(Topic ID: 247148)

police force car won't reset sometimes

By illpoet

4 years ago


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#1 4 years ago

So i recently acquired my first machine, Police Force which is the fulfillment of a teenage dream. It has a few "sometimes" problems though, like sometimes one of the drop targets doesn't register making it impossible to put drug rat in jail and subsequently no jackpot. This seems to have fixed itself though and only happened the first day i had it.

The game breaking error though is that the car will not reset. I searched this forum and found the solution was to reflow the solder on the relay boards. So i pulled the easy relay board and reflowed the solder on it. Once i put it back the car reset for one game. then after i turned the machine off it went right back to not resetting which made me sad. My friend who also has a system 11 pin (diner) suggested i unplug the machine then plug it back in. So i tried and and sure enough it fixed it until i turned the machine off again. unplugging then plugging back in seems to fix it again. When i bought the machine the previous owner told me it had an issue where about 1 in ten times you turn it on it won't properly boot up. I wonder if the problems are related.

any advice would be appreciated, i'm really new to the world of pinball repair. I can keep unplugging/plugging back in but i am afraid that if i don't fix the underlying problem it will get worse and eventually won't reset even after i unplug/plug.

#2 4 years ago

Tighten the pulley belt. Of its loose, the car won’t work right.

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from illpoet:

My friend who also has a system 11 pin (diner) suggested i unplug the machine then plug it back in. So i tried and and sure enough it fixed it until i turned the machine off again. unplugging then plugging back in seems to fix it again. When i bought the machine the previous owner told me it had an issue where about 1 in ten times you turn it on it won't properly boot up. I wonder if the problems are related.

Please post a picture of the big MPU board and another of the power supply, should be the top right board.

#4 4 years ago

ok i'll post them as soon as i get home this evening.

#5 4 years ago

Also measure the 5 volts from the power supply.

#6 4 years ago

ok here's the mpu and powers supply

mpu (resized).jpgmpu (resized).jpgpower supply (resized).jpgpower supply (resized).jpg
#7 4 years ago

ok grumpy watching youtube on how to test it with a multimeter now. I figure i should prob get one of those lol. also here's pictures of the other boards behind the backglass.

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#8 4 years ago

Have you tightened belt yet?

#9 4 years ago

I checked it, it seems fine. I can manually move the car back and forth with the pulleys and theres plenty of tension on it. Its actually working fine right now. It just happens sometimes.

#10 4 years ago

Glad it’s working but def sounds like the pulley as it’s intermitant.

I would raise pf and activate the car a bunch of times over and over and when it Happens, see what’s going on. Is the wheel that pulls the car moving but not grabbing onto the cable?

#11 4 years ago

Ill do that for sure now that its working to get a better idea. It would be awesome if its an easy fix.

#12 4 years ago

If that pulley band isn’t tight enough, it won’t grab onto the wheel. It’ll slip. Needs more friction in other words.

#13 4 years ago

Well it stopped working again lol. So the pulley is engaging the cable but it looks like its pushing it forward instead of backwards. I read an archived thread about reflowing the solder on the relays if this happens. I did it to one of the relays im going to pull the other and reflow it.

#14 4 years ago

arg. so i tightened the belt, no luck. it's definitely moving the motor forward when it should be spinning backwards. I also reflowed the solder on both relays, and also no luck. I'm not super sure where to go from here. I guess i could replace the motor but gut is telling me the motor isn't the problem. It's also having issues on startup where it seems like it's not getting enough power. it always had this issue but it's happening more frequently now. probably try to find a pro in the next few days i think.

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from illpoet:

ok grumpy watching youtube on how to test it with a multimeter now. I figure i should prob get one of those lol. also here's pictures of the other boards behind the backglass.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

And did you measure the 5 volts? You need to follow through with the testing. You have a 30 year old machine that hasn't had any work done on it, now might be the time.

#16 4 years ago

that was next on my list. got a multimeter coming tommorrow or the next day. I suspect that might have something to do with the problems. If it's not getting the 5v do i just replace the power supply? i see i can get a rottendog one.

#17 4 years ago

I would rebuild the original power supply.

#18 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I would rebuild the original power supply.

+1 or sent it out for repair.

#19 4 years ago

Thats cool i watched a video of someone rebuilding one ot didnt look too hard. I feel like its got something wrong with it bc every few times i turn the machine on it doesnt boot correctly.

#20 4 years ago

If you have never soldered before, give me a PM.

#21 4 years ago

Most of the capacitors and the bridge rectifier are actually quite difficult to remove without damaging the board.

#22 4 years ago

I have soldered before, but never something so valuable lol. Also when looking at it today i realized that the previous owner had done a mod on the car that made it light up, but it didnt work until today, im guessing theres a short in the wire that i knocked back into life while putting the relay board back on the playfield. Could this mod be the problem? Its connected to the lights on the backglass.

#23 4 years ago

Well .how about posting a picture?

#24 4 years ago

arg. im out of town til sunday but i will take pictures of the car, and also where the guy wired it as soon as i get home.

#25 4 years ago
Quoted from illpoet:

Also when looking at it today i realized that the previous owner had done a mod on the car that made it light up, but it didnt work until today

It should look like this.

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#26 4 years ago

I’m very close to you (30 mins?) and willing to come give you a hand rebuilding the Power Supply. I have everything for that board in stock. Nvram too if you want those batteries gone. No charge for my time, pm me if you want some help.

#27 4 years ago
Quoted from Completist:

I’m very close to you (30 mins?) and willing to come give you a hand rebuilding the Power Supply. I have everything for that board in stock. Nvram too if you want those batteries gone. No charge for my time, pm me if you want some help.

Awesome of you!

I noticed in the pics , his interconnect board has several crispy connectors, as well as his driver board has alot burn around the diodes and the relay,

#28 4 years ago
Quoted from dc2010:

Awesome of you!
I noticed in the pics , his interconnect board has several crispy connectors, as well as his driver board has alot burn around the diodes and the relay,

The Interconnect has been worked on before - note the two new molex connectors on the bottom right. Looks like a new wire was run (white) to somewhere. Likely ok and just not tied back into the harness.

#29 4 years ago

this is so cool thank you guys. this thread has taught me so much. i sent completist a pm. I will happily at least pay for some gas and dinner of his choice anywhere in washington, jefferson or berkely county.

#30 4 years ago

I would look at that driver board, alot toasty looking diodes

#31 4 years ago
Quoted from Completist:

The Interconnect has been worked on before - note the two new molex connectors on the bottom right. Looks like a new wire was run (white) to somewhere. Likely ok and just not tied back into the harness.

Maybe pull the inner connect board and check for cracked header pins at 2J4 pin 16 and 2J12 pin 1. If they are good then check the Aux power supply 5J2 pin 1 and 5J6 pin 1.

#32 4 years ago

its weird the boards looked fine when i examined them with the naked eye, but was worried when all that showed up in the pics. is the driver board refering to drivers like in a computer? ie letting the hardware work with the software?

#33 4 years ago
Quoted from illpoet:

its weird the boards looked fine when i examined them with the naked eye, but was worried when all that showed up in the pics. is the driver board refering to drivers like in a computer? ie letting the hardware work with the software?

In post 7 first pic, look at blackened areas around your diodes, the flipper relay, you could have a faulty diode causing issues, or will soon, these boards are 30 yrs old, you can test them with a dmm set to diode function (line with arrow in center) they should read .4 - .7 if less than .4(.400) they are bad and will need replaced, since a local pinsider is coming to help, I'm sure he will access though,

#34 4 years ago

So i come home from my trip and the car started working again, but if i turn it off and back on it then doesnt work. I tested the power supply and it reads way lower than it should like .004. Its possible i'm not using the multimeter right though. I should be meeting with completeist this week tho so hopefully we can figure it out. Here are the pictures of the wiring the previous owner out in of the car mod.
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#35 4 years ago

Make sure you have your meter set to Vdc (V==), not Vac (V~)

#36 4 years ago

Illpoet brought his mpu and power supply over yesterday. Was able to work on the PS tonight. New caps, rebuilt high voltage section and installed 91V zeners to lower the display voltage to hopefully extend the life of the original plasma ones.

The brown marks you see on the boards in the original pics are not heat marks. Just some fine dirt that’s accumulated, which i cleaned off with some isopropyl.

Tested the ps in my BK2K and everything looks good including voltages. Mind you i didn't test then before hand so can’t really say i improved anything in that regards. But 30 year old caps owe us nothing and no more batteries on the mpu and thats always worth the time!

Heading over tomorrow to deliver the boards and we will see whats up with that police car.

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#37 4 years ago

So after completist came over we decided that it was probably the belt. I tightened it after it was suggested on here but not enough. also the belt was not the OEM belt and was a bit smaller. So i ordered the actual belt for the machine and have tightened it down. I'll post pictures and stuff if that gets it working. thanks again everyone!

#38 4 years ago

thought i would post an update. COmpleteist came over again and it turns out it wasn't the belt. We tried a few fixes and nothing was working so we moved to the drop target problem, one of the targets wasn't registering. After he reharnessed the wiring to the opto board the car started working fine. So we think maybe it was an issue where the drop target shared a ground with the car motor. I'm super grateful for everyones help. i was blown away by completeist's willingness to help! thanks again!

#39 4 years ago
Quoted from illpoet:

thought i would post an update. COmpleteist came over again and it turns out it wasn't the belt. We tried a few fixes and nothing was working so we moved to the drop target problem, one of the targets wasn't registering. After he reharnessed the wiring to the opto board the car started working fine. So we think maybe it was an issue where the drop target shared a ground with the car motor. I'm super grateful for everyones help. i was blown away by completeist's willingness to help! thanks again!

So what we noticed is that the motor worked, but the motor would not reverse direction when it hit the limit. Rather it would keep driving and slip on the belt. The switches were registering correctly. So took out the car motor relay (which Illpoet had already done previously) and reflowed solder on the relay and the header pins this time too. No improvement. What was also strange is that in test it would display “car down” but actually the motor would go in the car up direction. Back asswards.

Anyway moved onto the middle drop bank which was not registering one of the targets (not in switch test either). Found a broken wire in the idc connector. A suspect! Replaced the connector with a molex one and Trifurcon pins. Powered back on and now the car works perfect? But drop target still needs work, but ran out of time to pull the drop target opto board and look at the headers etc.

I could not recall how the displays are mounted to the backboard. I believe there should be a bolt going through the light-board, through some spacers and fixed the displays. But not sure what the spacer length should be. Or maybe none at all?

#40 4 years ago

Interesting.

Sometimes it’s hard to understand why one thing fixes another. But sounds like it’s fixed (knock on wood)

Props to completist for helping!

#41 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Interesting.
Sometimes it’s hard to understand why one thing fixes another. But sounds like it’s fixed (knock on wood)
Props to completist for helping!

big props to completist! i learned a ton just watching him troubleshoot the machine. So far it's working perfectly. On sunday at my house there was a cookout where both my machines were played heavily. the car never malfunctioned over the coarse of probably 20+ games. the high speed completist sold me also worked great

#42 4 years ago
Quoted from Completist:

No improvement. What was also strange is that in test it would display “car down” but actually the motor would go in the car up direction. Back asswards.

Anyway moved onto the middle drop bank which was not registering one of the targets (not in switch test either). Found a broken wire in the idc connector. A suspect! Replaced the connector with a molex one and Trifurcon pins. Powered back on and now the car works perfect?

Was the green/yellow wire the one you fixed?

pf (resized).PNGpf (resized).PNG
#43 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Was the green/yellow wire the one you fixed?[quoted image]

Ha yes. I meant to look that up and see if they were in the same row/column. It was a green wire at the start or end of the connector anyway. Cant recall if it had a stripe but most likely

#44 4 years ago
Quoted from Completist:It was a green wire

The mystery is solved! Nice job.

#45 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The mystery is solved! Nice job.

Accidental success!!

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