Check batteries on MPU board for signs of leakage/corrosion

Then read section titled "Before Turning the Game On" here:
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index1.html

Would you mind posting a picture of the boards with the game turned on?

There are two 39K 1 watt resistors on the power supply board for the +100volts and the -100 volts.

There are several test points on the power supply board.

Take a look at the +100 and -100 volt lines. Clip lead on ground test point then measure the -100 and +100 lines.

If one or both are low. Power down the game and measure the two 39K resistors.

The -100 line on mine read 50 volts and the resistor read 5 Meg.

When you install the new resistors(replace both) elevate the resistors. I use a piece of card board and then solder them in. Remove the cardboard. This will give some air flow around the resistors.

Check your other voltages since you are in there and go to Bigdaddy and order a 11B cap kit for the board.

After the display works. You can see the error codes the game is putting out.

I am starting to working on a pool sharks now.

RJ

That is assuming the MPU is booting up.

Thats a good sign. Probably going to need better photos for them to be any help

Do you have a multimeter or voltmeter and know how to use it?
Did you check the +100VDC and -100VDC as was suggested earlier? The status LEDS indicate that the MPU is probably running, but the displays may have a problem. Also, getting a different boot up response on subsequent power ups might indicate a logic voltage supply problem. Take measurements of the DC logic voltage and AC ripple.

Well, I can't really help you with the fear part. Testing with a meter is an important part of electronics troubleshooting. I would advise that you watch or read some basic electronics tutorials online to get comfortable with measuring DC and AC voltages. Nobody wants you to fry your game. We can help you with some of the specifics when you are more prepared.

Set your meter to DC the symbol with the a straight line and several dash lines under neath it.

Set the meter to the 200v range. Most meters go 2. 20 200 and so on use the scale higher than 100 volts.

You can test your setting by checking a battery you have laying around.

On the 200 scale it will not read but a 1volt, so turn the switch on the meter, down to 20 or 2 so you can get the feel of what you will see when looking at a battery. Flip the leads back and forth on the battery. Note the - symbol before the number when you put the Black lead on the positive post and the red lead on the negative post of the battery. You will not hurt the meter.

Put the game on a outlet strip so you can turn it on/off easier.
By the J3 connector below F1, there is a post labeled TP2 GND
This is were your black lead goes.

F2 is your +100v

F3 is your -100v

Turn the game on.

Using your Red test lead.
Check both sides of the fuses and report back the readings.

While still holding the black lead on TP2

The fuses are on the output side, going to the display.

Do you have a manual for the game?

If not ,I see one on eBay. Pick it up. I like paper in front of me when I can. I still write in pencil in the manuals.

Where are you located?

RJ

Find yourself some clip leads. They come in assorted color pack. Harbor freight them. This way you can clip on to the GND post with the black lead and only have to work with the Red lead.

RJ

Replace cable or just the plug end with a three terminal plug. The ground is for your safety, in the event something gets shorted in the game, metal parts such as the rails, coin door, etc. can become live.

Recycle a pinball machine . . . where is this world coming to ?

Can you still take a closer picture of the MPU board around the battery holder? Sure like to make sure there is not any corrosion. If there is you want to get that repaired before it does get worse. Upgrading to lithium batteries would be a real good choice. I hear of too many new alkaline batteries leaking before their expiration date.

I am glad you were right about that. His original description sounded like a boot up issue. Good catch.

Good to hear you found the problem

Now comes the fun part

New balls because the old ones have rust and crap on them that will eat away at your play field.
Clean the play field.

Rubber kit, bulbs
Leaf switch bendinging tool.
600 grit paper for contact cleaning. Start out using a piece of paper from your printer and pinch the contact together and pull the paper threw.

Learn to solder

Replace the batteries on the mpu board.

Pull all the fuses replace them or clean the ends for now.

Get a Game manual.

Change out the electrolitic caps.

Pinball life.com has a good generic rubber kit and a 100 pack of 47 bulbs. And I believe the tools.

And a lot of reading.

Good luck

RJ

Always good to see a game from being parted out or just thrown out.

Fun part is when you find out there are many mods you can do to customize your machine such as LEDs and this 8 ball shooter rod. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1057-super-skill-shot-shop/00595-8-ball-custom-pinball-shooter-rod