Thanks Zaza. I took a look at the WPC schematic manual (after downloading it this morning) and not the wiring diagram in the game specific manual and your diagram now makes sense. If I understand correctly, the normal solenoid circuits (connectors J127 and J130) are already wired with that diode on the 50V side. The flash-lamp circuit (connector J122) has optional diodes that can be inserted into the circuit by inserting wires in pins 5,6,8 and 9 depending on the drive transistor. It looks like the function of this diode is like the ones across the flipper lugs but instead of being on the solenoid are on the PCB.

Expiring minds want to know and are never too old to learn.

That is totally correct !!

in addition, J126 is also equipped with 4 free diodes on pin 10-13, those 4 are connected to J125 pin 6-9 and J126 pin 5-8 but not in a logical order.

amazon has some great beginner prjoects,plus the kids love them after i build them! Win,Win situation!

From my T2 restore here is how the wiring looks on the actual coil.

Its the same as in zazas awesome diagram.

8.jpg

Hi Anthony, as I mentioned in my email, that's your GI input, and yes it's completely repairable to original.

Your damaged board caused the driver to lock on, frying the coil. Even if the driver and coil were both replaced with new, the damage to the board would have taken things out again. As I mentioned, the carbon scoring needs to be dealt with.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

Hey there notice you're from Anchorage, AK...before you send out that board send me a PM I might know someone who can help fix it locally.

Yep. I did that many times. I turned many math coprocessors on too (changed sx chip into a dx chip). Rear window defogger repair liquid could be used also. Sometimes lead pencils were funky if you had the wrong kind on hand (I think you needed #2, cant remember for sure).

Def. Agree o.p. can learn here with lower end tools. I did with my bywatch. It was fried in multiple areas. I soldered in many new driver transistors and pre drivers. Made mistakes but just got back in there and kept trying. 3rd or 4th try and it came back to life! Still playing it 4 1/2 years later. Go for it op!