(Topic ID: 196818)

Playmatic, How good are their pinball machines?

By Grayman_EM

6 years ago


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#1 6 years ago

I am trying to find out anything about Playmatic pinball machines and how good they are made to the other brands. I have located an EM made by them and thought about offering an amount. I have heard talk about how bad Chicago Coin is from some of you and wondered is Playmatic is any better?

#2 6 years ago
Quoted from Grayman_EM:

I am trying to find out anything about Playmatic pinball machines and how good they are made to the other brands. I have located an EM made by them and thought about offering an amount. I have heard talk about how bad Chicago Coin is from some of you and wondered is Playmatic is any better?

I have two CC machines, they are the most reliable out of the 20 here.

Just saying.

Playmatic used Williams parts on several of their machines if I recall correct, most stuff will be easy to find or adaptable, plastics and back glass being the exception of course.

#3 6 years ago

Back in the day, when you encountered new games by all the big brands I always felt Playmatic was playing in the second league. Our local arcade had a Playmatic, The 30s, which I played sometimes. It was kind of okay and I liked the slot machine in the backbox, but most of my 10ps found their way into the Gtb, Wms or B pins.

That said, I haven't played most of them, so if the price is right...

#4 6 years ago

The only problem is getting used to those square bumpers.

Square Bumpers00202_crTznALMYjD_1200x900 (resized).jpgSquare Bumpers00202_crTznALMYjD_1200x900 (resized).jpg

2 months later
#5 6 years ago

Oooh that's New World. Is it still for sale? I want it. I currently own Conquest, the single player version and this game rocks. I dropped a power ball in my game and it plays so damn fast. Game has a skill shot, super fast spinners, drop targets, and a sweet right return shot through the spinner that is so satisfying to hit. Let me know if it's still for sale.

#6 6 years ago

Square pops are the best part! I'm still looking for a fiesta or fandango. The artwork is the draw for me.

10
#7 6 years ago

I have worked on both Fiesta and Fandango. When working, Playmatic games are fun to play. Playfields are always in pristine condition because they are all clear coated from the factory.

Pros:

Uses clones of mostly Williams assemblies and a few Gottlieb ones too.

Clear coated playfields.

Cons:

Bad light sockets. The sockets they used are all literally falling apart now. Be prepared to replace a bunch of light sockets throughout the machine. I had a Fiesta come in for service which had the light socket in the square pop bumper short circuit and melt some wires before it blew the fuse. On that machine I also had to replace 25 light sockets that had fallen apart beyond repairing them.

Coil wrappers. Invest in a roll of double sided Scotch tape. Many of the coil wrappers fall off because of the poor glue they used. Pay particular attention to the coil wrappers on the relays because when the wrapper falls off, it can jam in the relay armature and/or relay contacts causing problems.

Metric hardware. Every screw, nut, and bolt are metric.

Square pop bumpers that are sort of like Gottlieb assemblies. Zero parts are available for these. If the skirts are chewed up, your only choice is to convert the assemblies to all Gottlieb or all Williams parts. You'll also need to install Gottlieb pop bumper spoon switch assemblies too.

Playfield switch assemblies. The switch assemblies on the playfield use riveted together parts. Somehow, the factory over-crimped the rivets causing the ends of the rivets to shear off over time. This causes the switches to literally fall apart. You have to drill out or punch out the rivets, thread the holes in the brackets to 6-32 threads and install 6-32 machine screws in whatever length is needed for the particular switch thickness. Picture of a repaired target switch added.

Flipper assemblies. This is a really weird unit. Sort of a cross between a Williams EM and a Zizzle toy pinball. The Playmatic flipper assembly uses a large modern style sized flipper coil. Take my advise and convert the flippers to full Williams system 11 assemblies and reuse the Playmatic flipper coil in it. I've added a picture of the original Playmatic flipper assembly (this is a left flipper unit).

Invest in some time to fix the problems I mention above and the game will be reliable and fun to play.

DSCF2683 (resized).JPGDSCF2683 (resized).JPG
Fiesta left flipper (resized).JPGFiesta left flipper (resized).JPG

2 years later
#8 4 years ago

Here's a ball trough switch I repaired. I drilled out the broken rivets then re-threaded the holes in the switch mounting plate to 6-32. I used some 6-32 screws of the appropriate length (I think it was 5/8" long going from what I remember) to go through the switch stack and into the plate.
Fiesta trough switch (resized).JPGFiesta trough switch (resized).JPG

1 week later
#9 3 years ago

In England, back in the day, it was not uncommon to encounter these in the 70s and 80s in arcades. Sort of fun, but not on the same level as the big three IMO.

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

I have worked on both Fiesta and Fandango. When working, Playmatic games are fun to play. Playfields are always in pristine condition because they are all clear coated from the factory.
Pros:
Uses clones of mostly Williams assemblies and a few Gottlieb ones too.
Clear coated playfields.
Cons:
Bad light sockets. The sockets they used are all literally falling apart now. Be prepared to replace a bunch of light sockets throughout the machine. I had a Fiesta come in for service which had the light socket in the square pop bumper short circuit and melt some wires before it blew the fuse. On that machine I also had to replace 25 light sockets that had fallen apart beyond repairing them.
Coil wrappers. Invest in a roll of double sided Scotch tape. Many of the coil wrappers fall off because of the poor glue they used. Pay particular attention to the coil wrappers on the relays because when the wrapper falls off, it can jam in the relay armature and/or relay contacts causing problems.
Metric hardware. Every screw, nut, and bolt are metric.
Square pop bumpers that are sort of like Gottlieb assemblies. Zero parts are available for these. If the skirts are chewed up, your only choice is to convert the assemblies to all Gottlieb or all Williams parts. You'll also need to install Gottlieb pop bumper spoon switch assemblies too.
Playfield switch assemblies. The switch assemblies on the playfield use riveted together parts. Somehow, the factory over-crimped the rivets causing the ends of the rivets to shear off over time. This causes the switches to literally fall apart. You have to drill out or punch out the rivets, thread the holes in the brackets to 6-32 threads and install 6-32 machine screws in whatever length is needed for the particular switch thickness. Picture of a repaired target switch added.
Flipper assemblies. This is a really weird unit. Sort of a cross between a Williams EM and a Zizzle toy pinball. The Playmatic flipper assembly uses a large modern style sized flipper coil. Take my advise and convert the flippers to full Williams system 11 assemblies and reuse the Playmatic flipper coil in it. I've added a picture of the original Playmatic flipper assembly (this is a left flipper unit).
Invest in some time to fix the problems I mention above and the game will be reliable and fun to play.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Pros= 3 lines

Cons= 41 lines.

Thanks Ken for the thorough review. (Note to self.....cancel... 2 ... hour ... trip ...to ... purchase... Playmatic ...pin).

#11 3 years ago

I have a Fiesta, its a great fast playing game. I dunno what game you turned down, but the fandango and fiestas have great artwork and for a quick game its a great EM. Gets played a lot at my house. Pluse they are always in good shape with their playfields clearcoat.

#12 3 years ago

I will buy more Playmatics. I own a Conquest and a project New World. My Conquest gets a ton of play in a 18 game lineup. While the flippers can be challenging to repair, and some of the switches that fall apart due to shoddy pop rivets, the games are nice, especially with the clear coated playfields.

#13 3 years ago

I agree with a previous poster... I think their games are 2nd rate; art for the most part is horrible, and those square bumpers are just hideous. Ken pretty much sums up the inferior parts. So what's to like? Not much, unless you can score one free.

5 months later
#14 3 years ago

I just came across a Playmatic MPU. The one seen on Space Gambler with the white dials (see link). If interested PM me.
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2250&picno=51182

4 months later
#15 3 years ago

I bought a Playmatic “Big Town” recently.
Never had so much work on a pin. (owning 8 )

Due to a former “nitwit- fixing” the machine the MPU got 14V in stead of the max 10 volt .
So ROM, RAM (2x) and CPU were fried, most (but 2) CMOS chips were ok. Soundboard and decoderboard were not functioning too.
The reason : The transistor in the power part was mounted wrong / shortcut between collector and emitter, so the direct rectified voltage of 14V was put on the whole MPU board.

A problem was that diagrams were not (directly) available. I took parts of the other 5 machines with the same MPU (IPDB.org), and brought together my own good diagram set.
Took me about 3 weeks to sort all out, and reverse engineer what part of what diagram to use.

Since the original CPU, as well as the ROM and RAM’s were suitable for 10 volt, but these chips were unobtainable, I converted the MPU to a 5 V system, with 5 V CPU. (original 1802D version is never to be found again)
Used a 2716 in one ROM socket and a wide 6116 RAM in the other.
Adapted the PCB (cut traces and rewire) so all logic was OK again.

Adapted the decoder board so the 5V MPU signals were brought back to 10 V, took the example from the “change” pin.
Fixed some chips on this.

Also fixed display error.

Much effort was put in getting the used connectors OK again. Never seen worse connectors.
Not replaceable, no alternative, just clean and adjust one by one.

What do I like about this playmatic:
The playfield. Absolutely as new after 43 yrs. Backglass is in fine shape.
The used technique in controlling the lights with SCR’s.
Cleverly done, 2 bulbs on a single SCR, driven by phase-synchronized interrupt on the CPU.

What is “not so good”: As written before, all rivets fall apart (switches, fuse holders, etc) , bulb fittings fall apart, the flipper assemblies are crap, connector are bad-bad-bad. Wood quality of most parts of the cabinet is not so good… ( chipboard.... no plywood) .

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I have two CC machines, they are the most reliable out of the 20 here.
Just saying.

Yep. Built like a tank. When the score reels on my Hula-Hula reset they sound like a machine gun.

They only built only one or two pinballs most years and it seems like the engineers treated it like a welcome distraction from the usual CC gun and arcade machines.

#17 3 years ago

I've got a Jolly Ride Single-Player single player version that still needs to be restored. Picked it up this fall. And as many have already stated, playfield looks unscathed except for the loads of dirt and debris on top. Back glass seems good. Lower cab is swollen (chip board) and flaking bad. Both underside of playfield and lower control board all look in great condition.

Really excited to get to this one.

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from pjjj:

I bought a Playmatic “Big Town” recently.
Never had so much work on a pin. (owning 8 )
Due to a former “nitwit- fixing” the machine the MPU got 14V in stead of the max 10 volt .
So ROM, RAM (2x) and CPU were fried, most (but 2) CMOS chips were ok. Soundboard and decoderboard were not functioning too.
The reason : The transistor in the power part was mounted wrong / shortcut between collector and emitter, so the direct rectified voltage of 14V was put on the whole MPU board.
A problem was that diagrams were not (directly) available. I took parts of the other 5 machines with the same MPU (IPDB.org), and brought together my own good diagram set.
Took me about 3 weeks to sort all out, and reverse engineer what part of what diagram to use.
Since the original CPU, as well as the ROM and RAM’s were suitable for 10 volt, but these chips were unobtainable, I converted the MPU to a 5 V system, with 5 V CPU. (original 1802D version is never to be found again)
Used a 2716 in one ROM socket and a wide 6116 RAM in the other.
Adapted the PCB (cut traces and rewire) so all logic was OK again.
Adapted the decoder board so the 5V MPU signals were brought back to 10 V, took the example from the “change” pin.
Fixed some chips on this.
Also fixed display error.
Much effort was put in getting the used connectors OK again. Never seen worse connectors.
Not replaceable, no alternative, just clean and adjust one by one.
What do I like about this playmatic:
The playfield. Absolutely as new after 43 yrs. Backglass is in fine shape.
The used technique in controlling the lights with SCR’s.
Cleverly done, 2 bulbs on a single SCR, driven by phase-synchronized interrupt on the CPU.
What is “not so good”: As written before, all rivets fall apart (switches, fuse holders, etc) , bulb fittings fall apart, the flipper assemblies are crap, connector are bad-bad-bad. Wood quality of most parts of the cabinet is not so good… ( chipboard.... no plywood) .

Check out my post on converting Playmatic flippers to Williams flippers.

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

I've got a Jolly Ride Single-Player single player version that still needs to be restored. Picked it up this fall. And as many have already stated, playfield looks unscathed except for the loads of dirt and debris on top. Back glass seems good. Lower cab is swollen (chip board) and flaking bad. Both underside of playfield and lower control board all look in great condition.
Really excited to get to this one.

I have the schematics for that one if you need them.

Is your backglass actual glass? Mine is plastic. Also, the design on my head doesn't match the design on the body. I'm not complaining though, the machine is a crazy nice HUO.

16117653493031694304015 (resized).jpg16117653493031694304015 (resized).jpg
#20 3 years ago

The Playmatic machines I have seen have particle board cabinets. So if the machines have been stored poorly (damp conditions), the cabinets could be falling apart or disintegrating. On 2 or 4 player machines especially, the "pedestal" which supports the backbox is made of particle board and is prone to falling apart enough to cause the backbox to snap off! If you get a Playmatic machine, take the backbox off and duplicate a new pedestal out of plywood (it just screws on). You'll be glad you did. Then reinstall the backbox.

#21 3 years ago
Quoted from pjjj:

Also fixed display error.

Tell me more! I'm currently dealing with display issues on my Last Lap. Trying to reverse engineer the displays, have new boards made, and start fresh with modern components, but it's slow going.

Quoted from pjjj:

Much effort was put in getting the used connectors OK again. Never seen worse connectors.
Not replaceable, no alternative, just clean and adjust one by one.

I combed the globe for replacement connectors and was unsuccessful. My originals were crumbling. I ended up soldering individual molex connectors directly to the pins on the MPU, insulating them with double layers of shrink tube, and running pigtails to a modern molex connector. It's ugly, but it got the game to be functional and reliable--aside from the issue with the displays mentioned above.

Quoted from KenLayton:

The Playmatic machines I have seen have particle board cabinets. So if the machines have been stored poorly (damp conditions), the cabinets could be falling apart or disintegrating.

Yup. simply awful materials used. I ended up rebuilding the head with new wood, as the particle board was crumbling away to nothing. The cabinet itself is fine on mine.

#22 3 years ago

Do you have any pictures of the connectors Playmatic used on their electronic machines? I've only worked on their EM models not any electronic ones.

#23 3 years ago

Ken-

See attached. It's an unusual connector. Header pins are round, and 1.5mm (.059 inch) in diameter. Center to center, the pins are 4.96mm (.195 inch) apart.

The connectors from the cabinet to the head are standard Jones plugs, albeit the absolute worst quality ones I've ever seen. I replaced them with old EM ones from my stash.

playmatic connector (resized).jpgplaymatic connector (resized).jpg
#24 3 years ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

I have the schematics for that one if you need them.
Is your backglass actual glass? Mine is plastic. Also, the design on my head doesn't match the design on the body. I'm not complaining though, the machine is a crazy nice HUO.[quoted image]

Wow! That is a beauty. How long have you had it? Schematics would be fantastic as what I had was damaged beyond salvaging from mice. They made quite the nest with it. The head on yours looks to be swapped as mine matches the body. Back glass I want to say is plastic, but I can't say for sure. I put it away in storage towards the end of the year and haven't been able to dive into it much other then a thorough vacuuming. Couldn't find a pic of the head.

IMG_4923 (resized).JPGIMG_4923 (resized).JPGIMG_4908 (resized).JPGIMG_4908 (resized).JPGIMG_4915 (resized).JPGIMG_4915 (resized).JPGIMG_4935 (resized).JPGIMG_4935 (resized).JPGIMG_4934 (resized).JPGIMG_4934 (resized).JPGIMG_4933 (resized).JPGIMG_4933 (resized).JPG
#25 3 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

Wow! That is a beauty. How long have you had it? Schematics would be fantastic as what I had was damaged beyond salvaging from mice. They made quite the nest with it. The head on yours looks to be swapped as mine matches the body. Back glass I want to say is plastic, but I can't say for sure. I put it away in storage towards the end of the year and haven't been able to dive into it much other then a thorough vacuuming. Couldn't find a pic of the head.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks, I just got my Jolly Ride in September. Real nice guy from Long Island posted it on Pinside. He's not a big pinball guy, but had the machine since he was 15. Had to do a double take when I saw the ad.

I bet that playfield cleans up nice, and the underside looks great. Looks like you'll have to come up with some kind of cabinet plan though.

I'll scan or take a pic of the schematics when I get a chance. I forget how large they are, might fit on a copy machine at work.

#26 3 years ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

Thanks, I just got my Jolly Ride in September. Real nice guy from Long Island posted it on Pinside. He's not a big pinball guy, but had the machine since he was 15. Had to do a double take when I saw the ad.
I bet that playfield cleans up nice, and the underside looks great. Looks like you'll have to come up with some kind of cabinet plan though.
I'll scan or take a pic of the schematics when I get a chance. I forget how large they are, might fit on a copy machine at work.

That would be great. Thanks

#27 3 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

That would be great. Thanks

No problem, it's a good size. Don't think it will fit on the scanner at work....

Can also download here (pic might be higher res)....

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m3LwgqpWlyHw4tKEtp6nA0E5l4RLqeP4/view?usp=sharing

20210127_194037 (resized).jpg20210127_194037 (resized).jpg

#28 3 years ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

Ken-
See attached. It's an unusual connector. Header pins are round, and 1.5mm (.059 inch) in diameter. Center to center, the pins are 4.96mm (.195 inch) apart.
The connectors from the cabinet to the head are standard Jones plugs, albeit the absolute worst quality ones I've ever seen. I replaced them with old EM ones from my stash.
[quoted image]

Looks like connectors that were used between circuit boards or modules in television sets of the time period.

1 week later
#29 3 years ago

drsfmd

What playmatic do you have ? (with an MPU 1 or other ?)
My Problems were in driver chip and bad contacts on the 7 segm. units

On MPU-1series the 7 segment unit is made of 2 pcs. NSN738 modules . (hard or impossible to get)

The match and game display is made of standard 7 segment units. (easier to obtain)

Display Driver (resized).pngDisplay Driver (resized).pngdisplay-units(4pcs) (1) (resized).JPGdisplay-units(4pcs) (1) (resized).JPGdisplay-units(4pcs) (2) (resized).JPGdisplay-units(4pcs) (2) (resized).JPGmodule Match & Game display (resized).jpgmodule Match & Game display (resized).jpg
#30 3 years ago

Mine is a Last Lap. The displays look just like the photo you posted. I'm not sure where the problem lies with mine, but there are some burned out segments in the actual displays (I've tested them). When I swap displays around, the displays show the same problems each time, so I suspect the chips may be bad.

I have the same schematic you posted, and an electrical engineer friend re-drew it in some testing program-- he couldn't get it to work based on this schematic, so we're still tinkering and trying to figure out where the schematic is failing us. If we can get it to work, I'm going to have new PCBs made in China, and I'll populate them myself. Maybe even offer it as a DIY kit for others if there's any interest.

#31 3 years ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

No problem, it's a good size. Don't think it will fit on the scanner at work....
Can also download here (pic might be higher res)....
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m3LwgqpWlyHw4tKEtp6nA0E5l4RLqeP4/view?usp=sharing
[quoted image]

Thank you for this.

#32 3 years ago

DOC
drsfmd

Quoted from drsfmd:

.......... but there are some burned out segments in the actual displays (I've tested them). When I swap displays around, the displays show the same problems each time, so I suspect the chips may be bad.
I have the same schematic you posted, and an electrical engineer friend re-drew it in some testing program-- he couldn't get it to work based on this schematic, so we're still tinkering and trying to figure out where the schematic is failing us. If we can get it to work, I'm going to have new PCBs made in China, and I'll populate them myself. Maybe even offer it as a DIY kit for others if there's any interest.

Last-Lap is indeed a MPU-1, so the same.
Actually the "Last-Lap" ROM is the same as the Big-Town (the one i own)
Displays schematic fits the chip-logic (simple 4511 Binary - coded decimal (BCD) to 7 segment decoder)

What display-segments are not working?

On the displays:
- If some numbers are not displaying correctly, check the decoder plate, more specifically the 74c42 (IC 8 )
or check the connectors.

- If some segments are stuck
a) check the soldered contacts from the main pcb to the display units. I had some JR (jolly rotten) solder contacts. no good flux / solder was used back in '78
Just a blob of solder was put on to connect those, no wire. See picture below where to check. Apply a bit of force (with a plastic tool) on the connection's to find a rotten solder contact.
b) If this does not help... see if the 4511 decodes correcly (with the logic measurement pin in the machine) depending on this replace the 4511, (cut out, remove pins, solder in socket and add new 4511).

Suc6 !
crackin contact (resized).jpgcrackin contact (resized).jpg

#33 3 years ago

I found a modern replacement for the utterly stupid connectors and headers they used on my 1978 Playmatic Chance.

Molex KK 508 Series. More info in the other thread if anyone needs it...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacement-10-circuit-connectors#post-6116654

IMG_0975 (resized).jpgIMG_0975 (resized).jpgIMG_0976 (resized).jpgIMG_0976 (resized).jpg50910036243_28547e47aa_o (resized).jpg50910036243_28547e47aa_o (resized).jpg50910856297_5b5d80f72f_o (resized).jpg50910856297_5b5d80f72f_o (resized).jpg50910036238_0bc22169ef_o (resized).jpg50910036238_0bc22169ef_o (resized).jpg
#34 3 years ago
Quoted from ChanceKJ:

I found a modern replacement for the utterly stupid connectors and headers they used on my 1978 Playmatic Chance.
Molex KK 508 Series. More info in the other thread if anyone needs it...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacement-10-circuit-connectors#post-6116654[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow.
Very good! You thread and pic's are saved here.

Had'nt seen it before, else i would have done the same, but all works now fine here.

PS.
Consider replacing this cap on yr decoder board, mine wentour in a hissing plume of acid smoke, had to clean all acid from the boards....

replace cap (resized).jpgreplace cap (resized).jpg
#35 3 years ago
Quoted from pjjj:

What display-segments are not working?

It varies from display to display, and segment to segment within the displays. I tested the individual segments with a 1.5v power supply, and there were only a couple that didn't work in the game that I was able to get to work with the power supply.

Quoted from pjjj:

On the displays:
- If some numbers are not displaying correctly, check the decoder plate, more specifically the 74c42 (IC 8 )
or check the connectors.

I've reflowed everything. I suspect it's that IC that has failed on these. Like I said, I swapped them around, and they did the same thing in each position, so that leads me to believe that the problem is in the display, and not in the decoder board or wiring.

Quoted from pjjj:

- If some segments are stuck a) check the soldered contacts from the main pcb to the display units. I had some JR (jolly rotten) solder contacts. no good flux / solder was used back in '78
Just a blob of solder was put on to connect those, no wire. See picture below where to check. Apply a bit of force (with a plastic tool) on the connection's to find a rotten solder contact.

No stuck segments, but I reflowed one of the display boards anyway-- no appreciable change. There were a couple of segments that started working after that, but only a few.

Quoted from pjjj:

b) If this does not help... see if the 4511 decodes correcly (with the logic measurement pin in the machine) depending on this replace the 4511, (cut out, remove pins, solder in socket and add new 4511).
Suc6 !

I already had that on my list to do. I don't really know how, but I do have a logic probe.

#36 3 years ago

I had a TON of non-working segments in my displays. 95% of it came down to the pins in the connectors. those stupid little split pins in the original connectors would break in half, so it fooled me into thinking that they were still making contact. Once I replaced everything with the new Molex I ended up having only one single digit I needed to replace an IC on.

#37 3 years ago
Quoted from ChanceKJ:

I had a TON of non-working segments in my displays. 95% of it came down to the pins in the connectors. ,,,,,,,,,, Once I replaced everything with the new Molex I ended up having only one single digit I needed to replace an IC on.

Simplifiing the connector replacement on the decoder board: .........32 connector pins less....
On the decoderboard some signals are made/used 5 times.
For the MPU1 Series (Big-Town, Last Lap etc) There are 30 unique signals, but a lot more pins.....
The signal connector pins L1 - L8 (= N1 - N8) occur 5 times on the board... so if you tie up all N1/L1 - N8/L8 together and bring it to one connector on the decoder board.... It can save a lot of connector pins.. and work.

decoder board-l1-l8 (resized).jpgdecoder board-l1-l8 (resized).jpg

#38 3 years ago

Also these connectors can be used.
I replaced the power connector (with screws) using these.

manifacturer PTR type is AK130 .......... (Do not use the '47 type's )
connectors (resized).jpgconnectors (resized).jpgconnectors on playmatic (1) (resized).jpgconnectors on playmatic (1) (resized).jpg

connectors on playmatic (3) (resized).jpgconnectors on playmatic (3) (resized).jpg
5 months later
#39 2 years ago

Just picked up a playmatic Last lap the only problem
It is missing the pedestal" which supports the backbox
I'm going to make one up any one have the measurements for it. Thanks in advance.
Raff

#40 2 years ago
Quoted from Raff:

Just picked up a playmatic Last lap the only problem
It is missing the pedestal" which supports the backbox
I'm going to make one up any one have the measurements for it. Thanks in advance.
Raff

If it's the same as Jolly Ride I can send pics and measurements if you'd like. Haven't put it back together yet after Pinfest, so would be super easy.

#41 2 years ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

I can send pics and measurements

That would be great thanks.
Raff

#42 2 years ago

No problem, first a few pictures...

16278258813292800013445388319263 (resized).jpg16278258813292800013445388319263 (resized).jpg16278258640532765458486273076530 (resized).jpg16278258640532765458486273076530 (resized).jpg

16278259601527624951521579140488 (resized).jpg16278259601527624951521579140488 (resized).jpg

16278260163817603008512407684081 (resized).jpg16278260163817603008512407684081 (resized).jpg
#43 2 years ago

The thickness of all the "wood" is 2cm
Total width 50.2cm
Total length 20.3cm
Front height 6.1cm
Rear height 4.4cm
Gap between board right to left 8.5cm 25cm 8.5cm
Center of cord cutout from end, inside 15.8cm outside 15cm
Center of dowels from from 11cm

Please let me know if you need anything else. Congrats on the new game!

#44 2 years ago

Thanks jaytrem for helping out.
Raff.

#45 2 years ago

Congrats on the new pin Raff. With jaytrems excellent measurements you should be able to knock up a new pedestal easily. Post some pics of the new one you make. Have fun

#46 2 years ago

16278966216582245669109735147947 (resized).jpg16278966216582245669109735147947 (resized).jpg
20210802_184053 (resized).jpg20210802_184053 (resized).jpg
Completed thanks Jaytrem again.
Thanks Hyperball91.
Raff

#47 2 years ago

Congrats! Love my Last Lap. It's a little finicky (the connectors they used were garbage) and I had to make a backglass for it (which took me dozens of hours of work in photoshop).

#48 2 years ago

Glad to help.

Game and pedestal look great!

#49 2 years ago

Great info on Playmatic games. Back in the 70s, we had one SS Playmatic, Big Town. No problems with that since it was relatively new.

On EM Playmatics, the relay bank (if present) was often causing problems. You had to make sure everything was clean and not sprayed with WD40. But generally they were OK games.

#50 2 years ago

The light sockets they used are rubbish .There was 2 light sockets causing the fuse to blow because they were shorting out.
The clear coat they used on the Playfield is good this playfield looks like it just came out of the factory.
The roll over switches are held together by pivot and weaken over time and start to fall apart but it's a easy fix drill the pivots out and replace with screws. I have worked on a fandago and a conquest and they are all great machines to play. I'm after a schematic for this last lap .
Raff

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