We decided to rabbit out the sides of the back box in order to accommodate the back panel. After inserting the back panel, it is glued and stapled in place for a nice secure fit.

Installing Back Panel (resized).JPG
Back Box (resized).JPG

Now the excess glue can be scraped away. It's better to do this now before it sets up, much less work now.

Removing Excess Glue (resized).JPG

After a little compound miter work the back box instruction panel can be glued and mounted in place.

Back Box Instruction Panel (resized).JPG

Well, that's enough for one day. I hope you guys enjoyed today's wood working adventure

I love wood triangle corner braces too

Checkout what I got in the mail today

PF1 (resized).jpg
PF6 (resized).jpg
PF5 (resized).jpg
PF4 (resized).jpg
PF2 (resized).jpg
PF3 (resized).jpg

After Hurricane Matthew flooded one side of my house......

Flooding (resized).JPG

Hurricane Mike came through!

Before:

Shrubs (resized).JPG

After:

No more bushes (resized).JPG
Digging (resized).JPG

Digging up 50 well established viburnums is brutal. Anyway, pinball projects are on hold until I can get my home issues resolved

On the bright side, at least my family made it through the storm safely

Oh, and I figured out how the water came in, so it's just a matter of time and money. My life is starting to fell like that old Tom Hanks movie, "The Money Pit."

The home appears to be below grade in general. The dirt on the north side was actually above the sill plate, which looks to be all the way down to the slab. Crazy, just issue after issue with this home.

I'll be taking a break from pinball until my home endeavors are resolved. It appears I should change my name to Tom Hanks as I bought the "Money Pit." Checkout my rotten walls:

Wall Rot1 (resized).jpg
Wall Rot2 (resized).jpg

It will all get worked out, but unfortunately pinball will be on the back burner for the foreseeable future.

Nope. Sometimes I wonder why we even have insurance

The home renovations are moving forward. The progress is slow, but at least we're moving in the right direction. With that said, I have been tinkering with the cabinets at by buddy Mike W's house

So, here's a progress update:

Cabinet parts:
Cabinet Parts (resized).JPG

It's time to dry fit a cabinet with all the internal cross members installed. However, we first need to setup our work table:
Paulk Workbench (resized).JPG

This is the Ron Paulk work bench. If you're interested in building one, here are the details:
http://www.paulkhomes.com/order-plans.html

This is a fantastic work bench that incorporates the Festool MFT hole pattern design. It's light weight and it's easily dissembled when floor space is needed.

Here's a look at the internal cabinet transformer and coin door brackets:
Transformer Brackets (resized).JPG

I don't have a Festool Domino yet (someday), so we went with good old biscuit joints:
Biscuit Points (resized).JPG
Biscuits (resized).JPG

Once these are glued in they'll make a great joint

In order to hold everything together, we're using some Woodpeckers clamping squares and Bessey strap clamps with Harbor Freight ratchet straps:

Clamping Squares (resized).JPG
Bessey Strap Corners (resized).JPG

Here's a look at the dry fitted cabinet:
Dry Fit (resized).JPG

After squaring up the corners, we can now work on the top of the cabinet:
Squaring Corners (resized).JPG

Here's a look at the pieces used to build the back box support panel:
Cabinet Parts Comparison (resized).JPG

I think the new parts look better

Now I can test out a new toy. This is a Grex 23 gauge pin nailer and it's awesome:
Grex Pin Nailer (resized).JPG

If you aren't familiar with pin nails, here's what they look like:
Pin Nails (resized).JPG

They are tiny right? This means they leave virtually unnoticeable holes in your work, that will be filled by paint later:
Pin Nail Hole (resized).JPG

Plus, it's easy to remove pin nailed parts, which is good since we are just dry fitting the cabinet.

The top bracket was oversized; this way we could route the edges to make them match the cabinet using a trim bit:
Top Bracket Overhang (resized).JPG
Top Bracket Overhang #2 (resized).JPG

Here's what a trim bit looks like:
Trim Router Bit (resized).JPG

It uses a bearing that rides on the surface you are trying to match.

To do this we'll be using a Festool OF 1400 router:
Festool Router (resized).JPG
Router in Action (resized).JPG

After running the router around the top panel, it now lines up perfectly with the cabinet sides
Trimmed Top Bracket (resized).JPG

Now it's time to install the support bracket that the rear glass channel attaches to. That's why we had to install the top panel in the previous post. This enabled us to determine it's exact location.

To do this we'll have to mortise a slot in each side of the cabinet. Here are some nifty Incra rulers that make measurements a breeze:
Incra Corner Ruler (resized).JPG
Incra Ruler (resized).JPG

I love this right angle ruler

Now that the cut lines are laid out, I'll pin nail a scrap piece of wood to the cabinet wall for the router to ride along and cut my mortise:
Rear Channel Mortise (resized).JPG

After doing this on both sides of the cabinet, here's a look at the rear glass channel support installed:
Rear Glass Channel Support (resized).JPG

Here's a close up look at the mortise and tenon joints used:
Rear Glass Channel Tenon (resized).JPG

Now it's time to cut the the glass channel slots. Again, we'll use the Festool OF 1400 router to accomplish this task.

First, we need to determine the right depth and cut location, so some testing is required:
Router Test (resized).JPG

Now you see why the Paulk work bench table is so nice to work with

Router testing:
Router Test #2 (resized).JPG
Glass Channel Test Fit (resized).JPG

After a couple attempts, we've got the router setup where we want it. The outside edge of the plastic glass channel tracks should be flush with the edge of the exterior cabinet walls as shown above.

Now we can cut our slots:

Before:
Side Rail Glass Channel Slots (resized).JPG

After:
Side Rail Glass Channel Slots #2 (resized).JPG

Ok, that's all for now. We just need to install some tee nut and we'll be able to glue a cabinet up

I've thought about it in the past, but I'd hate to turn a hobby into a job (like the CFTBL MOD). Plus, I'm not sure how cost-effective it would really be to make/sell custom cabinets. With that said, I may change my mind next week

Yeah, I hear you on the bondo.

Thanks for the kind words. I'm just lucky to have some talented friends that I can collaborate with.

Nice work Grant. Those parts look great.

The cabinets are currently on hold, re-landscaping the yard at the moment. I'll probably use 18 gauge brads to nail them up. Honestly, I don't think it matters, just need something to hold the cabinets together while the glue sets up.

Have you ever seen nickel plated jigs?

Mounting Brackets (resized).JPG

Now you have

After measuring out and penciling in the mounting hole locations for the playfield support brackets, we taped the plated parts to the cabinet walls. Using the brackets as hole aliment jigs ensures that they will correctly line up with the holes during assembly after all the painting work is complete.

Mounting Holes (resized).JPG

Make sure you use a backer board to prevent blow out and drill for the outside face of the cabinet. I then counter sunk the holes on the inside of the cabinet to eliminate any chipping that might occur when hammering the bolts though later.

Holes (resized).JPG

Now you can use the drilled cabinet side as a template for the other cabinet side, just square everything up

Transposed Hole Pattern (resized).JPG

After a little sanding, all the pencil lines are removed for the interior cabinet walls.

Sanding Cleanup (resized).JPG

Now we can finish building the top of the cabinet. First, place the rear glass channel mounting board into the mortised slots in the cabinet walls and apply some wood glue on top of the board. Then put the top panel in place, ensuring all sides are flush and square with the adjacent panel surfaces and clamp the two pieces together as shown below:

Top Glue Up (resized).JPG

To answer Gryphun's previous question, I'm using 1.25" 18 gauge brads to nail everything together on the cabinet top assembly. I'll probably use 1.75" or 2" brads for the 3/4" plywood parts.

I really like the Grex GC1850 2" brad nailer. For starters, it's chordless. Plus, it's light weight (2-3lbs), which is great when you're doing molding work above your head or working off a ladder.

Brad Nailer (resized).JPG

Here's at look at the top panel and rear glass channel all nailed up:

Top Panel (resized).JPG

Now we can run this piece across the disk sander; this ensures the transition between the two parts is perfectly smooth, so the top will look like one solid piece after the paint work.

Belt Sander (resized).JPG
Sanding Work (resized).JPG

Using the belt sander, Mike W. and I were able to quickly sand all the faces of the back box support stand:

Sanding Work 2 (resized).JPG

Now it's time to glue and nail these parts together

Top Setup (resized).JPG

Now we can sand these parts (same as above), to make everything smooth and flush.

Anyway, that's enough fun for one day

Time to glue this baby up!

Cabinet Parts (resized).JPG

Here's a must have accessory, if you don't have it already - the Glu-Bot:

Glubot (resized).JPG

Sorry, I didn't take any pictures to document the assembly order, didn't want the glue to setup without getting it put together

Glue Up (resized).JPG

In general, I'd recommend getting the bottom and sides done first. The front and back snap in easily.

Now it's time to install all of the support braces. We cut the 4 corner supports slightly larger, this way the leg brackets would fit flush in the corners (no air gaps)

Corner Brace (resized).JPG

Here's a nifty tip - sand about an 1/8" off the back of each triangle support block; this will help them fit flush when installed:

Bracing Blocks (resized).JPG
Sanded Bracing Blocks (resized).JPG

Here are a few pics of the cabinet after glue up:

Cabinet #1 (resized).JPG
Inside Cabinet (resized).JPG
Cabinet #2 (resized).JPG

I used 1.25" 23 gauge pin nails on the exterior corners, just to hold the cabinet together while the glue setup. I used 1" 18 gauge brads to attached all the triangle support braces.

I stole this idea from Stern.

Before:
Corner Joint (resized).JPG

After:
Sanded Corner (resized).JPG

This was done using a hand file and sanding block. The corner relief will keep the lock bar from digging into the front and sides of the cabinet. No since in scratching up a beautiful paint job. Now I can shake and tilt this baby with no fear of chipping the custom paint job!

Just picked up a new Apollo spray system

5-stage Turbine (resized).JPG
Spraygun (resized).JPG

We still have a few more cabinet cuts to make (corner bevels, etc.), but then it will be time to prime/paint this beauty. I'll try and shoot some videos of the painting process in action. In addition, I'll share my thoughts on the turbine system once I've had a chance to use it. With that said, I've never read a bad review on an Apollo system; they are considered one of the best atomizing turbine systems around by most woodworkers.

That's what I said

I don't think you can go wrong with either Apollo or Fuji.

What good is a pinball cabinet without legs?

Let's drill some leg mounting holes To do this we'll need a jig, like the one below:

Leg hole jig (resized).JPG
Drilling leg holes (resized).JPG

This guy ensures that the leg holes are properly spaced and drilled at the correct 45 degree angles everytime.

Now we can make the chamfer bevels on the bottom of the cabinet. This is done using our trusty router:

Routing chamfers (resized).JPG
Chamfer edge (resized).JPG

Finally, we'll cut a slight chamfer at each corner of the cabinet to knock down the sharp edges.

Chamfer edge 2 (resized).JPG

Now it's time to sand, fill, sand, prime, sand, paint, sand some more and put the finishing base coat of paint on the cabinet. Then I'll need to decide whether to go with stencils or custom air brush artwork.

Cool, glad you’re enjoying the thread

I was starting to wonder if it was too much detail on the cabinet build. Obviously, there’s a ton of work that goes into reproducing a cabinet, so it’s been fun documenting the process.

It might be a little over the top

All of the cabinet work thus far has been done at my buddy Mike W's house (and he does has a great setup ). Now that my rotten walls and underwater yard issues have been resolved we can finally move the project back to my place.

I might do a video for the next machine - most likely EBD.

Just enjoying restoration work at the moment

This is perhaps the greatest movie of all time.... Wait, I take that back.... Howard the Duck!

It's Time to start the finishing work.

Sanding Part1 (resized).JPG

First, I'll hit the cabinet with 150 grit paper.

Sand Paper (resized).JPG

I like "Granat" - this is my paper of choice. Festool has a variety of options, here's a breakdown:

After sanding away all the residual glue from "squeeze out", I paint the corners with some rattle can spray paint to get a better idea of what additional work is needed:

Corner Guide Coat (resized).JPG

I want to get the corners perfect before priming the whole cabinet.

Now it's time for 220 grit paper. With a light guide coat of primer on the wood, I can now easily find all the imperfections at the corners:

Wood Filler Locations1 (resized).JPG
Wood Filler Locations2 (resized).JPG

Hooray, we've made it to the first round of wood filler

Might as well fill all the brad nail holes inside the cabinet as well.

Wood Filling (resized).JPG

That's enough fun for one day.

Maybe I should ask Festool for a sponsorship

Honestly, I think the wife would rather see me purchase tools than pinball machines. Besides, I sold most of my games to finance the workshop. One Stern LE goes a long way at Woodcraft. Plus, Festool doesn't make me write them fan letters to purchase their products