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(Topic ID: 265187)

Playfield Touch-Up Tips Please...


By scampcamp

7 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 24 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 months ago by TheLaw
  • Topic is favorited by 13 Pinsiders

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    #1 7 months ago

    I've read Vids playfield touch up ideas but really didn't see much about how I'd go about matching the colors(if it dries same as wet), which styles of brushes work best, how thick to have it?

    I found this paint at Hobby Lobby.... $28.

    Thanks for any tips!!

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    #2 7 months ago

    Doing touch up on playfields, backglass, cabinets, is a real challenge to match the colors, especially for older games with painted (silk-screened art). Rarely will you ever find any of the premixed colors such as in your example to match the colors in an older game, even the black may not look quite right. I have been touching up games for many years and I have over 100 bottles of water based "hobby" paint and it may take me many, many attempts at mixing the paint and matching a color. I guess you would need to be a gifted painter/artist to be really adept at making colors that match. Good lighting is also critical for color matching.
    After you apply water-based paint to the playfield you must cover it with a clear hard sealer, which made help hide your touch up or make it more obvious. Always deep clean the playfield before doing any touch ups. Matching paint to a dirty playfield is not a good idea.
    Attached is a photo of my Card Whiz playfield. The game was coated with dirt with many areas of missing paint. Spent many hours removing everything from the playfield, cleaning, touch up, reassemble and several coats of Johnson's floor wax.
    Good luck.

    Card Whiz playfield cleaned (resized).png
    #3 7 months ago

    Although for golden paints this may help get you the right direction: https://www.goldenpaints.com/mixer

    Test paint on a piece of glass or Mylar on top of the target colour.

    Thick enough to cover and no more.

    #4 7 months ago
    Quoted from wawhite92025:

    Doing touch up on playfields, backglass, cabinets, is a real challenge to match the colors, especially for older games with painted (silk-screened art). Rarely will you ever find any of the premixed colors such as in your example to match the colors in an older game, even the black may not look quite right. I have been touching up games for many years and I have over 100 bottles of water based "hobby" paint and it may take me many, many attempts at mixing the paint and matching a color. I guess you would need to be a gifted painter/artist to be really adept at making colors that match. Good lighting is also critical for color matching.
    After you apply water-based paint to the playfield you must cover it with a clear hard sealer, which made help hide your touch up or make it more obvious. Always deep clean the playfield before doing any touch ups. Matching paint to a dirty playfield is not a good idea.
    Attached is a photo of my Card Whiz playfield. The game was coated with dirt with many areas of missing paint. Spent many hours removing everything from the playfield, cleaning, touch up, reassemble and several coats of Johnson's floor wax.
    Good luck.[quoted image]

    Thank you so much !

    I do know a guy who has his master's in art. I'll have to invite him over for some grilled burgers etc & see if he'd want to do a few touch-ups.

    Would a good cleaning with Novus 2 & then Naptha be a good way to go before attempting the touch ups?

    #5 7 months ago

    My experience is the Createx paint is a little different when dry, but if it matches when wet it should look good when cleared.

    #6 7 months ago

    Mixing the paint to match the colors is just trial and error. Get it as close as you can knowing that the paint will darken ever so slightly as it dries. When I think I got it close I just dab a little on the same color on the playfield to compare it. If it's off just wipe it off with a wet rag, and repeat.

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    Which brush I use depends on how big the spot is I'm touching up.

    Like Wawhite said above you definitely want to lay clear over your touchups to preserve, and protect your work.
    IMG_20191110_195431122 (resized).jpg

    -Paul

    #7 7 months ago

    It takes practice, and in many cases simply having an eye for it. Like others I have been doing this for many years, and have gotten much better, but sometimes it still takes me a few tries.

    Tip: get a sheet of clear plastic (if you have a tap plastics, check their scrap bin. A 12" square piece of scrap is usually a buck, and more often than not they will give it to you). Mix the paint, dry it, and hold it over the area you are working on to see if it matches.

    #8 7 months ago

    Color mixing is trial and error as the guy above said, I don't think even a professional painter could do the exact mix on the first try. I am doing my AFM and I am happy with the results.

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    #9 7 months ago

    If you're using CREATEX, and I absolutely love their colors, for both airbrushing and manual application, make sure you give the application at least an overnight time frame to dry prior to clearing...

    I sent pix and an explanation to the Createx Tech engineers on a paint bleed issue I had experienced - and their reply was that the only way that would happen was that the sprayed color hadn't set up long enough. I used a blow dryer to set the color prior to clearing - in retrospect I should have let it totally set overnight prior to clearing.

    They also recommended using their WICKED or AUTO AIR color line as a better alternative to the AIRBRUSH color line. One pinsider mentioned that the WICKED line has less of a pigment load, at least in the RED color spectrum so keep that in mind.

    #10 7 months ago
    Quoted from Dono:

    If you're using CREATEX, and I absolutely love their colors, for both airbrushing and manual application, make sure you give the application at least an overnight time frame to dry prior to clearing...
    I sent pix and an explanation to the Createx Tech engineers on a paint bleed issue I had experienced - and their reply was that the only way that would happen was that the sprayed color hadn't set up long enough. I used a blow dryer to set the color prior to clearing - in retrospect I should have let it totally set overnight prior to clearing.
    They also recommended using their WICKED or AUTO AIR color line as a better alternative to the AIRBRUSH color line. One pinsider mentioned that the WICKED line has less of a pigment load, at least in the RED color spectrum so keep that in mind.

    Thank you.... some confusion... so.. is the paint I pictured ok to use with a brush?

    Also... is WICKED a different paint altogether?

    #11 7 months ago
    Quoted from scampcamp:

    Thank you.... some confusion... so.. is the paint I pictured ok to use with a brush?
    Also... is WICKED a different paint altogether?

    yes, just make sure the paint is completely dry prior to clearing... if you set the paint with a hair dryer or heat gun, you still need to give it time to completely set; to be safe I let dry overnight. According to The Createx folks - their WICKED colors have a smaller dry time window but I didn't get details on how the dry-time windows of each compares.

    It's also safe practice to apply your clear with a few "dry" coats first, allowing each layer to set up prior to spraying wet coats.

    I love createx paints and continue to use them without issue.

    #12 7 months ago

    Just to be clear, WICKED is a CREATEX branded paint.

    #13 7 months ago

    I found the WICKED CREATEX at Hobby Lobby.

    So... using a microfiber cloth with Novus 2 & then use Naptha will get the playfield clean for painting?

    Thanks very much..

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    #14 7 months ago

    Don’t know how well this applies to Createx, but found this video really instructional:

    Walked through a detailed process of how to color match.

    #15 7 months ago

    I use the same paint. If you can’t match the color 100% then paint the whole area. I had to paint all the green on this cheetah to get it right.

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    #16 7 months ago

    I recommend getting a color wheel so you know which direction to pull a color match into when mixing paint.

    Just because a mixed color you make may perfectly match one spot on a playfield, does not mean that it will match a spot somewhere else on a playfield. Colors will vary throughout the playfield.

    #17 7 months ago

    VID has a great guide for this:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration

    Lengthy read but it is indexed and let's face it, what else is going on these days?

    #18 7 months ago

    What are people using for spot clear after they touch up an area...but not clear coat the whole playfield?

    #19 7 months ago
    Quoted from Skidave:

    What are people using for spot clear after they touch up an area...but not clear coat the whole playfield?

    Mylar

    #21 7 months ago

    Two things:

    1) If you’re looking for, or have, a paint match for a pin, please check out the following thread. So far, the vast majority of entries have been mine (I just added one today), but I’m hoping pinsiders will add more to make the thread a searchable mini-database for paint matching, or at least for a place to start in making your own mix. So far one pinsider told me that one of my mixes worked well on his playfield (Spirit of 76). I encourage the OP to look at the beginning of that thread for some background, it may also be of some help. Here’s a link:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-pinside-touch-up-paint-color-thread

    2) I recently bought a used copy of the book “Blue and Yellow Don’t Make Green”
    by Michael Wilcox. It shows the weakness of the traditional color wheel and uses a different approach, and it’s been helpful to me in paint color mixing.
    image (resized).jpg

    1 week later
    #22 6 months ago
    Quoted from cjchand:

    Don’t know how well this applies to Createx, but found this video really instructional:
    Walked through a detailed process of how to color match.

    Amazing process for those of us with no clue. I've been doing it wrong all along!

    #23 6 months ago
    Quoted from wolverinetuner:

    Two things:
    1) If you’re looking for, or have, a paint match for a pin, please check out the following thread. So far, the vast majority of entries have been mine (I just added one today), but I’m hoping pinsiders will add more to make the thread a searchable mini-database for paint matching, or at least for a place to start in making your own mix. So far one pinsider told me that one of my mixes worked well on his playfield (Spirit of 76). I encourage the OP to look at the beginning of that thread for some background, it may also be of some help. Here’s a link:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-pinside-touch-up-paint-color-thread
    2) I recently bought a used copy of the book “Blue and Yellow Don’t Make Green”
    by Michael Wilcox. It shows the weakness of the traditional color wheel and uses a different approach, and it’s been helpful to me in paint color mixing.
    [quoted image]

    Thanks for posting this. Just ordered the book and DVD.

    https://michaelwilcoxschoolofcolour.com/product/blue-and-yellow-dont-make-green/

    #24 6 months ago
    Quoted from tatman9999:

    I use the same paint. If you can’t match the color 100% then paint the whole area. I had to paint all the green on this cheetah to get it right...

    Nice work! I can tell you now that Cadmium Orange is a great match for Classic Stern's orange.

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