(Topic ID: 322552)

Please help Gilligan

By Kharris

1 year ago


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  • 12 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Kharris
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#1 1 year ago

I have just a Gilligans island pin and when I opened the back glass the power driver board was not attached to anything and nothing was attached to it. I have plugged all the connectors that I could figure out but there are a couple that bewilder me. Any help would be awesome. The three in question are the two red wires on the right side of the board, the bundle of yellow wires with the square plug, and the connector with the blue and orange wires. I think I might be missing a connector on the board for the orange and blue, and I think I’m missing a small harness that connects the yellow wires to the board. I’m not familiar with this machine though.

TIA Kenny

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#2 1 year ago

The yellow wires are general Illumination Looks like that MPU board has a significant amount of battery leakage. The driver board is a later model, hence the connector not able to plug in.

#3 1 year ago

^^ everything Chad said is correct.

Your driver board should have a relay and a molex for the flippers. That board is from a 1992-1995 machine.

And yeah - looks like that CPU board is toast!! Severe acid damage.

rd

#4 1 year ago

I don’t have my Gilligans in front of me but:

This one will likely connect to the transformer (via the loom in the cabinet)

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This one - not so sure - it could well connect to the knocker in the top left corner of the headbox (but check that first!) or it could simply be spare (it happens) Find another Gilligans machine owner to compare with.

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The Gilligans manual isn’t very good - I know from experience, I rebuilt mine from a wreck as well.

rd

#5 1 year ago

MPU board is toast. X
Driver board is the wrong one. X

Ooof.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from rotordave:

I don’t have my Gilligans in front of me but:
This one will likely connect to the transformer (via the loom in the cabinet)
[quoted image]
rd

I thought it was a transformer connector as well but it’s not. It’s definitely got me thinking

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Kharris:

I thought it was a transformer connector as well but it’s not. It’s definitely got me thinking

GI to back box?

#8 1 year ago

I hope you got a screaming deal on this Gilligan's Island. If not then the seller took advantage of you.

  • As noted the CPU board is toast. It looks to be original to the game (20003). Don't bother trying to repair that board (or send it off for repair). It's not cost effective. Just get a replacement board. There are many manufacturers of a replacement for this board.
  • Also as noted the Power Driver board is incorrect. This board looks to have come from a No Fear. There is NO WAY this machine worked properly with that board in it. You can populate the flipper relay section of this board to restore functionality. Otherwise you will need to find a "-1" revision of this board. A repair technician should be able to populate the flipper relay components or there are a few manufacturers of a replacement for this board.
  • J120 is missing. It looks like the wires for this have been connected directly to J121. This is electrically functional but not factory. You will need to undo this and re-create a connector for J120 if you want to restore this to factory.
  • The bundle of YEL/YEL-WHT wires are connected to J115. This is GI transformer secondary. The manual documents the wiring for this if you want to restore it to factory. You will have no GI unless you re-create this connector.
  • The two RED wires are connected to J101-1 and J101-2. This is the 9VAC transformer secondary for the 5V digital logic. If you don't connect this then nothing on the machine will work as you will have no 5V digital logic.
#9 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

I hope you got a screaming deal on this Gilligan's Island. If not then the seller took advantage of you.

As noted the CPU board is toast. It looks to be original to the game (20003). Don't bother trying to repair that board (or send it off for repair). It's not cost effective. Just get a replacement board. There are many manufacturers of a replacement for this board.
Also as noted the Power Driver board is incorrect. This board looks to have come from a No Fear. There is NO WAY this machine worked properly with that board in it. You can populate the flipper relay section of this board to restore functionality. Otherwise you will need to find a "-1" revision of this board. A repair technician should be able to populate the flipper relay components or there are a few manufacturers of a replacement for this board.
J120 is missing. It looks like the wires for this have been connected directly to J121. This is electrically functional but not factory. You will need to undo this and re-create a connector for J120 if you want to restore this to factory.
The bundle of YEL/YEL-WHT wires are connected to J115. This is GI transformer secondary. The manual documents the wiring for this if you want to restore it to factory. You will have no GI unless you re-create this connector.
The two RED wires are connected to J101-1 and J101-2. This is the 9VAC transformer secondary for the 5V digital logic. If you don't connect this then nothing on the machine will work as you will have no 5V digital logic.

Thank you for the info, and I didn’t pay for this machine. I am restoring a taxi for someone and they gave me this as payment. He is giving me a new cpu board and power driver board. How do the 2 red wires connect to j-101? Was there another piece?

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from Kharris:

I am restoring a taxi for someone and they gave me this as payment. He is giving me a new cpu board and power driver board.

I'd call that a screaming deal.

Quoted from Kharris:

How do the 2 red wires connect to j-101? Was there another piece?

j101.jpgj101.jpg

You will have to pull the wires out of the IDC and any of the following:

  • Insert new wires into the IDC and use a 2-pin Molex 0.093" housing.
  • Cut the wires out of the Molex housing and insert them into the IDC.
  • Cut the wires out of the Molex housing and use a new 7-pin housing.
  • Do something else to restore the connection.

There are no phase requirements and no polarity (AC) so the red wires can go either way.

#11 1 year ago

Sometimes the manual can be pretty handy for these kinds of questions.

You can find the manual here:

https://www.ipdb.org/files/1004/Bally_1991_Gilligan_s_Island_Manual.pdf

In particular, look at pages 107-110.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

I'd call that a screaming deal.

[quoted image]
You will have to pull the wires out of the IDC and any of the following:

Insert new wires into the IDC and use a 2-pin Molex 0.093" housing.
Cut the wires out of the Molex housing and insert them into the IDC.
Cut the wires out of the Molex housing and use a new 7-pin housing.
Do something else to restore the connection.

There are no phase requirements and no polarity (AC) so the red wires can go either way.

Thank you. This will hopefully get me up and running. I can worry about the gi later. But before I tear this thing down I wanna make sure it’s working.

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