(Topic ID: 155153)

PMD - Ultimate Workshop Adventure

By PinballMikeD

3 years ago

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  • Latest reply 11 months ago by PinballMikeD
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    There are 221 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 5.
    #151 2 years ago

    That's great I love your labels.

    This is my favorite thread. I'm currently planning my garage renovation as well. It's a separate 20x30' building, insulated but unfinished. I've got to upgrade electrical, scrape popcorn ceilings, hang drywall... but it'll be worth it.

    I convinced my wife instead of spending $8k to renovate our kitchen, I can build the cabinets myself and get better quality. This gives me a nice big budget for tools.

    Top of my list is a Domino joiner and a track saw!!! Been needing these for a while. I've got the same planar as you, and love my Hitachi miter saw even if it's not the coolest.

    #152 2 years ago
    Quoted from radium:

    I convinced my wife instead of spending $8k to renovate our kitchen, I can build the cabinets myself and get better quality. This gives me a nice big budget for tools.

    Well played. I tried that on my wife, but she wasn't buying what I was selling

    Quoted from radium:

    Top of my list is a Domino joiner and a track saw!!! Been needing these for a while.

    I've been putting the Domino off for awhile, but I know I'll breakdown and get it sooner for later. If you want to do cabinets I'd recommend you pickup the LR32 system for your track saw as well.

    #153 2 years ago

    Radium, have look for a combination machine with a mortising attachment and a sliding table.
    The thicknesser are very heavy duty and you also get a spindle moulder and joiner. Very handy.

    Second hand units are still very good as they literally are built like a tank. Stick to European machines.

    #154 2 years ago

    The one positive thing I can say about the previous home owners is that they left me a free stereo system. That doesn't make up for all the undisclosed water damage, but it does make working in the garage a little more fun

    IMG_2496 (resized).JPG

    2 weeks later
    #155 2 years ago

    Finally got a chance to start my next workshop project:

    Paulk Workbench (resized).JPG

    After seeing my buddy's Paulk Workbench in action, I knew I'd be building one

    But as always, before you can start a project, you have to purchase more toys (I mean tools).... I picked up a set of Tough Built C700 sawhorses from HD and man are they nice.

    sawhorse1 (resized).JPG
    sawhorse 2 (resized).JPG

    No complaints - these are solid and very well built. You can even use them to make a table - pretty cool.

    Rip Table (resized).JPG

    Time to rip some plywood

    TS 55 (resized).JPG
    Ripping 4x8 Sheets (resized).JPG
    Track saw (resized).JPG

    It's hard to beat Festool's TS 55 track saw.

    #156 2 years ago

    Now that I've ripped the 4x8 sheets down, they're much easier to handle on the table saw. Maybe after I finish the out-feed table I'll build an in-feed table - just a thought.

    The Tough Built sawhorse come in handy here as well:

    Out feed (resized).JPG

    Ron's design calls for 7" tall sides and cross braces. For dead nuts measurements you can't go wrong with Incra's rulers (Seriously, their rulers are the shit). I like my Woodpecker rulers, but I tend to gravitate to the Incra rulers when possible.

    Incra ruler (resized).JPG
    On the Money (resized).JPG

    Another must have accessory for the table saw is Jessem's Clear Cut TS Guides:

    Jessem (resized).JPG

    The wheels are pitched at a 5 degree angle, forcing the plywood into the saw's fence. These guides makes it so much easier to rip longer pieces of wood, especially when you're working by yourself.

    Everything is ripped, so that's it for today

    Table Parts (resized).JPG

    #157 2 years ago

    Love this thread. Any chance of sharing those bin labels for hardware? Great idea!

    #158 2 years ago
    Quoted from Shredso:

    Love this thread. Any chance of sharing those bin labels for hardware? Great idea!

    I can send you the word file if you want. All I did was cut and paste images from Fastenal's website and centered up some text underneath.

    #159 2 years ago
    Quoted from PinballMikeD:

    I can send you the word file if you want. All I did was cut and paste images from Fastenal's website and centered up some text underneath.

    Awesome. Email is shredso@gmail.com


    #160 2 years ago

    The Paulk Workbench utilizes large hole/slots on the side panels to access the bottom of the table top as shown below:

    Table Side Slots (resized).JPG

    The best way to consistently cut uniform holes is with a jig, so that's what we'll make next

    I ripped an extra 7 inch strip on the table saw to build my jig; this way the jig will be the same height as the table's side panels. Then I used my Festool MFT table and TS 55 to cross cut a 2 foot long piece of wood. Cross cuts are simple with the MFT table, just square the track to the fence and start cutting.

    Squaring Up Track (resized).JPG
    Cross Cutting Jig Panel (resized).JPG

    I decided to make my side panel slots 4 inches wide. After laying out my measurements, it was time to drill some holes:

    Hole Saw Setup (resized).JPG
    4" Holes (resized).JPG

    Finally, I used may track saw to connect the holes. I probably should have used a jigsaw, but what the hell..... A little chiseling and sanding... One slot cutting jig ready to go.

    Jig (resized).JPG

    #161 2 years ago

    Oh my god you cost me so much money. I haven't seen that Jessem guide yet, looks sweet.

    I have the same set of Incra T's. Also just picked up a Miter 1000SE used for $80, love it so far.

    Curious to see how you like the paulk bench. I'm building new kitchen cabinets this fall and may have to build one of those first.

    #162 2 years ago

    Oh yeah, are the MFT tables really worth the money? They look so shaky!

    #163 2 years ago

    If you build a Paulk table you won't need an MFT. Checkout Jessem's website or YouTube for demo videos of their guide systems - definitely worth the money.

    I'm happy to spend your money, that's cheaper than spending mine

    #164 2 years ago
    Quoted from PinballMikeD:

    If you build a Paulk table you won't need an MFT.

    It's not so much the table I like as the fence and track setup, but I suppose that can be replicated.

    I thought of making a paulk table but on a cabinet base on casters. Don't really need it to be portable. Not sure yet.

    1 week later
    #165 2 years ago

    Nothing like making repeatable cuts.... helps to keep things square

    Hey, that's what flip stops are for:
    IMG_2552 (resized).JPG

    Here's where Festool's MFT really shines:
    IMG_2553 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2554 (resized).JPG
    Now all my cross braces are exactly the same length

    Time to cutout some holes. To do this I'm using a 1/4" spiral bit, router and Porter Cable Template Guide Set:
    IMG_2565 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2564 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2569 (resized).JPG

    I realized pretty quickly that my template wasn't going to work, so I cut a new one out or 1/4" MDF. I did this because my router bit can only plunge down one inch and I'm building the table out of 3/4 birch. To attached my template I used carpet tape:
    IMG_2568 (resized).JPG

    Now it's time to cut.

    #166 2 years ago

    Here's a look at the router setup:

    IMG_2571 (resized).JPG

    I'm using a scrap piece of MDF (same thickness as my template) to keep the router level when cutting. It took four passes per hole, but I finally finish:

    IMG_2573 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2574 (resized).JPG

    That's enough fun for one day.

    IMG_2570 (resized).JPG

    1 week later
    #167 2 years ago

    With all the access holes routed out, it's time to drill the holes for the pocket screws. I highly recommend Kreg's K4 Jig System - worth every penny.

    Kreg K4 Jig (resized).JPG

    I built my table out of 3/4 plywood, so I just setup everything as indicated below:

    Vacuum Port (resized).JPG
    Drill Depth Set (resized).JPG

    Hook up the vacuum and you're ready to go. Blue painters tape for ghetto vac connection not included

    Drill Baby Drill (resized).JPG

    Once all your holes are drilled, refer to the screw selection table in the K4 user manual.

    Screw Selection (resized).JPG

    Also, it's always prudent to test your jig settings prior to drilling 100+ holes

    Sample Setup (resized).JPG

    #168 2 years ago

    Prior to assembly, I decided to clean up the access holes. I used an 1/8 inch round over bit in my router to remove any sharp edges.

    1:8 round over (resized).JPG

    Just set your plunge depth and the bearing guides the router - easy. Here's a before and after comparison:

    sharp edges (resized).JPG

    rounded edges (resized).JPG

    Much better right

    After a few hours of sanding it's time to dry fit the table. After everything is squared up and clamped in place, I used a pencil to mark all the corners with reference lines in order to help get everything in place quickly during the glue up. It's true - you can never have enough wood clamps

    dry fit (resized).JPG

    The glue up for this project was a pain in the ass. I used Titebond III glue, but this only you gives you about 10 minutes to get everything set before the glues starts to setup. Also, getting everything square (sides to top, sides to cross braces, cross braces to top) was arduous and time consuming, so have a rubber mallet ready. A second set of hands would have been handy, especially to cleanup any glue squeeze out - I hate unnecessary sanding work......

    Anyway, here's a look at one of the two tables after the glue up is complete:
    glue up (resized).JPG

    #169 2 years ago

    To ensure the finished table top edges would be flush with the side members, I purposely cut the table top larger than the supporting frame. This way I could use a flush trim bit in my router to ensure the top is perfectly mated to the sides:

    Flush trim bit (resized).JPG

    Again, the bearing on the bit guides the router.

    Over hang on edges (resized).JPG

    Overhang removed (resized).JPG


    Now it's time to attach the bottom panel. I wanted the bottom to be removable for future modifications - you know that's inevitabling going to happen Here are two cheap tools that are must haves in my shop:

    Center Hole Punch:
    Center Hole Punch (resized).JPG

    Countersink Bits:
    Counter sink bit (resized).JPG

    These really make drilling repeatable countersink holes a breeze.
    IMG_2628 (resized).JPG

    After an hour of sanding and routing the bottom edges (just like the top), the table is now finished with the exception of the bench top holes:

    Finished table (resized).JPG

    And it's even square, for the most part

    Square (resized).JPG

    #170 2 years ago

    Looks great. The roundovers on the holes are a really nice touch.

    #171 2 years ago

    That thing is badass....I love the attention to detail but I would be afraid to "work" on that workbench. That looks like cabinet grade 3/4 red Oak Plywood, I can see using that for the top layer but man that is expensive stuff to use as bracing!

    #172 2 years ago
    Quoted from radium:

    Looks great. The roundovers on the holes are a really nice touch.

    Thanks, I'm working my way to the LR32 review

    Quoted from jamieflowers:

    That thing is badass....I love the attention to detail but I would be afraid to "work" on that workbench. That looks like cabinet grade 3/4 red Oak Plywood, I can see using that for the top layer but man that is expensive stuff to use as bracing!

    I'm either going to laminate the top or spray several coats of polyurethane on it. I used birch, but the cost is roughly the same as oak - $50 per 4x8 sheet. I've got $200 in the wood, but this baby should last a lifetime

    #173 2 years ago

    Hey Mike, I got the same LED lights for my sunroom/game room (yes, the games are out of the garage). I got them in part because they claim to be dim-able. I got the correct dimming switch, however, I have had a few people look at it and couldn't figure out how to make it work. Do you have a dimmer on yours?

    Great work on the garage, looks great!!

    #174 2 years ago

    I tried a dimmer, but the lights flickered erratically. I'm just using a standard on/off switch now. Congrats on the game room.

    1 week later
    #175 2 years ago

    Now that the table top is complete, it's time to build a mobile base for it to sit on.

    I'm going to use standard yellow pine 2x4s for the frame as shown below:

    IMG_2637 (resized).JPG

    The problem with 2x4s is that they are almost always twisted and bowed. This of course makes it hard to build anything square Hence, the need for a jointer and planner.

    IMG_2646 (resized).JPG

    It's standard practice to mill two adjacent sides of a board on your jointer. I use a pencil to markup the faces I'm milling; then I run them wood across the jointer until the pencil lines are gone. This ensures I'm square on two sides.

    IMG_2645 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2643 (resized).JPG

    Then I use my planner to attach the other sides of the boards, getting them flat and milled down to a uniform finished thickness. In this case I milled the 2x4s (which are really 1.75x3.75 inches) down to 1.25x3.25 - yes, that's a lot of wood to remove

    IMG_2652 (resized).JPG

    30+ gallons to be exact.

    #176 2 years ago

    With the wood milled down, now it's time to cut everything to length.

    IMG_2653 (resized).JPG

    I hate dust and the miter saw is the worst dust maker in my shop. However, I think I might have a solution, but that's another project:

    IMG_2655 (resized).JPG

    Nice. Square. Level. What could possibly go wrong

    IMG_2656 (resized).JPG

    #177 2 years ago

    Here's a cool clamp that every woodworker should own:

    IMG_2659 (resized).JPG

    It makes pocket hole assembly a breeze - glue, clamp and drill

    IMG_2660 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2658 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2663 (resized).JPG

    Now it's time to build some legs. I decided to double down on the 2x4s and make L shaped legs; this design is extremely strong and eliminates any concerns of racking. Again, I used glue and pocket screws. Here's another handy clamp to own:

    IMG_2661 (resized).JPG

    Parallel clamps are a bit pricey, but man are they a pleasure to work with.

    To install the legs I used 2" #8 screws - just determine your screws locations, drill your countersink pilot holes, glue and screw.

    IMG_2662 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2666 (resized).JPG

    Here's a look at test fit for the top frame. One leg ended up being 1/32" out, but I can live with that

    #178 2 years ago

    Time to build the floor for the table's mobile base. To do this I just flipped the frame upside down and traced out the table on a sheet of 3/4" plywood.

    IMG_2676 (resized).JPG

    Setup the table saw and it's time to rip

    IMG_2687 (resized).JPG

    A digital angle finder is always a nice gizmo to have in the tool box.

    I used to hate jigsaws, but the Festool Carvex is starting to make me change my mind. If you're in the market for a jigsaw, get this one. It pulses LEDs, like a strobe light, which makes the blade look like it isn't moving - very cool.

    IMG_2683 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2684 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2685 (resized).JPG

    Ok, that's enough fun for one day.

    #179 2 years ago

    One of the down sides to a garage workshop is the fact that the floor isn't level. Home builders have to make sure that water drains towards the garage door, which is great - just not for leveling a garage workshop table

    So, before I get too much further I need to overcome the challenges associated with my sloped garage floor. To address this issue, I decided to build some pinball legs for my table.

    These are 10" long legs made from 2"x2"x1/8" carbon steel angle.

    IMG_2696 (resized).JPG

    I drilled 4 holes on each side, staggering the hole locations by one inch.

    IMG_2697 (resized).JPG

    Square unistrut washers with 3/8" welded nuts are used for the base plates.

    IMG_2699 (resized).JPG

    A little welding and sand blasting - presto.....

    IMG_2700 (resized).JPG

    For shits and giggles I had the legs power coated

    IMG_2701 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2702 (resized).JPG

    Here's a finished leg installed:

    IMG_2705 (resized).JPG

    I used four 1.75" 8-32 through bolts with nylon locknuts and four 1" #6 screws to attach each leg. Overkill? Probably, but I know the legs are solid.

    #180 2 years ago

    I love Festool's systainer system, but it seems like I always need the tool in the bottom of the stack. Plus, as nice as Festool's system is, all those systainers take up a ton of space.

    Floor space is a commodity in any shop, so I'm going to build a sliding draw system to accommodate my most commonly used tools (router, track saw, etc.) I can easily fit 3 systainers per row as shown below:

    IMG_2688 (resized).JPG

    Now I can start cutting the wood for my cabinets.

    Here are some assembly pics:

    IMG_2689 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2690 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2695 (resized).JPG

    God bless parallel clamps

    Again, I went with pocket screws - just a shop table right....

    With everything glued and screwed in place, I decided to paint the inside cabinet areas grey. I went with latex paint, just used a foam roller. I might spray the final coat for practice, but that's overkill as the foam rollers did a great job.

    Now it's time to build the drawers. Here's a finished prototype:

    IMG_2718 (resized).JPG

    I used soft close drawer slides - love those things. One down, 7 more to go.....

    IMG_2720 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2721 (resized).JPG

    1 week later
    #181 2 years ago

    I finally got all the drawers built and installed.

    Here's a look at the table as it sits today:

    IMG_2722 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2723 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2724 (resized).JPG

    It's nice not having systainers all over the floor

    I still need to get everything level, then I can drill all the clamping holes in the top like Festool's MFT. There's still quite a bit of additional work to do, but the table is usable as it is. Now I can take a break for this project and moving on to some pinball cabinets

    3 weeks later
    #182 2 years ago

    Here's a look at the miter saw table I started working on:

    IMG_2732 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2733 (resized).JPG

    I still have a ton of work to do (fence system, mobile base, etc.), but it's getting there I'll post more pics once it's finished.

    1 week later
    #183 2 years ago

    Miter saw table update:

    I got the Kreg fence installed this week. I routed out a 1/4" dado for the fence to fit perfectly square, ensuring proper alligement on both sides of the saw.

    IMG_2758 (resized).JPG
    IMG_2755 (resized).JPG

    Now I need to figure out how to build the base for the saw itself. I'm thinking a pullout draw would be cool. Any ideas?

    #184 2 years ago

    Why don't you make a base the same as your work bench?

    #185 2 years ago

    I'll do something similar, I was referring to the base for the actual saw as shown below. I need to get it raised up to the height of the wings.

    image (resized).jpeg

    #186 2 years ago

    If you have a thicknesser/planer, machine some hardwood to the exact thickness required to make it level. Then bolt the saw down through the provided holes on top of the hardwood.

    2 months later
    #187 1 year ago

    Work has been brutal the last few months, but I did manage to make some progress on the miter saw table

    Here's a look at the finished sliding support table the saw sits on:
    IMG_2782 (resized).JPG

    The table is locked into place using 2 tee-nuts and adjustment knobs:
    IMG_2783 (resized).JPG

    Miter saws are big time dust makers, so I'm going to build a dust shroud for dust containment. I want the shroud to be removable, so I routed some dados and added some Kreg track to each side of the saw's support table:
    IMG_2781 (resized).JPG

    Like everything else in my shop, I made the table moble:
    IMG_2877 (resized).JPG

    Here's a look at the Kreg stop system (love it):
    IMG_2878 (resized).JPG

    I still need to build some cabinets or storage bins below the saw, but at least I have a usable setup now. I'll post some more pics once everything is complete. I'm going to build a fence with hold down clamps, a zero clearance insert and a dust shroud as previously mentioned. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the setup. It will make back boxes a breeze.

    IMG_2879 (resized).JPG

    1 month later
    #188 1 year ago

    I finished up a nice mobile wood storage rack this week.

    IMG_2922 (resized).JPG

    This beauty is 3'x7' and weighs 200+ pounds unloaded. Now I have somewhere to store all those scrap pieces that are scattered around the shop Plus, this cart has room to store up to 10 full 4'x8' 3/4" sheets of plywood.

    IMG_2946 (resized).JPG

    4 months later
    #189 1 year ago

    Birthdays = new toys

    This was delivered yesterday:
    IMG_0580 (resized).jpg

    Been shopping for a bandsaw for awhile, decided on the Laguna 18 bx:
    IMG_0583 (resized).jpg

    This is about as far as I can get without a little lifting help. In the meantime I can enjoy looking at the bandsaw's monster fence
    IMG_0582 (resized).jpg

    I'll post more info on this guy once it's assembled.

    #190 1 year ago

    All assembled:
    IMG_0585 (resized).jpg

    Looking forward to testing everything out, just need to run a 220V circuit first

    Like everything else in my shop, I purchased the mobility kit. This way I can rearrange tools in the future, which always happens as new additions are brought into the workshop.

    IMG_0590 (resized).jpg

    This saw features a 3HP 220V motor, so resawing should be a breeze. The main reason I went with the 18bx over the 14bx was the increased 16" vs 12" resaw capacity. That and the upsized motor

    IMG_0588 (resized).jpg

    The table is nice and well constructed. It has about 16 inches of throat with the fence installed, which is very nice. The fence is a nice extruded piece of aluminum. It can be mounted two different ways to accommodate thicker or thinner pieces of material. As shown below, the fence sits a little over 7 inches above the table. I also, like the cool stop assembly that mounts to the fence.

    IMG_0587 (resized).jpg

    Overall, I'm impressed with the build quality. It would have been nice if the saw had come with a blade out of the box - no big deal though. Looking forward to ripping some rails for Medusa once I get this up and running

    #191 1 year ago

    Wow very nice. My buddy has the smaller model and loves it. That fence is a beast!

    New toys are fun. I just bought the Festool TS55REQ track saw. Haven't tried it out yet but I'll be building new kitchen cabs soon with it.

    #192 1 year ago
    Quoted from radium:

    Wow very nice. My buddy has the smaller model and loves it. That fence is a beast!
    New toys are fun. I just bought the Festool TS55REQ track saw. Haven't tried it out yet but I'll be building new kitchen cabs soon with it.

    Great saw. I’d like to get the battery powered one. Best to just avoid Festool’s website, save more money that way.

    #193 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinballMikeD:

    Great saw. I’d like to get the battery powered one. Best to just avoid Festool’s website, save more money that way.

    No kidding. I first bought the domino joiner and a systainer of tenons, then I had to have the rotex... then I’ll stop, yeah. Well now I want every tool I buy to come in a systainer!

    2 months later
    #194 1 year ago
    Quoted from Drewscruis:

    do you ever use any of your tools? They are way to clean/dust free to have ever been used. plus the vice not being bolted down make me question the use.

    Thinking of you today as I finally bolted my vice to the table.

    IMG_0889 (resized).jpg

    Only took me 2 years, but I final had a reason to use it

    IMG_0888 (resized).jpg

    #195 1 year ago

    Finally getting the TV installed

    IMG_0899 (resized).jpg
    IMG_0901 (resized).jpg

    Built a mounting plate to span the studs and cut holes out for power and HDMI wiring. Even beveled the edges and sealed it

    IMG_0903 (resized).jpg
    IMG_0904 (resized).jpg

    Just need to get this wall box in for the HDMI cable and run the wire.

    IMG_0905 (resized).jpg

    #196 1 year ago

    Love the t-shaped neutral 20amp duplex receptacle. I would have thought you'd have gotten stainless steel cover plates and powder coated them.... Just sayin'

    So jelly

    #197 1 year ago

    Can always change the receptacle covers

    #198 1 year ago

    Built a custom zero clearance insert and fence for my miter saw.

    IMG_0929 (resized).jpg

    The factory insert was terrible, no wood backing for 1/4" on each side of the blade.

    IMG_0928 (resized).jpg

    The customer insert makes every cut smooth. Now I just need to tackle the dust collection

    1 week later
    #199 1 year ago

    The miter saw is a great tool for cross cutting as it's quick and easy to use. The problem is that your workshop will be covered in dust after just a handful of cuts. I hate dust, can't sanded it. That's why I pony up the $$ for Festool equipment, but $1,500 for a miter saw (Kapex) just seems crazy. Plus, the dust colletion isn't 4x better on the Kapex to justify the 4x price difference.

    So, my choices are:

    (1) Roll the miter saw out into the drive way when I want to use it..... in 95F heat with 100% Florida humidity = hell no!
    (2) Fix the dust issue
    (3) Don't use the miter saw

    Sadly, Option #3 is usually what ends up happening. I end up using my track saw instead of the miter saw, because that air conditioned garage is oh so nice

    After doing a bunch of research, I decided to fabricate a custom dust boot for my saw. I'm not a physicist, but I do know two things cannot occupy the same space at the same time, so this thing has to go:

    IMG_0934 (resized).jpg
    IMG_0935 (resized).jpg

    You gotta love your Dremel right

    Here's my protoype:

    IMG_0940 (resized).jpg

    To be clear, I rarely ever make anything other than straight cuts with my miter saw, so probably should just call it a chop saw. However, I did design a boot that would allow be to cut on any angle, just have to remove the zero clearance fence as needed.

    This made a big improvement, but still not 100% happy with it.

    So, here's my second attempt:

    IMG_0945 (resized).jpg
    IMG_0948 (resized).jpg
    IMG_0947 (resized).jpg
    IMG_0958 (resized).jpg

    This looked great, but was a total bust - dust was spraying all over the place - not sure why the intake angle was exactly the same. Well, it only took a few hours to make

    Ok, this time I'm going big.....

    It's a work in progress, but I'm thinking two 4" dust ports should do the trick

    IMG_0956 (resized).jpg
    IMG_0957 (resized).jpg

    I'll post and update once it's done. Fingers crossed. This won't address angled cuts, but like I said I rarely cut on angles with the chop saw.

    #200 1 year ago

    Many of the Makers I watch on YouTube make miter saw stations that enclose the back half of the miter saw itself in a box, basically giving the saw enough room to come down (they have to move panels to do heavily angled cuts), and use the whole back box as part of the dust vacuum system.

    The miter saw stations tend to include movable stop block rail systems, stuck on rulers, lots of surface to rest the piece being cut on, and storage.

    Look on YouTube for Jay Bates and Jackman Works, both of them have built miter stations on their channels.

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