(Topic ID: 94408)

Playfield swaps and dimpling

By Freeplay40

9 years ago


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  • 20 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by vid1900
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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Dimples.jpg
#1 9 years ago

Reproduction playfields come with many of the mounting holes pre-drilled. On the underside of the playfield, "dimples" are stamped to identify placement of the stuff that needs to be secured to the bottom of the playfield that was not pre-drilled.

Tip:

While more often than not, the dimpling is pretty accurate. However, do not blindly trust the accuracy of the dimples. Always refer to the original playfield, or in some cases simply question the dimple locations as there may actually be a better position. Attached is a photo of a High Speed swap I'm doing right now. In this case we are looking at where one of the 5 banks of 3 targets will mount. Note where I have actually drilled the mounting holes and where the dimples are. Having run into this problem on prior swaps, I take the time to make sure they will line up perfectly. I did these prior to moving the harness to the new playfield which makes it much easier.

Dimples.jpgDimples.jpg
#2 9 years ago

Excellent advice for sure. Measure twice, drill once.

#3 9 years ago

Definitely place the assembly in position first to line up the best spot before you drill.

#4 9 years ago

NOS playfields are the same way. Very rarely are the drill spots 100% accurate.

That's why when I hear people complaining about the IPB repop playfields not being completely pre-dimpled I always tell then it's a non-issue. I'm out there with calipers and a machinist scale spotting all the holes perfectly on both the top and underside anyway and do not use the "dimples" other than as a ballpark location.

2 months later
#5 9 years ago

Just wanted to bump this old thread. I'm installing a CPR playfield in my high speed currently. What is the best method to compare the dimpling with the actual mounting locations? Do you remember any spots that were bad other than the original post when performing your swap?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is my first repro PF swap.

#6 9 years ago

I had some ugly issues with one of my PF swaps. My solution was to use a template. I did it in sections from the bottom of the playfield. I used a known location for a hole, and took basically tracing paper from the old playfield and transferred it over.

That said, be aware that even the dimpling on the existing original playfields are not all identical, so it's not a precise cut and dried location.

#7 9 years ago

I figure it's got to be safe to trace the old PF and drill the exact same holes? Do you do this on the top and bottom?

#8 9 years ago

You should not really need to drill anything. The CPR playfields should have all of the holes properly placed.
So we are just talking about dimpling. Just a small center punch is all you need. The dimple is just there to make sure you get the fasteners in the right spot, it's not really a pilot hole or anything.

#9 9 years ago

So you don't dill pilot holes for the screws on the bottom of the PF?

#10 9 years ago
Quoted from Deez:

So you don't dill pilot holes for the screws on the bottom of the PF?

I do not.

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from Deez:

So you don't dill pilot holes for the screws on the bottom of the PF?

Never. Not needed since the screws only go in relatively shallowly. And the chance you run of a drill bit punching through the playfield is just not worth it.

#12 9 years ago
Quoted from NJGecko:

fattdirk said:

So you don't dill pilot holes for the screws on the bottom of the PF?

Never. Not needed since the screws only go in relatively shallowly. And the chance you run of a drill bit punching through the playfield is just not worth it.

I'm amazed that the wood doesn't crack, the screws go in much deeper than the dimples.

#13 9 years ago
Quoted from NJGecko:

And the chance you run of a drill bit punching through the playfield is just not worth it.

image_17257.jpgimage_17257.jpg
#14 9 years ago

That's what I use Vid.

#15 9 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

image_17257.jpg 53 KB

In a pinch, you could also use tape and wrap it around the bit a few times. Just don't leave it on there for days on end, otherwise you'll end up with sticky residue on the bit.

#16 9 years ago

On the Flash Gordon swap I am currently doing there are maybe 20% of the dimples even visible on the backside. Lots of measuring and creating my own dimples for installation.

#17 9 years ago

Thanks for the help everyone. I need to place an order for some new t-nuts and gi braid and then I'll be ready to start installing the mechs again. Maybe I"ll verify all the dimpling in the meantime.

#18 9 years ago
Quoted from redmamanora:

Excellent advice for sure. Measure twice, drill once.

I don't know. I have cut it twice and its still to short.

#19 9 years ago
Quoted from Deez:

Thanks for the help everyone. I need to place an order for some new t-nuts and gi braid and then I'll be ready to start installing the mechs again. Maybe I"ll verify all the dimpling in the meantime.

One tip on the High Speed playfield swap. Pay very close attention to the two roll overs in the upper left and right corners. You should have received new loose roll over "stars". If these stars are unable to go down until they are flush with the playfield, the ball trajectory really gets screwed up...especially on the right one. If not down far enough, the orbit shot up the right side will fail. You cannot remove the stars once inserted without risking damage to the roll over insert. To test whether the star will go down far enough to not affect play... First view in your old playfield how the existing star goes down. Next, on the underside of the old playfield, locate the underside of the star and snip off the nub that retains the star in the roll over with a pair of cutters. This will allow you to pop the star out the top of the playfield. Now you can use this star to test in the new playfield to see if it can go down flush AND to make sure it moves freely...you might have to also clean out the "vanes" for the star! Chances are it won't go down far enough. I used a Dremel with a diamond tip grinder in an attempt to clean out any clear coat on the shoulder down in the roll over that the star will impact at its lowest point....this might have helped a little but did not solve the problem.

What I had to do was to use the Dremel, and on the underside of the star, grind away some plastic (about 1/16") of the star vanes around the shaft to get the star to go down far enough.

The star needs to be modified to go down flush with the playfield for those sweet orbit shots.

One other note, the roll overs were never lit from underneath. If you look at the underside of the playfield, you will find GI leads running around both roll overs...Good time to add GI lighting for them.

#20 9 years ago
Quoted from Xenon75:

On the Flash Gordon swap I am currently doing there are maybe 20% of the dimples even visible on the backside. Lots of measuring and creating my own dimples for installation.

If that is one with the heavy gray paint on the back, take some fine sandpaper and the buried dimples will magically appear.

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