Yeah that's a project. Hopefully you got it for a good price and mice weren't living in it (they love chewing wires.)

There's no way that machine will work until you repair/replace the power supply. You need new caps and probably new diodes on the 5v line (since the fuse looks blown.) I assume you have good soldering skills and a good iron. You'll be needing them! Good luck!

viperrwk

For mobile devices that can't handle the Flash home page, just point your browser to http://firepowerpinball.com/downloads

This gives you the index of all the jpgs and PDFs you can download and view on your mobile device. Sucks the homepage uses Flash but at least you can get around it.

viperrwk

Hans doesn't have any of these cuurrently - http://www.siegecraft.us/pinball/firepoweradapter.htm - but if he did I would pull all the ROMs, cut all those jumper wires off the CPU board and install this. Perhaps he has an ETA on when he'll have more.

Your 40 pin also must be replaced as there are some bad pins there.

And you really should do power first as without good power it won't matter if the rest of the boards are working or not.

viperrwk

Weirdly Planetary has it but not BAA:

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PC-SYS346A-ADAPT

As Pat says if it works after fixing the PS, 40 pin and driver board you can leave the existing ROMs but if it doesn't, I wouldn't bother swapping out all the ROMs/sockets. Hans' solution will cost only slightly more and is much less work and you'll be less likely to create more problems.

viperrwk

As suggested, until you prove they don't work, clean 'em up and leave them.

Ed@GPE, has the replacement switches:

http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=39-261&sprice=&stype=&scat=

If you ordered from him and he hasn't shipped yet, you can email him and ask him to add switches if you are concerned about them.

viperrwk

Can he tell that to the guy he bought the machine from?

http://forum-img.pinside.com/pinball/forum/?bb_attachments=991259&bbat=116551&inline&fullsize

viperrwk

Yes. The time, cost and effort to fix it with new sockets and a new combo ROM is close to the cost of Hans' solution.

As long as when you broke it off nothing shorted on the bus this should fix your problem since it was booting ok.

viperrwk

This next...

viperrwk

The "monster" lamps are 89 flash lamps.

You can use either 44 or 47s for the rest for the lamps - whatever you have on hand.

viperrwk

It's a diode. You'll need that for the lamp to light properly and not cause problems with the other lamps. You can pick it up at RS - 1n4004.

If the 89 bulbs are lit all the time either you have a bad solenoid transistor at Q43 on the driver board or the resistor board under the playfield is somehow shorted. I'll have to see if I can find a pic for you.

viperrwk

Go back to second post in this thread. The links there should be your bible. No diode on the flash lamps - just the resistor board under the playfield.

As for parts listings, bookmark this page as well:

http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_1980/index.html

Some of this stuff will become second nature to you over time.

viperrwk

No diodes on the flashlamps.

The big resistor on that board is a 330 ohm 2 watt. Looks shot. Replace with a 5 watt equivalent. Or if you install LED flashlamps just cut it off. That is the warming resistor. The small resistor is 1 ohm 1/2 watt.

viperrwk

My tip for bulbs. Pull them all in a small parts container and run them through the dishwasher gentle cycle air dry. Take them out dry them immediately and inspect. Any lamps with blackened or mirrored glass toss out. Then give each 44/47 a gentle twist. Any where the glass turns separate from the base toss out. Lastly check the remaining bulbs with a meter. Any that fail a continuity test throw out. What you will have left are the bulbs you want in the machine and they will shine like new. Right as you go to reinstall use qtips to clean inside every insert. On a machine like FP this process will make it look better than just putting in LEDs. And you may want to run the bulbs in the dishwasher when the wife/SO is not around.

viperrwk

Post a WTB thread and see what you get. I'm sure with everyone who replaced theirs with LED displays that someone has one they would sell you.

viperrwk

If you replace driver transistors you should use a TIP102.

Yes Q12 controls the left kicker. Check the coil and make sure it isn't the culprit. Check resistance across the coil lugs, check the wires and diode at the coil, check for voltage at the coil, ground the non-banded coil lug to make sure it fires. If all that checks out ground the metal tab at Q12. If it doesn't fire then, replace the driver transistor.

viperrwk

Why this isn't in Vid's Sys 3-7 guide I don't know. But he does mention replacing TIP120s with TIP102s in his Bally driver board guide:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing#post-592747

Anyway, the TIP102 is a more robust replacement for a TIP120. A TIP120/122 can handle 5 amps continuous - a TIP102 can handle 8 amps continuous. Bigger safety margin/no difference in price between a TIP122 and a TIP102. Common best practice when replacing. Buy lots of TIP102s. Don't bother with 120/122.

viperrwk

And check the resistor/capacitor network on the sling switch as well. They are known to come loose/short from vibration.

viperrwk

What happened to the resistor on the flash lamp board?

viperrwk

If the flash lamps are locked on and Q43 is good, next check the predriver at Q42 and then the 7408 at IC4 on the driver board (assuming of course the resistor board is wired correctly, the resistors are good and there are no wiring problems.)

viperrwk

What happens when you enter diagnostics - specifically after the lamp test? Does it lock on or is it ok? Also, have you checked the resistor/capacitor on the leaf switch for the sling? It could be shorting somewhere causing the lock? What's the coil resistance? Eliminate possibilities at the coil itself first before taking the soldering iron to the board.

viperrwk

Could also be coil diode - clip and check if you don't have a spare or just replace it if you do.

If diode and coil are good, and switches are good, next thing on the driver board after the driver trans, pre-driver and 7402 is the PIA at IC5. You also have to suspect 40 pin. Test ROM and logic probe would be good to have here to keep you from pulling the PIA unless you have to.

viperrwk

Since you replaced the 7408, it's either the 4.7K pullup resistor, or more likely the playfield switch, specifically the RC network on it. Common point of failure.

viperrwk

Apologies - I forgot that Time Warp is different and that the slings are CPU controlled and not special solenoids.

The only thing in the circuit you haven't touched is the PIA (assuming you did Q29, Q28 and IC2) but since it works in test, I have to agree with Andrew - you probably have a connector issue somewhere, though I would have thought if you did perhaps you'd have some difficulty in test as well.

The only comment I can make about this without going back through this thread to see everything you've done is that when I had FP, it had a 2732 in IC14 without the pullup resistor mod. On occasion it would play the wrong sounds during a game. When I finally added the pullup mod to the 2732 it always played the correct sounds.

viperrwk