(Topic ID: 117865)

Plating Parts - what have you folks done?

By jodini

9 years ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by Tilt
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#1 9 years ago

I'm in the process of plating some parts on my World Champ. Was wondering what your thoughts were on this. Do you plate the screws, or just buy new? Do you Chrome plate or nickel? Do you plate the coin slots? What's the typical cost? I'm having a company here in town that have done other items for me in the past (not pinball related) and they do a pretty nice job, but I do remember nickle plating was much cheaper and has nice results also.

Thoughts?

#2 9 years ago

Here are the parts I'm pondering about.

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#3 9 years ago

I believe nickel plating is cheaper because you nickel plate than chrome over that.I like the look of chrome myself but thats all subjective.

#4 9 years ago

Regardless of cost, most early plating was nickel (at least for most Gottlieb games I've owned). Mike Chestnut (Horsepower Unlimited) has done a great job for myself and many others. He's pretty busy, so if you use him, make sure you allow turn around time.

#5 9 years ago

For Gottlieb EM games the plating was nickel. Coin doors, coin bezels, playfield parts, playfield glass receiver channel, top side screws, And nickel is the last step before they apply chrome when chrome plating. At least that's the way that Mike Chestnut explained it to me.

I made the mistake of having some parts for my Gottlieb EM games replated in chrome by Mike. While they came out amazing (Mike's work is top notch and he is my single source go to guy) the chrome stood out as non original. My eyes were drawn to it and a friend of mine noticed it immediately. I wanted original appearance. Lesson learned.

I actually brought these parts back to Mike last month when we were at the Keller bash in St. Charles and he is going to strip and refinish these in nickel.

Mike commented more than once how the chrome is more durable but for a game that is going to be cared for nickel plating will be just fine.

#6 9 years ago

I re-plate if electroplated parts are rusty or tarnished. It is especially good for older door parts. I use this kit and buy extra solution every once and a while.
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-tin-zinc-electroplating-system.html

Examples below were parts that were either a black finish and rusty or previously plated and are now rusty. I use a the dremel and clean the heck out of them after soaking the part overnight in evaporust.

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#7 9 years ago

One thing I don't understand is how do these parts, such as coin doors rust if they are plated? Why is it that the side rails don't seem to rust as readily? You don't see rust on side rails very often.

#8 9 years ago

Could it be that peoples hands are all over these coin door parts?

#9 9 years ago

More than on the side rails?

#10 9 years ago

JR, If you are talking about metal era side rails, they were made from stainless steel, which is much more resistant to rust than other plating (nickel or chrome) I have seen pitting on stainless, but it takes a lot of prolonged moisture to make that happen. Notice those stainless coin doors have very little problem with rust.

#11 9 years ago

First post, yes no avatar yet. But being a plater for over 30 years and still doing it now, it gives me something to weigh in on. If the chrome looks too bright then have them plate dull nickel first (no brightener). You build up the nickel thickness with dull nickel for rust prevention then hit it with a short time of bright nickel.
There is two kinds of chrome plating that I have worked with. Hexavalent and trivalent. Hex is for stuff like rims, bumpers. Tri is for toasters or decorative stuff. Hex will eat the septum separating your nostrils and you have the fun of them repairing the missing part.
I have worked in a captive shop and now a job shop, but never restoration which I can do but prepping the work isn't my forte. And please spell nickel, n i c k e l.
The inside of coin doors don't look nickel plated to me. Maybe an alkaline tin.

#12 9 years ago

Yeah, I thought they might be stainless steel, but they're still magnetic, right? Higher grade stainless is non-magnetic. Lockdown bars must be stainless as well, because you don't see rust on them very often. But still, I would think plating would protect steel from rusting, since nickel itself doesn't rust. It must be a very, very thin coating. Come to think of it though, chrome bumpers on older cars do rust as well. I guess plating isn't very good rust protection for steel over the long haul.

#13 9 years ago
Quoted from uzi1951:

First post, yes no Avatar yet. But being a plater for over 30 years and still doing it now, it gives me something to weigh in on. If the chrome looks too bright then have them plate dull nickel first (no brightener). You build up the nickel thickness with dull nickel for rust prevention then hit it with a short time of bright nickel.
There is two kinds of chrome plating that I have worked with. Hexavalent and trivalent. Hex is for stuff like rims, bumpers. Tri is for toasters or decorative stuff. Hex will eat the septum separating your nostrils and you have the fun of them repairing the missing part.
I have worked in a captive shop and now a job shop, but never restoration which I can do but prepping the work isn't my forte. And please spell nickel, n i c k e l.
The inside of coin doors don't look nickel plated to me. Maybe an alkaline tin.

Thanks for the information. Any other tips you can lend on the subject are appreciated.

#14 9 years ago

Yes...thanks uzi1951 and everyone else that has chimed in. I would have to agree that chrome is too shinny on this old game.

I've decided to check the prices on the nickle plating and go from there. Once again, PBResources has amazed me on what they have. So pretty well the plating company has to do it for $7.00 or less of each item, or I can just order new ones from Steve Young for $6.60! Also he has the bolts for them also for cheap.
I've said it once, and I'll say it again...where would we be without PBR!

#15 9 years ago
Quoted from jodini:

Yes...thanks uzi1951 and everyone else that has chimed in. I would have to agree that chrome is too shinny on this old game.
I've decided to check the prices on the nickle plating and go from there. Once again, PBResources has amazed me on what they have. So pretty well the plating company has to do it for $7.00 or less of each item, or I can just order new ones from Steve Young for $6.60! Also he has the bolts for them also for cheap.
I've said it once, and I'll say it again...where would we be without PBR!

By no means is this a jab at pbresource. But I thought this as well on a restore that i did earlier this year. I had several playfield parts that were plated and had pitted over time. I checked with some platers and then saw that PBR had new ones in stock at a fraction of the cost. SO i went that route. Got the parts, and then had to send them to be plated. Just because his parts are NOS, does not mean that they are perfect. plated parts can rust on his shelves just like they do on our games

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