(Topic ID: 56809)

Please Help.. Firepower boards


By danczaz

6 years ago



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  • 216 posts
  • 20 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by RudeDogg1
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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There are 216 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 5.
#51 6 years ago

The lower the tolerance percentage, the better.

A 330 ohm 5% resistor could be anywhere from 313 - 345 ohms.

A 330 ohm 10% resistor could be anywhere from 297 - 363 ohms.

See how the lower tolerance number keeps us closer to our goal of 330 ohms?

#52 6 years ago

I emailed that guy after the auction ended hoping to buy this pin for less than his asking price, but he waited a few days and said it was sold.

I hope you got a good deal on it!

#53 6 years ago
Quoted from Patofnaud:

As for the resistors, read Vid bulletproofing guide, remove those resistors all together along with the 'TIP' transistors and install SCR's and jumpers and never worry again.
As for the wire soldered on the driver board, thats a standard 'oops my connector burnt so I'll do a bypass' hack to keep the board running. Simply replace the IDC connectors/pins and you'll be all set.
Again Vid's guide details all of that.

I agree, I did this mod. Those resistors just bake. There is no heat at all with the mod. It must also reduce strain on the transformer.

#54 6 years ago
Quoted from pinballlizard:

I agree, I did this mod. Those resistors just bake. There is no heat at all with the mod. It must also reduce strain on the transformer.

Also helps to reduce the temperature in the backbox, and knocks about 15w or more off the total power draw.

-Hans

#55 6 years ago

dtown
"Are you using the original schematics or the one's from Firepowerpinball.com. The original's specify these as R204-R211 which are 330k ohm 1/4 watt resistors. Break out the book and take a look."

I was using the drawings off the firepower site because they were so easy to print and was better then the old yellowed manuals.

Manual definately says P/N 5A-9001 (R204 - R211) Resistor, FC, 330 Ohm 10% 1/4W

I also notice after a quick glance his drawing has the F3 fuse slow blow but in the bill of materials it does not say slow blow...

#56 6 years ago

lord loss...he was slow on emails responses for me too. i didn't get a good deal...saved you a trip.. However; I'll be happy if after these fixes it works... only time will tell but I also wanted a project to work on and after a 3h45 drive (one way)I was bringing something home... That Tri-Zone he posted looked to be in good shape when I saw it if you were trying to pick up an early SS pin from Williams... guy was a picker and was just flipping these as he found them.

#57 6 years ago

Updates...

CPU Board
- Old battery holder removed. Cleaned up board. New battery holder installed and remote battery holder purchased.
Open concerns noted from previous replies ( SW1 command enter and SW2 diagnostic start look burned up) ... Can I get replacements.. SHould I leave alone??? any thoughts???

Driver Board
- Lamp Column resistors pulled as well as TIP42.. Waiting on parts for mods
-40 pin pulled (pain in ass) and waiting on parts
-Bunch of resitors on order to replace burnt out ones...

Power supply board
- 3 capacitors pulled as well as c15 which was mounted in box. waiting on replacements
-Diodes and resistors on order
-fuses on order for all that I did not have laying around

Speech and Sound board
- Going to leave alone

#58 6 years ago
Quoted from danczaz:

- 3 capacitors pulled as well as c15 which was mounted in box. waiting on replacements

Watch your orientation when installing replacement caps. Luckily the power supply module has "+" marks on the board, just be carefully because most caps have a "-" band on them, some have a "+" band.

As the the remote battery holder, if you get the kind that act like a couple batteries with wires off, then yes you need a new original holder. But, if you have the kind you solder two wires to the MPU, you don't need to replace the holder.

SW1 and SW2 have no power in them so they are probably not burnt, just dirty. Brush them off, do not wash them with anything as the solvent will get inside and foul them. Or let them be.

#59 6 years ago
Quoted from danczaz:

Open concerns noted from previous replies ( SW1 command enter and SW2 diagnostic start look burned up) ... Can I get replacements.. SHould I leave alone??? any thoughts???

As suggested, until you prove they don't work, clean 'em up and leave them.

Ed@GPE, has the replacement switches:

http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=39-261&sprice=&stype=&scat=

If you ordered from him and he hasn't shipped yet, you can email him and ask him to add switches if you are concerned about them.

viperrwk

#60 6 years ago

Thanks... i will just leave the SW1 and SW2 alone unless there is an issue... I will be careful with the cap's.. I saw Vid's thread showing orientation and markings on cap's and I have the original drawings so I should be OK.

#61 6 years ago

On the power supply board for the C15,, where do I solder? Look at drawing and look at where I removed the old solder... This look was where it was at at one point even though we saw the c15 was mounted in back box next to othe large capacitor.... showing ophoto of back of board as well...

#62 6 years ago

On the power supply board for the C15,, where do I solder? Look at drawing and look at where I removed the old solder... This look was where it was at at one point even though we saw the c15 was mounted in back box next to othe large capacitor.... showing ophoto of back of board as well...

#63 6 years ago

hmm .. photos didnt post .... lets try again

c15_power_supply_where.JPG

#64 6 years ago

photo 2 of back of power supply board

7_19_c15_back.JPG

#65 6 years ago

Ahhhh young padawan you have discovered why it is unwise to remove parts before having replacements in hand.

Look at Vid's guide to bulletproofing, I believe he has close up photos of the power module, you should be able to glean what you need out of that. Otherwise someone will have to take a pic and post for you. (I am on the road so I can't atm)

#66 6 years ago

Here you go.

Observe the + symbol.

cap.jpg

#67 6 years ago
Quoted from Patofnaud:

Ahhhh young padawan you have discovered why it is unwise to remove parts before having replacements in hand.

Can he tell that to the guy he bought the machine from?

http://forum-img.pinside.com/pinball/forum/?bb_attachments=991259&bbat=116551&inline&fullsize

viperrwk

#69 6 years ago

Nice, remote cap mod. That's a first.

#70 6 years ago

Hi guys.. I do not think I was clear with my question. Take a look here at the mocked up photo and i think you will see what I am asking

c15_issue.JPG

#71 6 years ago

It just looks like your green hole is filled with solder.

Both holes appear to connect to the same trace on the backside of the board.

#72 6 years ago

Vid,

So I am ok to use the hole by black arrow? It seemed the hole was not going through by red arrow and I did not want to mess anything up...

thanks for all your help on this and other posts...

Dan

#73 6 years ago

Either hole will work, as they are connected together on the back side of the board.

#74 6 years ago

Thanks.... Just wanted to make sure... Especially since the C15 was already removed when I got the machine....(The old measure twice cut once philosphy)..Thanks

#75 6 years ago
Quoted from danczaz:

Vid,

So I am ok to use the hole by black arrow? It seemed the hole was not going through by red arrow and I did not want to mess anything up...

thanks for all your help on this and other posts...

Dan

The hole is just filled with solder, but it's still there.

The other hole is also connected to the same trace (you could verify this with your meter).

So either hole.

#76 6 years ago

Is their a thread on replacing power cord for Williams this era.... thanks

#77 6 years ago

Just three color coded wire connections to solder, nothing challenging. Hardest part is getting your face close enough down into the cab to see what you're doing.

#78 6 years ago

OK...everyone has been so helpful so far...Let me just double check I got the power supply right before I solder it in... (See mock up sketch)

Just waiting on my order from GPE and then its time to solder everything I removed on Driver and power supply board. Got the CPU board back in with new battery holder installed and remote battery holder in place. Hopefully order is here by Monday and we can get the boards back in next week and try to "fire/power" her up!! Just have to grab a few pinballs and new leg levelers from Pinball Life (As it turns out located just 5 miles from where I live!) and I'm ready....Fingers crossed

Have Great Weekend Everyone!!!

Dan

power_cord_mockup.JPG

#79 6 years ago

Looks right. Whats wrong with your power cord? May be easier to just put a new plug on the end?

#80 6 years ago

Only two prong...33 year old machine I figured I might as well whole thing...10 bucks..

#81 6 years ago
Quoted from danczaz:

Only two prong...33 year old machine I figured I might as well whole thing...10 bucks..

Yup. I put a new line cord in since a doggy had chewed off the end of the old one and the seller intalled a crude workaround. Just make sure it fits through the notch in back of the cabinet. I bought one at lowes first. Didn't fit and would have had to cut the notch out more. Returned and bought one from Marcos. Cheaper too.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PC12

#82 6 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The hole is just filled with solder, but it's still there.
The other hole is also connected to the same trace (you could verify this with your meter).
So either hole.

I second verifying with your meter. I always check continuity by buzzing out traces at other points on the board after intalling a new component.

#83 5 years ago

Hello all.

Put everything back together.... I have game displays working now but it come up with the game identification in player 1 display (1497 2) and 04 and 00 in player/ ball display... any ideas of where to go from here?

Thanks
Dan

#84 5 years ago

So I just should of called it anight...went back checked all connections to receptacles and got off that dissplay screen above... turned power on and off and back to where I started. Wiggled all my
ICs and a solenoid fired and game went into attract mode momentarily... then like a dumbass I wiggled that prom in IC26 that HAN mentioned looked different from anything he has saw and it popped out and broke some of male pins....
AHHHHHHHHH......
Looking for advice now... really not sure what to do?????
Replacement WMS system 6 eprom adapter board w/single eprom from planetary pinball????

Thanks
Dan

#85 5 years ago

Good Morning All.... Just wanted to bring this thread to top of the list since I posted so late last night... Any advice on where to go now would be greatly appreciated... Dan

#86 5 years ago
Quoted from danczaz:

Hello all.
Put everything back together.... I have game displays working now but it come up with the game identification in player 1 display (1497 2) and 04 and 00 in player/ ball display... any ideas of where to go from here?
Thanks
Dan

All you needed to do at that point was turn it off and quickly back on. That was just letting you know that the user memory had been lost for some reason.

#87 5 years ago
Quoted from danczaz:

Replacement WMS system 6 eprom adapter board w/single eprom from planetary pinball????
Thanks
Dan

Yes. The time, cost and effort to fix it with new sockets and a new combo ROM is close to the cost of Hans' solution.

As long as when you broke it off nothing shorted on the bus this should fix your problem since it was booting ok.

viperrwk

#88 5 years ago

Patofnaud - I tried to turn it off and on really quick and was stuck on that same display. I let it sit for a few minutes and tried again same result.

#89 5 years ago
Quoted from danczaz:

Patofnaud - I tried to turn it off and on really quick and was stuck on that same display. I let it sit for a few minutes and tried again same result.

Then that means the ram you store user setting in is probably bad. You'll have to replace the 'oops' as viper stated and then see if that fixes the new problem, if not you're probably looking at a 5101 chip.

#90 5 years ago

agreed .. ( just fixed the same problem) if it refuses to leave audit mode you need a new 5101. While its out socket it ( split one if you cant get a socket the right width)

#91 5 years ago
Quoted from danczaz:

. then like a dumbass I wiggled that prom in IC26 that HAN mentioned looked different from anything he has saw and it popped out and broke some of male pins....
AHHHHHHHHH......
Looking for advice now... really not sure what to do?????

This is a good thing.

If the chip and socket were so corroded that they fell apart, better you found this now than chase ghosts latter on.

#92 5 years ago
Quoted from danczaz:

Patofnaud - I tried to turn it off and on really quick and was stuck on that same display. I let it sit for a few minutes and tried again same result.

Also keep in mind this only works with the coin door open

#93 5 years ago

Thanks all.... I ordered the: Replacement WMS system 6 eprom adapter board w/single eprom for Firepower from planetary pinball... I will install and take it from there...

#94 5 years ago
Quoted from GListOverflow:

Also keep in mind this only works with the coin door open

I've a Firepower II with batteries removed and coin door closed that does not follow that belief. I think it has bad voodoo mojo in it.

#95 5 years ago

I really need to get off my ass and make more of those adapters soon

#96 5 years ago
Quoted from Patofnaud:

I've a Firepower II with batteries removed and coin door closed that does not follow that belief.

You're saying you can go from audit to attract by flipping the switch with the door shut? Coin door switch is broken maybe?

Or you can't get from audit to attract at all?

#97 5 years ago

On a firepower II, since it's system 7, just cycle the audits up until it flips from 50 back to 0, it puts the machine back into attract mode. (this doesn't work for system 6 and earlier)

For System 6 and earlier machines, just quickly flipping the power off and on fast enough will get you into attract mode without batteries.

-Hans

#98 5 years ago
Quoted from HHaase:

On a firepower II, since it's system 7, just cycle the audits up until it flips from 50 back to 0, it puts the machine back into attract mode. (this doesn't work for system 6 and earlier)
For System 6 and earlier machines, just quickly flipping the power off and on fast enough will get you into attract mode without batteries.
-Hans

+1

#99 5 years ago

Replacement WMS system 6 eprom adapter board w/single eprom for Firepower from planetary pinball has arrived... I will be installing when I get home tonight. Fingers are crossed...

#100 5 years ago

Houston we still have a problem.. back to game ID and 04 and 00 on displays.... ideas on where to go from here... thanks dan

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