(Topic ID: 298927)

William Cyclone Ferris Wheel not Spinning

By steve8091

2 years ago


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  • 45 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#14 2 years ago
Quoted from steve8091:

Again, the situation is that the relay for my Ferris wheel isn't clicking. I am getting 31VAC at the board, but I can't get the relay to switch. I replaced Q6 and the replacement tests good.

When measuring the positive voltage, ground the tab on Q-6. What happens to the positive voltage?

#15 2 years ago

Can you take a pic of the aux power supply?

#17 2 years ago

In your pic I can see that the jumpers W1 and W3 are zero ohm resistors. These zero ohm resistors can go bad over time. Remove all of them and replace with a piece of wire or paper clip. There are more then the 2 in your pic, at least 3-5 on the board that need to be replaced.

#19 2 years ago

You can check the back of the board. Look at the solder joints for cracks on the header pins and the relay pins.

#21 2 years ago
Quoted from steve8091:

I checked for continuity on the 0 ohm resistors and they are all good

They will test good but open up under load.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/earthshaker-problem-has-me-stumped#post-4378567

#23 2 years ago

Remove the relay board, see if it has cracked solder joints.

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#25 2 years ago

How about a pic of the new relay board.

#27 2 years ago

I can't see the driver wire, it should be brown/grey, correct. Now about the white/blue wires, white/blue wires should be for the ferris wheel flasher bulbs not the ferris wheel motor. Can you confirm that one of the white/blue wires goes to the ferris wheel motor?

If you take a jumper and connect it to the ground braid. Turn on the game power. Touch the other end of the jumper to the brown/grey wire on the relay, does the relay click?

#30 2 years ago

Could you have had a connection issue before when the 2 wire connector was crooked, I would try doing the ground jumper to the brown/grey wire again.

#31 2 years ago

If the ground jumper doesn't make the relay click, then remove the 2 pin connector from the board. Set DMM to ohms and connect meter leads to the 2 pin header pins on the relay board. You should read @ 400 ohms.

#33 2 years ago
Quoted from steve8091:

I show an open there - no resistance reading? I'll take a closer look at this.

Sounds like you have a bad relay coil. Check the solder joints on the back of the board for the 2 pin connector and the relay coil windings.

#35 2 years ago

600 ohms is fine for this type of relay. Tape on the vent hole isn't anything to worry about.

You said you were getting @ 36 volts on the red wire, and you grounded the brown/grey wire. The coil winding is reading good ohms thru the circuit board. This should work! Unless you have a bad connection somewhere. Measure the voltage on the red wire while you ground the brown/ grey, does the @ 36 volts keep reading on the meter or does it drop to zero?

#37 2 years ago
Quoted from steve8091:

I tested all of the transistors on the auxiliary board, and they are now all shorted. I am at a loss.

These are PNP transistors, the CPU board has NPN transistors. They test differently.

Quoted from steve8091:

When I went to retest today and was focused on the motor, the left sling coil started smoking

Check the size of the fuses. Coils shouldn't smoke, the fuse should burn.

#39 2 years ago
Quoted from steve8091:

When I say that I 'tested' the transistors, I just checked for continuity between the tabs and the ground braid, and they all have it.

So when it comes to PNP transistors like the 8 TIP36a transistors on the aux power supply, they are not wired the same as a NPN transistor because they work in reverse. You checked from the metal tab (collector) to ground and had continuity, this is correct as you can see in my pics below that the collector and the metal tab are connected internally in the TIP36a and the diagram of the sling shot circuits Q-6 and Q-8 on the aux power supply have the collector tied to ground (downward point arrow).

The last pic is a TIP122 on the CPU board. This is a NPN transistor. In this circuit the emitter is tied to ground instead of the collector. So when checking the ohms on this transistor metal tab (collector) to ground you will get .600 meg ohms or larger.

I hope this makes sense, I'm not the best teacher.

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#42 2 years ago
Quoted from steve8091:

when I replaced the 0 ohm resistors, one of the paper clips that I used that crosses the masked traces is pretty close against the board. Is there any chance that this could be causing a short, even though the traces are masked?

You can't count on the masking to insulate. I would make sure there is a gap between the paperclip and the trace.

Quoted from steve8091:

I'm wrapping up for the night, but I'll check on Q71 tomorrow.

Q-6 on the aux power supply could also be bad causing the coil to smoke. If you disconnect J-3 on the aux power supply, does the sling still lock on?

1 week later
#45 2 years ago
Quoted from steve8091:

Pulled J3 and it still locks on. Not sure where to go next.

Q-6 is shorted on the aux power supply. D-22 has been stressed too. If you have a pair of anvil cutters (pic below), cut off Q-6 and D-22 for the time being. If not then remove one of the wires from the coil.

Try this again.

Quoted from GRUMPY:

Measure the voltage on the red wire while you ground the brown/ grey, does the @ 36 volts keep reading on the meter or does it drop to zero?

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