Just picked up a digital leveler to get the pitch angle correct on my machines. Checked the manuals and both pins recommend 6 degrees. I took off the glass and both were around 7 degrees (I had both set to the max and they were playing a little fast for my liking). I get different readings at different points on the playfield (i.e. 6.8 degrees at the top and 5.9 degrees at the bottom). Where should the pitch measurements be taken?
Quoted from CaptainRedEye:Just picked up a digital leveler to get the pitch angle correct on my machines. Checked the manuals and both pins recommend 6 degrees. I took off the glass and both were around 7 degrees (I had both set to the max and they were playing a little fast for my liking). I get different readings at different points on the playfield (i.e. 6.8 degrees at the top and 5.9 degrees at the bottom). Where should the pitch measurements be taken?
I hope an expert responds because I am curious too. I always measure from what I eyeball as he “middle”.
Quoted from CaptainRedEye:Just picked up a digital leveler to get the pitch angle correct on my machines. Checked the manuals and both pins recommend 6 degrees. I took off the glass and both were around 7 degrees (I had both set to the max and they were playing a little fast for my liking). I get different readings at different points on the playfield (i.e. 6.8 degrees at the top and 5.9 degrees at the bottom). Where should the pitch measurements be taken?
Unless you have a severely warped playfield, not possible to get two different degrees of pitch on a straight line. Check your PF or your measuring device...one of them is off.
Quoted from robertmee:not possible to get two different degrees of pitch on a straight line
I completely agree in theory, but in practice every machine I own gives a different reading at the top of machine (steeper) vs. the bottom. It doesn't make sense to me. I'm using a Digi-Pas DWL-80E digital pocket level, FWIW.
Don't overthink it. Make sure the game is level side to side, then increase/decrease pitch to your liking (I try to do it all in one step since I'm lazy and don't want to have to do it again). I try to set most of my games up to 7 degrees, but if it's a bit higher or lower, I'm not going to get under the thing again to change it. If it plays slow, I'll increase it. I can't say that I've ever decreased pitch because it's playing too fast though...I figure it'll make me a better player 
Quoted from FatPanda:Don't overthink it. Make sure the game is level side to side, then increase/decrease pitch to your liking (I try to do it all in one step since I'm lazy and don't want to have to do it again). I try to set most of my games up to 7 degrees, but if it's a bit higher or lower, I'm not going to get under the thing again to change it. If it plays slow, I'll increase it. I can't say that I've ever decreased pitch because it's playing too fast though...I figure it'll make me a better player
What this guy said. Level side to side and figure out what plays 'right' on that game.
The weight of mechs etc in the middle of the playfield could create a small bow when the playfield is down. Depending on the playfield it is usually only supported at the back (pivots) and front (hooks), the middle is just hanging. Although a full degree sounds like a lot in reality that could be the width of a piece of paper in terms of playfield bow in the middle.
As said above - level for side to side and get the pitch to where you are happy with it. Plenty of people like faster or slower games, but I doubt you'd hear anyone talking about side to side inconsistency.
I shoot for 6.5 degrees on DMDs between the flippers. I'll then play a few games and adjust it from that point. Some games you can run into situations where you don't get as many shitty drains by increasing or decreasing the pitch a little.
Got the PinGuy app and leveled out my games over the weekend. Set everything at 6.5 except for Mata Hari I set at 5.5. Such a cool app. I calibrated it by putting a playfield glass on my pool table and put a pinball on the glass to verify it being level. Took my phone out of its case and set it on the glass, locked in the alignment, and then went to town.
Quoted from Durzel:The weight of mechs etc in the middle of the playfield could create a small bow when the playfield is down. Depending on the playfield it is usually only supported at the back (pivots) and front (hooks), the middle is just hanging. Although a full degree sounds like a lot in reality that could be the width of a piece of paper in terms of playfield bow in the middle.
As said above - level for side to side and get the pitch to where you are happy with it. Plenty of people like faster or slower games, but I doubt you'd hear anyone talking about side to side inconsistency.
Usually games have side rails to counter any bowing...if any significant bowing occurred, there would likely be lots of issues with inserts, as they're not going to bow with the wood. Not saying it's not a possibility but I would be surprised at 1 degree. On a 46 inch PF that's .8 inches difference or bow. If you assume bow is exactly midpoint that's .4 inches before and after.
Quoted from robertmee:Usually games have side rails to counter any bowing...if any significant bowing occurred, there would likely be lots of issues with inserts, as they're not going to bow with the wood. Not saying it's not a possibility but I would be surprised at 1 degree. On a 46 inch PF that's .8 inches difference or bow. If you assume bow is exactly midpoint that's .4 inches before and after.
Yes, .8" is a lot of difference which suggests bowing in the middle. I might have .1 or .2 difference between top and bottom but not .8. And a small difference could be nothing more than placing the level on a slightly raised insert.
Good points well made. There was a guy on the UK forum who bought a NIB Hobbit which had this exact phenomenon, manifesting in a full degree of pitch difference from the back of the playfield to the front. Bowing on a brand new machine seems a bit unlikely, no?
Quoted from Durzel:Bowing on a brand new machine seems a bit unlikely, no?
Wood does not care when it starts bowing. Go pull some plywood sheets from the shelves of your local retailer. Some will be straight. And some won't.
I only have two machines and put new legs and levelers on both. I set them both to the steepest settings and worked my way down. Side-to-side is perfect and I think they are where they should be pitch-wise. My Monday Night Football varies about 0.7-0.8 top to bottom. My Gladiators is only about 0.3-0.4 variance. I set MNF to mid-6 degrees and the Gladiators to upper-6 degrees. Both play fast, but no so fast and steep that shots are impossible.
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