the way bulb heat alone burned the surrounding wood and cracked the clear!

20160609_003654_(resized).jpg

20160609_003701_(resized).jpg

20160609_003647_(resized).jpg

Now I'm a reasonably competent hobbyist and might even do respectable work beyond that, but I'm no miracle worker. There is no reasonably economic way for me to restore this thing to anything better than "clean player's condition". Which is fine by me for this situation. But while the whole thing is apart, if anyone has something better lying around, let me know....!

#39 2 years ago

Try some 95% alcohol on a Magic Eraser - but ONLY on the white fields that the ball never touches

#40 2 years ago

AND. Remember, the worst part with the "crazing" appears to be the white, which doesn't even show on this play field. The only person who will know is YOU.

Got the flashers going on mine tonight, had a bad resistor in the light box! Pretty stoked. Just have one light socket to replace and then get my shooter ramp buttoned back up. Getting super close to being done. It's a labor of love, do the best you can!

#41 2 years ago

You know, looking at the last photos I posted, I noticed that where posts, brackets, and such were attached to the pf, the clear did not crack at all. The clamping pressure of those objects deflected the fracture stress and kept the clear adhered to the wood. Interesting

Quoted from vid1900:

Try some 95% alcohol

I've looked for that before, but seems the strongest I can find is 91%. Does the extra percentage bump make enough difference? I know 70 to 91 was sure worth it, ha ha.

Quoted from chknlil:

It's a labor of love, do the best you can!

Heh, I've fixed so much random stuff that could only be charitably described as opuses of misplaced affection over the years, this is almost nothing. I only wish I'd plunged into this hobby 10 or more years ago. Better late than never I guess...?

#42 2 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

I've looked for that before, but seems the strongest I can find is 91%. Does the extra percentage bump make enough difference? I know 70 to 91 was sure worth it, ha ha.

You can get it at the hardware store, or even a beauty supply store.

The higher the alcohol, the less water it contains.

#43 2 years ago

Spent a couple hours cleaning the pf as best as reasonable for now, so here's where we're at:

I used a combination of ME+91% (still haven't found 95, even beauty and hardware stores don't have it) to scrub the whole pf. Then removed the residue and applied Novus 3 then Novus 2. I was not happy with the results... still a lot of grime in the mylar and it felt rough where nicked and scratched, etc.

So I used naptha to remove as much residue grime as possible. Then took some 1500 grit paper I had on hand and blocked it down, especially in the mylared area. Followed up with more naptha, then Novus3, then Novus2 again.

The results are MUCH better given what I started with!

20160617_155810_(resized).jpg

That being said, there are still some unrecoverable areas. The worst is the left half of the pop bumper area which crazed and yellowed horribly! But the good news is this area is almost invisible when the game is assembled, so it's not as bad as it seems.

20160617_155820_(resized).jpg

The red area near the flippers needs touch-up in spots, but it looks to be pretty easy.

20160617_155850_(resized).jpg

For all the stout construction in this game, I'm surprised so little had factory mylar. Would it have killed them to extend the sheet into the pop area, or lower into the flipper zone? Anyway I could do more to enhance the shine and such of what exists, but this is still early on and at any rate I'm not sure how best to proceed there.

Regardless, I plan to cut mylar to patch in those areas, but the metal ball guide wires concern me. The one that I removed is barbed at the ends, so the pf gets torn up when I pull them out. Ugh, friggin' Gottlieb. What's the best way to remove those?

#44 2 years ago

Good progress!!

#45 2 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

or all the stout construction in this game, I'm surprised so little had factory mylar. Would it have killed them to extend the sheet into the pop area, or lower into the flipper zone?

I think a lot of times mylar was put on by the distributor or operator, not Gottlieb. Somebody else may be able to correct me if I'm wrong.

#46 2 years ago

Gottlieb put the mylar down.

#47 2 years ago

yeah that is Gottlieb factory mylar. All system 3's look like that.

3 months later
#48 2 years ago

More updates!!!!

#49 2 years ago

Honestly after being tied up with my SF2 rat project for so long, this one doesn't look so bad. PF looks a little worse than mine after cleaning (mine has bad touch up down near the apron), but all in all easy peasy.

3 months later
#50 2 years ago

Update?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
4,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Harleysville, PA
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
$ 50.00
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 249.00
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Lake Zurich, IL
There are 61 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside