(Topic ID: 354463)

Playfield haze

By shadyj7

3 months ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by DNO
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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    #1 3 months ago

    Can anybody tell me the best thing to used to bring my Terminator 3 hazy playfield back to a luster sign? Thanks for any help

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    #2 3 months ago

    I would say a good cleaning (Novus 2) and a wax (Carnuba) would help. I'm sure others will have suggestions as well.

    #3 3 months ago

    Clean by your preferred method (on machines this age, I know it's harsh and I know that it is abrasive and removes playfield surface, but I'd use Novus #2...)

    Then use a carnuba paste wax, per the instructions.

    If you don't get the result you want, us naptha to remove the wax.

    The definitive guide is this:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide

    #4 3 months ago

    I’d try magic eraser and then Novus 1

    #5 3 months ago
    Quoted from Don44:

    I’d try magic eraser and then Novus 1

    That should only be considered if you intend to strip off the surface.

    I would try polishing and buffing.

    #6 3 months ago

    I have found that light cleaning with the magic eraser does not do any damage to that kind of playfield and can do wonders.
    Force flow, can a magic eraser remove the finish with a light cleaning? I don’t want to give anyone bad advice

    #7 3 months ago

    Can a magic eraser remove the finish with a light cleaning?

    According to Vid's guide:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide#post-2655687

    Magic Erasers are equivalent to about 1200 grit sandpaper.

    But, (others may disagree, here, and I respect their experience...)

    A lot of 'haze' or surfaces that don't look glossy are caused by micro-scratches. You can remove a microscopic top layer, and that 'levels out' many of the topmost peaks that catch your eye. Then use a bit of wax (either novus 1, or if you need to fill heavier scratches, a carnuba paste wax), to fill in the not-so-deep-because-we-took-off-the-top-of-the-mountain scratches that are left.

    This gives a pleasing appearance, and wax can help to protect the surface.

    Vid's guide shows some examples of what is happing on the first page with his Novus explanation.

    I use magic erasers sparingly on playfields that I can access the paint.

    I use Novus #2 for modern playfields that have 'diamond plate' or other clear coated surfaces, when there is obvious grime scratched into the playfield, or where the edges of the micro scratches are obvious, before applying some small amount of wax to give a smooth appearance that doesn't 'catch the eye' as much.

    For less damage or less cleaning I'll try Novus #1 only, but almost everything I work on is compromised a bit more than Novus #1 on it's own will help with.

    I fully respect the people who want to do no damage to their machines. Novus 2 or magic erasers DO remove the topmost layer of your playfield. If that could be avoided, it should be.

    #8 3 months ago

    After I started using this stuff, I threw my big bottle of Novus 2 in the trash.

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    #9 3 months ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    After I started using this stuff, I threw my big bottle of Novus 2 in the trash.
    [quoted image]

    Thanks O-din. Ordering a bottle now!

    #10 3 months ago
    Quoted from PinRetail:

    Thanks O-din. Ordering a bottle now!

    Stuff's pretty amazing. Cuts through haze and shines up fast without a lot of wasted elbow grease. And leaves no grit or residue. It is designed to break down without any of that. Works great on ramps and cars as well.

    Good to clean the playfield first, then wax when you are done.

    #11 3 months ago

    Good to know, I am going to order some.

    #12 3 months ago

    I tried the Novus 2 and then some wax. It didn't come out perfect but it sure looks a heck of a lot better. Thanks for all the help!

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    #13 3 months ago
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    #14 3 months ago

    You need the same angle and frame as the “before” shot of the Security Level insert

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