(Topic ID: 193260)

Playboy - Switch triggers wrong solenoids


By iwantansi

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by acebathound
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 2 years ago

None of my pop bumpers are working when the spoon switch is activated. The right bumper activates the drop target reset and the bottom bumper activates the right slingshot, the left bumper does nothing.

The drop target reset and right slingshot both work as they should with their respective switches... theyre just also activated by the pop bumpers.

What should i look at ?

Game has new Alltek MPU/Solenoid/Lamp board and a new-ish rectifier board..

#2 2 years ago

Go into Switch Test

Take the ball out.

Make sure that the switches are all registering the correct switch # when you trigger them.

It's usually a bad diode that messes up the matrix.

-0

Did it ever work in your possession?

2 weeks later
#3 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Go into Switch Test
Take the ball out.
Make sure that the switches are all registering the correct switch # when you trigger them.
It's usually a bad diode that messes up the matrix.
-0
Did it ever work in your possession?

Went in to switch test along with page 17 from the Playboy manual - marked off each switch as i activated it by hand, the only switch that doesnt activate is coin right... all the others match what they should.

Solenoid test.. these are the ones that have a problem...

4 - left pop - activates drop targets
5 - right pop - activates right sling
6 - bottom pop - does nothing
7 - left sling - does nothing

Now I also got a jumper wire and grounded it to each Q/transistor and every single one of them is doing what they should according to this table..

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Transistor_Mapping_for_Bally_Games

I tested all of the(except the flippers) coil diodes by clipping a leg and they were all good... replaced them with 1n4007 diodes...

i am sort of lost at what to do... the game has never worked properly in my possession...

#4 2 years ago

Now that you've confirmed the switches are ok, your solenoid tests indicate a communication issue from the MPU board to the Solenoid Driver Board (SDB).

You've got an open circuit on the signal known as "PB2" between the MPU board connector J4 Pin 2 and the Solenoid Driver Board connector J4 Pin 4
Wiggle each of these connectors one at a time to see if either "fixes" the problem. Which ever connector fixes it needs to be repinned. If it's the SDB connector, first check the back of the SDB where the connector pins are in case the soldered joint is cracked/fractured and resolder it if needed.

Technically speaking, below is a binary list of the four "PB" signal states between the MPU board and the Solenoid driver board that are used to select a momentary solenoid to activate. You may notice with the condition of your fault, signal PB2 is always stuck on logic high (1) 5volt level.
When the Left Pop Bumper is selected, PB2 should change to a logic low (0) which is zero volts. However when this signal is high (1) the Drop Target Reset is selected which is what's happening in your scenario. Ditto regarding PB2 for your other incorrectly activated solenoids.

PPPP
BBBB
3210
====
0000 - N/A
0001 - N/A
0010 - N/A
0011 - N/A
0100 - N/A
0101 - Knocker
0110 - Outhole
0111 - Grotto Kickback
1000 - Left Pop Bumper
1001 - Right Pop Bumper
1010 - Bottom Pop Bumper
1011 - Left Slingshot
1100 - Drop Target Reset
1101 - Right Slingshot
1110 - N/A
1111 - None

#6 2 years ago

Quench -

Thanks for that info - I have a Centaur I've been working on that is having a similar issue. The info gives me a clear path on where to head.

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Thanks for that info

No worries, I often advise people in these tech threads without explaining how or why which doesn't help people learn. So hopefully me going into detail will help someone along the way. Good luck diagnosing your Centaur!

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

first check the back of the SDB where the connector pins are in case the soldered joint is cracked/fractured and resolder it if needed.

Its got all new boards except for the sound board, so there shouldnt be any issues with the boards hopefully...

I'll get in to the connectors and report back...

#9 2 years ago

If you want a Classic Bally to be totally bulletproof, you need to put new contacts in all those board connectors.

You don't need new plastic housings, just the internal contacts.

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If you want a Classic Bally to be totally bulletproof, you need to put new contacts in all those board connectors.
You don't need new plastic housings, just the internal contacts.

Can i instead just put a bullet in it and call it done?

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#11 2 years ago
Quoted from iwantansi:

Can i instead just put a bullet in it and call it done?

It's pinball, it's never done.

#12 2 years ago

bah - sure enough a little pressure on P4 connector on the SDB and it appears everything works... time for some cutting, stripping, crimping...

#13 2 years ago

Replaced the pins and voila... working playboy - thanks pinside

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from iwantansi:

Replaced the pins and voila... working playboy - thanks pinside

Are those RETROFIT conversion displays in it? I couldn't tell for sure. I'm really wanting a picture for the gallery, with magenta filters installed in Playboy

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from acebathound:

Are those RETROFIT conversion displays in it? I couldn't tell for sure. I'm really wanting a picture for the gallery, with magenta filters installed in Playboy

they the ones that the guy on here sells from Europe...

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from iwantansi:

they the ones that the guy on here sells from Europe...

Oh ok! Back to waiting

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