(Topic ID: 196818)

Playmatic, How good are their pinball machines?

By Grayman_EM

6 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 60 posts
  • 21 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Grayman_EM
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#21 3 years ago
Quoted from pjjj:

Also fixed display error.

Tell me more! I'm currently dealing with display issues on my Last Lap. Trying to reverse engineer the displays, have new boards made, and start fresh with modern components, but it's slow going.

Quoted from pjjj:

Much effort was put in getting the used connectors OK again. Never seen worse connectors.
Not replaceable, no alternative, just clean and adjust one by one.

I combed the globe for replacement connectors and was unsuccessful. My originals were crumbling. I ended up soldering individual molex connectors directly to the pins on the MPU, insulating them with double layers of shrink tube, and running pigtails to a modern molex connector. It's ugly, but it got the game to be functional and reliable--aside from the issue with the displays mentioned above.

Quoted from KenLayton:

The Playmatic machines I have seen have particle board cabinets. So if the machines have been stored poorly (damp conditions), the cabinets could be falling apart or disintegrating.

Yup. simply awful materials used. I ended up rebuilding the head with new wood, as the particle board was crumbling away to nothing. The cabinet itself is fine on mine.

#23 3 years ago

Ken-

See attached. It's an unusual connector. Header pins are round, and 1.5mm (.059 inch) in diameter. Center to center, the pins are 4.96mm (.195 inch) apart.

The connectors from the cabinet to the head are standard Jones plugs, albeit the absolute worst quality ones I've ever seen. I replaced them with old EM ones from my stash.

playmatic connector (resized).jpgplaymatic connector (resized).jpg
1 week later
#30 3 years ago

Mine is a Last Lap. The displays look just like the photo you posted. I'm not sure where the problem lies with mine, but there are some burned out segments in the actual displays (I've tested them). When I swap displays around, the displays show the same problems each time, so I suspect the chips may be bad.

I have the same schematic you posted, and an electrical engineer friend re-drew it in some testing program-- he couldn't get it to work based on this schematic, so we're still tinkering and trying to figure out where the schematic is failing us. If we can get it to work, I'm going to have new PCBs made in China, and I'll populate them myself. Maybe even offer it as a DIY kit for others if there's any interest.

#35 3 years ago
Quoted from pjjj:

What display-segments are not working?

It varies from display to display, and segment to segment within the displays. I tested the individual segments with a 1.5v power supply, and there were only a couple that didn't work in the game that I was able to get to work with the power supply.

Quoted from pjjj:

On the displays:
- If some numbers are not displaying correctly, check the decoder plate, more specifically the 74c42 (IC 8 )
or check the connectors.

I've reflowed everything. I suspect it's that IC that has failed on these. Like I said, I swapped them around, and they did the same thing in each position, so that leads me to believe that the problem is in the display, and not in the decoder board or wiring.

Quoted from pjjj:

- If some segments are stuck a) check the soldered contacts from the main pcb to the display units. I had some JR (jolly rotten) solder contacts. no good flux / solder was used back in '78
Just a blob of solder was put on to connect those, no wire. See picture below where to check. Apply a bit of force (with a plastic tool) on the connection's to find a rotten solder contact.

No stuck segments, but I reflowed one of the display boards anyway-- no appreciable change. There were a couple of segments that started working after that, but only a few.

Quoted from pjjj:

b) If this does not help... see if the 4511 decodes correcly (with the logic measurement pin in the machine) depending on this replace the 4511, (cut out, remove pins, solder in socket and add new 4511).
Suc6 !

I already had that on my list to do. I don't really know how, but I do have a logic probe.

5 months later
#47 2 years ago

Congrats! Love my Last Lap. It's a little finicky (the connectors they used were garbage) and I had to make a backglass for it (which took me dozens of hours of work in photoshop).

#51 2 years ago
Quoted from Raff:

The light sockets they used are rubbish .There was 2 light sockets causing the fuse to blow because they were shorting out.
The clear coat they used on the Playfield is good this playfield looks like it just came out of the factory.
The roll over switches are held together by pivot and weaken over time and start to fall apart but it's a easy fix drill the pivots out and replace with screws. I have worked on a fandago and a conquest and they are all great machines to play. I'm after a schematic for this last lap .
Raff

It’s more of a plastic than a clear coat- think early version of a hard top.

If you come across an actual schematic, keep me in mind. I’ve not found a proper one.

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