Trying to do this the easy way. I have a 128x64 dmd that is partially working. The little orange 32 pin connector is all cracked and falling apart..see pics. Trying to find some easy replacement any ideas?
Matt
16573316657022180113702627774182 (resized).jpg16573316847154557119246234798200 (resized).jpgI saw somewhere that Vishay repairs their plasma displays. I don't know if this is a Vishay or if they still repair their displays.
Do you have a part number for this display? It looks like it has similar spacing and pixel size to 128 x 32 but is 128 x 64. This is unlike the 128 x 64 display used by Sega in some of their machines.
I have no experience with repairing these glass displays but I think once the wires come out of the sealed glass you can't easily repair them. Do not take that as gospel. I have no experience with repairing these glass displays.
If the pixel size and pitch is the same as a 128 x 32 and the logic is the same as the standard 128 x 32 display it should be possible to build an LED compatible display. The logic just needs to interpret (decode) the serial data but for 64 rows instead of 32 rows.
There is a pin2dmd 128x64 display (DMDMK66) available. So, you're not completely SOL if this can't be fixed.
Quoted from DTAC:The little orange 32 pin connector is all cracked and falling apart
I've seen people solder in thin jumper wires (30 awg, maybe?) to replace a damaged ribbon cable between the glass and PCB.
Quoted from DumbAss:I saw somewhere that Vishay repairs their plasma displays. I don't know if this is a Vishay or if they still repair their displays.
Here's the info...though it's 7 years old now. Who knows if that person is still there or if they're even still offering repairs.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/is-my-dmd-repairable#post-2490650
Quoted from ForceFlow:There is a pin2dmd 128x64 display (DMDMK66) available. So, you're not completely SOL if this can't be fixed.
I've seen people solder in thin jumper wires (30 awg, maybe?) to replace a damaged ribbon cable between the glass and PCB.
Example: https://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=28601
Hmm. I would rather replace it with a led version
Quoted from DTAC:I could fix it easily if I had the correct ribbon cable .
I highly doubt it. Been there, done that. Once ribbbon connections to the display glass are broken, they cannot be fixed:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/why-repairing-a-ribbon-style-dmd-is-impossible
Quoted from Crash:I highly doubt it. Been there, done that. Once ribbbon connections to the display glass are broken, they cannot be fixed:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/why-repairing-a-ribbon-style-dmd-is-impossible
Honestly all the pads are there and I've already desoldered the old cable in case of no other options.
The real problems though come when you try and solder the new cable on to the pads on the display glass, as they are carbon pads.
Quoted from Crash:The real problems though come when you try and solder the new cable on to the pads on the display glass, as they are carbon pads.
Did someone ever try a repair with ACF tape/film instead of soldering on the fragile carbon pads?
Quoted from harig:Did someone ever try a repair with ACF tape/film instead of soldering on the fragile carbon pads?
I'm not sure. I'd like to see someone try.
Sometime in the past, the use of conductive glue was used to fix an old DMD that the leads had broken off from the glass. Since the pads exist and are conductive but not solder-able perhaps the use of electrically conductive glue/epoxy would be worth a try before giving up.
Quoted from minnesota13:Sometime in the past, the use of conductive glue was used to fix an old DMD that the leads had broken off from the glass. Since the pads exist and are conductive but not solder-able perhaps the use of electrically conductive glue/epoxy would be worth a try before giving up.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09117-Complete-Window-Defogger/dp/B000ALBZJY/ref=sr_1_5
Quoted from gdonovan:amazon.com link »
I remember trying it on the rear defogger on my '74 VW. After waiting for it to cure for a day, I turned it on and it glowed like a fuse about to blow and then disintegrated. But that was high current, the display is low current. My dad repaired the defogger by tack soldering phone wire across the break.
Quoted from MrBally:I remember trying it on the rear defogger on my '74 VW. After waiting for it to cure for a day, I turned it on and it glowed like a fuse about to blow and the disintegrated. But that was high current, the display is low current. My dad repaired the defogger by tack soldering phone wire across the break.
Might depend on product used, when I was a dealer tech back in the 80's we repaired several defroster grids this way but I can't remember the exact product brand.
Something like this product:
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Conductive-Conductivity-8331D-14G/dp/B08K3TG5D9/ref=sr_1_3
Quoted from DTAC:Any ideas? No one else makes a LED display?
It seems repair is the path of least resistance but this path has its challenges.
Quoted from DumbAss:If the pixel size and pitch is the same as a 128 x 32 and the logic is the same as the standard 128 x 32 display it should be possible to build an LED compatible display. The logic just needs to interpret (decode) the serial data but for 64 rows instead of 32 rows.
No one makes one? Make one yourself! Or get help to make one. It depends on how much time, money and effort you want to put into it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/12#post-6578684
Quoted from gdonovan:Might depend on product used, when I was a dealer tech back in the 80's we repaired several defroster grids this way but I can't remember the exact product brand.
No doubt the junk was from J. C. Whitney/Warshawsky & Co. Fits most cars; not yours..
I’m surprised no one has suggested the best looking (albeit pricey) option: https://shop.colordmd.com/x-led-displays/
Quoted from play_pinball:I’m surprised no one has suggested the best looking (albeit pricey) option: https://shop.colordmd.com/x-led-displays/
I just emailed them earlier today.
Quoted from play_pinball:I’m surprised no one has suggested the best looking (albeit pricey) option: https://shop.colordmd.com/x-led-displays/
Those are 192x64 displays, not the uncommon 128x64 size.
As long as the adhesive solder part is still present on the carbon pads it's possible... too bad you are in LA. If you haven't already done so, I would not remove the entire ribbon cable, just flip it over so the glass is on your working surface and run kynar jumper wires https://www.amazon.com/Solid-Kynar-EX-ELECTRONIX-EXPRESS/dp/B07V6MW3GM on the parts where the cable broke free. If the adhesive overlay part is still there, you can "slide" the kynar wires in... I'm about 50/50 on repairing these over the years. It does take a steady hand and tedious patience. Sadly, a LOT of times they are just not repairable.
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