(Topic ID: 124340)

Playfield Swap Guide

By mof

9 years ago


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    #54 5 years ago

    A couple things I have learned after finishing a couple of half completed swaps.

    If you can place your rotisserie next to the cabinet it is worth it to be able to test the playfield at multiple times during the swap.

    1. Before populating the top: Add and test all feature lamps. This is a really good time to identify if you have any wiring mistakes
    2. Before putting any plastics on in most cases (and some posts in hard to reach areas): Add and test all GI for the same reason as above. You may want to do this after you drill the post holes so you can blow off the dust
    3. Before putting any plastics but after rubbers. Check any switches that may be closed by new rubber

    3 years later
    #75 2 years ago
    Quoted from pinzrfun:

    My solution for my next swap, and I have several lined up - I will cut the drill bit to the exact length that I need so that only 1/2" or so protrudes from the drill, making it IMPOSSIBLE to ever accidentally drill thru the pf, no matter how hard you try. It will be well worth the cost of a drill bit.

    I live in fear of doing this but I have a much simple solution. I drill through a cork. No modifications to the bit needed and short of the cork disintegrating (unlikely at these speeds) there is little chance of a drill though.

    By carefully setting the depth of the bit and using the size of the cork I get a perfect depth on the hole without any playfield damage.

    I usually have to cut the cork down actually so I cut off the part that is wine stained.

    #76 2 years ago

    I added a step to my last swap and put in inline connectors on all of the under playfield assemblies. I used 2 and 3 pin molex connectors in .062 for switches and .093 for coils.

    This allowed the assembly to be left in place during replacement. I would continue to play the game so I knew everything was working.

    Then during the swap the assemblies came out first leaving alot of open room. This removed the majority of the weight from the harness and allowed the position to be easily checked on the new playfield.

    Additionally the mechs can be cleaned and polished individually during downtown from other activities.

    #82 2 years ago
    Quoted from pinzrfun:

    "Little chance of a drill through" ain't good enough once you've punched a hole in a $900 playfield. Zero chance is all I'll accept from now on.
    I applaud your solution though, but for the cost of one drill bit, I'll leave the corks in the bottle.

    I see the modifications on the drill bit as a way of causing unintended issues. Meanwhile my drill bit just sits in the toolbox with a cork through it and when it needs replacement the new one slides right in.

    I'm not going to make any claims about whether or not I've ever had a drill through as I'd just be inviting irony to make an appearance on my next swap

    #87 2 years ago
    Quoted from pinzrfun:

    That's a really good idea to Molex them while the game is still playable, but why would you need to do that to remove a mech? The only coil I had to unsolder was the kickout under the apron, because the wires go from the bottom through to the top. I see how this could save a little back pain from leaning under the game, easier to unhook the Molex and just remove....
    Just to play devils advocate though - how often will u need to remove an entire mech in a home use game once it's been rebuilt? Even a flipper rebuild is pretty quick still in the game, and newly rebuilt flippers are going to last a long, long time - but again, easier to do on a bench...
    I can appreciate making the harness lighter too. I threw my entire harness in the dishwasher then tumbled and ultra soniced everything, but I like this idea too - especially for the switches, because I replaced all of the round stand-up target faces and it would have been easier if they'd been off the harness. Next time i will replace the leaf switch blades themselves, at least the visible ones in the slingshot - I just put the new posts and plastics on last night and the switch blades look horrible lol.

    For me I don't care if the mechs ever get removed again. This is all about keeping the assembly as a single unit and making it easier to do the swap.

    #88 2 years ago
    Quoted from pinzrfun:

    What kind of unintended issues?
    Not being a smart ass or argumentive- wondering if there's something I haven't thought of that might bite me in the ass ....

    I lack the equipment and experience to cut down a drill bit. I'd be afraid or leaving a burr or something that would damage the surface.

    But that is based on my ignorance of the process and my already having a method that works for me.

    1 month later
    #111 2 years ago

    A new step I have added to the process. I layout the old plastics and new plastics, if any, on the new playfield to check the dimples before I do anything else to the new playfield. It's so much easier to check hole and dimple placement with no rails or other components in the way.

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