Hi Bob,

You’re right; Festool equipment certainly isn’t cheap However, keep in mind that Festool produces professional grade equipment designed for longevity and superior results. If you are a collector looking to restore one for two pinball machines then I’d recommend going with more budget conscious tools. However, if your hobby is restoring pinball machines, or you enjoy wood working projects, then you can’t go wrong with Festool.

If you are serious about looking into a Festool system, then I’d highly recommend you find a local dealer and checkout the hardware in person. In addition, there are tons of videos on YouTube where people demonstrate Festool equipment in action. For example, McCune has a video demonstrating an AFM decal sanding prep job – very cool.

Over the next few weeks/months, depending on how crazy my work schedule gets, I’ll be building 3 new cabinets: Centaur, Medusa and EBD. During that time I’ll do my best to document the entire process and provide equipment write-ups along the way. This will include track saws, sanders, routers, spraying equipment, etc. - everything you'd need to build a cabinet from scratch. Hopefully this will be detailed and provide some worthwhile info worth archiving here on PinSide

Finished up all of the cutting work for the 80s Bally cabinets today

Again, I'm using 3/4" poplar for the cabinets and back boxs:

Poplar_material_(resized).JPG

These are 5 ply 4'x8' sheets from HD ($50/sheet). I'll need four 4'x8' sheets to build three complete cabinets and back boxes. In addition, I'll be using 1/2"x4'x8' sheets for the cabinet floors and rear back box panels.

Per request, here's some more info on the Festool System utilized for this project:

First, it's important to note that each Festool device is designed to work with a "Festool Dust Extractor."

CT_36_Dust_Extractor_(resized).JPG

You'll have several options here, but personally I'd recommend either the CT 36 or CT 48. The only difference, besides the price of course, is the size/capacity of the extractor. Both the CT 36 and 48 are great, so you can't go wrong either way. One of the things I love the most about Festool equipment is the cleanliness. I can sand or cut wood without breathing in a ton of dust.

Again, the track saw we're using is a TS 75. Don't waste your time with the TCS 55, go with the Cadillac - trust me. The TS 75 has an impressive maximum 2-3/4” straight plunge depth and can cut up to 2-1/8" at 45 degrees, which comes in handy You can purchase tracks ranging form 32" up to 118" in length.

The track saw can be used in a variety of ways. For starters, it's great for making basic rough cuts:

You just place the track where you want to make a cut and used two Festool track clamps to secure the track in place:

Locking_Clamps_(resized).JPG

For precision cuts, I use the MFT-3 multifuntional table system:

MFT-3_Table_(resized).JPG

The only draw back here is the size of the cutting table itself. However, Festool does make a kit that will allow you to join two tables together - yes they like your money

The MFT-3 table is simple, but incredibly versatile. The extruded aluminum frame gives you the ability to attach a fence at any angle, making it possible to cut just about anything in any way imaginable:

Fence_(resized).JPG

The MFT-3 table also provides you the ability to attach your track to the table. The track then pivots at one end, so you can rotate it 90 degrees perpendicular to the table. This way you can easily move parts in and out of the cutting area, then lower the cutting track back into place.

MFT-3_Table_#2_(resized).JPG

Once you square up your fence and tack you'll be making perfect cuts every time:

Perfect_Square_Cut_(resized).JPG

On a side note, don't cut your table in half Adjust the plunge depth for your saw accordingly:

Blade_Depth_Adjustment_(resized).JPG
Blade_Depth_Adjustment_#2_(resized).JPG

Did I mention that the track height is adjustable in relation to the MFT-3 table's surface? Yup, you can stack wood parts, square them up and cut them both at the same time.

Double_Cutting_(resized).JPG

Here's a cool gizmo:

Slide_Stop_(resized).JPG

This adjustable stop slides back and forth in the fence, giving you the ability to set the length for repetitive cuts. With the stop we were able to cut all of the back box sides for 3 cabinets in less than 5 minutes. More importantly, the cuts were repeatable and on the money.

Here's the EBD cabinet, ready for routing now

Cabinet_(resized).JPG

One, two, three cabinets.... No big deal, but trying to reproduce cabinets for the general public in this fashion really doesn't make since. I'd have to CNC everything or the cabinets would cost a fortune. Even then I'd probably have to charge more than what most people would be willing to spend. It's a nice idea, but I really don't want my hobby to turn into a secondary job. If I did then I'd make more CFTBL LCD MODs

Taking a break from wood working this weekend

I decided to work on EBD and get it up and running.

I noticed that F4 (the 5amp fuse on the power module board) was blown. Took a look under the playfeild and found this:

Broken_Fuse_Holder_(resized).JPG

Luckily I had a space fuse holder. The EBD playfield fuse was being held in place via a flipper spring, which was wrapped around the remaining prong. The problem was that it was shorting out on the adjacent coil assembly bracket. I swapped out the fuse holder as well as the power board.

swapped_out_A2_power_board_(resized).JPG

At this point I was able to get the game to boot up. However, after performing the coil test I found this:

Bad_Cool_(resized).JPG
Bad_coil_reading_(resized).JPG

The right sling shot coil was fried. I un-soldered the wires and ohmed it out. The solendoid should read something more like this:

Good_coil_(resized).JPG
Correct_coil_reading_(resized).JPG

I swapped the coil and again replaced the 5amp fuse. Presto..... EBD is now up and running

Up_and_running_(resized).JPG

At least I can now play the game while I'm building a new cabinet and back box.

Agreed

You know a project is progressing when it leads to other projects

Here's a cool pocket screw tool (you can pick one up at Lowes for around $100):

Pocket_Screw_Tool_#1_(resized).JPG
Pocket_Screw_Tool_#2_(resized).JPG

A little glue and some pocket screws go a long way.....

Fence_#1_(resized).JPG

Ok, so what the hell are we building? Yup, you guessed it.... A fence for our router table

Fence_#2_(resized).JPG

Cabinet panels are big and clunky, making them difficult to handle when routing the corners. Therefore, we're building a large fence to ensure we can control the panels when making the cross grain cuts.

I'll be using the following locking miter router bit for the cabinet corner cuts :

Router_Bit_#1_(resized).JPG
Router_Bit_#2_(resized).JPG

Once glued, this should give me the solid corners I want

More Festool toys, this time we're going to play with the OF 1400 router, which is attached to the CMS VL router table:

Router_(resized).JPG
Router_table_(resized).JPG

Festool has two different options for router tables - standalone or an MFT3 table extension system. In this case we're using the MFT3 extension system.

So, how do you set up a router? Well, first you have to get the height of the bit setup correctly. Here's a nifty tool for that:

Bit_Height_Tool_(resized).JPG

The three magnets make it easy to attach to the router bit.

Router_Bit_(resized).JPG

The longer scale lines represent the center lines for the wood you're routing. The horizontal line is used to set the height of your bit while the vertical line is used to set the depth of your fence.

So, now we'll need to notch out a hole in our fence in order to accommodate the router bit.

Fence_router_bit_location_(resized).JPG

Finally, we've added a vacuum box to the rear of our fence in order to help with dust collection. The slide piece on top will be use to guide panels through the router.

Dust_collection_box_(resized).JPG

Now it's just a matter of squaring up the fence to the router table and experimenting with the bit height and fence depth in order to make the fine adjustments needed to have perfect corners. Unfortunately, this is a pain in the ass, but it's necessary to produce the quality cuts needed to have a square cabinet.

Here's a look at Festool's router guide fence system (very similar to the track saw setup used earlier in the thread):

Guide_system_(resized).JPG

It works great for cuts made with the grain:

Cutting_(resized).JPG

Here's a look at the custom guide system we fabricated to handle cross grain cuts:

Cross_Grain_Cut_Guide_System_(resized).JPG

Now, when we stand up panels perpendicular to the table, we'll have a solid means for guiding them through the router

Here are some test pieces used to setup the router:

Corner_Joint_#1_(resized).JPG
Corner_Joint_#2_(resized).JPG

Put them together and you have a cabinet

Box_(resized).JPG

Picked up all the power coated parts for Medusa today. I went with a metallic gold, should look nice with the cabinet trim and art.

Powder_Coated_Parts_(resized).png
Powder_Coated_Parts_#2_(resized).JPG

Here are a few close up pictures to illustrate the finish:

Drop_Target_Bank_(resized).JPG
Coin_door__(resized).JPG

I decided to have a clear top coat applied, help make the metallic flakes pop

It worked on these machines

Fathom_(resized).png
Centaur_(resized).png

FYI - the powder only adds 2 mils per coat.
The key is using heat tape when needed, like on the coil stops:

coil_stops_(resized).JPG

Here's where we left an area for the grounding wire on the bottom of the transformer panel:

transformer_panel_(resized).JPG

I'll have to re-tap all the mounting holes and there will be some tweaking required, but the drops will work correctly once complete. If anything, I'd be more concerned with the zipper flipper mechanism, but that can always get brass plated with the rest of the part

Thanks for the kind words.

You already got a Medusa

I'll document what's required throughout the rebuild, but it shouldn't be too bad

No doubt I'll have a few parts reworked; it's hard to get 100+ pieces perfect the first time around. Typically I'm not a big fan of powder for trim pieces (rails, coin door, etc), but it's a nice custom touch for the coil assemblies

The Festool router table is nice, but here's an even better setup for precision work:

Incra_Positioner_(resized).JPG

The INCRA LS Positioner makes fine adjustments that the Festool fence can't. So, after some modifications, here's what our custom fence system looks like:

Incra_Positioner_2_(resized).JPG
Modified_Fence_Adjustment_System_(resized).JPG
Modified_Fence_Adjustment_System_2_(resized).JPG

Now we can easily adjust the fence depth, making 1/1000" adjustments

We also added some feather boards to our fence system to help control our material when cutting. Here's a look at the cross grain setup:

Feather_Board_System_-_Cross_Grain_Cuts_(resized).JPG

I'm using a wood clamp to help secure the board squarely to the fence, attaching it to the track guide that runs along the top of the fence. Also, I'm using a backer board when cutting, this will ensure the router bit doesn't create any "blowout" while cutting.

Here's a good picture to illustrate a clean cross cut, notice that the exiting section of the board isn't blown out (hence the need for the backer board in the previous picture):

No_Blowout_(resized).JPG

With the cross cuts completed, we can now setup our fence for conventional cutting work:

Feather_Board_System_-_With_Grain_Cuts_(resized).JPG
With_Grain_Cutting_(resized).JPG

Looks like our cuts turned out OK

Example_of_Corner_(resized).JPG

That's all for today.

It's not that complicated, probably just not explaining it very well. Hopefully it’s at least interesting to read

Good tools make all the difference, no doubt about that. If you're only restoring one or two machines, then it really doesn't make since to purchase all this stuff; it would be far cheaper to purchase a few reproduction cabinets. Personally, I'd rather buy the tools than the pinball machines. I like my machines in a millions pieces

I happen to like a certain guy's Frontier restoration just as much

I found this on my door step today.

Box of Parts (resized).JPG

Let's see what Ron has shipped me

Parts (resized).JPG

After 30 minutes of unwrapping, here's the first batch of Medusa parts:

Plated Parts 1 (resized).JPG
Plated Parts 2 (resized).JPG
Plated Parts 3 (resized).JPG

Well done Ron.

It's time for some more routing work

Let's get started with the back box. Here's a look at the bottom panel:

Backbox Bottom (resized).JPG

No need for an elaborate jig, just clamp your wood directly to the back box.

Bottom Panel Setup (resized).JPG

We're going to use a 1.75HP Porter Cable router with a following bit to cut out our new bottom panel. Set the router bit's depth, so the follower bearing rides along the surface of the cutout in the original back box as shown below:

Router Depth Setup (resized).JPG

Now, dill a pilot hole and start routing.

Nothing to it

Use brad point drill bits to create pilot holes for the mounting bolt & tee nut locations:

Through Hole Dimples (resized).JPG

It's drill press time.

Drill Press (resized).JPG

If your drill has a depth stop setting, use it. I like to set the depth, so only the brad point pushes through:

First Side Drilling (resized).JPG

Then I flip the board over and drill from the other side to complete the hole:

Second Side Drilling (resized).JPG

This ensures you don't have a blowout where the drill bit exits, like this:

Drill Press Blowout (resized).JPG

You could use a backer board, but I prefer the method described above. Anyway, here's the finished panel:

Finished Bottom (resized).JPG

Here's a look at the top back box panel, same routing process as described above:

Backbox Top (resized).JPG
Top Panel Setup (resized).JPG
Routing Work 2 (resized).JPG
Finished Top (resized).JPG

That was easy

The right side back box panel is a little more interesting. First, we need to drill out a hole for the lock. Then we'll route out an area for the lock's mounting plate as shown below:

Backbox Right Side (resized).JPG

Here's where the Festool MFT table comes in handy

Side Panel Setup (resized).JPG

With our work piece secured to the table and some scrap wood guides in place, we can now use a 1/4" router bit to cut out the area.

Routing Work 3 (resized).JPG

Here's a look at the finished cutting work:

Finished Backbox Lock Area (resized).JPG

Can you guess how the coin door panel was fabricated?

Coindoor Setup (resized).JPG
Finsihed Coindoor Cutout 1 (resized).JPG

Ok, that's enough fun for one day

Who doesn't love little wooden triangle shaped corner support braces? If you're not a fan of wooden triangles, then this post isn't for you

Before we can assemble the back boxes we'll need to make some corner braces. These guys were cut out of square poplar material using a band saw:

Corner Brace Material (resized).JPG

The only problem is that they have some ugly blade marks that need to be address.

Bandsaw Blade Marks (resized).JPG

So, it's time for another handy dandy jig

Sanding Jig (resized).JPG

This jig gets clamped down to the work table using some Festool clamps.

Festool Clamps (resized).JPG

Now it's time to start sanding, 100 grit should do the trick.

Sanding Corner Braces (resized).JPG

Here's a good comparison after a little elbow grease is applied, Was it worth the extra work?

Before and After Sanding (resized).JPG

Now I can cut the braces to size using a miter saw.

Cutting Corner Braces (resized).JPG

Here's a comparison showing the difference between the factory and reproduction units:

Brace Comparison (resized).JPG

The new ones should painted up nicely

Alright it's time to start assembling the back boxes. First, I'll sand the inside face of every panel; the exterior faces will get sanded later in the process. Now's the time to get as much finishing work done on the interior as possible, just easier this way.

Sanding Back Box Interior (resized).JPG

Here's a look at the back panel:

Finish Back Box Panel (resized).JPG

The vent holes were routed out using the same technique previously documented. Now I can sand out the vent holes, removing any remaining wood furs. Then I'll lightly file the edges of the vent holes.

File Back Box Vent Holes (resized).JPG

Time to start gluing.

Glue (resized).JPG

Once the corner joints are glued, we'll use two ratchet straps to hole the back box together. Here's a look at one of the corners after everything has been squared up:

Corner Joint (resized).JPG

Not a bad joint indeed