Subbing and bumping

Do not use CPR's holes on the right or you'll have to put a smaller post on the top like I did. They are off enough that the ball can't drain with the bigger normal post in there.
Get an automatic center punch to put a new pilot hole where it belongs. If you have to make the entire hole bigger that's fine, you're drilling through it anyway, and the bottom of the post covers it.

Definitely drill all the way down for posts if you aren't using the carriage bolt style from the original playfield, CPR's wood is harder than the original and you will snap posts.

Double check the maze area before drilling, everything has to be 100% correct up here or the geometry won't work.

Consider the posts behind the 5 bank moving them back a very slight bit (if you can.... still it's part of the maze!) - If you use new 5-4-3-2-1 targets they will tend to brick if not.

Get a larger drill and precut the clearcoat around holes once you've decided where to put them. I make sure I cut it bigger than the screw so there's no possibility of the screw twisting the clearcoat as it cuts its threads. I changed as many of the posts as I could to machine thread type just because I like them better (if you snap a machine threaded post, you can remove the T-nut and pound the post down through the PF since it doesn't thread into the wood at all) If you're using the original carriage bolts make sure when you pound them up through the PF you won't lift the clear using the same clear cutting method. Do NOT use the drill bit in a drill to do this! It will bite in and make a mess of things quickly (which the post should still cover....but still....). You just kind of run it by hand lightly to cut out the clear.

That's the high points that I recall from doing mine 10 or more years ago. Be very careful driving screws and posts into anything where it's near an edge as if that screw snaps, you have a real issue on your hands getting it out without damaging the edge. (Dealing with that on a Joker Poker right now..... ugh.)

I have a drill guide (cheap at hardware store) that I keep around, put the post/screw into it, then select a drill bit that's a size or 2 down (to account for the threads if it's a wood type, use the same size drill if it's a machine post).

These will be tricky as the hole you drill for these are small with nothing to cover it up after, compared to a starpost which affords you some wiggle room. Depending on how far over you need to relocate can determine how hard it will be to drill. You won’t want the existing dimple to guide your but back to the wrong location. You could use a pointy dremmel bit and make a new dimple maybe. I use an automatic center punch to mark new holes but i remove clear first so i don’t risk forming a crack.

I drilled mine tight at first for a friction fit but the size was too tight for my likely (cant recall diameter). So i drilled the next size up, dipped the end of the wire guide into Titebond III (or just use some decent wood glue) and set them to the right height. They are solid.

Consider buying a manual drill. A hand crank drill for ultimate control when starting holes.

Amazon.com

Type in “manual drill“. You will also see pin vises in this search.

This is good advice, but I’d also like to throw in my 2c that not all power drills are alike. I recently upgraded from Craftsman C3 to modern Dewalt tools, and it’s crazy how much better the dewalt trigger control is. On the low speed setting I can easily feather the trigger to the point the drill takes many seconds to do **one** rotation. Having the drill turn a consistent speed helps you focus on how much pressure to apply which is also key here.

My power drill has the fine trigger control as well, I use the manual in case I slip on the trigger (which has happened, I'll be drilling a hole with a certain amount of pressure and it's fine, but then you hit a soft ply and zip through. Usually to the bottom as I use a drill stop when going bottom to top).

Pull the wire guides. Stern guides pull easy enough.

Get a piece of flat wood like paint stir stick. Lay that under the guide and gently pry up with a flat blade screwdriver.

I'm not seeing any difference from post #1 right side pic and post #6 pic. Can you add an arrow to the trace paper?

The only thing will be to make sure the ball properly activates the roll over switch when it passes over. You do have a bit of play side to side when you installed the rollover too, but i wouldnt want it rubbing against the side of the slot. I dont think 1/8” will result in it not triggering the switch but worth verifying this.

To check out whether the 1/8" discrepancy will effect the ball actuating the rollover over guides, get a couple of pieces of wood and some double-back tape. Tape the pieces of wood to the play field by lining them up with the ball guide holes i.e. make a chute for the ball to roll through (it does not have to be two pieces of wood. It can be two pieces of angle iron, or two pieces of hard plastic. Anything that can make a chute). If the ball actuates the rollover wire then you are golden. And usually, not too many are going to notice a 1/8" mis-location to the right.

I wouldn't doubt it. I don't know what method CPR uses to spot the holes, (nor what any other repro maker uses, for that matter) but I've never had a replacement playfield where 100% of the holes were correct. It's actually why I preferred the IPB repro of EBD as it was unspotted and I put all the spots exactly where I wanted them, based on experience.

Likely it's a combination of the rail being scootched to the left a slight bit and the post going to the right a little bit that caused it. I never thought that the switch slots would be wrong though, that's a pretty serious error.

I see it now, I thought the wire guide holes were off. I'm not sure why this happens on CPR. The only thing I can say is that not all PF's are made the same, or same mfr either. It's possible that the used more than one pf for dimples and the cnc cuts? There's not a whole lot you can do without defacing the top side. maybe do some tests with the ball and temporary install the wire giudes but only set them in part way?

My swap was ok except I had issues with the ball hanging up on clear coat being too thick near the ball walker and trough area. Had to file some clear down in spots.

What are you going to do with the old playfield?