(Topic ID: 225479)

Playmatic Conquest Relay Locking On - RESOLVED

By djreddog

5 years ago


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  • 11 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by djreddog
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#1 5 years ago

I have a Playmatic Conquest, with no schematics. Actually, I have partial schematics (9 out of 10 pages). I'm hoping and looking for general advice on what to look for or what possibly to troubleshoot for my switch locking on. I've narrowed it down to when either pop bumper is activated a switch stack locks on underneath the playfield. I've attached pictures of the switch, one when it is in the normal position and one locked on. I've cleaned the switch contacts, but that didn't seem to do anything. The only other thing I can provide is that when I make switch #2 activate on the switch stack, it moves the match reel with no issues. If I activate any other switch, it locks on. Again, I know schematics are usually everything, but I'm hoping for some general advice to try and work my way through this problem. Attaches are the pictures which are labeled.
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#2 5 years ago

Those switches need to be filed and adjusted bad. That middle one has a gap so big you could drive a truck through it!

#3 5 years ago
Quoted from djreddog:

when either pop bumper is activated a switch stack locks on

Does it happen with both pop bumpers or only one?

Playmatic Conquest.pdfPlaymatic Conquest.pdf
#4 5 years ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Does it happen with both pop bumpers or only one?
[quoted image]

Happens with both pops. If I turn on the game, press start, and then activate either pop it will do everything it should just one time, meaning it will score, ring the chime, and pop, but instantly lock up the switch stack.

#5 5 years ago

The simplest thing to check is the End-Of-Stroke switches on the pop bumpers

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from HowardR:

The simplest thing to check is the End-Of-Stroke switches on the pop bumpers

Haven’t checked that yet but will for sure. Although I do have a question for you as I try and get a grasp on the innards of EM’s. I can get the switch stack to lock up without actually pressing the pop bumpers or the switches that control the pop bumpers. If I take a pencil and activate any of the switches on the switch stack itself, with the exception of switch #2, the stack locks up. I’m trying to see if that really has any correlation on the EOS switches for the pop bumpers.

#7 5 years ago

What research have you done to try and answer your question?

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from HowardR:

What research have you done to try and answer your question?

Nothing additional other than what I posted above.

#9 5 years ago

Hi Dog,

Can you get me a wider photo of which switch stack that is or what is is called from the label and I will check mine.

I can not work it out from your photo.

Mine has been playing well. I even got it into the lineup for the Brisbane Masters comp where some of the top players in Australia got to play it. It was pretty well received and no one got near my high score on it.

Cheers,

Steven

#10 5 years ago

When the relay(switch stack as I called it) locks on, the pop bumper chime goes off and score is added to Player 1. Other switches continue to operate the score reels fine. However, when the pop bumper is activated it also moves the "100 match unit" up one increment, that locks on as well.

Also I was able to determine the pops have 2 separate switches. The first switch triggers the score and chime, which also “locks on” the relay. The second switch should activate the coil, and that’s not happening on either pop bumper. I only saw 4 total fuses in the game, tested all of them and they are good. Not sure where to go from here. Seems like I’ve narrowed the issue down to the coils for the pop bumpers.

3 weeks later
#11 5 years ago

Update - Resoved, sort of.

After using a jumper cable to test everything, which included all of the switches on the relay, both switches on the pop bumpers, and the coils themselves, we were able to narrow it down to the grey wire(negative) connected to the 2 pop bumpers. For some reason that wire wasn’t feeding current to the relay, which in turn is supposed to fire the coil on the pop bumper. Also through all of this testing we were able to determine that everything was been run off of the 28V option. By moving the jumper pin to the 30V connection, this gave us a working pop bumper and relay.

Bonus - by moving the jumper to the 30V connection, the game now has snappier pop bumpers and stronger flippers, something I’ve been trying to adjust for over a year!

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