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(Topic ID: 263977)

Please help, how would you fix this?


By Johncare07

8 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 35 posts
  • 22 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 months ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    A497B159-B051-4CD4-AB87-EDE1A4645EC7 (resized).jpeg
    everbilt-corner-braces-15304-64_1000 (resized).jpg
    13C4064E-EB02-431C-A63A-CBA245AB9031 (resized).jpeg

    #1 8 months ago

    What approach would you take for getting this back on and secured? Thanks for any help. John

    13C4064E-EB02-431C-A63A-CBA245AB9031 (resized).jpeg
    #2 8 months ago

    Happened to one of mine as well, following!

    #3 8 months ago

    If it were me, I would probably reach out to a local welding shop.

    I have a MIG welder, but wouldn't try myself. I'm a novice, and I wouldn't want to make a bigger mess.

    If welding is a no-go, I would get a small L-bracket.everbilt-corner-braces-15304-64_1000 (resized).jpg

    I'd hold it up to the area with the broken tab to confirm - if this were fastened with rivets, would the ball contact the rivet head? If it looked OK I would drill two holes that line up with the L bracket, and fasten with tubular rivets.

    #4 8 months ago

    Maybe use an offset post. Drill thru existing hole in playfield, and then drill & rivet to side of ramp/guide. (mount the screw in the playfield first, and then mark the drill spot height on the metal guide) (drilling thru that stainless steel might be a bit tricky?)

    https://www.pinballlife.com/spade-bolt-offset.html

    #5 8 months ago

    Had that happen on a old stern game, I just soldered mine back together still holding.

    #6 8 months ago

    spot welding?

    #7 8 months ago

    I would carbon arc weld it using a Kikasui power supply and a piece of graphite (pencil lead) for a welding rod, just a tap or two to set it then pool across the face, fill it in with solder, or you can try JB weld...

    On the other hand, re-fab it using this one as a guide.

    #8 8 months ago

    Local welding shop.

    #9 8 months ago

    I’m told welding is too hot and would ruin it?

    #10 8 months ago

    It can be welded my local welding shop has repaired several brackets for me

    #11 8 months ago

    You need some material to make a bracket. I really cannot help you there. I would head to the hardware store and look for some steel strap. The bracket shown above will work but I would prefer it if it was blank so I could drill my own hole.

    After I have the bracket solved, I would bond the replacement on the backside with some JB Weld. I would drill my own hole, fill the hole in the play field with some wood dowel, install the guide and drill a new hole in the play field.

    #12 8 months ago
    Quoted from pintime:

    It can be welded my local welding shop has repaired several brackets for me

    I like your welding idea, but the last time I asked a weld shop to do a small job the welder told me he got $55.00 just to turn his welder on.

    #13 8 months ago

    Make your own bracket and pop rivet it on. Just be sure to put the rivet in a place that the ball can't touch it, so towards the bottom of the rail would be the best.

    John

    #14 8 months ago

    I’d have a friend or a local welder weld it back.

    #15 8 months ago

    Unless it’s some really weird material like pot metal, (Relax, I know it’s not) it can certainly be welded. That said, you are going to want to find a welding shop or friend with a TIG welder instead of a MIG welder. The heat with a MIG machine is too high and spread out. It’s not easily controlled. It creates a lot of warpage. A TIG concentrates the heat in a smaller space and a smaller bead (the actual weld itself) can be achieved.

    #17 8 months ago

    A local shop that has a Tig welder is your best option.
    -Mike

    #18 8 months ago

    weld it

    #19 8 months ago
    Quoted from Deezer5150:

    Unless it’s some really weird material like pot metal, (Relax, I know it’s not) it can certainly be welded. That said, you are going to want to find a welding shop or friend with a TIG welder instead of a MIG welder. The heat with a MIG machine is too high and spread out. It’s not easily controlled. It creates a lot of warpage. A TIG concentrates the heat in a smaller space and a smaller bead (the actual weld itself) can be achieved.

    I use MIG all the time to weld stuff like that, takes a light touch though. MIG is very common for use on light sheet metal in the auto industry which is far more prone to warping then a ramp.

    #20 8 months ago

    It is pretty small to weld. Some 2 part epoxy's are super strong and should hold up for you. Or you could make a new tab that has a 90 bend and then epoxy the extra tab on the back side of the rail.

    #21 8 months ago

    Any welder worth their salt can do it easy. My father in law as done lots of ball guide tab repairs for me.

    #22 8 months ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    I like your welding idea, but the last time I asked a weld shop to do a small job the welder told me he got $55.00 just to turn his welder on.

    That's when you laugh and walk back out.

    Walk in someplace else with a 12 pack of Bud.

    I needed a bushing pressed out once, walked into the local shop on a saturday morning with a dozen doughnuts. Boom.

    #23 8 months ago

    college or high school shop teachers like this kind of stuff to teach how to 'real world' weld things up. If your local shops are not helpful.
    Cheers

    #24 8 months ago

    About ten seconds with a tig welder. Had a buddy repair my WW scoop.

    #25 8 months ago

    tig is so nice! welding jewelry lol

    #26 8 months ago

    If you're not into welding, I'd consider just getting a longer screw and stack some washers that are the same distance from the guide. The screw is there to resist back pressure from the ball, so just find a way to renew that pressure with something you screw down. Easy peasy. I did this with my IMDN to keep my launch ball guide from moving over time.

    #27 8 months ago

    there really only is two choices , weld it or get a new one , anything else will look like crap

    #28 8 months ago
    Quoted from luch:

    there really only is two choices , weld it or get a new one , anything else will look like crap

    If it's behind the ball guide and under a plastic (which I'm not sure of, but most of these screws are out of sight) how is it going to look like crap?

    #29 8 months ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    I use MIG all the time to weld stuff like that, takes a light touch though. MIG is very common for use on light sheet metal in the auto industry which is far more prone to warping then a ramp.

    I agree. MiG is very common in the auto industry. Usually with a wire size of .023 or .030. That said an auto body shop could probably handle it. Personally I could do it with a MIG, it isn’t that difficult. Most welding shops, at least the ones around where I live, only have .035 or .045 and aren’t super familiar with light gauge metal. Not to many of them have smaller wire due to the fact that they don't do a lot of sheet metal fab. Mostly fences and trailer hitches.

    #30 8 months ago
    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    If it's behind the ball guide and under a plastic (which I'm not sure of, but most of these screws are out of sight) how is it going to look like crap?your right

    your right it will be hidden

    #31 8 months ago
    Quoted from Tranquilize:

    If it's behind the ball guide and under a plastic (which I'm not sure of, but most of these screws are out of sight) how is it going to look like crap?

    Agreed. I have a screw and a mini-post rubber behind one of mine.

    #32 8 months ago

    UPDATE: Thanks to everyone who helped out. I took it to a welded and he tack welded it. $10. Boom.

    A497B159-B051-4CD4-AB87-EDE1A4645EC7 (resized).jpeg
    #33 8 months ago

    Thanks for posting the outcome.

    #34 8 months ago

    well done .

    #35 8 months ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    Thanks for posting the outcome.

    Actually, you should probably see if he can weld a small piece of rod or a piece of square block over that weld. What you do have will probably break again.

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