Polishing up a Silverball Mania


By Atari_Daze

7 months ago


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There are 162 posts in topic. You are on page 2 of 4.
#51 5 months ago

So only a small update, removed all the old inserts and prepared holes for new inserts. I have ordered the primer per Vid's guide but poor planning will have it arrive AFTER this long holiday thus I will get all the new inserts sanded and prepped for install to be ready once the primer arrives. I want to do all the work the right way! So this weekend, other than insert prep, I think I will finish removing all the ground braid and parts from the cab and begin to prep it for paint. Still working on lining up a compressor so again, poor planning for what could have been a very productive weekend, oh well. I'll also remove all the old GI wiring from the lamp sockets and test all of those to see if any are bad, I've got all new sockets planned for this machine so the old ones will just go into my "stock" of parts.
All in all I'll get some things accomplished this weekend that need to get done anyway.

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1 week later
#52 5 months ago

Ok so let me see if I can recall everything I've accomplished over the past week...
Wiring harnesses have been washed and connectors replaced.
All solenoid mech's have been polished and rebuilt.
New PCBs have been 99% populated, slight miscount for the MPU has two sockets missing but on order. (Again, not required for this machine as the originals do work 100% but should the eventual new owner want rock solid boards, these will be offered as an upgrade).
Playfield cleaned with alcohol, magic erasers and lightly sanded and repopulated with new inserts. It is pending its first shot of clear to seal everything and be the base for all the paint work (still working on a source for a compressor of proper girth).
Finally my first attempt and learning to airbrush. I forgot to take home a heat gun so the image below has some smudges etc but it's only on plexi glass that I'm practicing on before attempting to work on the actual backglass.
Not shown below is receipt of Gerbermask and transfer tape for the pending stenciling. Overall I'm happy with all the results, at least progress is still inching along!

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#53 5 months ago

Damn...building all new boards....you are setting the bar pretty high for those of us who call ouselves amateur restorers
..great job and fantastic attention to detail.

#54 5 months ago

With many thanks to Vid1900 and his restoration thread, namely this topic:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/29#post-2024747

I have finally labored to produce what I consider proper dithering / halftone dots! (Further fine-tuning to follow).
The clear water slide decals I have are only 8.5x11 so I will have to print these in sections but there are natural breaks on the PF that will accommodate this. See my sample images below. To the left and below the V WHEN LIT you can see my reproduction halftone dots whereas above and right of it, I've yet to configure the halftone. While it may not be quite the same as original or the currently unobtanium CPR reproductions, I think I may have finally been able to re-create the original look.
Now, hopefully I can retrace my steps I used to do this one section for all the others!

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#55 5 months ago

Man, you are making some great progress. Coming along awesome. Like Cosmo said, building new boards you're really going the extra mile...and giving me a complex. LOL.

#56 5 months ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Like Cosmo said, building new boards you're really going the extra mile.

I'm also doing that as a stall tactic as I'm only a beginner with an airbrush and paint-gun, but my procrastination is about to have to come to a halt as I'm about all out of busy work and will have to teach my self to paint!

But I appreciate the kudos!

#57 5 months ago

You're really going all out on this one, aren't you? Fantastic progress!

#58 5 months ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

I'm also doing that as a stall tactic as I'm only a beginner with an airbrush and paint-gun, but my procrastination is about to have to come to a halt as I'm about all out of busy work and will have to teach my self to paint!
But I appreciate the kudos!

I'd much rather paint a cab and backbox than build boards from scratch. Shouldn't take you long to get the hang of it...then you'll be repainting or touching up all your games. I'm in the middle of restoring my Bally Vampire..check out that thread. Just getting started on patching the cab and painting myself. I'll have to get more pics uploaded. Patch work is the worst part.

1 week later
#59 4 months ago

This is another very short update...
Finally sourced a decent compressor from CL! And from a local paint supply shop, some 4:1 clear. It's not the one Vid recommends but they tell me it should do the job.
Started working on the cab backbox, my little pad sander isn't going to cut it for the playfield sanding of clear, so I'll be looking for an orbital this weekend.
Rebuilt coin door, tumbled many parts and replaced door skin.
Finished off the last of the PCBs with the socketing.
Played with the airbrush over the past weekend and had one trial turn out pretty good. While it's green, it is only on plexiglass afterall for practice - didn't want to run out of blue. Hopefully I will get to do the original glass this weekend, if I get up enough courage.
Replaced the old power cord that had the ground prong removed!

That's about all I can think of for now. Hopefully next week I'll return with some progress on the cab and playfield!

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#60 4 months ago

Any progress is progress. Keep the updates coming...and you'll be fine with the airbrush, just dive in!! (after a few more practice runs on something else) haha

1 week later
#61 4 months ago

Short mid-week update, had success with blue Createx on the backglass for "SILVERBALL, but trying to do a yellow TILT proved so far unsuccessful. I'm going to try adding some 4030 Balancing Clear to see if it will help adhesion.
A few images of the SILVERBALL on the bg. Obviously once all text has been replaced, I'll spray the black and it should be pretty close to the original.

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#62 4 months ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Short mid-week update, had success with blue Createx on the backglass for "SILVERBALL, but trying to do a yellow TILT proved so far unsuccessful. I'm going to try adding some 4030 Balancing Clear to see if it will help adhesion.
A few images of the SILVERBALL on the bg. Obviously once all text has been replaced, I'll spray the black and it should be pretty close to the original.

4030 should help a little. From what I've seen, darker colors are always easier than yellow or lighter colors. Looking good though man. Keep it up!

#63 4 months ago

I have a populated playfield if you need anything that might help out with this resto.

#64 4 months ago

@colsond3 & @woody76 - thanks guys!

#65 4 months ago

Don't get discouraged....keep chugging along. The weekend is almost here.

#66 4 months ago

Update from the weekend, just a little more progress.
After fouling up the back glass, I learned that Clorox wipes contain NO BLEACH, but the do a wonderful job of making Createx peel for easy removal! After that little snafu, I was successful at repairing the BG where the paint had peeled from my previous fix attempt. I think it turned out pretty dang good if I do say so myself. There looks like one little spot where the paint bubbled or something but hopefully when coat it I triple thick, it will help seal it for good.
I ended up turning my spare bedroom into a paint booth after covering all the walls and floor with plastic, works pretty good. This allowed me to get the cab and backbox primered with Kilz and painted with the white latex base. Hopefully I will get the blue and black shot this week so I can have the room for the playfield this weekend. I have to get it's first coat done so I can start the waterslide decal and repaint work. I hope to report back next week with even more progress. Thanks all for tuning in and c-ya again soon!

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#67 4 months ago

Well, two steps forward, one back... after spraying Triple Thick on the BG repair, I checked in on it this morning to find blistering!
I had tested it on a section of BG that would not matter if it peeled, got positive results so I proceeded to spray the entire glass... the only thing I can think of is that I sprayed too much as it was NOT peeling everywhere (more visible in the blue SILVERBALL image here)... not overly concerned as once I scrap off the blister, I should be able to remove the Createx using the method in my previous post and can just reapply to the lettering.. that is if the method above does not remove the black base layer I put down.
Could be a few days before I am able to post my results.

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#68 4 months ago

Sometimes when you spray clear or triple thick in too hot/warm of a temperature you get blistering. There is a chance you used a bit too much, but more likely the temperature, air pockets or uneven spray. The first few I ever did I practiced on scrapped glasses, and they didn't come out great. When I do it now I do three coats and it looks like a sheet of glass.

There is also a thread on issues with using Triple Thick that you should check out.

#69 4 months ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

There is a chance you used a bit too much, but more likely the temperature, air pockets or uneven

I don't think temp was the issue, both the glass and triple thick had been, and were painted indoors, at a stable temp. I have a feeling I put it on too thick ironic considering its name!
Rather than apply multiple coats as I did before all the paint work, I rushed. When will I ever learn to slow down lol
Oh well I'll get it fixed up.
I will check out the triple thick thread on here, i can't recall seeing it before so thanks for the tips!

#70 4 months ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

I will check out the triple thick thread on here, i can't recall seeing it before so thanks for the tips!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/before-you-use-triple-thick-or-attempt-to-seal-a-backglass#post-3651861

2 weeks later
#71 4 months ago

Wow, almost 2 weeks since my last update. This is another short one but progress is being made.
I got my first 2 coats of clear laid down to "lock down" the original art work to use as a guide. Pretty much everything is getting new paint or waterslide decals so I'm not overly concerned with the original. I know in Vids guide he mentions one lock down coat but with all the missing art on this and the layers that creates, I've sanded the crap out of it. Mainly as on my second coat my spray gun fouled up and wasn't atomizing the clear properly so it created some orange peel and fish eyes that took about two hours of sanding, wiping off sludge, cleaning with naptha, "rinse and repeat" over and over... I finally got it to a level I think I can work with (however pictures below don't adequately illustrate this substrate) I am now working on my stencils for base coat of black and blue to provide a solid foundation for alignment of waterslide decals. This weekend I hope to continue that process and hopefully get the stencil laid and painted on the cab and back box. I need those ready for when I get around to the final clear coats in order to shoot off excess clear.
Hope to be back Monday with a better update and better images. Hopefully I can start making more than 2 steps forward with 1 back!

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#72 3 months ago

Well I'm back to report one more step forward and 1.5 steps back!
This weekend was focused on stenciling and painting on the cab and bb. While the blue layer went on beautifully, the black was a different story. I guess it was already too thin as when I removed my stencil... many runs were revealed. It looks great from afar, very afar! LOL
So I suppose I'll sand down and try again. I did shoot it while it was vertical. So the next attempt I'll lay it down (only permitting painting of one side at a time) and will shoot the whole thing with clear first to allow the stencil (Oracal 813) to get solid adhesion.
Enjoy the images and see ya again soon.

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#73 3 months ago

Darn you black paint!

#74 3 months ago

Don't feel too bad. I've had to re-stencil a couple of projects. How much paint to get on, how to do that, and pulling the stencils are the trickiest part.

#75 3 months ago

Definitely...you could always go through and clean it up with the airbrush. Still looks great man...as I keep saying, any progress at all is progress.

#76 3 months ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

...clean it up with the airbrush

I had not considered that but is worth considering!
Thx

#77 3 months ago

Use a plastic squeegee and REALLY apply the mask before you spray.

Any bubbles will allow paint to creep under the stencil.

#78 3 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Use a plastic squeegee and REALLY apply the mask before you spray.
Any bubbles will allow paint to creep under the stencil.

There he is!! Where the hell've you been Vid?

#79 3 months ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

There he is!! Where the hell've you been Vid?

Basking under the shadow of the Eclipse..

#80 3 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Use a plastic squeegee

I had used one of these rollers to try and make sure the stencil mask was laid well. I think the black was too thin already and I sprayed the black on a vertical plane and had the spray volume turned up too high on my gun.
I think on round 2, I'll shoot the cab with clear before the black layer and do one side of the cab at a time horizontally.
I'm out of Oracal for the black layer so won't get that done this weekend, but may make some PF progress. As long as our electricity holds out over the weekend, I'll likely have plenty of time to finish the waterslide decals and hopefully get started laying them down.

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#81 3 months ago

Don't use a roller for vinyl stencils. Just don't. It really doesn't shove out the air bubbles or let you apply enough pressure.

Use one of these instead. amazon.com link »

#82 3 months ago
Quoted from LynnInDenver:

Don't use a roller for vinyl stencils.

Thanks for the tip, i have lots of the plastic squeegees and will use them next time.

I was blessed to weather the storm Harvey w/o incident but have no progress to share at this time. Once things begin to settle for our region, i will post the little strides I've made. But for now, Thanks to everyone for your support during the chaos down here, it's not likely to calm down soon.
God bless!

#83 3 months ago

Sorry to hear about the weather and devastation down there...glad that you were able to tough it out without incident. Sometimes pinball takes the way back seat...unfortunately it's had to for me a few times in the last two months.

2 weeks later
#84 87 days ago

So this weekend was cabinet & backbox painting version 2.0. Finally a small victory! I had sanded off the paint from round 1, reapplied the white, cut more stencil for blue and black. Last weekend painted the blue and did a light sanding after to knock down edges left from stencil (taken from Vid's cabinet repair thread) then applied the black stencil and used the suggested "squeegee" this time to make sure the stencil was nice and secure on the cab, and this time I applied only a mist of black for 3 layers before hitting it with any significant volume. To my satisfaction, I now have a cab with some great looking artwork. Many thanks to the posters above in this tread for the tips and suggestions and to to the cabinet repair thread from Vid.
Now I'm trying to decide if I want to clear coat or leave "natural".

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#85 87 days ago

The second small victory from the weekend came when doing some more experimenting with the Cameo for playfield masking stencils. So, I re-visited the Cameo topic and noted that @curbfeeler had indicated using the DXF file type. Damn I wish I had looked at this thread again in detail long before now. Here is the success I posted:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/silhouette-cameo-pinball-restorers-club/page/4#post-3971662

So I want to reiterate, use a DXF file and SKIP the trace function of the Cameo! Then one does not need to play with the Threshold and Filter settings, these images are from simply sending the DXF straight to the cut function of the Cameo (after setting the media type and blade settings). Hooray for small victories!

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#86 87 days ago

Looking GOOD!!

#87 85 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

So I want to reiterate, use a DXF file and SKIP the trace function of the Cameo! Then one does not need to play with the Threshold and Filter settings, these images are from simply sending the DXF straight to the cut function of the Cameo (after setting the media type and blade settings). Hooray for small victories!

In general, autotracing can (and is so often you can assume always) be garbage. I try not to use it except for the largest of things where I don't care for keeping detail and accuracy. Having it as a "feature" in the Cameo is for those who don't know about vector files, or don't really care.

1 week later
#88 73 days ago

Here is another brief update:
Finished the paint on the cab by adding the black accent to the "neck" and got one initial layer of clear on it and the backbox.
Finally was able to finish masking off the PF in order to paint the black layer. HOWEVER, when I went to remove the Oramask stencils and reveal my paint job, in multiple places, the Oramask removed clearcoat. I had applied the Oramask pieces over a period of weeks and wonder if that has something to do with it removing clear in places. The "lockdown" coat of clear had multiple weeks to cure before I ever put the first piece of mask on so I'm not really sure what happened. I did not get pics of this but would guess someone has experienced this?
I didn't panic knowing I can sand, fill in the missing clear with the dropper technique (much like filling sunken inserts) and re-clear the entire PF to establish a new flat layer and start again, but wanted to share my experience. I've already cut new stencil pieces for attempt number 2, but this time I cut them out of Gerbermask. I am hoping it will not be as "tacky" as the Oramask. I don't plan on applying them until I am ready to paint, in hopes this prevents the clear from "peeling" off again.

So, yet again, 1 1/2 steps forward, 1/2 back... at least it's progress.

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#89 72 days ago

Got a little more done last night. While waiting on my air compressor to catch up between sandings of the PF from my previous post, I got the blue coat on the apron and installed all new lamp sockets and buss wiring on the backbox door.
Then after getting the hills / valley's filled & sanded, I shot another layer of clear which should get sanded this evening. Hopefully this will give me another solid foundation to prep and try and paint AGAIN.

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#90 68 days ago

Coming along great man!!! That cabinet looks friggin fantastic. I've been down with some issues and then knee surgery, you're inspiring me to get my ass in gear and get back attacking my Vampire. Keep up the good work....looking awesome.

#91 65 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

got the blue coat on the apron

Waiting to see how you handle the tiny text on your apron.

PPS should still have some silverball repros if you need one.

#92 65 days ago
Quoted from brenna98:

Waiting to see how you handle the tiny text on your apron.

Lol, I'm thinking it may get left off! Or re-done in black waterslide decal.
I have considered a repro but find myself getting very frugal with this restore now!

#93 65 days ago

Hooray, I was successful in shooting my black layer on the pf and NOT removing clear when I pulled my masking stencils off. However i spent more time unclogging my "deluxe" HF airbrush last night than I spent shooting and drying the Createx.
I'm going tonight to get the quick change style since I won't be doing anything but shooting basic colors, no shading etc. I hope to shoot yellow or orange tonight.

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#94 65 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

I hope to shoot yellow or orange tonight.

The yellow and orange areas are right next to each other. You might damage the fresh paint if you apply new Frisk film right away.
In my experience it's safer to let the airbrushed colours cure overnight.

#95 65 days ago
Quoted from g94:

In my experience it's safer to let the airbrushed colours cure overnight.

I appreciate the tip! The black will have had 24 hours to cure by this evening, thus I would only take on one additional color tonight. If I get the masking templates done for the blue, that I will cut with the Cameo, I'll shoot it next. My free hand cutting of frisket leaves much to be desired so I'm using Oracal and Gerbermask for stencil templates since every bit of the PF will be covered with either new paint or waterslide decals.
To TRY and re-create the halftone dots or not to is the burning question I'm toiling over now. I've already deviated from a pure restore by using jewel type inserts, thus I may skip the half tones since this is my first PF restore. I'm still playing with the halftones in Photoshop and will see if I can get them to look accurate printing them on waterslides.
I've got to really force myself NOT to get in a rush as this stage, as I'm super eager to get the pf done so I can begin to repopulate it. But I'll get there when I get there!

Quoted from Colsond3:

down with some issues and then knee surgery

Oddly enough, I was out of commission for two weeks battling staph infection in my freaking face, and was hospitalized for three days. I'm glad to be able to be getting back to work on this lingering project!
Hope you have since recovered too.

#96 65 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

To TRY and re-create the halftone dots or not to is the burning question I'm toiling over now. I'm still playing with the halftones in Photoshop and will see if I can get them to look accurate printing them on waterslides.

Impossible to airbrush a dotted halftone pattern. And personally I wouldn't take the risk to cover such large areas with waterslide decals. I mean: it's ok to have a title or small area covered with a waterslide decal, but not sure if a large area will hold against ball impact, even if covered with clear. In my EBD restore I decided to airbrush a nice gradient instead.

#97 63 days ago

Man is airbrushing posing a challenge for me for some reason. I made a second attempt on the orange layer last night. (I had to try twice on the black layer too as discussed in previous post) I made sure to scuff the surface first with 600 grit, set my air pressure regulator at 40psi so when spraying it was around 20psi. I added some Createx 4030 for improved adhesion and then started by spraying 3 light layers of white for a base coat. I followed the instructions on the Createx application guide allowing each layer to air dry a few minutes before heat setting, then sprayed 3 layers of orange, following same instructions. It was late in the evening when that was all done so I waited until this morning before work to remove my mask, and while the results were much better than attempt 1, there was still some peeling. I just can't imagine what step I'm missing that is causing the "latex" effect. Any and all suggestions are welcome as I stated before, I'm ready to get this thing done so I can re-assemble, grrr.

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#98 63 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Man is airbrushing posing a challenge for me for some reason. I made a second attempt on the orange layer last night. (I had to try twice on the black layer too as discussed in previous post) I made sure to scuff the surface first with 600 grit, set my air pressure regulator at 40psi so when spraying it was around 20psi. I added some Createx 4030 for improved adhesion and then started by spraying 3 light layers of white for a base coat. I followed the instructions on the Createx application guide allowing each layer to air dry a few minutes before heat setting, then sprayed 3 layers of orange, following same instructions. It was late in the evening when that was all done so I waited until this morning before work to remove my mask, and while the results were much better than attempt 1, there was still some peeling. I just can't imagine what step I'm missing that is causing the "latex" effect. Any and all suggestions are welcome as I stated before, I'm ready to get this thing done so I can re-assemble, grrr.

I suspect that your paint layer is too thick. There is also a possibility that the 4030 is working against you in this case by increasing adhesion not only to the playfield and between layers but also to the mask material.

Try skipping the 4030, lay down one thin layer of white and then just enough thin applications of orange to provide even coverage.

Also, when removing your mask start at one corner and peel SLOWLY until you reach the image. At that point rather than allowing the mask to peel in two directions simultaneously, slice the lifted mask with a razor blade and just peel SLOWLY around the edge in one direction. Peeling away from the paint more than up tends to work better.

Good luck!

#99 63 days ago

Difficult to guess what exactly is the reason.
What I do different from you (and I don't encounter these problems):

- I sand with #400 grid, then finish with #600
- first I spray white primer, not white paint
- I spray thin layers using a lot of air, my playfield hardly gets "wet".
- I don't use additives (if my paint is too thick I will add a few drops of water)
- I remove the mask as soon as my paint is air dry. I never wait until next morning.

Be optimistic: in a way it's good that your paint peels of now. Better that adhesion problems show up at this stage than later when you're playing pinball again

#100 63 days ago

Thanks @pinheadpierre, @g94 and @Vid1900 with his post of:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/99#post-4013660

I'll give these tips / suggestions a shot and see if I can't have better luck.

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