(Topic ID: 223660)

Playmatic Conquest 200 Flipper help

By djreddog

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by KenLayton
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 5 years ago

I have a Conquest 200, made by Playmatic, a company from Spain. Parts are usually hard to find although several people have mentioned that the company used parts from either Bally/Williams/Gottlieb. My left flipper button switch simply fell apart, I’m guessing from old age. Pictures attached.

My question is, are these universal parts? What exactly do I need to fix this? And sorry, I know very little about EM’s

PS - one photo shows the right flipper fully intact.
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#2 5 years ago

I'd imagine you could use any EM flipper switch pretty easily. Not much compatibility to worry about. Usually they just screw right through the stack though, no little metal offset thing like that.

#3 5 years ago

I've gone through this very problem many times on Playmatic machines. The problem is that the factory fastened the rivets *TOO* hard through the switch into the bracket. Thus, after a while, the heads of the rivets would break out of the switch mounting plate. What you do is get a 6-32 tap and thread the two closely spaced holes (the ones the switch was attached with) to 6-32 threads. Now get a small punch or drill bit and either punch/drill out the rest of the rivets inside the switch. Then you can screw the switch to the mounting plate. If the screws are a tad bit too long, you can countersink a couple of 1/8" deep holes in the wood cabinet and the screws will clear. This way the switch looks original, sits correctly, and generally does not need any adjustments.

You'll probably find other playfield switches that have fallen apart too like standup switches and target switches. I keep just three sizes of 6-32 screw lengths handy for Playmatic repairs: 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4". For standup targets simply put a nut and bolt through it to hold the switch to the bracket.

Fiesta flip sw (resized).JPGFiesta flip sw (resized).JPGFiesta roll sw (resized).JPGFiesta roll sw (resized).JPGFiesta target switch repaired (resized).JPGFiesta target switch repaired (resized).JPGPlaymatic plate holes threaded (resized).JPGPlaymatic plate holes threaded (resized).JPG

Fiesta flipper and start sw plate (resized).JPGFiesta flipper and start sw plate (resized).JPGFiesta plate (resized).JPGFiesta plate (resized).JPG

#4 5 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

I've gone through this very problem many times on Playmatic machines. The problem is that the factory fastened the rivets *TOO* hard through the switch into the bracket. Thus, after a while, the heads of the rivets would break out of the switch mounting plate. What you do is get a 6-32 tap and thread the two closely spaced holes (the ones the switch was attached with) to 6-32 threads. Now get a small punch or drill bit and either punch/drill out the rest of the rivets inside the switch. Then you can screw the switch to the mounting plate. If the screws are a tad bit too long, you can countersink a couple of 1/8" deep holes in the wood cabinet and the screws will clear. This way the switch looks original, sits correctly, and generally does not need any adjustments.
You'll probably find other playfield switches that have fallen apart too like standup switches and target switches. I keep just three sizes of 6-32 screw lengths handy for Playmatic repairs: 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4". For standup targets simply put a nut and bolt through it to hold the switch to the bracket.
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Bought a tap and die set tonight. Going to attempt this over tomorrow night hopefully. Thanks for the advice and pictures.

#5 5 years ago

Nice explanation with pics Ken. Thank you

#6 5 years ago

Got the bracket the screws into the cabinet threaded. Having some trouble drilling out the pop rivet on the switch assembly. Retiring for tonight, will try and resume tomorrow.

#7 5 years ago

I unsolder the switch and put it in the vise. Then it's easy to punch out the rivet with a correct sized pin punch.

#8 5 years ago

I took a slightly different approach and achieved the same results. I wire tied the assembly together then drilled out the rivers. However I couldn’t get the 6-32 screw through for some reason so I used a 4-32 wood screw and drilled it into the cabinet just like the 2 main screws holding the bracket to the cabinet. Thanks for the idea Ken!

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#9 5 years ago

Sometimes I've had to run the 6-32 tap through the holes in the switch after the rivets have been removed.

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