(Topic ID: 285423)

Playfield Cleaning,Classic Stern Specific......Beating a dead horse

By Pinbub

3 years ago


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  • 12 posts
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  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Grizlyrig
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    #1 3 years ago

    Bear with me, I know there's a lot of info out there and I HAVE done a lot of reading. I tend to over-research stuff and of course, if you read enough you can find both people saying one method is great and an equal number of people saying DON'T ever use THAT method..... Case in point, when I was working on my Comet I sourced naptha, (not easy in California), and it made NO difference in cleaning my playfield. I simply used naptha on a rag. My Comet had quite a bit of planking but no horrible, worn to bare wood damage.

    I understand that different playfields from different manufacturers and different eras play into cleaning technic as well. I am now wanting to clean a Stern Meteor playfield. It looks very dirty but I didn't see any planking on initial inspection and no, "worn to bare wood" spots. So after having done more reading I think I want to try magic eraser and 91% alchohol. I understand I need to not be aggressive and from what I've read I'll need to clear coat afterword. My questions are:

    1. If I go this route should I move in a back and forth or circular motion, or does it matter?

    2. Can I get away with a rattle can clear when I'm done? I plan to take everything off the top side of the playfield.I'm not a professional painter!

    3. Do you have any specific advise to cleaning and preserving a 1979 Stern playfield?

    4. If you DO have a recommended method given the make and age of my playfield could you recommend any better technics?

    I know it's hard to give advise without seeing what I'm working on but I can get to the machine this weekend and take some close ups and add them here.

    Thanks in advance, Bub

    #2 3 years ago

    Don’t overdo the cleaning process as it *could* remove more artwork.

    You could go with the option of a playfield protector (Beehive pinball) if you have either a budget limit and/or availability of a new reproduction playfield.

    #3 3 years ago

    I want to clean it. The only reason I brought up clearing it afterwards is because my understanding is if you magic eraser you have to clear coat it. I do have a new CPR playfield but the original should clean up well, just looking for proper technic

    #4 3 years ago

    I find Sterns can often be a bit more delicate than other manufacturers, so I'd be careful.

    If you can't get some real clear (or don't have some spare playfields to practice on) I wouldn't risk the rattle can.

    Quoted from Pinbub:

    3. Do you have any specific advise to cleaning and preserving a 1979 Stern playfield?

    Yeah, don't use magic eraser or alcohol on it

    #5 3 years ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    I find Sterns can often be a bit more delicate than other manufacturers, so I'd be careful.
    If you can't get some real clear (or don't have some spare playfields to practice on) I wouldn't risk the rattle can.

    Yeah, don't use magic eraser or alcohol on it

    I'm all ears......

    #6 3 years ago
    Quoted from Pinbub:

    2. Can I get away with a rattle can clear when I'm done?

    Yes. Like any painting more thinner coats is better.

    ME is no joke man, for me it's not usually worth it trying to get swirl marks out or whatever. It's most valuable in the shooter arch for the thick ball trail.

    #7 3 years ago
    Quoted from TheLaw:

    Yes. Like any painting more thinner coats is better.
    ME is no joke man, for me it's not usually worth it trying to get swirl marks out or whatever. It's most valuable in the shooter arch for the thick ball trail.

    Thanks! Keep the advice coming

    #8 3 years ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    I find Sterns can often be a bit more delicate than other manufacturers, so I'd be careful.
    If you can't get some real clear (or don't have some spare playfields to practice on) I wouldn't risk the rattle can.

    Yeah, don't use magic eraser or alcohol on it

    So what do you recommend? I'll add pictures tomorrow

    #9 3 years ago

    Early in my collecting "career" I owned a Stern Lighting which probably used a similar playfield process to your Meteor... I used some of the Treasure cove product (mid 2K's???) that were available at the time (which I had used to great success on a CV), and used under plastics (thankfully) and it removed artwork on my Lightning... I wound up sticking with Novus 3 & 2, using #3 first in a circular motion by hand. If I were trying it today, I might use a power buffer now that I have experience doing it, but know you *can* burn the paint using this method if you don't have practice... At any rate, by hand, I got some good results "cleaning" my Lightning with the Novus #3...

    Here, you indicate your game has some planking??? I would be careful to distinguish "cleaning" from "wear" on your playfield... You can clean up dirt, but you can't "clean" wear... Just be carful you don't blow through the lacquered artwork, and stick to non-abrasives would be my suggestion given you say there is some planking... Pics might help some of the more experienced playfield restorers weigh in, but I would try to distinguish "dirt" from "wear" based on what you have posted...

    #10 3 years ago

    Sorry if I confused anyone. My Williams Comet has planking. I don't see any yet on the Meteor I'm asking about here.

    #11 3 years ago

    For me it’s in for a penny, in for a pound.

    If I’m going to use any abrasive cleaning methods, I won’t be happy if it removes the topcoat and the playfield begins to wear rapidly.

    So I would either use a playfield protector or clear the playfield. But if I’m clearing it I would have to touch it up first.

    I normally use heavy duty magic eraser cut into cubes and Simple Green. Circular motion as well as back and forth motion constantly changing direction to clean out all the dirt from ball swirls.

    For Freefall, there was so much ground in dirt that the manual process would’ve been too tedious and time consuming. So I used these magic eraser pads for your drill.

    They have the regular foam, not the heavy duty foam so they won’t easily cut into the playfield surface. That said, I wouldn’t use these if the playfield is planking and the artwork is flaking.

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    This playfield was so bad, this is how it looked AFTER cleaning! Look at the original color under the pop bumper ring. It really needed the magic eraser treatment.

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    After a few minutes the results looked promising.

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    I probably spent an hour cleaning up the blue. I can only imagine how long it would’ve taken to clean it manually.

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    Here’s how it turned out after my amateur touch ups and final clear.

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    2 months later
    #12 3 years ago
    Quoted from dothedoo:

    This playfield was so bad, this is how it looked AFTER cleaning!

    I like your results. I would be very happy with that. Nice work.
    -Mike

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