Sana'a
Quoted from Redknight87:Galvanized is much cheaper than black iron.
Ummm, you might have typed that backwards.
Black pipe is cheaper than Galvanized.
(Topic ID: 188084)
Linked Games
Silverball Mania
Bally, 1980
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Quoted from Atari_Daze:In all it is pretty clean so will not need to get "the dishwasher treatment", just new connectors.
Throw it in the dishwasher anyway, if you are going through all this work, you might as well get all the conductive carbon out of the harness. You don't want those Bally "phantom pops" that people bitch about.
Even when you replace the female contacts in the connectors, save the nylon housings, as some of them are no longer available.
Here are 2 more SBM fixes for ya:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/making-new-ball-guides-from-scratch-vids-guide
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-stand-up-target-faces-vids-guide
1 month later
2 months later
Quoted from Atari_Daze:However, as I was heat curing the white, there were a couple of spots I noticed where the paint was blistering. It was not from my lack of moving the heat gun around as the Createx application guide states can occur. I'm at a loss how it could occur as the surface area was scuffed prior to paint (as done with all my other colors) the area was then wiped down with naptha which was allowed to evaporate / dry prior to paint... again, it was only a couple of small spots, one is about the size of a penny, the other two are about the diameter of a pencil eraser.
Sounds like it got way too hot.
Use a hair dryer until you get a feel for the amount of heat needed.
A heat gun should not be set higher than the MEDIUM setting.
Quoted from g94:If all the above is correct, then I would advise against heating,
You are directly advising against what the MANUFACTURER states is necessary for proper use of it's product
"Createx Airbrush Colors are NOT cured after drying, HEAT IS REQUIRED"
3 weeks later
2 weeks later
2 weeks later
Quoted from roar:You went with the bare metal posts for the inside of the of horseshoe... was that intentional? Those will make the horseshoe shot even easier to hit and cause that centre target to take even more of a beating.
There was a service bulletin & kit from Bally to fix that.
Yeah, back in the day SBM used to earn a TON of money.
But good players would just endlessly run the horseshoe and win free games.
So Bally distributors gave out free kits to fix the problem - made the game much more challenging.
Quoted from Colsond3:Metal on metal contact still isn't good for the ball
I just polish the nails up to a bright shine.
If you want to see metal on metal ball contact, take a look at that horseshoe:
Quoted from Colsond3:Yeah, those pop rivets protrude more than I thought. You think they would've figured a way to make them smoother.
That's what Howard Hughes supposedly used to say (at least he did in bad movies).
As long as the ball does not touch them, they are serving their purpose.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Might be hard to tell, but here are before / after pics of the GI braid. In the "before" it is obviously just a trace of where it had been. I wanted to make sure I mimicked it.
Right up at the top of the playfield, you will see where the GI of the wiring harness splits off into the playfield.
A few wires will all be soldered in a group.
Unsolder these wires from each other.
Now you have each GI circuit on it's own.
This will quickly find the group with the short in it.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:I'm going at lunch to p/u a 20a CB from FRY's to help the diagnosis,
Just get a breaker at Frys, and solder on a blown fuse, and make a resettable breaker.
It will save you $100000 in fuses:
1 week later
On classic Bally, I always replace the EPROM with a freeplay EPROM.
Less work than rigging a bunch of wires and switches, and by flipping one switch on the MPU, I go back to coin operation.
The credits never fall below zero, and it still of course registers if you win free games.
(So if the credit display says "5", and you win two free games, it then reads "7")
Quoted from chippe01:Also, I think your flippers need to be lower. The starting point is kind of high up.
There is probably a little dimple in the playfield that shows where the flippers are supposed to be when at rest. Right at the tip of the flippers.
If that dimple got lost in the clearcoat, use a small, straight piece of wood to align the top face of the flippers with the inlane guide wire.
1 week later
1 month later
Quoted from membername:Hi, for the two pins below the outane, where can I find replacements for those? A friend had an overlay put on and they are not there anymore.
Thanks,
Karen
They are just finishing nails with the head snipped off.
Get stainless, they won't rust.
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