Firepower
Williams, 1980The lower the tolerance percentage, the better.
A 330 ohm 5% resistor could be anywhere from 313 - 345 ohms.
A 330 ohm 10% resistor could be anywhere from 297 - 363 ohms.
See how the lower tolerance number keeps us closer to our goal of 330 ohms?
I emailed that guy after the auction ended hoping to buy this pin for less than his asking price, but he waited a few days and said it was sold.
I hope you got a good deal on it!
Quoted from Patofnaud:As for the resistors, read Vid bulletproofing guide, remove those resistors all together along with the 'TIP' transistors and install SCR's and jumpers and never worry again.
As for the wire soldered on the driver board, thats a standard 'oops my connector burnt so I'll do a bypass' hack to keep the board running. Simply replace the IDC connectors/pins and you'll be all set.
Again Vid's guide details all of that.
I agree, I did this mod. Those resistors just bake. There is no heat at all with the mod. It must also reduce strain on the transformer.
Quoted from pinballlizard:I agree, I did this mod. Those resistors just bake. There is no heat at all with the mod. It must also reduce strain on the transformer.
Also helps to reduce the temperature in the backbox, and knocks about 15w or more off the total power draw.
-Hans
dtown
"Are you using the original schematics or the one's from Firepowerpinball.com. The original's specify these as R204-R211 which are 330k ohm 1/4 watt resistors. Break out the book and take a look."
I was using the drawings off the firepower site because they were so easy to print and was better then the old yellowed manuals.
Manual definately says P/N 5A-9001 (R204 - R211) Resistor, FC, 330 Ohm 10% 1/4W
I also notice after a quick glance his drawing has the F3 fuse slow blow but in the bill of materials it does not say slow blow...
lord loss...he was slow on emails responses for me too. i didn't get a good deal...saved you a trip.. However; I'll be happy if after these fixes it works... only time will tell but I also wanted a project to work on and after a 3h45 drive (one way)I was bringing something home... That Tri-Zone he posted looked to be in good shape when I saw it if you were trying to pick up an early SS pin from Williams... guy was a picker and was just flipping these as he found them.
Updates...
CPU Board
- Old battery holder removed. Cleaned up board. New battery holder installed and remote battery holder purchased.
Open concerns noted from previous replies ( SW1 command enter and SW2 diagnostic start look burned up) ... Can I get replacements.. SHould I leave alone??? any thoughts???
Driver Board
- Lamp Column resistors pulled as well as TIP42.. Waiting on parts for mods
-40 pin pulled (pain in ass) and waiting on parts
-Bunch of resitors on order to replace burnt out ones...
Power supply board
- 3 capacitors pulled as well as c15 which was mounted in box. waiting on replacements
-Diodes and resistors on order
-fuses on order for all that I did not have laying around
Speech and Sound board
- Going to leave alone
Quoted from danczaz:- 3 capacitors pulled as well as c15 which was mounted in box. waiting on replacements
Watch your orientation when installing replacement caps. Luckily the power supply module has "+" marks on the board, just be carefully because most caps have a "-" band on them, some have a "+" band.
As the the remote battery holder, if you get the kind that act like a couple batteries with wires off, then yes you need a new original holder. But, if you have the kind you solder two wires to the MPU, you don't need to replace the holder.
SW1 and SW2 have no power in them so they are probably not burnt, just dirty. Brush them off, do not wash them with anything as the solvent will get inside and foul them. Or let them be.
Quoted from danczaz:Open concerns noted from previous replies ( SW1 command enter and SW2 diagnostic start look burned up) ... Can I get replacements.. SHould I leave alone??? any thoughts???
As suggested, until you prove they don't work, clean 'em up and leave them.
Ed@GPE, has the replacement switches:
http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=39-261&sprice=&stype=&scat=
If you ordered from him and he hasn't shipped yet, you can email him and ask him to add switches if you are concerned about them.
viperrwk
Thanks... i will just leave the SW1 and SW2 alone unless there is an issue... I will be careful with the cap's.. I saw Vid's thread showing orientation and markings on cap's and I have the original drawings so I should be OK.
On the power supply board for the C15,, where do I solder? Look at drawing and look at where I removed the old solder... This look was where it was at at one point even though we saw the c15 was mounted in back box next to othe large capacitor.... showing ophoto of back of board as well...
On the power supply board for the C15,, where do I solder? Look at drawing and look at where I removed the old solder... This look was where it was at at one point even though we saw the c15 was mounted in back box next to othe large capacitor.... showing ophoto of back of board as well...
Ahhhh young padawan you have discovered why it is unwise to remove parts before having replacements in hand. 
Look at Vid's guide to bulletproofing, I believe he has close up photos of the power module, you should be able to glean what you need out of that. Otherwise someone will have to take a pic and post for you. (I am on the road so I can't atm)
Quoted from Patofnaud:Ahhhh young padawan you have discovered why it is unwise to remove parts before having replacements in hand.
Can he tell that to the guy he bought the machine from?
http://forum-img.pinside.com/pinball/forum/?bb_attachments=991259&bbat=116551&inline&fullsize
viperrwk
Quoted from viperrwk:Can he tell that to the guy he bought the machine from?
http://forum-img.pinside.com/pinball/forum/?bb_attachments=991259&bbat=116551&inline&fullsize
viperrwk
Nice!
Vid,
So I am ok to use the hole by black arrow? It seemed the hole was not going through by red arrow and I did not want to mess anything up...
thanks for all your help on this and other posts...
Dan
Thanks.... Just wanted to make sure... Especially since the C15 was already removed when I got the machine....(The old measure twice cut once philosphy)..Thanks
Quoted from danczaz:Vid,
So I am ok to use the hole by black arrow? It seemed the hole was not going through by red arrow and I did not want to mess anything up...
thanks for all your help on this and other posts...
Dan
The hole is just filled with solder, but it's still there.
The other hole is also connected to the same trace (you could verify this with your meter).
So either hole.
Just three color coded wire connections to solder, nothing challenging. Hardest part is getting your face close enough down into the cab to see what you're doing.
OK...everyone has been so helpful so far...Let me just double check I got the power supply right before I solder it in... (See mock up sketch)
Just waiting on my order from GPE and then its time to solder everything I removed on Driver and power supply board. Got the CPU board back in with new battery holder installed and remote battery holder in place. Hopefully order is here by Monday and we can get the boards back in next week and try to "fire/power" her up!! Just have to grab a few pinballs and new leg levelers from Pinball Life (As it turns out located just 5 miles from where I live!) and I'm ready....Fingers crossed
Have Great Weekend Everyone!!!
Dan
Quoted from danczaz:Only two prong...33 year old machine I figured I might as well whole thing...10 bucks..
Yup. I put a new line cord in since a doggy had chewed off the end of the old one and the seller intalled a crude workaround. Just make sure it fits through the notch in back of the cabinet. I bought one at lowes first. Didn't fit and would have had to cut the notch out more. Returned and bought one from Marcos. Cheaper too.
Quoted from vid1900:The hole is just filled with solder, but it's still there.
The other hole is also connected to the same trace (you could verify this with your meter).
So either hole.
I second verifying with your meter. I always check continuity by buzzing out traces at other points on the board after intalling a new component.
Hello all.
Put everything back together.... I have game displays working now but it come up with the game identification in player 1 display (1497 2) and 04 and 00 in player/ ball display... any ideas of where to go from here?
Thanks
Dan
So I just should of called it anight...went back checked all connections to receptacles and got off that dissplay screen above... turned power on and off and back to where I started. Wiggled all my
ICs and a solenoid fired and game went into attract mode momentarily... then like a dumbass I wiggled that prom in IC26 that HAN mentioned looked different from anything he has saw and it popped out and broke some of male pins....
AHHHHHHHHH......
Looking for advice now... really not sure what to do?????
Replacement WMS system 6 eprom adapter board w/single eprom from planetary pinball????
Thanks
Dan
Good Morning All.... Just wanted to bring this thread to top of the list since I posted so late last night... Any advice on where to go now would be greatly appreciated... Dan
Quoted from danczaz:Hello all.
Put everything back together.... I have game displays working now but it come up with the game identification in player 1 display (1497 2) and 04 and 00 in player/ ball display... any ideas of where to go from here?
Thanks
Dan
All you needed to do at that point was turn it off and quickly back on. That was just letting you know that the user memory had been lost for some reason.
Quoted from danczaz:Replacement WMS system 6 eprom adapter board w/single eprom from planetary pinball????
Thanks
Dan
Yes. The time, cost and effort to fix it with new sockets and a new combo ROM is close to the cost of Hans' solution.
As long as when you broke it off nothing shorted on the bus this should fix your problem since it was booting ok.
viperrwk
Patofnaud - I tried to turn it off and on really quick and was stuck on that same display. I let it sit for a few minutes and tried again same result.
Quoted from danczaz:Patofnaud - I tried to turn it off and on really quick and was stuck on that same display. I let it sit for a few minutes and tried again same result.
Then that means the ram you store user setting in is probably bad. You'll have to replace the 'oops' as viper stated and then see if that fixes the new problem, if not you're probably looking at a 5101 chip.
Quoted from danczaz:. then like a dumbass I wiggled that prom in IC26 that HAN mentioned looked different from anything he has saw and it popped out and broke some of male pins....
AHHHHHHHHH......
Looking for advice now... really not sure what to do?????
This is a good thing.
If the chip and socket were so corroded that they fell apart, better you found this now than chase ghosts latter on.
Quoted from danczaz:Patofnaud - I tried to turn it off and on really quick and was stuck on that same display. I let it sit for a few minutes and tried again same result.
Also keep in mind this only works with the coin door open
Thanks all.... I ordered the: Replacement WMS system 6 eprom adapter board w/single eprom for Firepower from planetary pinball... I will install and take it from there...
Quoted from GListOverflow:Also keep in mind this only works with the coin door open
I've a Firepower II with batteries removed and coin door closed that does not follow that belief. I think it has bad voodoo mojo in it.
Quoted from Patofnaud:I've a Firepower II with batteries removed and coin door closed that does not follow that belief.
You're saying you can go from audit to attract by flipping the switch with the door shut? Coin door switch is broken maybe?
Or you can't get from audit to attract at all?
On a firepower II, since it's system 7, just cycle the audits up until it flips from 50 back to 0, it puts the machine back into attract mode. (this doesn't work for system 6 and earlier)
For System 6 and earlier machines, just quickly flipping the power off and on fast enough will get you into attract mode without batteries.
-Hans
Quoted from HHaase:On a firepower II, since it's system 7, just cycle the audits up until it flips from 50 back to 0, it puts the machine back into attract mode. (this doesn't work for system 6 and earlier)
For System 6 and earlier machines, just quickly flipping the power off and on fast enough will get you into attract mode without batteries.
-Hans
+1
Replacement WMS system 6 eprom adapter board w/single eprom for Firepower from planetary pinball has arrived... I will be installing when I get home tonight. Fingers are crossed...
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/please-help-firepower-boards/page/2 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Sana'a
Troy, MI
Melbourne