http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290034
For those of you that want to add an external sub. Seems like a good price. Just add the promo code listed on the product page.
Peace
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290034
For those of you that want to add an external sub. Seems like a good price. Just add the promo code listed on the product page.
Peace
Thanks!! Thats a sick deal. I bought two and not only did I save $40 bucks shipping is free as well.
Anyone have pics of where they ran the wires off the pinball cabinet subs?
Clips? Twisted on with electrical tape covering? Soldered?
What a deal! Can someome give me a summary of this upgrade? Do you bypass the internal sub or run both? I thought the main issue was that the sub did not have a crossover to pull the highs off of it? Thanks
Quoted from DCfoodfreak:Anyone have pics of where they ran the wires off the pinball cabinet subs?
Clips? Twisted on with electrical tape covering? Soldered?
There has been long discussion about this in the past, but the consensus seems to be that it is OK to run both the internal and external subs in parallel. Mine are soldered to the internal sub terminals, then just clipped into the back of the external sub.
Quoted from herg:There has been long discussion about this in the past, but the consensus seems to be that it is OK to run both the internal and external subs in parallel. Mine are soldered to the internal sub terminals, then just clipped into the back of the external sub.
Thanks for the tip! How did you run the wires out of the cabinet? I noticed on ACDC that there's a cover for the power plug where I would typically run the wires out of.
I ran my wires out the bottom cabinet 'vents' in back of cab.(RBION) Use good grade speaker wire. I soldered alligator clips to end of wire and attached to sub in cabinet. Some people have disconnected sub, some not. If you really want to get fancy you can install RCA jacks in back of cab. Tons of info. on RGP if you search it...it was the cats meow last year and all the kids were doing it! : )
On Williams / Bally games I run it through the back vents, on my Stern games I run the wires right along side the power cord.
I usually just use alligator clips and clip them right on to the existing cabinet woofers lugs. I thought I read somewhere where it is not recommended for use with a Pin2K machine though.
Chris
Quoted from ChadTower:What happens if both are in play?
"POOF"
I was actually wondering the same thing myself
Quoted from herg:Yeah, I use 1 sub with both my Tron and LOTR connected to it. One is connected to the L inputs, the other to the R. It works surprisingly well.
Herg... do you bi-pass the internal sub/base, or are those still connected as well?
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Herg... do you bi-pass the internal sub/base, or are those still connected as well?
Quoted from herg:There has been long discussion about this in the past, but the consensus seems to be that it is OK to run both the internal and external subs in parallel. Mine are soldered to the internal sub terminals, then just clipped into the back of the external sub.
Quoted from ChadTower:What happens if both are in play?
They both play fine. You're connecting them to separate input channels on the external sub, so it's no different than a normal stereo input to the sub.
Quoted from ChadTower:What happens if both are in play?
I don't know the technical side of it, but you can run both machines at the same time using that POLK PSW10, as long as you run one pin to the left inputs and the other pin to the right inputs.
It does not sound distorted or anything, it just separates the signals somehow or some way.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:This may be a silly question;
Do any of you use 1 external sub to run 2-3 pins, at the same time?
I have seen more than two machines hooked up to a sub but I don't think you can run them all at the same time, you have to hook it up to a switch of some type, but I do not recall exactly how Scott did it.
Quoted from Jetzxi:it just separates the signals somehow or some way.
nope, bass is mono anyway. It gets it all and plays it all. A speaker selector switch would probably be a smart move though.
I have one of these and it's frickin awesome. If you're on the fence just buy the damn thing. Totally worth it!
Quoted from ChadTower:Nice! I'm going to buy one and attach it to the baby monitor!
Wait... erm...
That should be mostly treble. If not, call a doctor... or exorcist.
You haven't seen the baby monitors some folks get now, I guess. We're talking full stereo with DVR and color LCD. And internet broadcasting. It's nuts.
Hot Damn this makes a huge difference !! Just hooked mine up and it rocks. Loosened the plastic cup where the power plug goes our and ran the speaker wire through there. Took the +(red) and - (black) from sub to one channel of sub woofer. Works great. Enjoy!
Quoted from DCfoodfreak:nope, bass is mono anyway. It gets it all and plays it all. A speaker selector switch would probably be a smart move though.
Cool, I just know it sounds awesome and is simple to do!
I will have to purchase one more to tie in to WOZ and Predator when either one of them arrives first.
Quoted from DCfoodfreak:Hot Damn this makes a huge difference !! Just hooked mine up and it rocks. Loosened the plastic cup where the power plug goes our and ran the speaker wire through there. Took the +(red) and - (black) from sub to one channel of sub woofer. Works great. Enjoy!
What did you do red (+) to center and black (-) to outer ring?
Huh? There is a positive and negative right on the pinball sub and then Match that to the powered external sub.
Quoted from DCfoodfreak:Huh? There is a positive and negative right on the pinball sub and then Match that to the powered external sub.
I couldn't find a pos/neg marking on my NGG sub and I couldn't find a wire diagram in the manual... Bu found this online:
I keep meaning to hook up my SS to mine to see how it sounds without changing out the backbox speakers. The external sub is way cheaper, especially when you use it for two machines, plus you don't have to worry about the glass rattling. I'm just not sure whether the stock backbox speakers will still make the machine sound weak. With my Stern machines, I can't justify the extra cost of a full upgrade kit. The external sub for $40 per machine is well worth it, though.
Quoted from ChadTower:I checked Amazon and it seems the usual price for this sub is $100 with free shipping. FYI.
Yup- it dropped to $89 for some reason last week when I ordered mine, but now its back to $99...
still not as good a deal as the newegg deal though- but close enough that i wont sweat the $10...
Quoted from lowepg:Yup- it dropped to $89 for some reason last week when I ordered mine, but now its back to $99...
still not as good a deal as the newegg deal though- but close enough that i wont sweat the $10...
It's heavy. Free shipping at $10 more might be better.
Quoted from ChadTower:It's heavy. Free shipping at $10 more might be better.
Shipping is free with either deal....at least it was when I looked at it...
Quoted from lowepg:Shipping is free with either deal....at least it was when I looked at it...
Ah, okay, then yeah $10 difference.
Quoted from lowepg:btw- Im totally not an audio-head..... any recommended settings for the sub (for those using it)?
You can probably start with it about where you see it in the pic you posted for volume and frequency (low pass). Around 100 Hz and mid-volume. Tweak from there. You usually want to have the sub kick in near the frequency where the other speakers can't adequately handle the base frequency response. You can probably adjust further based on the ratings for the sub speaker in the pin. I'm not sure what those frequency ratings are and they would vary by mfr and vintage and whether it has already been replaced with something better.
I'm sure others with a lot more experience/knowledge can kick in more details. I haven't hooked these up to a pin but I do use them with a home theater setup.
The phase can be important to avoid having the sub overlap with other speakers and result in essentially cancelling each other out. On a pin, I'm not sure what's best. On a home theater setup, my AV receiver takes care of that.
Quoted from DCfoodfreak:Huh? There is a positive and negative right on the pinball sub and then Match that to the powered external sub.
Ahhh I just seen the back of the sub, I thought the only audio inputs were the line in RCA jacks, didn't realize the lower set of clips were inputs as well hence why I asked about the center and outer ring. Ok thats great to know, I may order 3 more now.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:This may be a silly question;
Do any of you use 1 external sub to run 2-3 pins, at the same time?
Yes - I've got 5 (Stern and WMS) mixed into one sub with about $20 in parts. Works great! When they're being played it's just a wall of sound, but since it's just low bass it works just fine. I'm sure there's some theoretical limit on how many you could add.
Quoted from tbanthony:The phase can be important to avoid having the sub overlap with other speakers and result in essentially cancelling each other out. On a pin, I'm not sure what's best
Do it by feel. If the bass is weak flip the phase or move the sub. Bass waves cancel when in phase. flipping the phase or moving the sub 2ft can place the waves in seperate alignment and crank out the bass.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/polk-external-sub-7999-newegg and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.