Plunger lane microswitch problem - SOLVED!

OP
Quoted from Rom:
The microswitch is still clicking when I press it down. Does this mean the microswitch itself is still ok but the problem lies within a cable?

No it does not. Check the microswitch with a DMM to confirm if it's working. If it's good then look for a broken wire/diode on the switch or another switch in the same row or column. You can narrow down whether it's a row or column problem by checking continuity from the switch in question to another switch with the same color wire (one switch for the row and one switch for the column). Column wire will be grn-xxx and row wire wht-xxx.

A switch matrix diagram would really help, but I'm not sure where you could get one. The stern site doesn't seem to have the manual for 24.

Are all the other switches working?

#4 9 years ago

???

Rom

Inactive member

A big thank you already for the help. I really appreciate it.

@terryb: Yes, this is the ONLY non working switch. All the others work just fine. And the wire or diode doesn't look broken. But I also have to admit that I do not know how a broken diode looks like.

I assume that for this plunger lane switch the matrix could be the same as on Stern Spiderman (or any other Stern from this area) because the plunger lane switch is always at the same spot and also the numbers (switch number 23) and the functionality are the same?

Sorry to ask this but .... what is a DMM?

#5 9 years ago

TAB

terryb

Inactive member

DMM = digital multimeter.

The switches are daisy-chained together. One chain for the row and one for the column. The wire could be broken on the switch before the plunger switch. The other switch would still work, but the plunger wouldn't.

#6 9 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Rom:
Sorry to ask this but .... what is a DMM

Digital mulit meter. Lots available in all price ranges. YouTube is littered with short hot to use videos.

First check if switch works, then continuity of wiring from switch to board.

Your game is wired in a switch matrix, rows and columns. Switches have wires similar to others, so a broken wire at one spot kills those after it.

LTG : )™

#7 9 years ago

???

Rom

Inactive member

I will have to get myself a multimeter and report back after testing.
Thanks a lot. I can see clearer now.

#8 9 years ago

???

Rom

Inactive member

Just for me to know…is this supposed to look like this? Does it look ok soldering wise?

plungerlaneswitchA.jpgplungerlaneswitchB.jpg

#9 9 years ago

IGD

ozuba

Pinside+ Frequent

11y 46,700 269

I had a similar issue on an EATPM...my non-working switch ended up being last in the chain (all others worked). Cause ended up being the soldered connection to the previous component had come undone. If you don't have a DMM yet, and the switch is clicking, I would at least try following the wires to their next (previous) component & ensuring they are solidly connected.

#10 9 years ago

???

Rom

Inactive member

Does this mean that it is the last one on the Daisy-chain? (only ONE cable soldered)

I tested every switch and the plunger lane switch uses GREEN-BROWN. The others that use GREEN-BROWN are the targets on the left and the spinner. All of these are working.
But only one target (closest to the plunger lane but on the other side) has only ONE GREEN-BROWN wire soldered to it. Is that normal (end of daisy-chain) or have I found the issue.
Can't seem to find a loose cable though.

Here is a pic of the target with only one green-brown soldered.only1greenbrown.jpg

#11 9 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Rom:
Just for me to know…is this supposed to look like this? Does it look ok soldering wise?

Not real good but it is soldered right.

LTG : )™

#12 9 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Rom:
Can't seem to find a loose cable though.

That is the point where you need a meter and check continuity of each wire from the switch to the board in the head.

After you checked if the switch is good.

LTG : )™

#13 9 years ago

MOZ

StevenP

Inactive member

14y 30,900 3,781

Quoted from terryb:
DMM = digital multimeter.
The switches are daisy-chained together. One chain for the row and one for the column. The wire could be broken on the switch before the plunger switch. The other switch would still work, but the plunger wouldn't.

A regular analog multimeter would work just as well to check continuity!

#14 9 years ago

???

Rom

Inactive member

Just ordered a multimeter at amazon. I should have it in 2 days. I'll report back when I have it. Should need it more often in the future anyway when I read all the threads here.

But my theory with the one target having soldered only one green-brown cable being the end of the daisy chain…is that correct?

#15 9 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Rom:
But my theory with the one target having soldered only one green-brown cable being the end of the daisy chain…is that correct?

Forget theory. Some switches get two wires, some one. Depends where they are on the switch matrix.

LTG : )™

#16 9 years ago

TAB

terryb

Inactive member

OP
Quoted from Rom:
But my theory with the one target having soldered only one green-brown cable being the end of the daisy chain…is that correct?

Yes the last switch in the daisy-chain will only have one wire. This does not necessarily correlate to the last one on the switch matrix diagram. The wires were run in the shortest route rather than to match the picture.

If you find only one switch with one wire then you know a wire hasn't come off a switch. If you find two switches with only one wire then one of the two is your problem.

Your issue could also be with the white-purple wire (or the switch itself).

#17 9 years ago

???

Rom

Inactive member

So I got myself a nice little multimeter (test boy pocket). So now what do I do?
-I turn the power of the machine on and open the coin door. (correct ?)
-I put my multimeter to continuity test. (correct ?)

-But now where do I trigger with the red and black ends of the multimeter? The switch matrix for 24 is not available any more. I have the manual but there is no switch matrix included. And STERN doesn't have it any more for download.

Please help an imbecile amateur. ))

#18 9 years ago

TAB

terryb

Inactive member

Plenty of youtube videos that will help you figure out the multimeter.

All tests with power off. Put the meter in diode/continuity mode and touch the two leads together. That's what a short (or continuity) looks like. Now put one lead on each side of the switch. Close the switch manually and see if it registers on the meter.

If the switch is good then you need to check the grn-brn wire and the wht-vio wire. Put one lead on the grn-brn wire at the problem switch. Find another switch with a grn-brn wire (this is where the switch matrix would make things easier). Put the other lead there and see if you have continuity.

Then apply the same concept to the wht-vio wire.

#19 9 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Rom:
So now what do I do?

Youtube is littered with short how to videos.

OP
Quoted from Rom:
I turn the power of the machine on and open the coin door.

NO. Power off.

One probe from the switch the other probe to the board in the head. Check both wires one at a time.

OP
Quoted from Rom:
I put my multimeter to continuity test.

You might sit at a table and learn some basic electronics. Measure power to a battery, use ohms to check continuity of a light bulb or wire.

OP
Quoted from Rom:
Please help an imbecile amateur.

You are no such thing. You are willing to learn.

Blowing stuff up would make you that.

LTG : )™

#20 9 years ago

???

Rom

Inactive member

OK. Found the issue. ))
I know now how to use my multimeter and continuity from both wires of the non-working switch are good to the soundboard.
I found out that the issue is a broken solder on one side of the wire that goes through the diode. No contact to one side. When I push the wire back to make contact to the solder the switch works.
So next steps for me are:
-buy solder equipment
-learn how to solder
-solder that wire
I'll get there someday. ))

Thanks to everyone and especially to LTG who helped me A LOT here!!! It is incredible how much help you get around here immediately. I thank you very much.
Best regards,
Rom

#21 9 years ago

???

Rom

Inactive member

Here is the broken diode wire that caused the issue.

broken diode wire.jpg

#22 9 years ago

MJS

schudel5

Pinside member

20y 166K 6,390 27

OP
Quoted from Rom:
Here is the broken diode wire that caused the issue.

Yep. About 1 second with a hot soldering iron and it will reflow itself onto the diode and you should be good to go. It's a simple repair, but this seems like your first one. We've all been there and this should give you confidence to tackle the next obstacle. Before you know it, you'll be fixing other peoples machines with reset issues...good luck!

#23 9 years ago

???

Rom

Inactive member