Its not a very clear question. Was the game working without having the coin door switches before using a jumper of some sorts, but now that you've installed the proper door and all the switches it does not work?

What jumpers were there and now aren't?

There are grounds that need to be attached, that could the wires you speak of - are they green? I There is an antitheft switch behind the replay button switch that I believe needs to be closed.

Is the game itself getting power?

Can you start a game buy activating the start relay?

You might try adding some more clear description and snap a couple good pictures.

Well, the coin door probably needs the grounds. You can probably inspect closely and find where the ground wire was mounted before - but it probably doesn't matter too much as long is the ground is there. After that I'd check the anti-cheat switches, then check between the replay button switch and S.

Are you getting voltage at the Jones plug?

the two wires with the ring connectors are almost certainly for the coin entry lights...

if the door harness is from an unknown machine (i.e. not yours), i would start by tracing the circuits through the jones plugs... wiring harnesses can (and do) differ... i chased a problem for a very long time because of this...

I had an open ground to the coin door on my Bally Fireball causing a crazy problem like this. Once I confirmed all the grounds were making good contact throughout the game (including the coin door), the game fired right up. Took the better part of an entire day to track it down...

The first thing I would do is look at the wire colors at the Jones plug in the cabinet, and the matching wire colors at the male plug from the door you purchased. If even a single wire color does not match up, you can be pretty sure the door's wire harness does not match your game. If it does not, you will have to draw yourself a schematic of what SHOULD be there according to your games schematic. On your schematic, look for:
Anti Cheat switch (usually located at the bottom right of the schematic (usually Red/White and Slate wires)
#1 Coin Chute Switch (usually near bottom center just above the fuses)
#2 Coin Chute Switch (usually near bottom center)
#3 Coin Chute Switch (typically does NOT exist on the standard US schematic unless its an old game (2 Nickels/play))

There is often a common wire color going to all three coin switches (orange).

Once you identify the wire colors of the cabinet and the ones actually going to the above switches, you may have to move the wires in the male pegs to match the schematic. The Center coin switch may not be used and may not have anything to attach it to if you have a 2 coin slot game.

As was mentioned, the two solder eyelets are normally screwed to the front wood of the cabinet (near the left flipper button) to attach to the two wires that come from the 2 or 3 lamp sockets under the coin entry plate. Of course, this doesn't appear on earlier games with solid steel entry plates (the ones with those little tabs hanging out to lay your coin in).

A green earth ground wire will have nothing to do with the operation of the coin door. It is only to ground the metal of the door to the line cord ground (if it even exists).

This is good advice, and good to know about the ground wire and the different coin doors.

yea it is good to remember about the differences in coin doors/harnesses, because as noted earlier, i chased a "problem" for quite some time that was being caused by the stupidity of the person working on the machine (me... )...

from the standpoint of mr. electron, he doesn't care about grounding a device, he only cares about potential difference... "grounding" is to protect you, not to make electricity "work"... if you chop the ground pin off a power cord, or lift the ground with a cheater plug (as many often do in the a/v world to try to eliminate the 60hz "hum" that is caused by slightly differring ground potentials between circuits), your device will still work just fine... you just are removing what protects you by doing that...

To simplify things here:

If you just want your coin door to start a game and aren't concerned about your coin mech's. you need 4 conductors. The two that operated your start button and the two that go to your coin door slam switch (tilt). These are the only 4 going through your jones plug that you need to worry about. I think orange and white go to your start button on most Gottlieb games of this era. I don't think this era of coin door was grounded like the larger '76 era and above Gottlieb doors. I had the same problem with a 4-Square I replaced the coin door on.

As mentioned above, the two conductors that have terminal connectors on them need to be attached for your coin door 6V lights.