(Topic ID: 271599)

Player selection skip

By icetea

3 years ago


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  • 14 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by icetea
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#1 3 years ago

Hello, just wondering if anyone can assist me. My 300, use to correctly activate each player, based on the input from one player through to four.

Now, when activating two players (the coin slot had been reconnected to a "credit" button to press for player amounts/activation) the machine plays three players, however the 2 player light is shown, but when player two is finished, the machine goes to player number three, then repeats the cycle as a three person game.

As a newbie, I have not worked on the machine much, but I am game !

#2 3 years ago

Hi James, Welcome to pinside!

If the Coin unit is correctly stepping forward only one position when you set up for a two player game, this is the part of the circuit that controls whether the Player unit is stepping for a 1/2/3 or 4 player game. Most likely the Coin unit disk or wipers are dirty or there could be a broken connection.

Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features

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#3 3 years ago

Thanks Howard, and also for the quick replay !

To clean the wipers and or the disk, how and what would you recommend? I am thinking of trying to clean first to, before trying to get into the electrical side of things.

#4 3 years ago

I recommend diagnosing the problem before repairing it.

@MarkG's pinball repair clinic is happening on Thursday
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/an-em-pinball-online-repair-clinic/page/2#post-5708949

Or if you'd like to try a phone call, send me your cellphone number in a private message and I'll make a first reply with a text message.

#5 3 years ago

This is a terrific idea Howard, and I thank you for the info on MarkG's site. I missed the deadline to participate in today's forum, but I signed up for future podcast. To be an observer for today's for clinic, does one still need an invite to watch only ? I understand to participate space is limited, but would be interested in observing the discussion. I may reach out to you on the weekend, if your available to chat about the machine and will send you a private message later today or tomorrow once I know my schedule. Cheers!

#6 3 years ago

If you haven’t already, I’d open the game and locate the coin unit and the player unit and at least watch these “stepper units” as they operate. Note there are rivets which get contacted at various positions. And with power off, you can manually actuate their plunger to understand their incrementing operation. The coin unit will also have a plunger to fully reset the unit. The player unit only increments. Are they sticking/sluggish or are they pretty smooth/snappy?

Like Howard says, start with the coin unit and watch it as you add players at start of game. Does it advance properly (only) one step for each added player? It’s only job is to define the # of players for the current game, so it does not move during the game once all players are “coined up”. Let us know what it is doing.

The player unit is more complex. It keeps track of what ball is being played. Therefore it increments between each ball. It is also wired to manage the active player. 20 of its sequential positions define the 20 total playable balls for a game: Player1-ball1, P2b1, P3b1, P4b1, P1-ball2, P2b2... P4b5. It skips past unneeded positions when # of players is < 4. The ‘add “player” unit’ at left of Howard’s schematic is the coil that increments the player unit. Do not confuse it with “adding players” at coin up.

Here’s a video showing some stepper units. Your coin unit is a total reset stepper like he shows starting at the 2:00 minute mark:

Studying the mechanisms will help you understand them. In time the schematics will make more sense and the two worlds (mechanisms vs. symbols) will become one.

#7 3 years ago

Thanks Jeffc, The coin stepper required a cleaning and then I lightly used a 400 grid paper over the contacts for each player, manually activating the plunger forward through, before resetting. They were grimy.

Now the credit button player selection says on the number of players selected. So two players remains that way after the second player completes each of their balls. There is also no longer a "6th ball" that would sometimes happen after the 5th ball of who plays last.

So far all is working great. Thanks for the video.

3 months later
#8 3 years ago

inside front (resized).JPGinside front (resized).JPGback (resized).JPGback (resized).JPGHello All, I wanted to see if any of you have experienced or have heard of, my most recent problem with my Gottlieb "300" ? While playing it, there became a noticeable humming noise (an increase in power/energy type of noise/with a hum/vibration) and slight vibration that could be felt under the palms of your hands in the playing position.

I turned the machine off, even unplugged it, waited, took the glass out and lifted up the playfield, to see and hear (in terms of the location of the electronic components effected, on either the bottom of the cabinet or the ones attached to the underside of the playfield) would happen when I plugged it in and turned it back on. So, when I turned the machine on the hum was there and the hum continued when the credit button was selected to a player/game start mode. The hum was from the bottom of the machine, seemed to be coming from the inside front area. Hard to pin point, as well, I felt the vibration come from the same palm/hand grip position/placement (front of cabinet) and the coin door was open and was vibrating (it seemed/felt like the noise was coming from the front).

Since it did not sound good, I went to press the power button off, and there was a noise sound, like the one when you score a free game (with either points or match). middle (resized).JPGmiddle (resized).JPGI have not done anything else since that, as it sounded serious, beyond my knowledge (limited), hence the forum !

So, if any of you know of what may be the problem/solution or advice, I would appreciate it.

Thanks

#9 3 years ago

Could be the coin lock-out relay on the coin door or the power hold relay. Try looking at those.

#10 3 years ago

Hi Classicpinballs, would you be able to expand on this, as I am very new to the pinball terminology. Where would these two places be in particular (as I originally believed that the noise was coming from the actual coin door and it was vibrating) and how would one check these areas for defect. If it were a relay on the coin door or power hold relay, I assume that new parts can be ordered ? But unsure as to how one can be sure if the area mentioned is a fault?

#11 3 years ago

A lot of machines have a coin lock out relay. It's there to reject a coin if the machine is powered off so you dont loose it. Typically, there are a couple of coin entrances and the door will have a small coil with a chrome rod connecting the chutes. Where the rod passes through the coin mech.housing/s , the holes or rod its self wears a little and it 'chatters' or vibrates. So look at that to see if that is what is happening. Beware, some machines have line voltage on doors so unplug the machine from the supply before you put your fingers in there! Heres a good article of noisy coils, take a read through: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#buzz

3 weeks later
#12 3 years ago

Hey All, I was wondering to clean contacts, for lights and other electric contact parts, would anyone recommend "Deoxit - contact cleaner" or another product to use to clean contacts ?

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from icetea:

Hey All, I was wondering to clean contacts, for lights and other electric contact parts, would anyone recommend "Deoxit - contact cleaner" or another product to use to clean contacts ?

I cut a non-coated paper plate in strips, dip in alcohol and drag it through the contacts while pulling them together with light pressure.
On heavily soiled contacts I give them a couple of light passes with an ignition file and then clean with the above method.
Q-tips dipped in alcohol make short work of light sockets.

You may wish to start a new Thread to get others cleaning methods.

#14 3 years ago

Thanks, good idea.

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