(Topic ID: 81569)

POLL: Your personal definition of "Collector Quality"


By CraZ4Pin

5 years ago



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  • 58 posts
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  • Latest reply 6 months ago by arcademojo
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    Topic poll

    “Where do you think a game needs to be in order to be considered "Collector Quality"??”

    • Game is 100% (A+) Flawless and ALL Original (no reproduction parts) 20 votes
      18%
    • Game is 95%+ (Solid A) Hardly a blemish on the cabinet or playfield (minimal repro parts such as a ramp) 53 votes
      47%
    • Game is 90%+ (A-) Hardly a blemish/wear at all but a couple major Reproduction parts (such as playfield) 30 votes
      27%
    • Game is 88%+ (B+) A few minor issues - couple minor cabinet dings, very slight playfield wear 4 votes
      4%
    • Game is 85%+ (B) A very nice example with just a few cabinet issues, minor playfield wear (possibly covered by Cliffy's), but has a few upgrades (LED's, mods, etc) that bring up the value/collectibili 1 vote
      1%
    • Game is 80%+ (B-) The game has a few noticeable issues but better than player's condition. Game has Cliffy's covering wear spots (or decals to cover wear areas) and also has several upgrades (LED's, 4 votes
      4%

    (112 votes)

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    There are 58 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 5 years ago

    Just for fun ... I thought I'd add a quick poll just to gauge where people fall on the definition of "Collector Quality" (CQ). Personally, I think any game that is a 90%+ (out of 100) is worthy of being CQ, but I know some folks feel it has to be a 10 and some folks feel it could be a little less. What do you think?

    #2 5 years ago

    It better be near perfect. I don't care if it has some repro parts.

    #3 5 years ago

    I wouldn't know, I buy only players.

    #4 5 years ago

    Most 'repro' parts I don't care about (such as ramps, plastics, etc.) but I DO care about the playfield for some reason, lol. Although repros typically look nice I really want an original playfield ... it just feels like the heart of the game for me.

    #5 5 years ago

    Yeah - hard to answer. I expect flawless but I don't mind repro parts that are also flawless.

    #6 5 years ago

    Collector Quality (adj.) - a pinball machine so nice, you're scared to play it and it collects dust.

    #7 5 years ago

    Better than new in box.

    #8 5 years ago

    Should be perfect and never played. So basically no machine is "Collector Quality" to me since a ball generally gets launched at least once in its lifetime.

    #9 5 years ago

    Collector quality = wanker

    #10 5 years ago
    Quoted from bballfan:

    Better than new in box.

    Say what?? lol. So a game just pulled out of the box is not "Collector quality"? The last couple definitions of CQ on here are the extremists. I think that's when I pull out the term "Museum Quality".

    #11 5 years ago

    "Collectors" generally want the most perfect of the perfect example there is of something. They keep it locked in a special UV protecting, dark, case of some type so it doesn't get light damaged or scuffed, and only bring it out sometimes so they can "show it off" gleefully. Hence my answer.
    I'm a console game collector in the true sense of the word, and yes I am snobby when it comes to the quality of my boxes, manuals, cartages, etc.. I have very nice examples of CIB games, but I don't consider any of them CQ because of tiny rips in the shrink wrap or slightly rounded box corners.

    #12 5 years ago

    CQ - Game is 95% mint I think. Close to CQ is 90% with maybe a minor ding and very minor wear at holes etc..,

    #13 5 years ago
    Quoted from Linolium:

    Should be perfect and never played. So basically no machine is "Collector Quality" to me since a ball generally gets launched at least once in its lifetime.

    what's the point of this definition?

    #14 5 years ago

    A collector's quality machine should be one that is at LEAST 90% original parts including the PF. Original parts may have come from another machine and made to Collector Quality, that's fine. But the PF should be the machines original PF. It should be in immaculate/pristine condition. BETTER than when it came off the factory floor.

    The term CQ is way over used IMO. I equate this rating based on the way we rate vehicles. I think it applies perfectly. Sure, these are worth millions of dollars, but they still have excellent value and most of all, family fun.

    For me, I would grade a machine in basically these categories:

    CQ.
    NIB.
    Mint.
    Excellent / Near Mint.
    Good.
    players condition.
    Needs work.
    POS. J/K. I wanted to make ya laugh!

    So, who agrees?

    #15 5 years ago
    Quoted from CraZ4Pin:

    Say what?? lol. So a game just pulled out of the box is not "Collector quality"? The last couple definitions of CQ on here are the extremists. I think that's when I pull out the term "Museum Quality".

    i've heard that games "new in box" often have defects and problems and require adjustments. i've also heard the problem was worse for old B/W games than it is for modern Sterns.

    #16 5 years ago

    i personally do not give a crap whether a part is reproduction or original (as long as the repro is not worse quality than the original). condition and quality are all i care about. i guess i'm not a real collector.

    #17 5 years ago
    Quoted from CraZ4Pin:

    Say what?? lol. So a game just pulled out of the box is not "Collector quality"? The last couple definitions of CQ on here are the extremists. I think that's when I pull out the term "Museum Quality".

    If you want to be technical, then YES. A CQ machine should be better than off the showroom floor.

    As I personally stated (not speaking for anyone else) I equate this to buying a classic car. The most pristine and expensive vehicles are the ones with matching numbers and BETTER than when it left the factory/showroom.

    Just because something comes fresh off the factory floor does NOT make it perfect. Maybe that's just anal me. But I definitely feel that some of the terms used to describe ones machine are over hyped.

    #18 5 years ago
    Quoted from pezpunk:

    i personally do not give a crap whether a part is reproduction or original (as long as the repro is not worse quality than the original). condition and quality are all i care about. i guess i'm not a real collector.

    For most parts I agree, but I have to have an original playfield (NOS or otherwise). Not a repro. It's like the body of an old car ... you can put in new parts when restoring it, but the body of the car better be original (even if restored.)

    #19 5 years ago

    CQ means 100%, don't care about repro parts. No flaws, no errors. Repro parts = AOK

    #20 5 years ago
    Quoted from rommy:

    CQ means 100%, don't care about repro parts. No flaws, no errors. Repro parts = AOK

    No game is 100% unless it has not been played. Those nice clear coats HEP and others do end up dimpling. Then you get ramp flaps wearing into the wood or clear. As soon as you pull it out of the box its no longer CQ and some games have flaws

    I think CQ implies minor flaws from normal play and very minimum wear

    #21 5 years ago

    i find the concept of a pinball machine that has never been played deeply depressing.

    #22 5 years ago

    If I own any like this, they won't be that way for long.

    #23 5 years ago

    I have a WOZECLE that's now a player after only a couple hundred games!

    I ride em hard and burn em fast!

    #24 5 years ago

    very broad term if you ask me. Some prefer 100% original and un-restored as it was made. Some want the item to be mint and perfect.

    I know with some items it is a big no no if you restore them as most collectors prefer the age patina look - obviously this does not apply to pins (although it might to some).

    I myself prefer games that look nice and play well, so repro parts are ok - but then I have them to play (and work on).

    #25 5 years ago

    There's no such thing as "collector quality". There's NIB pins and "well loved" pins and then a big range in between.

    CQ is a seller's moniker that's been slapped on all of the above pins just to say something is in great condition.

    Personally, a HEP restore to "CQ" to me has no meaning. I don't care about it, wouldn't pay the extra for it and am unimpressed by people who have them in their collections.

    I feel like there's two distinctions that have relevancy. It's either NIB or it isn't.

    #26 5 years ago
    Quoted from SealClubber:

    It better be near perfect. I don't care if it has some repro parts.

    Same. None of the poll options seem to fit?

    #27 5 years ago
    Quoted from Hawkeyepin:

    a HEP restore to "CQ"

    Chris @ HEP restoring a game will definitely be better than NIB.

    #28 5 years ago
    Quoted from PopBumperPete:

    Collector quality = wanker

    I wished we used the word 'wanker' here in the USA

    #29 5 years ago
    Quoted from CraZ4Pin:

    Your personal definition of "Collector Quality"?

    Collector quality = costs more money than I can afford.

    #30 5 years ago

    Well, I am a collector. If it is good enough for me to own, since I am a collector, it must be collector quality. No matter what the condition.

    #31 5 years ago
    Quoted from maddog14:

    Well, since I am a collector, if it is good enough for me to own it must be collector quality - no matter what the condition.

    Hey! No fair getting all logical like that.

    #32 5 years ago

    A machine with an almost perfect cab (maybe a small scratch or scuff thats hardly noticeable), has to have a perfect playfield....that sucker needs to shine, and have near perfect ramps and game specific parts (generic parts can be bad since they can easily be replaced). Has to have a clean inside cabinet and non-hacked boards...working displays and clear sound. Also needs to be very limited with mods....a couple tasteful mods is ok as long as they can be removed without any damage, but junking it up (like people do to TZ) is not collector quality

    #33 5 years ago
    Quoted from Pinfidel:

    Chris @ HEP restoring a game will definitely be better than NIB.

    It may play better than a NIB (pretty much a given for HEP, lol) but I don't personally consider it CQ if it doesn't have an original playfield. An artist may be able to create an exact replica of the Mona Lisa but it's still not the real deal.

    #34 5 years ago
    Quoted from Max_Badazz:

    but junking it up (like people do to TZ) is not collector quality

    Agree with that.

    #35 5 years ago
    Quoted from CraZ4Pin:

    It may play better than a NIB (pretty much a given for HEP, lol) but I don't personally consider it CQ if it doesn't have an original playfield. An artist may be able to create an exact replica of the Mona Lisa but it's still not the real deal.

    uh, you realize each playifeld isn't hand-painted by the artist, right?

    #36 5 years ago
    Quoted from pezpunk:

    uh, you realize each playifeld isn't hand-painted by the artist, right?

    Uh, yes ... but it is a limited print/edition from original artwork from the original manufacturer, right? It is not artwork that is reproduced by someone else.

    I would not consider a '67 Mustang an original if it had a body that was reproduced by some other company. Then it would just be a replica.

    #37 5 years ago

    collector quality is a very very high standard. If you even mention it in a FS thread, that game better be cherry, inside and out. If not, your going to take a lot of shit by everyone nitpicking to pieces, and they should if they use that term. It's not a term that is used lightly.

    Original vs repo parts. Not as big a deal. Depending on the quality of the repo parts. Some things are an upgrade (like aluminum gears in rudy) over original, but others are a downgrade (such as aftermarket translites) over original.

    #38 5 years ago
    Quoted from maddog14:

    Well, I am a collector. If it is good enough for me to own, since I am a collector, it must be collector quality. No matter what the condition.

    You have said what I wanted to say, but for some reason was unable to string the right words together in a lucid order. Thank you.

    #39 5 years ago

    I restored a KISS. Has an NOS perfect back glass, new perfect playfield, new complete cabinet. What would this be considered?

    Done 3-685.JPG Done 4.JPG Cabinet side by side.JPG
    #40 5 years ago
    Quoted from Freeplay40:

    I restored a KISS. Has an NOS perfect back glass, new perfect playfield, new complete cabinet. What would this be considered?

    Done 3-685.JPG 95 KB

    Done 4.JPG 64 KB

    Cabinet side by side.JPG 54 KB

    a piece junk cuz it's a kiss. Just kidding. Looks great. If the inside of that cabinet looks new, that is a restored CQ example. Wiring harness clean. Coils look nice. All around.

    #41 5 years ago
    Quoted from Freeplay40:

    I restored a KISS. Has an NOS perfect back glass, new perfect playfield, new complete cabinet. What would this be considered?

    Playfield is NOS? Plays 100%? From what I see ... looks CQ.

    #42 5 years ago
    Quoted from pezpunk:

    i find the concept of a pinball machine that has never been played deeply depressing.

    My thoughts EXACTLY

    #43 5 years ago

    CQ does not equal High End Restoration. It's close.

    But, a Hgh End Restoration is CQ.

    #44 5 years ago

    That KISS is CQ.

    #45 5 years ago
    Quoted from Freeplay40:

    I restored a KISS. Has an NOS perfect back glass, new perfect playfield, new complete cabinet. What would this be considered?

    clearly, sunlight is reaching the game right there in the photo, irreparably damaging the game art with UV radiation. part it out.

    #46 5 years ago

    Replacing the coils is probably the only thing I did not do, but would be easy enough to change them out. My experience is coils either work or they don't. GI buss braid upgraded to 1/8" flat braid. Every mechanism and every screw polished. Every light socket soldered. Did add a cord storage hole in the back like the newer machines and upgrade the bottom of the lower cabinet to 1/2" flush with the bottom of the cabinet. Will prevent future splintering and is much stronger.

    Lower playfield 2.jpg
    #47 5 years ago
    Quoted from CraZ4Pin:

    Playfield is NOS? Plays 100%? From what I see ... looks CQ.

    Yes playfield was NOS... Plays very nice.

    #48 5 years ago
    Quoted from Freeplay40:

    Replacing the coils is probably the only thing I did not do, but would be easy enough to change them out. My experience is coils either work or they don't. GI buss braid upgraded to 1/8" flat braid. Every mechanism and every screw polished. Every light socket soldered. Did add a cord storage hole in the back like the newer machines and upgrade the bottom of the lower cabinet to 1/2" flush with the bottom of the cabinet. Will prevent future splintering and is much stronger.
    Lower playfield 2.jpg 97 KB

    Grubby coils is a minus, and I see some tarnish around the pop-bumper brackets. Not CQ, but a very very nice high end example.

    #49 5 years ago

    that's one of the anal things you will see when you start going with CQ collectors. Those coil wrappers better look like new.

    #50 5 years ago
    Quoted from CraZ4Pin:

    Uh, yes ... but it is a limited print/edition from original artwork from the original manufacturer, right? It is not artwork that is reproduced by someone else.
    I would not consider a '67 Mustang an original if it had a body that was reproduced by some other company. Then it would just be a replica.

    ok, but your original analogy was to the Mona Lisa - a thing that was painted by hand one unique time, by the artist himself. Playfields were mass-produced by machinery. the car analogy is more apt.

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