I used the one for TOTAN. Worked out fantastic. Cleared over it. Has held up well.

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http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-protector-full-sheet-plastic

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http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/playfieldprotector/index.html

I want to try these out real bad, fingers crossed for roadshow, who dunnit and tommy to be made at some point.

Pretty please.

I'm not familiar with the process so excuse the potentially dumb question, but if one was going to clear a PF why bother putting down a clear overlay first?

If your playfield is trashed and you can't find a replacement PF, then the overlay becomes an option. From what I've come to understand, you need to sand your current PF smooth, lay down the overlay and clear over the top.

But if you're going to clearcoat, why bother with a clear overlay?

I'm surprised that clearcoat would even stick to that kind of plastic.

--Luke

I think Im confused. This isnt a type of overlay that you clearcoat over. Its a sheet of plastic that goes on top of the playfield. No adhesive or sanding. Just put it on.

I'm confused, too.

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-JL-PF-PROTECTOR&Store_Code=BAA

I used one of the SI Overlays from Classic Arcades ( got it several years ago). It was the adhesive type. I sanded and the cleared the PF, Applied the overlay and then covered the entire thing with mylar to protect the overlay. It plays great and has zero wear.

It's not a printed overlay.

It's a sheet of clear plastic, CNCed to match a specific game.

You are not going to clear coat it - that's for sure.

GS-JL-PF-PROTECTORL.jpg

The clear playfield overlays are different than what I was describing for my TOTAN. I would not think you would need to clear over what you folks are describing. I used an overlay decal with art on it to cover damaged art on my PF. Because the ink for the art is printed on top of the overlay, it requires a clear or else the ink will wear away.

Here is the overlay I am talking about: http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-TOTAN584

Here are before and after pics of the overlay installation. This should clear up the confusion.

Camera_Pictures_006.jpg Camera_Pictures_002.jpg

I don't think that overlay is what S37VEN thinks it is. What he just said makes no sense at all.

EDIT: He posted while I was typing.

I just installed one in my BOP yesterday , the look is just amazing !!!

Very nice to hear! I have one coming for my Shadow after I repair the sanctum and shop.

so they turn a dodgy playfield into a bright and colourful one?

yep it give the playfield a very bright and shiny tone like a clearcoat

No, they give it a nice shiny finish. They do not repair color, damage, or anything else. If your playfield has flaws this isn't going to fix them.

I agree with you Chad.

I thought I had ordered plastic protectors and ordered a playfield protector (overlay) from BAA instead. I was getting ready to send it back but after these reviews I think I am going to install it. I have some spots with wear and imperfections but have not honed my playfield restoration skills. I think I am going to give the playfield a good cleaning and install the overlay.

2 benifits...nice and shiny, and protects against additional damage/detioration. When I am confident that I can touch up the questionable areas, I can remove and reinstall.

Nice thread guys...

Is anyone else a little bit concerned about the potential for condensation buildup under such a large sheet of plastic? That playfield is constantly heating up and cooling. Whenever you have a solid plastic membrane and heat transfer you get condensation. In this case there would be zero way for the moisture to escape and it may work its way into the ink/wood. Let that sit a while and now your playfield protector is impossible to remove without taking chunks of ink.

Is this a concern?

hadn't thought of that...

however, I have an Elektra that has a thick piece of Plexi on it and I see no issues with paint sticking. On the F-14 that I am doing, all the inserts are LED's where the Elektra is stock....I would have thought that the heat from the stock lights would effect the paint to stick more than the LED's in the F-14.

....and the stock lights in the Elektra are, well, somewhere around 32 years old..

Yeah, I think it will vary heavily by environment. An F-14 might be a safer than average game, too, because some of the arrow inserts will be raised enough to potentially allow airflow under the protector.

I will assume ball travel will be affected, similar to mylar covered PFs.

Everything affects ball travel. Even on a single playfield ball travel changes depending on the cleanliness of the playfield. I've never heard anyone say we should let the games stay dirty so as to avoid the effects of wax on the playfield...

I would think so as well....however, I have a Gorgar, a Flash, and the Elektra. I will admit, the ball travel on the plexi of the Elektra is far superior than the travel of the other two...

You misunderstood what I am getting at (or I didn't describe it right).

A lot of people whine and complain that mylar causes bad ball travel and it shouldn't be used in the main PF area, yet are willing to put down an entire sheet of plastic that will do the same thing. Since the sheet is not actually *stuck* to the PF, dirt will be able to get underneath and cause wear to some extent as well. (Such as the old pop bumper floating platters)

Heh, well at least I don't see anyone saying their protector has bubbles like mylar.

The condensation question is an interesting thought but I do feel the constant comments about dirt accumulating underneath a bit odd.

How dirty do you guys keep your machines?

After all a clean would require at most, lifting the protector off again. And that's if ya let it get bad no?

A genuine question as I actually dont have a working machine atm

Over time any tiny crevice in any pin is going to accumulate some buildup. Wax, dust, dirt, etc. The only way to avoid that would be as you said to lift the protector. That's not something people are likely to do all that often given that you have to strip so much of the playfield to do it.

The thing that interests me most is seeing how the balls mark these things up, how they get polished out, and if airballs start cracking corners off of them.

Pffft why not?

If I had one id probably do a routine super clean!

I reckon zero cracks, stuff is made for impact but I do think scratches will be a problem. Acrylic is made to be more scratch resistant than this stuff and even that can be a pain.

Also in terms of cracks, if they do produce more airballs then I'd be fearful of plastics getting the brunt.

I would be worried about non-cc'd/DP Pf's lifting paint after one of these were on for years.

If you're thinking that the paint would adhere to the poly, waxing the pf before would likely help (or completely) prevent this. Since the protector isn't moving, and the motion of the ball over it won't transfer to the pf (like it does with thinner mylar) the layer of wax would seem to prevent the direct contact between the poly sheet and the paint. A good layer of wax may well also create a seal between the pf and the poly to prevent the intrusion of dirty between the poly and the pf. But if there was some intrusion, it likely wouldn't have the same effect as with dirt getting under loose mylar because of the lack of movement of the poly sheet or transfer of motion from the ball thru to the pf/dirt.

I know this is a very old thread, but I was kind 've looking for an update. I'm Looking at getting the playfield protector for my T2. Seems like several people were trying this product out.. What is the overall opinion??

How do they hold up??

If you have no PF damage or lifting inserts there is no need for one of these IMO. I have one on my HS2 because of a few lifting inserts. Im not impressed by it, ball trails are becoming more and more of an issue and its a dust/dirt MAGNET! Had it on for about 6 months, would not buy another.

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