You need to use a bridge rectifier to convert A/C to D/C and a dropping resistor to bring down the voltage to a useable level. Not to hard to do but you need to mount it somehow with it shorting out any thing else under the playfield.
I'd run a bridge rectifier... and a 3.3V LDO; to drop 6.3V to 3.3V regardless of current.
A resistor would work; but only if your sure the current doesn't change over time... or temperature.
Quoted from GRUMPY:100 dollar board to replace a dollars worth of parts.
GI Buddy is a 15$ board assembled or free design for assembly
GI buddy is for the voltage range of 5VDC to 60VDC.
For 3.3V, just use a bridge rectifier and an LM317 regulator,
Resistors to adjust LM317 for 3.3VDC: R1=240 ohms, R2=394 ohms. http://www.reuk.co.uk/LM317-Voltage-Calculator.htm
Mount the parts on a small breadboard like this:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/pc-2/solderable-perf-board/1.html
Easy and inexpensive
Quoted from wayout440:GI buddy is for the voltage range of 5VDC to 60VDC.
For 3.3V, just use a bridge rectifier and an LM317 regulator,
Resistors to adjust LM317 for 3.3VDC: R1=240 ohms, R2=394 ohms. http://www.reuk.co.uk/LM317-Voltage-Calculator.htm
Mount the parts on a small breadboard like this:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/pc-2/solderable-perf-board/1.html
Easy and inexpensive
thanks! what kind of bridge rectifier do I need? do I need to be on the nose with my voltages or do I just get one that rated to handle a specific voltage? If any old BR will do, I actually have a spare bridge rectifier on hand with one bad leg (I think it was +) can I use the (-) leg on that one? It seems too beefy to me (its a MB354 ). I'll wait for help before proceeding.
Goto radio shack and get a bridge rectifier and a Vreg to save your sanity.
Model: 2760268
http://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-1-5a-400v-bridge-rectifier/2760268.html
Model: LM317T
Catalog #: 2761778
http://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-adjustable-voltage-regulator-lm317t/2761778.html
Quoted from bimm25i:thanks! what kind of bridge rectifier do I need? do I need to be on the nose with my voltages or do I just get one that rated to handle a specific voltage? If any old BR will do, I actually have a spare bridge rectifier on hand with one bad leg (I think it was +) can I use the (-) leg on that one? It seems too beefy to me (its a MB354 ). I'll wait for help before proceeding.
You can't use a defective bridge.
Ratings for bridges are more concerned about maximum voltage and power handling, so while you can use just about any for this small circuit requirements, you still can't use a defective one. Zitt pointed out one in his post above. Just get a new bridge for a couple bucks.
or.. just plug a 3V wall wart into the service outlet
random example - ebay.com link: itm
another random example - ebay.com link: itm
Quoted from wiredoug:or.. just plug a 3V wall wart into the service outlet
random example - ebay.com link
another random example - ebay.com link
Then its has power all the time!
Quoted from wiredoug:sure does! Buts its cheaper / easier and safer. Anyway nothing says christmas ornament like leaving it running all the time... Turn machine off at wall if required.
How it it cheaper than 3 dollars worth of parts which are pretty easy to install so to have a mod that shuts off with the machine power rather than a wall wart staying powered up all the time? Seems like the OP has a pretty good grip on the install and fundamentals so I think he is going the right route. If he seemed incompetent then your solution would probably be best. 
Quoted from bimm25i:what do I do at 1, 2 and 3?
1 - Goes to + on ornament
2 - Goes to - on ornament
3 - Goes to - on bridge rectifier
Quoted from msj2222:Then its has power all the time!
If you wanted to go the route of buying a ready made wall wart, then I would suggest installing a service outlet after the game power switch. I did this to provide AC power to my F-14 Tomcat's powered subwoofer so that I would not have to unplug the game when I was done using it.
You can move the wire on the service outlet that's already there to the switched side. Then the outlet will come on when you turn on the power switch. That's how I power a 12volt P/S for my under cabinet lights.
... you may need a cap on the input as you've got pulsed DC comming in from the Diode bridge.
No; these regs don't get fried from soldering. Assuming you didn't hook it up wrong and power it up; it should be fine. 6.3VAC comming in. 3.3 going out right?
Did you try swapping the connection at the ornament? Is this hallmark or something else?
Did you measure the voltages with a meter?
https://www.etsy.com/listing/173091869/flux-capacitor-ornament-from-back-to-the?ref=market
its this ornament ^
I replaced the LED's with these SMDs and it made it a lot brighter/thinner ^
it still works on a CR2025 battery after replacing the LED's
I didn't check voltages because I didn't solder it in place and I was out of hands to run a meter. I am assuming the new parts from Radio Shack were good, but I guess its always a numbers game. I'll have to solder the thing in place and check the voltage at the battery connector. I'm using about 6" one way of 20ga from the 555 socket and 8" of 22ga going to the ornament, I cant believe Id be dropping .3V over such short runs, could I?
I think you've got something about the capacitor though, and I think I have some spares lying around, what sort of farad amount do I need to shoot for?
I had a 50V 47uf, put it in place, the meter showed 1.6 VDC bridging the battery contact pads on the ornament
could I put another in parallel? I have another one
No. What does the AC measure on the contact pads of the ornament?
In theory; if your only seeing 1.6VDC; then the rest must be AC.
I moved the 2 parallel 47uf capacitors from directly between the VR and ornament + battery pad to between the bridge rectifier and the V in on the VR. the circuit is putting out 1.29VDC on the contact pads.
it reads 1.29 AC as well on the battery pads.
the 22 ga wire powering the ornament is actually about 16 inches long. Could I just be voltage dropping by 50% maybe?
Sounds like something's off on the vreg side.
Either you've wired it incorrectly - or the Vreg is bad.
so I bought one of these > ebay.com link: itm
My plan is to hook it up after the BR. Good idea or Bad idea?
Quoted from bimm25i:so I bought one of these > ebay.com link
My plan is to hook it up after the BR. Good idea or Bad idea?
You still should filter that DC output after the bridge. The regulators you are using expect a flat DC input and you are feeding pulsed DC out of the full wave bridge. I would probably use a 1500uf or larger cap with a minimum 15WVDC.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/please-help-running-3vdc-ornament-from-555-socket and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Central Valley & Donner Summit, CA
Melbourne
