(Topic ID: 213459)

Poll: is this board worth repairing?


By surfnrg

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by pinfixer
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    Topic poll

    “Should this be repaired or replaced?”

    • Repaired by buyer 5 votes
      17%
    • Replaced by buyer 18 votes
      62%
    • Repaired by seller 1 vote
      3%
    • Replaced by seller 5 votes
      17%

    (29 votes by 0 Pinsiders)

    Topic Gallery

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    #1 2 years ago

    Bought a game for top buck and it worked for about 20 minutes before some display issues. Next day it wouldnt boot up. I looked at the mpu board and this is what I saw.

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    #2 2 years ago

    If you're going to repair it yourself and have the time and experience, maybe. The damage has hit traces pretty far into the board.

    If you're going to send it out for repair, no.

    There are two replacement options available:

    http://www.allteksystems.com/products-mpu-replacements.html

    https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html

    #3 2 years ago

    Board guy probably wouldn't touch it. If you want to have a go on your own have a look at the following post.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-guide-to-repairing-alkaline-battery-damage

    #4 2 years ago

    I did one of these for experience.
    It worked for a while.
    I continued to chase it.
    Finally had enough and got alltek.
    Great experience with little down side except the sunken shoulders each time something new failed.

    #5 2 years ago

    Zep acidic toliet bowl cleaner works as well . As mentioned depends how far you want to go.

    #6 2 years ago

    If you looked over the game prior to buying it, it is yours to fix, not the seller. I've repaired worse acid damage, but it is time consuming.

    #7 2 years ago

    Not worth the trouble to fix. It can be done but I rather pick and choose my battles. That replacement board is cheap and reliable. Two of my favorites words.

    #8 2 years ago

    Yeah, just buy a replacement.

    #9 2 years ago

    If you have the time and want to lewrn something new, i would try to repair it myself. I would fully expect to buy a new board though as you will most likely be chasing problems with that board for years.

    #10 2 years ago

    It's definitely repairable but it depends on if you're interested in spending 10 hours working on it or not. If you're looking to learn dig in...

    #11 2 years ago

    As a guy that does his own board work when possible you have to draw a line sometimes and say new board. This is one i'd say bye bye to even if you do stop the acid by suggested methods the time and parts cost will mount. New board will be less trouble. Now i would pull some of the chips on the board that are not damaged for other boards down the road i may come across or other games that use them.
    A major concern I have is that it looks as if acid has spread to the header connectors if not cleaned properly you will ruin new board with acid on the connector from the old board then have to fix new board and replace header connector that's assuming that there not already trashed.

    #12 1 year ago

    How handy are you with a soldering iron? Do you have a vacuum desoldering station?

    If you answer beginner to novice, buy the Alltek if you plan to keep the game and the weebly board if you are going to move it. The Alltek is universal whereas the Weebly only runs single game EPROM code.

    If you answer average to expert and have a desoldering station, this is an easy challenge to undertake. Use the guides to neutralize the acid damage, install new sockets. Fix traces with "opens" between the front and back side. Polish up or replace the header pins J1 through J4.

    Personally I've resurrected over 150 acid damaged 1st generation Bally/Stern MPUs and I've had great success with minimal reoccurring issues. I would much prefer a acid damaged board than one a beginner or novice tried to repair and gave up. The acid damaged ones are pretty predictable to get running again. Go through the steps, work slowly and methodically, and it will come back to life. As a plus, your game is a "chime" game using the -17 version of the MPU. The copper traces are generally thicker on the -17 board and more forgiving to work with. The downside is that you have to hack the board a bit to run 2732 EPROMs, and if it has tan sockets (yours does not) then you're going to need to replace all of them to have a predictably reliable board again.

    Finally, when you replace sockets, please do yourself a favor and use machined pin sockets (like your U8 has) as they do not flake out over time the way cheaper sockets do. A few bucks on these sockets will save you tons of time later trying to diagnose a flaky socket issue. And of course don't mount a battery on the MPU again There are literally dozens of solutions so anything you choose over remounting the battery to the MPU board will be an improvement.

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