Please Help with Addams family solenoid issue

F112 on the driver board good ?

50V or higher on the 50V test point on the driver board ?

LTG : )

#4 2 years ago

CML

Dr-Hex

Pinside member

Quoted from LTG:
F112 on the driver board good ?
50V or higher on the 50V test point on the driver board ?
LTG : )

Hey so rechecked f112 -pulled from machine and has continuity across it
Tp 1 13.4
Tp2 4.8
Tp3= 11.8
Tp6 = 67.8
Tp7 = 20
Tp8 = 16.2

#5 2 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

If you check coil lugs to ground is there voltage ? If so then suspect the ribbon cable between cpu and driver board.

No power at coil lugs - then check if it's leaving the driver board.

LTG : )

#6 2 years ago

CML

Dr-Hex

Pinside member

So had a chance to break out the voltage meter again. Near as I can tell I have no voltage to the solenoids other then the flippers which are getting 59 V and work fine. I turned the tests menu to repeat of the solenoids and held the meter to the lugs while the test was running and got no change. Where would I look next to try and figure out why it isn’t getting off the board? And as a side question why would the flippers work and get power if nothing else is?

#7 2 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Dr-Hex:
And as a side question why would the flippers work and get power if nothing else is?

They are getting power from a different place.

LTG : )

#8 2 years ago

CML

Dr-Hex

Pinside member

Any suggestions why the solenoids power wouldn’t be leaving the board or what to check next?
And thank you for your help

#9 2 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Dr-Hex:
Any suggestions why the solenoids power wouldn’t be leaving the board or what to check next?

I'm sorry no. The testing it would require I'm not sure can be done in the game. I'd send the board to ChrisHibler who has equipment to do this.

LTG : )

#10 2 years ago

TOX

ChrisHibler

TAF is a FlipTronics I game.
It has a special "50V flipper power supply" on a small board in the head.
All other coil power comes from the power/driver board, J107, pins 1, 2, and 3.
Just below J107 is a row of 5 fuses. All of them are 3ASB fuses. The two left most fuses protect the flipper circuit. The three rightmost fuses are for high power, low power, and continuous power coils.

Ensure that the three wires that are pressed into J107/1-3 have not come out.
Ensure that J107 is plugged in.
Post a pic of the upper part of the power/driver board.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#11 2 years ago

???

pins4u

Pinside apprentice

Gaborone

3y 34,400 1,037

OP
Quoted from Dr-Hex:
So had a chance to break out the voltage meter again. Near as I can tell I have no voltage to the solenoids other then the flippers which are getting 59 V and work fine. I turned the tests menu to repeat of the solenoids and held the meter to the lugs while the test was running and got no change. Where would I look next to try and figure out why it isn’t getting off the board? And as a side question why would the flippers work and get power if nothing else is?

Just so you are aware - all coils have the full 50~70VDC applied to them at all times, even game over. No need to run any menu tests to check for this voltage BUT make sure the coin door switch is closed (if your game has one).

Coils have the voltage applied on one side ALL the time. The driver board takes the other side of the coil to ground to make the solenoid activate.

#12 2 years ago

CML

Dr-Hex

Pinside member

Hey Chris thank you for the help. J107 looks plugged, resat it without change. Please let me know if these pictures show you what you need to see or if you need different views.

image (resized).jpg

#13 2 years ago

TOX

ChrisHibler

Looks good.
Meter on DC.
We need to measure for power at the coil.
Game on.
Balls out.
PF vertical.
Black on side rail.
Red on coil solder tab of (say) slingshot.
Both tabs should read about 70VDC.
LMK.
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

#14 2 years ago

CML

Dr-Hex

Pinside member

Quoted from ChrisHibler:
Looks good.
Meter on DC.
We need to measure for power at the coil.
Game on.
Balls out.
PF vertical.
Black on side rail.
Red on coil solder tab of (say) slingshot.
Both tabs should read about 70VDC.
LMK.
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

So with the black to ground I get a reading of 67.2 V at the sling shot on the brown/violet lug and 68V on the other violet/ red lug (daisy chained one)
Repeating on the other sling shows 68.4 volts.

#15 2 years ago

CML

Dr-Hex

Pinside member

Able to get similar readings off the other solenoids as well. Should mention I have one magnet that is disconnected (left) as it would blow the inline fuse that was there, but that had been happening since I got the game long ago and hasn’t changed)

#16 2 years ago

TOX

ChrisHibler

With power at the coil lugs, the only thing left is for that power to find ground via the solid state switch (transistor) on the driver board.

I can see that C2 was changed out in the past.
The probable reason for that was that it leaked.
I'm wondering if the corrosion from that leaky cap has severed one or more very fine traces just below it. Those traces send the enable signals for everything.

Get a bright light and check that out.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#17 2 years ago

CML

Dr-Hex

Pinside member

I think this was replaced by rob at lock when lit but I don’t think it leaked. It tested bad when I sent it to him. This is the closet picture I could get. I don’t see any obvious breaks in the traces that I can see but I don’t know much about boards.....
Unless that small mark on the top one is a break?

image (resized).jpg

#18 2 years ago

CML

Dr-Hex

Pinside member

And why would it go now without a new leak?

#19 2 years ago

???

pins4u

Pinside apprentice

Gaborone

3y 34,400 1,037

OP
Quoted from Dr-Hex:
And why would it go now without a new leak?

Corrosion is pretty insidious! A cap or battery can leak today and the corrosion can lurk around slowly eating away at the copper tracks UNDER the green surface. It can finally gobble through super fine tracks on boards like this is weeks/months or even years later.

The tracks under the cap look a bit sus TBH....

sus (resized).png

#20 2 years ago

BTF

PinballManiac40

Pinside+ Frequent

14y 234K 17,632 104

Everything to the left of C2 needs attention along with trace(s) fixed as pins4u shows in his picture. You can easily see the green corrosion on C12 and R205 after zooming in on the area.

A leaky capacitor is just as bad as battery corrosion. Both can spread through small circuit traces and inside parts just like cancer.
pasted_image (resized).png

#21 2 years ago

BTF

PinballManiac40

Pinside+ Frequent

14y 234K 17,632 104

The top trace needs to be continuity tested to see if it is an issue that pins4u alludes too.

2 other possible reasons the solenoids may not be getting there signals to fire them. Try one of these at a time to see if you can narrow down the issue, assuming the top trace is not the current problem.

1. Try pressing on the big U9 square ASIC chip on the MPU board. You'll hear some crunching sounds as it is pressed in.
2. I never had any good luck with the ribbon cables with the strain relief built in. It is as if the male board header pins are not long enough to make good contact within the pins of that type ribbon cable. So replace the short ribbon cable between MPU and driver board with one of the original type without the strain relief.
pasted_image (resized).png

#22 2 years ago

TOX

ChrisHibler