(Topic ID: 268947)

Playfield swap

By MT45

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 23 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by KJL
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

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#1 3 years ago

Accomplished tech here but about to do my very first playfield swap.

Which method would you reccomend for transferring old bayonet bulbs Harlem Globetrotters...?

A) swap as original and lay down the 5 volt wire (first HEP image)
B) swap in new way with 2 lug lamp sockets point to point 5 volts (second HEP image)

As you can see Chris has done it several ways (both to great effect)
What way would you reccomend to me and why?
I do NOT care about cost

Thanks!
HEP ground wire (resized).pngHEP ground wire (resized).pngHEP new wire (resized).pngHEP new wire (resized).png

#2 3 years ago

I prefer the original way in image A. I have tried both and even though approach B is more short/fault tolerant, you can still short the sockets to each other if you change a bulb with the game on and blow an SCR.

#3 3 years ago

I followed version of the B photo above when I did a PF swap on my Xenon.
Instead of using the sockets with an extra solder tab, I used the single tab ones in with additional solder tabs that you screw down below the lamp socket and solder to those. Makes it very easy to remove a lamp socket and it was easy to run everything. HEP does it on some of his restores as well (It's where I got the idea).
Personally, I like the original look, but I wanted to get it to be a bit more short\fault tolerant (as Xenon75 said above). Less bare wire is a good thing in my eyes.

#4 3 years ago

I haven't tried the tab method, maybe I will for my next one. Where do you get the tabs?

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

A) swap as original and lay down the ground braid (first HEP image)

That's not the ground, it's your 5v.

Personally I would pick whatever is easier for you.

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from Xenon75:

I haven't tried the tab method, maybe I will for my next one. Where do you get the tabs?

Pretty sure I got them on Digikey this round. Just search solder lug connectors. I think I used the keystone Electronics Lockwasher angled variety for mine.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

That's not the ground, it's your 5v.
Personally I would pick whatever is easier for you.

Thx. Good catch and going to correct. Called it "what it looks like" vs what "it is"!

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from JDissen87:

I followed version of the B photo above when I did a PF swap on my Xenon.
Instead of using the sockets with an extra solder tab, I used the single tab ones in with additional solder tabs that you screw down below the lamp socket and solder to those. Makes it very easy to remove a lamp socket and it was easy to run everything. HEP does it on some of his restores as well (It's where I got the idea).
Personally, I like the original look, but I wanted to get it to be a bit more short\fault tolerant (as Xenon75 said above). Less bare wire is a good thing in my eyes.

Would you have a picture of that as an example?

#9 3 years ago

I lose the exposed braid

Highly recommend correcting any colored wire to its correct color.

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#10 3 years ago

I just went and checked my solder lugs, exact same ones linked above by Jigs.
Here is how I used them. Order is lug, socket and lastly the screw. keeps the power wire closer to the playfield and out of the way and at the same time its insulated wire and not bare. Hopefully that helps and gives you an idea of what you might want. lugs1lugs1lugs2lugs2

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from JDissen87:

I just went and checked my solder lugs, exact same ones linked above by Jigs.
Here is how I used them. Order is lug, socket and lastly the screw. keeps the power wire closer to the playfield and out of the way and at the same time its insulated wire and not bare. Hopefully that helps and gives you an idea of what you might want. [quoted image][quoted image]

EXACTLY what I needed and now makes perfect sense.
Doing it this way you can now change a bulb easily - just like a modern machine AND, it is much harder to short when removing a lamp holder to change a bulb

BTW - are you soldering the wire to the lug after the lamp socket is mounted? If so, what are you using to protect underside of PF from burns?

Very nice - thanks again

#12 3 years ago

I plan to use the solder tab technique when I do my first swap. How do you strip the insulation on the wires without cutting the wire fully when passing through these terminals?

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from Tokkentakker:

I plan to use the solder tab technique when I do my first swap. How do you strip the insulation on the wires without cutting the wire fully when passing through these terminals?

Automatic stripper!

#14 3 years ago

I’ve done a couple of swaps using the solder tabs. I think it looks good and makes it simple to change bulbs and adjust lamp sockets.2B55F0E0-F953-400E-91AB-08F2216A8B22 (resized).jpeg2B55F0E0-F953-400E-91AB-08F2216A8B22 (resized).jpeg3B8D0785-03B0-4681-86E7-CEF680F853A4 (resized).jpeg3B8D0785-03B0-4681-86E7-CEF680F853A4 (resized).jpeg

#15 3 years ago

I’ve done a couple of swaps using the solder tabs. I think it looks good and makes it simple to change bulbs and adjust lamp sockets.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

BTW - are you soldering the wire to the lug after the lamp socket is mounted? If so, what are you using to protect underside of PF from burns?

I did mine a bit different. I mounted all my lamp sockets first to make sure things worked out correctly. I then went through and added the solder tabs. All the tabs were soldered while on the back of the playfield. I don't think I had to remove any of them to solder anything. The PF was on a rotisserie and was sideways when I did this. Never had issues or concerns about PF burns.

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from Tokkentakker:

I plan to use the solder tab technique when I do my first swap. How do you strip the insulation on the wires without cutting the wire fully when passing through these terminals?

I did not pass the wire through the solder terminal itself. I just stripped a piece of insulation about the width of the solder tab area and soldered it to the side of the terminal. Passing it through sounds like an interesting idea, but i'm not sure the wire I used would fit through with the insulation, plus stringing the solder tabs on would take forever.
As for stripping the wire, I did it two ways. One was automatic strippers. Those worked for 60% of the locations. The other 40% were too tight to get them positioned reliably, so in those cases I just used good ol' fashioned wire strippers for small gauge wires and a sharp knife. Cut the insulation on each side, run the knife through the middle, pull the little piece of insulation off and solder away.

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from Vandy89:

I’ve done a couple of swaps using the solder tabs. I think it looks good and makes it simple to change bulbs and adjust lamp sockets.[quoted image][quoted image]

Incredibly helpful to see the pics ... thank you - looks like you may have threaded the wire through the solder tab holes -yes?

Quoted from JDissen87:

I did mine a bit different. I mounted all my lamp sockets first to make sure things worked out correctly. I then went through and added the solder tabs. All the tabs were soldered while on the back of the playfield. I don't think I had to remove any of them to solder anything. The PF was on a rotisserie and was sideways when I did this. Never had issues or concerns about PF burns.

Awesome to know this as it seems the only way to make sure wire length is right - thanks for the clarification!
Do you have a favorite automatic stripper? (insert joke here)

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from bangerjay:

Automatic stripper!

Do you have a favorite one of these? You can get a $5 variety and a $50 variety (like most tools, you get what you pay for)
I want a good one ...

#20 3 years ago

Incredibly helpful to see the pics ... thank you - looks like you may have threaded the wire through the solder tab holes -yes?

Yes, I threaded the wire through the solder tab holes. Once all the tabs were threaded I went back and added a little solder.
It was a little tedious threading the wire at first, but once I got going it really didn't take that long.

#21 3 years ago

Wow, I'm about to go through a Flight 2000 and replace the old lamp sockets. I'm so glad I saw this before I began! I just ordered 100 solder lug connectors and 50' of desoldering braid. Thanks for the info!

2 years later
#22 1 year ago

I am doing my first playfield swap and am adding solder tabs to the new bulb sockets as described above. I have a question. I am replacing this socket with a new socket. Instead of soldering the two wires to the tabs on top of the bulb socket, how would you use solder tabs on this type of socket?

Thank you.

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#23 1 year ago

I like the original look so put down new sockets and staple new lamp buss wire on any playfield swap.

I have never had a problem with bare wire causing any issues and I don't get the value for the extra effort to add the solder tab with new sockets.

If you are putting back in the old sockets there might be minimal advantage if you go to replace them but you still need to solder two connections on every lamp and staple the wire down either way.

YMMV

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