(Topic ID: 188084)

Polishing up a Silverball Mania (DONE 2/22/18)


By Atari_Daze

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 399 posts
  • 42 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Joydivision
  • Topic is favorited by 36 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“If no replacement playfield can be found, should I replace all inserts with Starburst type?”

  • Yes 4 votes
    21%
  • No 15 votes
    79%

(19 votes by 0 Pinsiders)

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There have been 372 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

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There are 399 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 8.
#201 1 year ago

If you clear is thick I would say not especially if it stays in a home environment.

#202 1 year ago

I'd Mylar around pops, kickers are easy to keep waxed, no so much the pops.

#203 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I'd Mylar around pops, kickers are easy to keep waxed, no so much the pops.

I usually agree with Vid, but on this one....I'd say maybe. If you're worried about wear, I would say just around the pops.

But what's the point of clear coat if you don't enjoy it? Play that thing as nature meant it to be played...sans mylar. I'm loving the feel of a cleared PF over here. As Buzz said, if your clear coat is thick enough, you won't have much to worry about.

I have three coats of clear on this, and honestly, probably over 130 games since reassembly. There isn't a single mark or dimple up around the pops.

Maybe I should get in touch with Stern and teach them a lesson.

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#204 1 year ago

Nothing really exciting to update, coin door trim on but not fully affixed (had to add carriage bolts to my Marco's order), speaker installed, a/c line mounted, ground braid started, tilt assembly mounted. I stopped short of full ground braid, I also ordered new corner leg brackets to replace the originals, thus I did not want to fully commit to ground braid locations. Got a couple more lamps wired after finally finding before pictures of how they were connected.
All the folks that mention pictures, pictures and more pictures, I agree. It helps also to ORGANIZE the pictures while the assembled pf is fresh in the memory! A little time up front makes re-assembly go much quicker and smoother. What is taking me some time is sorting though the hundreds of images I took during the dismantling, but I'm getting there.
Still debating on mylar applications, might leave that as a decision for the next owner, whomever that might be.
Thanks for looking and check back soon for more updates.

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#205 1 year ago

Looking good~! Almost there.

#206 1 year ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

All the folks that mention pictures, pictures and more pictures, I agree. It helps also to ORGANIZE the pictures while the assembled pf is fresh in the memory! A little time up front makes re-assembly go much quicker and smoother. What is taking me some time is sorting though the hundreds of images I took during the dismantling, but I'm getting there.

It seems tedious, but definitely the more pictures the better. Especially during restos, my OCD really shines through.

I actually first take a photo of the part on the game, then remove it and the associated hardware, lay it out so you can see each component and take a photo with the labeled bag. Then bag it up. Makes it easier when you replace most of the hardware also, or you powder coat a ton of stuff like I do. You're not just weeding through a big bag of screws and nuts and trying to match them up. These from Staples work pretty good, and only about $8 for a bag of 100.

For parts that need larger baggies, I actually make notes on there about reassembly for future reference.

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#207 1 year ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

tilt assembly mounted

Any reason why you didn't paint the tilt assembly mounting board white also? And I simply took steel wool to my tilt assembly, even over the original factory sticker and it came out awesome. You could give it a whack with it mounted in there, unless it is truly tarnished. You may have seen it in the thread, but here's the difference it made with mine.

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#208 1 year ago

Colson, you and I think a lot alike! I re-use the thick digi-key baggies for small stuff!
My parts are very organized but my image organization skills need improvement.

Quoted from Colsond3:

You may have seen it in the thread

Of course I saw it.
The metal on mine will get cleaned up but since this machine is (was) supposed to be a "quick flip", and is not a highly collectible machine like someone's Vamp, , not every thing is getting lots of attention.
My primary goal was to improve to overall aesthetics and bullet proof the performance.
If I had other machines in my stable I could play, this SBM would have received much more attention.

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#209 1 year ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

My parts are very organized but my image organization skills need improvement.

Yes, for organization I try to go backwards through the photos in order for reassembly. The first game I put back together, and it was a simple CE3K, took me about three days back in the day. I was able to get the Vamp back together for the most part in less than one day.

You'll find something that works for you, it took me until about my third game to figure out a good system. Especially when at the end you're holding a bag of extra parts like you just assembled some furniture from IKEA.

And thanks for the compliments still. The rarer the game, the more far you to tend to go. There are a ton of SBM's out there, but yours will definitely be the nicest that I've seen.

#210 1 year ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

There isn't a single mark or dimple up around the pops.

Is that a small dent in the first image, just right of the skull next to the reflection of the lights?
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#211 1 year ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

Is that a small dent in the first image, just right of the skull next to the reflection of the lights?

Just went and checked. It looks like a tiny one. But when I ran my finger over it, the clear coat is flat. Which means it was there before the resto, and clear coat went on the playfield.

Unfortunately, this playfield did have some minor planking and some very minimal imperfections before Devin touched it up and cleared it. Most of them were either repaired or leveled out by the clear.

Good eye and A+ on the try though

#212 1 year ago

Phew, wipes sweat from brow...
Now back to MY SBM.

#213 1 year ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Phew, wipes sweat from brow...
Now back to MY SBM.

Definitely. I've always wanted to grab a set of these custom coin door inserts, and you should definitely take a quick look around. I think CPR was including them in the repro plastic set.

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#214 1 year ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

you should definitely take a quick look around. I think CPR was including them in the repro plastic set.

Well thanks for that Colson, lookie what I found. Purchased the repro plastics over 6 months ago and didn't even open the package!

Now I'm back to work, repolulating the top of the pf.

Pics soon.

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#215 1 year ago

Most of the top of the pf has been installed, that's all I got for today folks.

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#216 1 year ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Well thanks for that Colson, lookie what I found. Purchased the repro plastics over 6 months ago and didn't even open the package!

Awesome...my buddy has them in his, and it looks great. Just a nice little touch.

Coming along man...now you can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Playfield is looking great...like a brand new game.

#217 1 year ago

You went with the bare metal posts for the inside of the of horseshoe... was that intentional? Those will make the horseshoe shot even easier to hit and cause that centre target to take even more of a beating.

#218 1 year ago
Quoted from roar:

You went with the bare metal posts for the inside of the of horseshoe... was that intentional? Those will make the horseshoe shot even easier to hit and cause that centre target to take even more of a beating.

There was a service bulletin & kit from Bally to fix that.

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#219 1 year ago
Quoted from roar:

You went with the bare metal posts for the inside of the of horseshoe... was that intentional?

Only as I had not been made aware of service bulliten that Vid so kindly provided, thanks guys, I will make the suggested changes!

#220 1 year ago

Yeah, back in the day SBM used to earn a TON of money.

But good players would just endlessly run the horseshoe and win free games.

So Bally distributors gave out free kits to fix the problem - made the game much more challenging.

#221 1 year ago

Thanks to roar and vid, replaced the metal mini post with plastic posts.
Kick out mech mounted, wired.
Placed Titan Pinball rubbers on associated posts.
Doesn't look like much progress but ever so closer to launching the first ball after restore.
Aiming for Sunday but need my Marco's delivery tomorrow to make that happen.
Only time will tell.
Thanks for stopping by.

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#222 1 year ago

Vid may have been the sole reason that bulletin was issued...well, maybe all of us larger post guys.

Playfield's looking closer and closer...even I'm getting excited. It's so nice when everything is new and shiny.

#223 1 year ago

Don't forget the 2 pins, 1 on either side below the outlanes

#224 1 year ago
Quoted from chippe01:

Don't forget the 2 pins, 1 on either side below the outlanes

Good call! The previous owner had actually wrapped some tape around mine so you’d get more balls to roll into the kick back. I thought it was actually a rubber until I took the playfield out.

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#225 1 year ago
Quoted from roar:

Good call! The previous owner had actually wrapped some tape around mine so you’d get more balls to roll into the kick back. I thought it was actually a rubber until I took the playfield out.

That's just a nail hammered into the playfield, as you said, to make more balls bounce to the return lane. But that shouldn't be there.

In my experience, the pins are customarily at the very bottom corners where the metal at the bottom of the apron / ball guide to trough meets the side wall. There is a little nook that the ball gets stuck in when it goes in the outlane occasionally, a small design flaw, particularly on Bally EM and SS games. Operators put nails there to prevent the ball from getting stuck and people shaking the machines unnecessarily, and to assist the ball getting back to the trough more smoothly.

My Vamp had them also, but I didn't put them back in. The ball rarely gets stuck, and you can just give it a very slight nudge to get it back to the trough if it does. Metal on metal damages the ball, and I didn't want nails back in my clearcoated playfield.

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#226 1 year ago
Quoted from chippe01:

Don't forget the 2 pins, 1 on either side below the outlanes

Yes I have those pins, just haven't gotten around to installing them, I haven't decided if I want them there or not...

As always, appreciate the input.
Oh, Text message just in( literally as I'm typing) from USPS says my Marco package is out for delivery today... man I'm starting to get excited.

#227 1 year ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Oh, Text message just in( literally as I'm typing) from USPS says my Marco package is out for delivery today... man I'm starting to get excited.

Awesome!!! I know you're itching to get this thing back together.

I see roar switched his posts to blue. And you know I'm not a purist...how you feeling about blue translucent flips on your SBM? I put them on my Xenon, and think they look great.

I might have an extra set I could mail to you for free if you wanted to try them out.

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#228 1 year ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Awesome!!! I know you're itching to get this thing back together.
I see roar switched his posts to blue. And you know I'm not a purist...how you feeling about blue translucent flips on your SBM? I put them on my Xenon, and think they look great.
I might have an extra set I could mail to you for free if you wanted to try them out.

I should have given credit for that pic... I swiped it from CPR’s website. I haven’t done my swap yet, just following along here in envy I can’t decide whether to go blue or stay with red.

#229 1 year ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

That's just a nail hammered into the playfield, as you said, to make more balls bounce to the return lane. But that shouldn't be there.

All the Silverball Manias I played as a youngster had those two outlane pins there for the chance bounce to the return lanes. If you look closely on the IPDB playfield pics you can also see them

#230 1 year ago

Yes, those 2 pins are supposed to be there

#231 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

those 2 pins are supposed to be there

"He" has spoken, so it is written, so it shall be done.

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#232 1 year ago

Look what just arrived.
Now there are no more excuses, I gotta finish this up soon.

Now back to the Amigos build.

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#233 1 year ago

Really nice to see this coming back together. It looks amazing.

#234 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

All the Silverball Manias I played as a youngster had those two outlane pins there for the chance bounce to the return lanes. If you look closely on the IPDB playfield pics you can also see them

Quoted from vid1900:

Yes, those 2 pins are supposed to be there

Metal on metal contact still isn't good for the ball, but I stand corrected. Thanks for the enlightenment.

#235 1 year ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Metal on metal contact still isn't good for the ball

I just polish the nails up to a bright shine.

If you want to see metal on metal ball contact, take a look at that horseshoe:

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#236 1 year ago

Yeah, those pop rivets protrude more than I thought. You think they would've figured a way to make them smoother. I'm liking those light blue Titan rubbers though.

#237 1 year ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Yeah, those pop rivets protrude more than I thought. You think they would've figured a way to make them smoother.

That's what Howard Hughes supposedly used to say (at least he did in bad movies).

As long as the ball does not touch them, they are serving their purpose.

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#238 1 year ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Metal on metal contact still isn't good for the ball, but I stand corrected. Thanks for the enlightenment.

Metal on metal contact is bad for the ball? You mean like the pop bumpers? I wouldn’t sweat it; lots of metal contact on a game.

#239 1 year ago

Not the mechs or guides, I was referring to oxidized or rusty nails sticking out of the playfield, whether they serve a purpose, are supposed to be there or not. If they are highly polished like Vid suggested, not a problem.

Didn't mean to get singled out for comments, just an observation from my experience. I would assume we all change the balls in our games regularly, so it shouldn't be a problem regardless.

I'm really itching to see this thing back together and some gameplay. Keep up the good work George.

#240 1 year ago

I've been slow these past two days.
Just not very motivated, although I'm eager to shoot that first ball!
I was distracted yesterday with the Breaking Bad marathon, plus was waiting for my Marco's package.
So I've now replaced every single switch from under the pf, leg brackets have been upgraded, back box grill installed, now running ground braid and doing little things, getting things ready for the wiring harness.
Thanks for watching guys and stay tuned.

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#241 1 year ago

It's so nice looking at a tidy white cabinet interior. Can't wait to see this thing booted up.

#242 1 year ago

Currently wiring the bb door...

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#243 1 year ago

Bb door, wired!
Next up, circuit boards.
Tune in tomorrow for that update.

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#244 1 year ago

Good progress. One step closer to the finish line!

#245 1 year ago

Cab wired
Boards installed
Pf switches gapped
Pop bump lamp tests - left are yellow LEDs, right are white LEDs, yellow seems to mimic incandescent, thoughts?

If I can recall to pick up wire nuts, and can get all lamps and coin door installed, game will be test fired tomorrow!

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#246 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

There was a service bulletin & kit from Bally to fix that.

This same service bulletin is also in the Space Invaders documentation.

-Steve

#247 1 year ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Cab wired
Boards installed
Pf switches gapped
Pop bump lamp tests - left are yellow LEDs, right are white LEDs, yellow seems to mimic incandescent, thoughts?
If I can recall to pick up wire nuts, and can get all lamps and coin door installed, game will be test fired tomorrow!

If it was me, if you're doing incandescent GI I'd go with the yellow LEDs in the bumpers. LED GI, I'd use the white LEDs in the bumpers.

-Steve

P.S. Following this thread inspires me to get to work on MY SBM. Lot's of great info and ideas here. Thanks!

#248 1 year ago

I Put yellow LED's in my bumpers, the white looks too washed out.

#249 1 year ago

Another vote for yellow

#250 1 year ago

I'm at an impass. I really like the cool white in the passive bumps, but the yellow in the pops. I agree the CW washes out the art on the pops a little. Pics are always different than in person though.

Another thing I noticed though. The CW really radiates and lights up the playfield much better. The side of the playfield with the yellow looks really dark.

Do the pops appear that washed out in person with the CW in there?

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