I'll need to see a high quality scan of the schematic from e.g. Staples ($2) or Kinkos ($6)

If the usual places like pinball resource and marcos don't have it then maybe one of the other owners would be willing to scan it for you.
https://pinside.com/pinball/archive/the-30s/owners

A playfield switch, or several, are sticking.
A wire is shorting.
A Relay switch is bent making contact.
The score motor brake is not working.

Check anything that scores 10K, or multiples of. I see a pop bumper, for one, in the crappy shot on IPDB.

Did you check the 2 switches underneath it? Gap, short, solder drips, etc. Also, what do the RO and target that score 30K when lit score when not?

And do you mean that the bumper is lit when the machine is off?

Hi widget2k4 +
I wanted to look at the pin in ipdb - about the 10'000 points --- what do I see: IPDB says "the 2-player-pin is Recel Bang! Bang!" http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=167

There is a good spanish site: http://www.tecnopinball.org/doc_biblioteca.php AND THEY HAVE the "Esquema Bang Bang". And points and other playfield features: No difference in the logic (4- versus 2-player-game).

about the 10'000 points --- want to unsolder a wire away from the coil - for a while - so You can test other stuff - maybe play a bit ?
Greetings Rolf

Hi widget2k4
I pick the last sentence in Your post-15 --- ro switch in the ball shoot lane --- hmm, here http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=834&picno=39111 on the right: I do not see a switch in the shooter alley. Can You make an description using the ipdb-picture - talking "left / right / up etc." ? Greetings Rolf

Hi widget2k4
in the last sentence in Your post-15 --- ro switch in the ball shoot lane: You say it does nothing --- I wonder "where on the playfield is this switch ?".
To me "ball shoot lane" sonds like "shooter alley - the channel we launch balls so the ball get into play" --- I look at the ipdb-picture - I do not see an switch in the shooter alley - so what switch is Your " ro switch in the ball shoot lane" ? Greetings Rolf

Hi widget2k4
a fact (Far Out) and some guessing (the 30's). See here http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=823&picno=52843 - my Far Out has an "Gate". When the Gate is open and a ball rolls through the open Gate into the Shooter Alley: The Gate-Relay is made to quit pulling means the Gate closes. When I have the Gate open and loose the ball between the flipperbats: A new ball is given to the shooter alley - the Gate is STILL open. I then launch the new ball - the ball rolls over the switch and the Gate closes.

(Guessing) The ipdb-picture to Your pin does not show such an switch in the shooter alley - to Bang!Bang! http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=167 the ipdb shows no switch. The http://www.tecnopinball.org/doc_biblioteca.phpv has the schematics Bang!Bang! --- at position E/F-1/2 in the schematics are coils "ZZ" and "YY" (I guess the Gates) --- two switches "Door Close" AND "Switch on P-Relay" opening to also cut current. P-Relay is the P-Add-Player-Unit-Relay. So in Bang!Bang! the Gates also close when the pin steps to next player / next ball.
And now really the guessing: Maybe You have an early production pin - designed like my "Far Out" - and in production time somebody came and said: Hey - we do it other (like shown in the schematics Bang!Bang!) --- let the switch there but do wire it new / like schematics Bang!Bang!.

Please shop around for an schematics to Your pin --- there is not much joy looking into the schematics of Bang!Bang! (color of wires ?) trying to find information to Your pin. Greetings Rolf

Hi widget2k4
I show a snippet of schematics of the TWO-Player-pin --- Your pin has (probably) the same logic --- but for (1,2) (3) 4 Players. I see a possibility "brown, upper part in the JPG" to cause the faulty pulling - and I see a possibility "blue, lower part" to cause the fault. For both I must think-in an additional fault to make happen what You have in Your pin.

"Blue": The "Self-Hold-Switch*** on the K-10'000-Relay" is faulty always closed (and additional: The Coil on the 10'000-Score-Drum does not fire).

"Brown": On the 1000s-Score-Drums there is a plunger moved (to then make the drum to turn) --- at end of travel the plunger opens a switch (brown-1) - also closes a switch (brown-2). IF (if, if) two studs / solder-lugs on these two switches (on any of the Score-Drums) faulty touch: You have faulty connection along "brown lines" (and additional: The Score-Drum is in 9th position and/or the 9th-pos-switch is faulty).

Want to try on "blue" - locate the plunger on one of the 10'000-Score-Drums and the End-of-Stroke-Switch (blue-1) that shall open when the coil on the drum fires --- sneak-in a stripe of paper in-between the contact-points to make the switch permanently open.
Want to try on "blue" - inspect the "Self-Hold-Switch*** on the K-10'000-Relay" - have the pin toggled off so the relay is not pulling - is this switch truely open ? (contact-points, drop of solder, doghair crap of wire, a stud bent and so the solder-lugs touch ?)
The "Self-Hold-Switch*** on the K-10'000-Relay" is easy to find: From one side of the coil runs a short wire to "Switch mounted on the relay" - THIS switch is the Self-Hold-Switch***.

Want to try on "brown" - Inspect all the End-of-Stroke-Switches on the 1000s-Score-Drums for "touching studs / solder-lugs" (brown-1, brown-2). (But to brown: problem 9th-pos-switch).

The written above is "searching the cause of the problem" --- it is not "fixing the problem". Greetings Rolf

0Bang-Bang-Work-02 (resized).jpg

Have you looked at the switch underneath the green 10k pop bumper? if that's jammed on, then the relay will be always on.

As you dont have as yet, have a schematic, look at the wire colours to trace around the machine so at least you can pin point where and what they supply.

Hope that helps!

Hi widget2k4 +
do laugh at me / twit --- CLASSICPINBALL 's remark about the 10k pop bumper made me to (really) look at the pin - this: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2532 is Your pin --- and this http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=834 is what I thought ... All my writing so far is "to be deleted" - well, O.K. this is true on every pin: When the 10K-Relay has its Self-Hold-Switch faulty always closed we then have a problem --- either "Machine-Gunning" when the 10k Score-Drum-EOS switch is good --- or then a stuck 10k-Relay when the Score-Drum does not actuate the plunger - the EOS-Switch on the Drum faulty not opens.

I think positive and look forward (and forget about the past) --- here http://www.tecnopinball.org/doc_biblioteca.php they have the schematics of the 4-Player "Speak Easy" - and You have the two player version "The 30s".

I will write a post (like post-23) but with the schematics of "Speak Easy" --- the problem is a "playfield feature" so the schematics of the 4-player version is of help. Greetings Rolf

Hi widget2k4
I have big problems with the schematics "Speak Easy" --- stuff is named in spanish words. In post-27 You write "one more problem - the Replay-Relay sticks". Here http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2532&picno=16894 we see a Score-Motor like Williams motors - so I say "Playmatics use Williams Logic" --- hmm, Williams, Replay-Relay - what is this for ? I look into the schematics "Blue Chip, Williams" - I do not see an Replay-Relay in the Williams schematics. Do You take the word "Replay-Relay" from a paper attached near the Relay in the pin ?
Does this (Replay- ) Relay immediately pulls-in when You toggle on the pin ? Or "when You want to start a game" ? Does Your pin has paper-tags telling the names - in english and/or spanish ? Did You fumble on the Coin-Door-Switches ? Did You check Vintage-Pinball 's post-24 --- having a good look at the green 10k bumper. (Assuming the other 2 bumpers are good: Looking at an "good bumper" and You see how switches should be). Greetings Rolf

Hi widget2k4
thanks for the picture in post-29 - also post-5 --- You have papertags telling "DM is 10'000 Relay", "G is 1000 Relay", "F is 100 Relay", "A is Replay Relay". The letters DM, G, F, A match with the letters in the schematics.
The schematics makes me believe: "A Replay Relay" has to do with coining-up the Replay-Counter in the Backglass. Here http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2532&picno=16889 on top of the head of the man in the lower left corner --- is there an Replay-Counter ?

Toggle-off the pin - manually step the Replay-Counter down to 1 or 2 or 3 Replays --- then toggle-on the pin - question: Toc, toc, toc ... and the Replay-Counter steps up to MAX (maybe 10 or 15 or 25 or 37 Replays) ?

Ooops - Your post-30 did come in --- the picture shows the Score-MOTOR. The counters in the Backglass are Score-DRUMS --- DID You get the schematics ? Greetings Rolf

0Speak-Easy-Work-01 (resized).jpg

That worn part on the red plastic will need attention before you go much further. Its odd how its got to that state. I'm guessing the leaf blade that was protruding through was too tight and wore the plastic away. looking at the other leaf blade ends it suggests that the blade end has snapped off? Can you see an obvious break edge?

At the end of the day, get that fixed and working correctly before you do much other work or you'll end up with a mares nest of problems.

That looks like you motor cam unit as it has an index and impulse cam on it. Whatever you do, DON'T begin tinkering with that unit until you have the other 2 issues sorted out.

As for not being able to understand your schematic, don't worry too much at this stage. Instead, I suggest, as an exercise, that you gently clean the connecting wires on the motor and then try to find the motor unit on the schematic [there is normally a symbol to identify motors on them] and look at the index cam's wiring colours and then compare against the schematic so that you can both see and understand what the wires do and where they feed up to.

Hopefully, things will suddenly make more sense as you see that, for instance, that coloured wire goes to a relay. You then see that relay as identified on the schematic, for example again, a start relay, etc, etc. And if you are lucky, said relay migh still have its identifying label on it which really helps you. But if not, then your wiring colours shall identify it so you aren't lost!

Schematics are normally arranged in a grid type pattern where you have A.B.C, etc letters on the sides and numbers 1,2,3, etc at the bottom and top. Then, where the relays are shown, i.e Start relay, it might show as C 5 next to it. Simply go to C and 5 on it and you should then see it. Its wire colours will also be shown, for example, WH [White] and GR [Grey] and so on.

Do please also remember that your machine will have mains current running through it so ALWAYS disconnect from your power socket before doing any work on a machine.

I hope that helps you a little.

Do you have a translator? No, the white/green (BL/VE here) comes from a make/break on M, a "control bumpers relay." Do you see that? Looks like Imp-C on the score motor may be involved as well.

Here's a good read about schematics, which you should know if you want to be able to work on EMs: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#schematic

The upper part is the 6v., lights section of the schematic. Here is the section I referred to, and note the mistake "1000" written next to DM. It shows "10,000" in the legend.

(and don't be too quick to sell your game; the more you look at schematics, the more you'll get it. Don't think of them as a physical map, but as a map of connections)

Capture (resized).PNG

Hi widget2k4 +
I was about to get frustrated "widget2k4 has the schematics --- but he does not show it" - O.K. You have clarified in post-39 "what we have is the schematics of the FOUR-Player version, the "Speak Easy" --- it is of help for problems "playfield features". It is not of help on problems "start and reset" / "stepping on the balls".
ipdb has to "Black Flag - ONE-Player pin" the schematics: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4487 - I look at and see: Strange, the Score-Motor is like Gottlieb-Score-Motors - so Black Flag to me is 3,4,5 choice to look-at.
Nice - here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ball-count-not-decreasing-stays-on-ball-5-playmatic-conquest-200#post-4172778 is the schematics to the ONE-Player-Pin "Conquest 200" --- (well, part of the playfield-feature stuff is missing) --- but look at the pictures in that topic in post-6: The Score-Motor is like the one in "the 30's". I would like to use the schematics "Conquest 200" for problems in Your pin "start and reset" / "stepping on the balls".

What issues / problems do You have in Your pin --- here in post-27 You show (ugly) a problem on the Score-Motor --- in the picture in post-30, black cam named "index" - the "red nylon follower" does not look "well seated" --- can You start a new game and the pin resets and kicks-out a ball ?

You do have the problem "10k Relay is faulty constantly pulling" - see the JPG - Your 10k Relay is the "DM-Relay" ? See the lower left corner in the JPG - a short wire runs from the coil to switch mounted on the relay --- this is "encircled blue switch 'DM' " - check for "open when relay is not pulling - drop of solder at the solder-lugs making faulty connection ? - a doghair crap of wire ? - one of the lugs bent so the lugs touch ?". Sneak-in a stripe of wire in-between the two contact-points - make this switch always open. See the lower left corner in the JPG - wire-color-BL-VE is soldered-on on that switch and this wire runs into the pin - runs to many places - runs to "Switch on M-Relay" (and more) - locate the M-Relay and the switch with wire-color-BL-VE - inspect the switch and sneak-in a stripe of paper.
Locate all the relays shown in the JPG and the switches (encircled blue) - inspect and sneak-in a stripe of paper to make the switches "always open". "My blue star in the JPG" is the "9th-pos-switch on the 1000-point-drum" - also make this switch always open.

Have the DM-Coil connected - plug-in, toggle-on, start a game - question: Does the DM-Relay faulty pull ? IF (if, if) "Yes": Please write about. IF (if, if) "No": Pull-out ONE of the stripes of paper - question: Does the faulty pulling happen - You have found the place. Otherwise pull-out the next stripe of paper - and the next - and the next --- Do You find the faulty place ? Greetings Rolf

0Speak-Easy-Work-02 (resized).jpg

Hi widget2k4
a post to come "Score-Motor".
In post-44 You write the second time "activating the S-Special-Relay makes the 10k-fault to dissapear". I hope for luck --- I look at Your picture in post-10, on the bottom out-left and out-right I see the Outlanes worth hmm, how many points ? - worth "Special" when lit. I look at my JPG in post-43, on the bottom I see "my drawn blue wire comes to an threebladed-Make-and-Brake-Switch on S-Relay. To the right then come "pasillo inf. der. and pasillo inf. izqu". The dictionnary http://www.dict.cc/ I sometimes use - set to "EN-ES", looking for pasillo: http://enes.dict.cc/?s=pasillo gives "corridor, aisle" --- I think positive and so I read "Outlane".

A question: What points do You get on these Outlanes "special not lit" ?
A question: What points do You get on these Outlanes "special lit" ?
Have a good look at these switches (Outlanes left and right on the underneathside of the playfield) --- bent blade making faulty always contact ? drop of solder ? doghair crap of wire ? a stud / solderlug bent ?

Look again to the JPG in post-43, bottom, three-bladed switch "S" --- the S-Relay not pulling and we have connection (wanted by the manufacturer) towards the right --- when one of these "pasillo-switches" is faulty always closed: The fault on DM-10k-Relay. Greetings Rolf

Hi widget2k4
more text to come (Playmatic, Williams) --- here the situation on Bally pins. Greetings Rolf

0pinwiki-BallyScoreMotor3-4View-Work-01 (resized).jpg

Hi widget2k4
I wonder how my JPG (post-48) had become faulty --- this one is reasonable. Greetings Rolf

0pinwiki-BallyScoreMotor3-4View-Work-01 (resized).jpg

Hi widget2k4
Score-Motor - hmm - did You unscrew and take-off the Switch-Stacks above the many black cams ? Did You take apart the many black cams and now have a bunch of similar looking cams not knowing the order to put together ? Is the picture in post-30 BEFORE taking apart ? Is the picture in post-44 BEFORE taking apart ? Can You show a picture "by now the motor looks like this" ? Greetings Rolf