(Topic ID: 285596)

Please Help! No scoring display in escape from the lost world

By Foxxstone_80

3 years ago


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    #1 3 years ago

    Hi everyone. I Recently bought a 1987 Bally Escape from the lost world. It's my second pinball machine. The game worked great for about a week until all the scoring displays abruptly quit working. I found the FU2 fuse on the high voltage board was blown, (3/4 amp 250v fast blow) I replaced the fuse and the scoring displays all worked again. The game was played for about an hour without any further issues. The next day the scoring displays no longer worked and the fuse was blown again. I checked the high voltage test points with a DMM and got 183 for TP2 (190) and 243 for TP3 (230). Would TP3 reading above the recommended rate be a sign of an issue or is that an acceptable number? Update: the scoring display would work briefly with a new fuse now the fuse blows instantly when the machine is turned on. I haven't been playing the machine since because I'm worried about wrecking anything further and its not that much fun playing without knowing your score, imho. Since I'm a newbie I've been doing as much reading from various resources including pinwiki and pinrepair to try to narrow down the issue. I read on pinrepair.com that a blown FU2 fuse can be caused by one of the 1n4004 diodes (D5-D8). So I tested the Diodes d5-d8; which all tested fine. I broke a leg off one of the diodes when I tested it so I replaced all four of them since it wasn't that much extra work. The FU2 still blew immediately when the machine is turned on, everything else still works fine. Does anyone have any ideas for what to look at next? I don't have any other ideas at this point. I'm getting a little frustrated seeing the machine sit without being played and I feel like I exhausted all the online resources at this point. I could really use some advice from you more experienced guys out there! Thanks in advance.

    #2 3 years ago
    Quoted from Foxxstone_80:

    Would TP3 reading above the recommended rate be a sign of an issue or is that an acceptable number?

    243V a TP3 is within range.

    Is the 3/16 amp fuse at FU8 also blowing? If not, try disconnecting one leg from the C2 electrolytic capacitor and see if the fuse stops blowing on power up. The side effect of C2 being disconnected is the displays will strobe providing the high voltage circuit is otherwise working.

    #3 3 years ago

    The 3/16 fu8 fuses hasnt blown. I replaced that fuse also when the issue started but it never has blown. Does it matter which end of C2 I disconnect?

    #4 3 years ago
    Quoted from Foxxstone_80:

    Does it matter which end of C2 I disconnect?

    It doesn't matter, disconnect either end of C2 from the circuit.

    #5 3 years ago

    Alright I desoldered one end of C2, and when i turned on the machine (with a new fuse) the scoring displays still don't work but the fuse didn't blow. Does this mean that the issue is with the C2 capacitor or would you suspect something else at this point?

    #6 3 years ago

    What voltage do you now measure at TP3? It should probably be in the vicinity of 160-170 volts DC.

    #7 3 years ago

    My reading for TP2 and TP3 are now both between 0.5 and 1. I double checked my readings to be sure. What does this mean now?

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    #8 3 years ago
    Quoted from Foxxstone_80:

    I double checked my readings to be sure. What does this mean now?

    Sounds like that 3/4 amp fuse is blown again or there's an issue with some of the 4 rectifier diodes.
    With your meter set on AC, do you measure 170VAC between the banded diode leg of diode D6 and either side of the 3/4 amp fuse?

    #9 3 years ago

    The fuse isnt blown. I measured between the diode and the fuse, got 183. Weird thing: the scoring displays turned on and displayed numbers while I had one probe on diode and the other on the fuse.

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    #10 3 years ago
    Quoted from Foxxstone_80:

    the scoring displays turned on and displayed numbers while I had one probe on diode and the other on the fuse.

    Sounds like a bad solder joint.

    BTW that C2 electrolytic capacitor looks rather new. Is it?

    #11 3 years ago

    Not sure about the capacitor. I've only had the machine for about a month, the previous owner may have replaced it. So a bad solder joint on one of the diodes or on the fuse holder? I can resolder any obvious ugly solder joints and see if that helps. I'll try to tackle that in the next day or two and I'll report back here. Thanks for all your help so far Quench. I appreciate you taking your time and working through this with me!

    #12 3 years ago

    Update: instead of sleeping today (I work overnights) I decided to look over the high voltage board and resolder any suspect looking solder joints. Found about 5 that looked crappy and I also resoldered the joints holding the FU2 fuse clip. I hooked the board back up and said a prayer.....it works now!! Thanks so much for your help Quench! I owe you a six pack!

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    #13 3 years ago

    Well done, fellas!!!

    #14 3 years ago

    Awesome! I had that game around 10 years ago. Loved it. I think it had some distinction of worst soundtrack or music or something for a pinball machine when it was made. I thought it was great. Have fun!
    Glad your problem got sorted.

    #15 3 years ago
    Quoted from mikepmcs: I think it had some distinction of worst soundtrack or music or something for a pinball machine when it was made

    Yeah I think I read that somewhere too. I think it's a really fun game, my wife and kids love playing it and the soundtrack seems fine to me. I honestly prefer our other machine, Scorpion, to this one, and it's sound is basically a continuous buzzing sound (unless you get multi ball or hit the spinner).

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