Anybody every use one of these playfield protectors?
https://playfield-protectors.com/22/Playfield%20Protectors?page=5
Just picked up a Flash Gordon with an awesome play field and thought I aught to put a protector on it since it is completely original..ran across these guys and they seem to be a hard surface that just lays on the play field...so high gloss finish that should play faster...would love your thoughts or insights if you've ever used one.
I put one in my Paragon. It fixed my issues with the inserts and played super fast. I would recommend for an older game you want to keep.
I am in the middle of installing a PF protector. Have you noticed similar phenomenon, it looks like there is moisture under the PF protector. I had waxed the playfield, but had not removed the wax before putting the PF protector in - might this be the reason for it? Or if this is not the reason, how to avoid the phenomenon?
Cheep fix...dude clear coat your pf!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/polycarbonate-playfield-protectors-suck-got-the-perfect-fix
Quoted from gmkalos:Cheep fix...dude clear coat your pf!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/polycarbonate-playfield-protectors-suck-got-the-perfect-fix
I do not have the mad skills to required to do that.
Anyways, here's what it looks like:
Moist (resized).JPGQuoted from gmkalos:Cheep fix...dude clear coat your pf!
Yep, there is no equivalent to doing this. I just bought my first HEP restore and there is no comparison. However, clear coating a pf is not for everyone and commands a lot of work or a lot of money. For what you get with a pf protector its worth it. I have 6 W/B machines that have really nice original play fields and I installed pf protectors on 5 of them. (because we like to actually play or games everyday) The protector makes a really nice original pf look even better and in some cases like or better than new. And yes, I know the traditionalists don't like them or the way the say the game feels when playing, but I cant really feel the difference myself and you can't blame a guy who just wants to protect that original pf and play his game. 
Quoted from Flyrod:Just picked up a Flash Gordon with an awesome play field and thought I aught to put a protector on it since it is completely original.
Would be interested to hear some reviews on a Flash Gordon protector, I was going to get one but I read a review about problems with the ball catching or getting stuck on the rollovers on the upper playfield. I hope this is not a design problem with them as I really want to get one.
I have had one on my Firepower for a year of so, love it.
I've had good luck w/them. Bally KISS, Mata Hari ,and Fireball II. Considering one for my Power Play.
About playfield protectors: I have difficulties in removing the ramps under which there is an orbit where the protector should go. I am thinking about cutting the playfield protector and just pushing the protector under the ramps to its orbit lane and then joining the parts with a piece of mylar. Have you done anything similar - any experiences in that regard? Here you can see my plans on how to cut the protector. Apparently it is not a good idea to cut along the red line, it would be better to do it e.g. along with the green line to avoid ball hangups. I have done protector installing before, but Alien just seems a bit too difficult in this regard, so I am considering cutting the protector.
1245 (resized).jpgQuoted from whthrs166:Your supposed to remove the ramp. You can cut it, just install the mylar underneath the protector.
I know I know. This is just a very difficult task and there is no documentation to be found anywhere on how the ramps are set up.
Quoted from Nepi23:I am in the middle of installing a PF protector. Have you noticed similar phenomenon, it looks like there is moisture under the PF protector. I had waxed the playfield, but had not removed the wax before putting the PF protector in - might this be the reason for it? Or if this is not the reason, how to avoid the phenomenon?
This is not moisture and not from a chemical. The are newton rings caused by refraction of light between two materials. Check the previous threads on this. A bit annoying but not an issue.
Quoted from Nepi23:About playfield protectors: I have difficulties in removing the ramps under which there is an orbit where the protector should go. I am thinking about cutting the playfield protector and just pushing the protector under the ramps to its orbit lane and then joining the parts with a piece of mylar. Have you done anything similar - any experiences in that regard? Here you can see my plans on how to cut the protector. Apparently it is not a good idea to cut along the red line, it would be better to do it e.g. along with the green line to avoid ball hangups. I have done protector installing before, but Alien just seems a bit too difficult in this regard, so I am considering cutting the protector.
[quoted image]
I cut my ACDC with no issues. Ive got a bunch of these protectors - love them
Read this whole post and check out the last post (#28) for all my protector posts
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/steps-to-add-pf-protector-to-acdc
Quoted from MT45:I cut my ACDC with no issues. Ive got a bunch of these protectors - love them
Read this whole post and check out the last post (#28) for all my protector posts
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/steps-to-add-pf-protector-to-acdc
Did you put mylar on the cut points? Over or under the PF protector? Did you cut the mylar pieces also at an angle similarly to the cut points?
Quoted from albummydavis:This is not moisture and not from a chemical. The are newton rings caused by refraction of light between two materials. Check the previous threads on this. A bit annoying but not an issue.
I used the Naptha when I had this problem on NIB Hobbit. The moisture looking spot never returned. So say what you want, I am just posting my experience. 
Quoted from Nepi23:Did you put mylar on the cut points? Over or under the PF protector? Did you cut the mylar pieces also at an angle similarly to the cut points?
Great questions and here are the 2 answers:
When simply "cutting" the protector, I had NOT had to use any mylar whatsoever (see pics of cuts in both GB and ACDC)
When "cutting off" portions of the protector, I DID have to use a small tab of mylar to lock down the free floating end
I had to cut a piece off the one I put on Big Betty's Truck Stop because it just was not designed well. It was a small section near the top that was a ball trail into the habitrail overpass - no biggie
Mind the angle you cut at and try to think about where the ball might be going too slow and could potentially "hang up" on that small slit
I have tried to cut at an angle as well so the ball crosses at a bias rather than squared to the cut
So far I am EXTREMELY pleased with these and may be ordering another one for my Data East Time Machine
They are great if you want to do some playfield art touchups and then want to preserve that work without clearcoating
They are also great for correcting cupped inserts
They look like a million dollars when installed
Careful waxing - they play even faster than a standard PF when freshly waxed!
IMG_2115 (resized).JPGIMG_2116 (resized).JPGIMG_2117 (resized).JPGQuoted from MT45:Great questions and here are the 2 answers:
When simply "cutting" the protector, I had NOT had to use any mylar whatsoever (see pics of cuts in both GB and ACDC)
When "cutting off" portions of the protector, I DID have to use a small tab of mylar to lock down the free floating end
I had to cut a piece off the one I put on Big Betty's Truck Stop because it just was not designed well. It was a small section near the top that was a ball trail into the habitrail overpass - no biggie
Mind the angle you cut at and try to think about where the ball might be going too slow and could potentially "hang up" on that small slit
I have tried to cut at an angle as well so the ball crosses at a bias rather than squared to the cut
So far I am EXTREMELY pleased with these and may be ordering another one for my Data East Time Machine
They are great if you want to do some playfield art touchups and then want to preserve that work without clearcoating
They are also great for correcting cupped inserts
They look like a million dollars when installed
Careful waxing - they play even faster than a standard PF when freshly waxed![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Many thanks!
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