(Topic ID: 148298)

Playfield swap without "rotisserie"

By mgpasman

8 years ago


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  • 61 posts
  • 28 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by vid1900
  • Topic is favorited by 22 Pinsiders

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    There are 61 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 8 years ago

    Hi, I am about to attempt my first playfield swap in a BoP. I am looking for tips on doing this without a rotissary. I do have workbench (old Ikea Galant-desk). I was thinking to go like this:

    1. While still in the cabinet, strip the top part of the playfield (plastics, ramps, posts) and store them for later use
    2. Take the playfield out, place it at an angle between desk and wall
    3. Tag/tabel everything below playfield
    4. Unscrew stuff, and (as much as possible) immediately attach to new playfield
    5. Take the whole wire harness with coils and lamps still attached and puzzle it back on the new playfield

    For step 4 and 5 I can see it might be handy to have the playfields flat instead of standing.

    Am I in for a world of pain here?

    #4 8 years ago

    I wouldn't do it. You take a chance of damaging the new PF. It's a risk IMO

    #5 8 years ago

    For years I did several playfield swaps using two chairs as supports.

    The best ones had padded arms that held the playfield perfectly and the were on wheels so you could move the assembly around some if needed. It worked pretty-well.

    Trying to do one with it still in the cabinet would be pretty-ridiculous. It would be like trying to rebuild an entire engine with it still in the car. It would be next to impossible to remove all the wiring, transfer it to the new playfield and re-staple it all without screwing it up.

    #6 8 years ago

    For the $100-$200 it takes to build a rotisserie, it is just not worth the risk of damaging a $500-$2000 playfield (or your chairs, floor, feet, back, children, and pets). Also, it makes it much, much easier to do the swap (saving you time) if you can easily rotate the playfield from front to back when you need to.

    #7 8 years ago

    If you are only going to do one playfield swap though I doubt I would spend the time or money on a rotisserie. They are nice but not an absolute necessity. You just don't want to try swapping one with the playfield still in the cabinet. lol

    I was doing so many though that after a few years I finally broke down and bought a rotisserie. The chairs weren't bad though. I would wheel them right in front of the TV and work on it. Then when I needed a break I would just wheel it out of the way and come back to it later. I never damaged a playfield or the chairs but it took more effort to rotate the playfield.

    It depends on how many you plan to do.

    #8 8 years ago

    I plan to do just the one . Obviously I was not going to do the whole swap inside the cabinet, at step 2 was going to take the old one out, and put old and new next to eachother standing up on my desk. I learned that at least I need something to put them flat. Unfortunately my chairs do not have armrests. I might be able to cook up some kind of "frame", so it can be flat on my desk. Or find an old table frame that has roughly the same size, so I can drop in the playfield and still be able to walk around it.

    Do they often need to be rotated? I think when I get to the point I need to rotate, all wires and assemblies are screwed on the new playfield and I can probably put it back in the cabinet and take it from there?

    #9 8 years ago

    The biggest issue is when the OP says "4. Unscrew stuff, and (as much as possible) immediately attach to new playfield
    5. Take the whole wire harness with coils and lamps still attached and puzzle it back on the new playfield"...which implies that after going through all the work to swap a playfield, he is going to do it without rebuilding or cleaning anything.

    Further, the concept that the coils are left on just makes no sense. They are the heaviest parts and will complicate "puzzling" the harness back onto the playfield.

    I have done dozens of playfield swaps, some with and some without a rotisserie. Recently, I gave up a lot of shop space to gain gameroom space and I don't use the rotisserie any more. Instead, I do as the OP suggested with the top side in the cabinet, remove all the mechanisms off the bottom, and then move the PF to my work bench with the PF supported by ratchet clamps and remove the rest from the bottom. Like this:

    clamped_(resized).jpgclamped_(resized).jpg

    #10 8 years ago
    Quoted from JoeGrenuk:

    The biggest issue is when the OP says "4. Unscrew stuff, and (as much as possible) immediately attach to new playfield
    5. Take the whole wire harness with coils and lamps still attached and puzzle it back on the new playfield"...which implies that after going through all the work to swap a playfield, he is going to do it without rebuilding or cleaning anything.
    Further, the concept that the coils are left on just makes no sense. They are the heaviest parts and will complicate "puzzling" the harness back onto the playfield.

    OK, so I should unsolder the coils. I was going to clean or replace stuff in between, but I did not plan on "rebuilding everything". When I unsolder all coils, it makes it that much easier to do maintenance on the different parts before putting it back on the new PF. In this case the order would be:

    1. Unsolder coils
    2. Unscrew lights
    3. Remove wire harness (with lights, without coils
    4. Remove flipper/bumper/sling assemblies from old PF
    5. Clean/rebuild assemblies
    6. Steps 4, 3, 2, 1 onto the new PF

    #11 8 years ago

    I love the "ghetto-lift" cal50 posted about a year ago: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/post-your-rotisserie-however-you-spell-it#post-1448948 .

    I think I am going ahead with that.

    #12 8 years ago

    I swapped a firepower without a rotisserie and I don't recall having to flip it back and forth too many times. (maybe mounting the pops?) I put the side rails on and kept it face down on clean towels. Once I had the bottom done I repopulated it in the cabinet.

    As for coils, you will know which ones you need to remove. Some will need to be removed just by nature of the wire routing through the playfield. But the rest you can put the harness and coils on foamcore board or heavy cardboard you can slide it off onto the new playfield.

    #13 8 years ago
    Quoted from catboxer:

    I swapped a firepower without a rotisserie and I don't recall having to flip it back and forth too many times. (maybe mounting the pops?) I put the side rails on and kept it face down on clean towels. Once I had the bottom done I repopulated it in the cabinet.

    That's what I did for High Speed and plan to do for Pinbot.

    #14 8 years ago

    One of the most important things to do is get the reese rails installed on the new playfield FIRST THING. You don't want your new playfield flexing and causing clearcoat issues. You want them both screwed and stapled on if possible.

    #15 8 years ago

    No reason to staple.
    Instead of unsoldering coils, clip wires leaving 1/2" or so to make sure of correct wire when reconnecting.

    #16 8 years ago

    You can get through it by using 8 of these, but a rotisserie sure makes it easier http://m.harborfreight.com/6-inch-bar-clamp-96210.html

    #17 8 years ago

    I'm doing one now. I just use 8 small pieces of wood.

    image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

    #18 8 years ago

    Leave the coils and any unenclosed switches attached and put the whole harness in the dishwasher. Pots & Pan cycle. Working with a spotlessly clean harness is next to godliness.

    For one hour of your time and $100, the rotisserie will be the best money you ever spent. It will save you 6 hours of dicking with the playfield, let alone if you are trying to track down a short in the GI upon reassembly. It dissembles flat, or if you don't paint it, you can take 90% of the parts back to the store.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-quick-and-dirty-rotisserie-guide

    da4d28fb08e215633ae3e8237ecb34b3120b2cb2_(resized).jpgda4d28fb08e215633ae3e8237ecb34b3120b2cb2_(resized).jpg

    #19 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Leave the coils and any unenclosed switches attached and put the whole harness in the dishwasher. Pots & Pan cycle. Working with a spotlessly clean harness is next to godliness.
    For one hour of your time and $100, the rotisserie will be the best money you ever spent. It will save you 6 hours of dicking with the playfield, let alone if you are trying to track down a short in the GI upon reassembly. It dissembles flat, or if you don't paint it, you can take 90% of the parts back to the store.

    da4d28fb08e215633ae3e8237ecb34b3120b2cb2_(resized).jpg

    I like the dishwasher for cleaning harnesses. What kind of soap, if any, do you use?

    #20 8 years ago
    Quoted from lyonsden:

    I like the dishwasher for cleaning harnesses. What kind of soap, if any, do you use?

    Liquid Cascade dishwasher detergent.

    Dishwasher soap contains fine sand, so it makes all the switch blades look like new, too. Shake it before you squirt it.

    You can snip all the zip ties and just loosely zip tie it while dishwashing. This will get all the coil dust out between the wires too.

    #21 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Liquid Cascade.
    Dishwasher soap contains fine sand, so it makes all the switch blades look like new, too. Shake it before you squirt it.
    You can snip all the zip ties and just loosely zip tie it while dishwashing. This will get all the coil dust out between the wires too.

    Careful with normal dish soap in the dishwasher or this could happen.

    foam-party-2i3i_(resized).jpgfoam-party-2i3i_(resized).jpg

    I think they put something in the dishwasher liquid that makes it not foam up like crazy.

    #22 8 years ago
    Quoted from barakandl:

    Careful with normal dish soap in the dishwasher or this could happen.

    Ahhh....so that is what happened......

    30000_37000_17407_3700017407CF_(resized).png30000_37000_17407_3700017407CF_(resized).png

    #23 8 years ago
    Quoted from barakandl:

    Careful with normal dish soap in the dishwasher or this could happen.
    foam-party-2i3i_(resized).jpg
    I think they put something in the dishwasher liquid that makes it not foam up like crazy.

    That is how every one of my parties end up. . .

    #24 8 years ago

    Interesting on coils in the dishwasher. I assume with time to dry out they're fine. Ok to put them in ultrasonic as well?

    #25 8 years ago
    Quoted from dmacy:

    Interesting on coils in the dishwasher. I assume with time to dry out they're fine.

    Believe it or not, they come out bone dry straight from the dishwasher.

    #26 8 years ago

    Since we're off topic on the wiring harness, how do you get the big honkin transformer clean?

    #27 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Believe it or not, they come out bone dry straight from the dishwasher.

    Do you use your kitchen dishwasher? If so, is it ready for normal stuff right after?

    #28 8 years ago
    Quoted from tezting:

    Do you use your kitchen dishwasher? If so, is it ready for normal stuff right after?

    Yep, kitchen dishwasher.

    I clean out the screen trap thing at the bottom for any tiny screws or such and it's ready for dirty dishes.

    #29 8 years ago

    What about the coil labels? Do you take them off first? Idea of non grotty harness is tempting for sure...wifey won't mind

    #30 8 years ago
    Quoted from BCpinhead:

    What about the coil labels? Do you take them off first?

    Classic Bally labels stay on, some Williams stay on. The paper aftermarket coil labels usually don't stay stuck, so I pull them.

    If you are guessing, the labels that seem like printed masking tape seem to stay on through the whole cycle.

    #31 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Yep, kitchen dishwasher.
    I clean out the screen trap thing at the bottom for any tiny screws or such and it's ready for dirty dishes.

    Thanks, I will try it.
    But still think it is best for domestic peace to do it when I am home alone

    #32 8 years ago
    Quoted from tezting:

    But still think it is best for domestic peace to do it when I am home alone

    Exactly my thought.

    #33 8 years ago
    Quoted from sniffsnerk:

    I'm doing one now. I just use 8 small pieces of wood.

    image_(resized).jpeg

    That's the way to go, just use 4 clamps to keep them in place (wood can be much shorter also) then flip when needed.

    Easy, cheap, works fine for me.

    #34 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Believe it or not, they come out bone dry straight from the dishwasher.

    You allow the heating element to run? Could that not cause melting or other possible problems?

    #35 8 years ago
    Quoted from JoeJet:

    You allow the heating element to run? Could that not cause melting or other possible problems?

    Plastic cups and bowls don't melt in the dishwasher, so it probably does not get hot enough.

    I only use the top rack, so nothing can fall between the rack and touch the heating rods.

    -

    I remove any relays or other things that could fill with water and wash circuit boards on the bottom rack.

    #36 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Liquid Cascade dishwasher detergent.

    You have recommendations for what kind of dish detergent to use while dishwashing a harness. Is there anything you can't give a recommendation on, Vid?

    #37 8 years ago

    This I found very difficult to believe:

    Quoted from vid1900:

    Leave the coils and any unenclosed switches attached and put the whole harness in the dishwasher. Pots & Pan cycle. Working with a spotlessly clean harness is next to godliness.

    And this is where you lost me:

    Quoted from vid1900:

    I remove any relays or other things that could fill with water and wash circuit boards on the bottom rack.

    I even do not know if I should react seriously to it

    OK here goes: I was always told water and electronics do not mix. What happened?

    #38 8 years ago
    Quoted from mgpasman:

    This I found very difficult to believe:

    A coil is just insulated wire, wrapped around a plastic bobbin.

    The wire itself isn't going to get wet (it's insulated), and the plastic bobbin is inert.

    The dishwasher washes away all the black dust, leaving just a clean coil behind - a pleasure to work with.

    Quoted from mgpasman:

    I was always told water and electronics do not mix. What happened?

    Water and high voltage electricity do not mix.

    An unpowered pinball circuit board does not have any potential to cause damage.

    I remove mechanical things like relays and enclosed switches (those could maybe fill with water).

    I remove old IC Sockets (after 30 years those things are garbage, and always get replaced anyway).

    I remove old batteries (even if they are not leaking, they are ticking timebombs).

    I clean up any battery corrosion and into the dishwasher they go.

    #39 8 years ago
    Quoted from mgpasman:

    This I found very difficult to believe:

    And this is where you lost me:

    I even do not know if I should react seriously to it
    OK here goes: I was always told water and electronics do not mix. What happened?

    Powered up electronics don't mix with water and I would not wash boards with dip switches where water can get trapped but boards are actually washed in the factory during manufacturing process so it's not an issue.

    #40 8 years ago

    Water and electronics mix fine. As long as there is no power to them and they are properly dried

    And take this tip from a fellow Dutchie: Don't try to cheap out on pinball repairs

    #41 8 years ago
    Quoted from koen12344:

    And take this tip from a fellow Dutchie: Don't try to cheap out on pinball repairs

    What gave you that impression? The fact that I do not want to shell out for a rotisserie, or the fact that I am going ahead with a playfield swap without rebuilding or replacing every single part?

    #42 8 years ago
    Quoted from mgpasman:

    The fact that I do not want to shell out for a rotisserie, or the fact that I am going ahead with a playfield swap without rebuilding or replacing every single part?

    Everyone cheaps out on their first playfield swap.

    Then 30 hours latter, after finding out how much work was REALLY involved, they are sorry that they did not do a better restoration.

    It's human nature.

    #43 8 years ago

    Yup I did my first playfield swap (six million dollar man) with two saw horses and will probably do the other ten playfields I have waiting to be done the exact same way. Can't see spending the money, having to build one and then storing a rotisserie when not using it....but hey that's just me.

    John P. Dayhuff
    Battle Creek, MI.
    269-979-3836

    #44 8 years ago

    Personally, I use dual black pipe rotisseries.

    They quickly breakdown without any tools in 30 seconds and hang flat on the shop wall (or in my van), completely out of the way.

    If I'm out on a service call for a sucky job like rebuilding pops bumpers, you better believe that I have a rotisserie with me. Saves mega time, and thus saves my clients money.

    #45 8 years ago
    Quoted from Dayhuff:

    Yup I did my first playfield swap (six million dollar man) with two saw horses and will probably do the other ten playfields I have waiting to be done the exact same way. Can't see spending the money, having to build one and then storing a rotisserie when not using it....but hey that's just me.
    John P. Dayhuff
    Battle Creek, MI.
    269-979-3836

    Ha, I use sawhorses as well. I also have an irrational fear of putting the harness into the dishwasher, so I give the harness a good wipe down with Clorox wipes.

    #46 8 years ago
    Quoted from Dayhuff:

    Yup I did my first playfield swap (six million dollar man) with two saw horses and will probably do the other ten playfields I have waiting to be done the exact same way. Can't see spending the money, having to build one and then storing a rotisserie when not using it....but hey that's just me.
    John P. Dayhuff
    Battle Creek, MI.
    269-979-3836

    I built mine so that it was collapsible and could be used as a worktable. I probably use the worktable portion of it more than the rotisserie and put clip-on lights on the angle irons.

    #47 8 years ago
    Quoted from mgpasman:

    What gave you that impression?

    Nothing, just personal experience

    #48 8 years ago

    I did one with my buddy Aeon on his ToTan. We used his kitchen table and found it really easy, took us a weekend. Both of us have pretty good short term memories and the new PF was dimpled.

    Would i build a rotisserie? Probably not. We laid his PF on the side and had 0 difficulty

    Way too much fear mongering in here. It's honestly not THAT bad if you have a fair amount of pictures and a way to sit the game sideways for the top stuff, we used the rails and it held fine. Everything else, just assemble the bottom as best you can, flip it over do the top... done...? But maybe ToTan is a little easier than most?

    #49 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    A coil is just insulated wire, wrapped around a plastic bobbin.
    The wire itself isn't going to get wet (it's insulated), and the plastic bobbin is inert.
    The dishwasher washes away all the black dust, leaving just a clean coil behind - a pleasure to work with.

    OK, I am intrigued .

    I can see coils, wires, even leaf switches all go into the dishwasher, as copper will not rust. But how about attached lamp sockets?

    #50 8 years ago
    Quoted from boris_37:

    I did one with my buddy Aeon on his ToTan. We used his kitchen table and found it really easy, took us a weekend. Both of us have pretty good short term memories and the new PF was dimpled.
    Would i build a rotisserie? Probably not. We laid his PF on the side and had 0 difficulty
    Way too much fear mongering in here. It's honestly not THAT bad if you have a fair amount of pictures and a way to sit the game sideways for the top stuff, we used the rails and it held fine. Everything else, just assemble the bottom as best you can, flip it over do the top... done...? But maybe ToTan is a little easier than most?

    I am told BoP is a fairly easy swap as well. I might get help for one day, but I think it will be a multi-day project anyway. I am in no rush whatsoever, luckily.

    There are 61 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

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