Raleigh, NC
I would keep regular incandescent bulbs for the pop bumpers. They will last a very long time.
Go with #47.
Yves
(Topic ID: 188084)
Linked Games
Silverball Mania
Bally, 1980
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Quoted from Colsond3:Do the pops appear that washed out in person with the CW in there?
I'll take a longer gander tonight and advise.
I have a plethora of colors so may go through multiple variations. It's less about what I want and more what the next owner desires. 
I have wire nuts in hand and thus should be able to test fire the game tonight.
Sana'a
Quoted from vid1900:Don't forget to get your floppy lamp socket wires under control:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers#post-485893
DOH, I almost forgot that, thank you Vid!!
Well ship my pants, I couldn't wait to install lamps so I connected a.c. lines, plugged in, turned on and
POP
20a fuse blew.
Hmmmm, well I had all three transformer connections made, 
so this time to try and diagnose the short....
Replace 20a fuse, found 10a fuse blown too, replaced that one.
Keep in mind game worked prior to my meddling.
So attempt 2, only plugged in J2 and J1 - POP, 20a fuse blew.
Attempt 3, replaced 20a fuse, only connect J2 and J3, fuses remain intact.
Thus somewhere on my pf, I figure GI connections must be crossed somewhere.
One thing I noticed while measuring voltage, TP2 registered only 156vdc. Voltage "in front of" CR1 was 196vac.
I realize the two issues are unrelated, but still, 156vdc on TP2, seems rather low.
Voltage at the line filter measured 119vac, so at least that still works. 
Well it's off to try and track down the GI issue/s associated with J1, at least it's the "smallest" connector associatwd with the transformer. 
Note on J1:
Orange and white have continuity
Green and red have continuity
Quick, to the manual!
My cheap dmm doesn't have a continuity check so I use the diode test to find circuits that are crossed... I shall borrow our Fluke from work tomorrow for more accurate results.
I had an awesome cat when I was a younger chap, Darrell. Named after Dimebag from Pantera, which I'm sure you can appreciate being from Texas. He even had a little goatee.
He used to sprawl out over anything I was working on...thought it was hilarious.
Thought I found the issue twice, a staple on gi braid was making contact with my rotisserie. Nope, didnt solve the blowing 20a fuse issue. Then realized I had not even grounded the back box, connected ground braid, pop, 20a fuse still blows. I'm about to order a 20a circuit breaker and new diodes and go through all switches one by one.
Damn I wish I knew more about reading schematics. Should the gi bus show continuity with the gi return?
Grrr
Quoted from Colsond3:Did you check the trough kick out, or all solenoids firing at boot up?
I've not gotten that far, I want to track down what I believe to be the GI issue before moving further. I only have the three transformer connectors installed thus far.
Quoted from vid1900:The GI strings split off from the top of the playfield.
Might be hard to tell, but here are before / after pics of the GI braid. In the "before" it is obviously just a trace of where it had been. I wanted to make sure I mimicked it.
I'm going at lunch to p/u a 20a CB from FRY's to help the diagnosis, I had lost my motivation until I saw your and @Colson3 comments.
Thanks guys for giving me the encouragement to look at it again tonight.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:I've not gotten that far, I want to track down what I believe to be the GI issue before moving further. I only have the three transformer connectors installed thus far.
The 20A fuses are almost always the GI anyway...was just thinking you might be shorting or crossing somewhere else if you had other components hooked in at this point.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Thanks guys for giving me the encouragement to look at it again tonight.
No problem....you're too close to get discouraged now. Pins can be frustrating at times, especially when you're taking one this far. Just take a step back and take a break, as it seems you are. If you can't get it or run out of ideas, always good to start a separate tech thread. Plenty of helpful people on here...they just may not see your issues buried in a resto thread. I started one after reassembly due to a few issues that popped up, and ended up figuring them out on my own regardless. But people had started chiming in.
Quoted from Colsond3:If you can't get it or run out of ideas, always good to start a separate tech thread. Plenty of helpful people on here.
Oh I will certainly do that...
The 20a circuit shows to directly connect only to pin 8 on transformer plug j1, pin 1 on j2 and pin 11 on j3, all show gen Ill bus.
Hopefully fry's can fine the ONE 20a cb I ordered so I can quit popping fuses during this troubleshooting.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Might be hard to tell, but here are before / after pics of the GI braid. In the "before" it is obviously just a trace of where it had been. I wanted to make sure I mimicked it.
Right up at the top of the playfield, you will see where the GI of the wiring harness splits off into the playfield.
A few wires will all be soldered in a group.
Unsolder these wires from each other.
Now you have each GI circuit on it's own.
This will quickly find the group with the short in it.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:I'm going at lunch to p/u a 20a CB from FRY's to help the diagnosis,
Just get a breaker at Frys, and solder on a blown fuse, and make a resettable breaker.
It will save you $100000 in fuses:
It's alive!!! 
Made up my 20a circuit breaker, threw it in, fired up the game and pop. Damn, didn't magically fix itself. 
So I clipped the red and white gi bus and return, checked then for short and no short.
So I went to my before pics, scrolled through about a dozen and then I saw it, I had the leads switched, what a dumbass.
I corrected those leads, fired the game back up and no trip of 20a breaker and that string measured 7.0vac, I did it, found THAT goof 
So I next began to plug in all the other connectors. Took a deep breath and turned it back on, 1, 2, 3...7 blinks! No Boom, then the opening tune and kick out solenoid. What a wonderful sound. 
HFS it's working! The ole heart didn't even beat during those 7 blinks. So I'm done for the night, I'll drop the pf in tomorrow and start playing the shit outta this thing. Hmmm, maybe tomorrow I'll call in sick. 
Check back soon for further news and videos!
And thanks to all you pinsiders who contributed in this thread with hints, tips and tricks and all the support. I'll list you all in another post soon, but you know who you are.
time
Quoted from chippe01:Congratulations on finding the problem. Well, we're waiting ...
The cat is waiting too.... 
Is there a Rosetta stone in the manual that explains the switch numbers?
My switch test shows #22 Is closed, I've checked the switches i, think are 22, replaced their diodes and still the error persists.
Words of wisdom?
Quoted from Atari_Daze:leg brackets have been upgraded
Smart move.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Think I found it.
Switch 22 = column 2, position 2?
The switches are numbered (col - 1) * 8 + row . e.g. col 2, row 2 is switch 10. Switch 22 is? The largest multi of 8 that first is 2 * 8, 16... so col is 2+1=3. 22 - 16 = 6 so row is 6.
I wish they'd left the switch numbers, rows and columns zero based. That's likely how it's represented internally and it makes the translation from a switch number to a row and column position simpler. eg. Switch 22 in a zero based system would be 21. 21 in octal is O25. Column 2, row 5.
Got the closed switch issue resolved.
Then had one flipper with poorly adjusted EOS so it wasn't firing, got that fixed. Figured out my lighting issue isnt bad SCRs but poor header plug repinning, I'll have to investigate my tooling and perhaps invest in better crimper. Putting that on the back burner, i put the pf into the cab to try and play a game, but have discovered I've got a row of switches not working. I'll troubleshoot that tomorrow, hopefully just a diode problem. Getting closer to playing a full game!
Looking good George. So nice to see the playfield back in the cab and illuminated. Minor issues to deal with considering that you had had every single piece off of the game and reassembled.
Is that a different or LED display in the bottom right, the fourth player?
You're...almost...there....
Quoted from bflagg:Always pays to have before pics.
Yes, yes it does, in my case for this game, I have 954 before pics, thus finding the right one can take some time!
Quoted from MustangPaul:Smart move.
Did that just for you Paul, I keep seeing you mention these in other threads so I figured I should make the small investment.
Quoted from g94:How are the plastics?
Originals are in poor shape so I have a set of reproductions from CPR, I think, they came from Marco.
Quoted from Colsond3:considering that you had had every single piece off of the game and reassembled
That is a good point, when I look back and those before and during photos, and thoughts of "will I ever get it back together" I'm amazed that I did all that!
Quoted from Colsond3:Is that a different or LED display in the bottom right, the fourth player?
Good eye as always Colson, yes that is one of the five I purchased from PINBALLSOLUTIONS.EU, Only installed one during this trouble shooting phase to see how I like it. All the original displays do work, just one of the "upgrade" options for the next owner once I get it done and put up for sale.
Quoted from Colsond3:You know I'm not a purist, so in my opinion the pinball solutions one look awesome.
I agree, the color on that replacement fits the lighting on the playfield nicely. You do see the unlit segments in that picture...maybe with the glass on it is not as noticeable? Beautiful restoration.
Even though I'll likely be busy tracking down my switch issue (based on my previous comments, hopefully it's just a loos pin, it's pin 1 on MPU J2 ) I'll throw in the BG tonight for you two (colson and swillie) 
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Even though I'll likely be busy tracking down my switch issue (based on my previous comments, hopefully it's just a loos pin, it's pin 1 on MPU J2 ) I'll throw in the BG tonight for you two (colson and swillie)
Nice!!! I think the backglass in will show how nice the Pinball Solutions displays will look in there. Just seems they will be perfect with the cool white you have in the playfield, the colors in the BG and the fresh paint on the cab.
Well son of a diddly,
It was pin 1 on J2, I love it when it's an easy fix.
Now though, more closed switch errors. If I find the guy who repinned this...
Hopefully I can find and fix those quick and play a few games... weatherman says bad weather tomorrow, all local school districts have canceled class, maybe the boss man will follow suit.
Stay tuned for posting of the BG and maybe a f
Game video...
Thanks Colson, I'm really digging it! The displays are so easy to swap out, I'll shoot another image or three with all white LEDs. There are two diff LEDs for the BG art, in the bottom version, only MANIA has the soft white, im still playing around with lighting.
Well I'm working on switches, then I'll be playing the game, THEN I'll be playing around with the BG lighting
I feel a late night coming on.
Hamilton, ON
No problem roar, I'll gladly send you some should you need them. I may even be able to get them a little more organized beyond just the "before" of playfiled upper / under as I have them now.
Here is the machine prior to a game with all 5 LED displays. Had a couple small assembly issues to correct on them, one IC was backwards and the other I had missed one solder point so had a couple segments out.
Game play is about 85% now, still a few lamps not working yet, most likely plug issues as mentioned previously and some switch fine tuning still but each day of tinkering yields issues resolved.
So after getting to leave work early, I finally got motivated to do some real work
Had to adjust pop bumper switches (a little fine adjustments still needed) had to adjust kick out switch.
Still have yet to zip tie the pop and dead pop lamp holders.
In beginning to diagnose my lighting issues I realized I have yet to repin those connectors. Header pins have been reflowed on original boards but the 2.54mm plugs I had sourced from digikey (amphenol) are for shit.
Gotta correct that.
Anywho, here are a couple of pics with the plastics and pop bump lids.
I still can't bring myself to remove the clear protective film from all the plastics. Might leave that for fun of the owner, not sure yet.
Yet to begin rework of apron beyond a new base coat, had to get this thing playable first!
Videos soon 
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Anyone know if this bb lock will work for SBM? The one I had is missing all the cams, thus it will not lock. Not sure that is important but I would like the game to be "complete" when it is finally ready to sell.
You should use a double bitted lock for the backbox. You might need an extended length one also. I think PBL sells them. If not, check with PBR.
Game looks killer with the LED displays! Love it. Great work. Can't wait to see a vid of this thing in action.
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