(Topic ID: 270098)

Pitch and Bat Coin Meter Coil Meltdown

By CarrieZ

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Buffett
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 3 years ago

I am starting my first EM repair project and didn’t get far before needing some advice. I picked up a 1966 Williams Pitch and Bat project. When I power it up, the score motor runs continuously. After checking fuses, I did a visual inspection. The first thing I noticed was that there was just a single strand of a wire connected to what looked to be the melted inside of the coin meter. When I pulled the coin meter apart, I saw that the coil is crispy. It’s listed as the Total Play Meter on the schematics and it appears that the coil is a B-63-96, which I can't find any reference to from any pinball parts seller. However, the outside of the coin meter housing lists B-6396 as the part number, which leaves me wondering whether I was wrong in thinking B-63-96 was the number for the coil and instead the schematics listed the part number for the entire coin meter. As you can tell from the photos, any markings on my coil burned off a very long time ago. I'd be grateful for any information on the proper coil for the coin meter and suggestions on where to buy a replacement.

Coin meter 3 (resized).jpgCoin meter 3 (resized).jpgCoin meter 1 (resized).jpgCoin meter 1 (resized).jpgCoin meter 2 (resized).jpgCoin meter 2 (resized).jpg

#2 3 years ago

Welcome to Pinside.

This part was critical back when the games were on location to the operators. Disconnect and forget about it as it does not control any other functions than counting the coins added to the game.

The easiest way to get A suitable coil is to look on eBay for a 24v counter to be listed. Not critical at all in the home so don’t pay much more than $10.

#3 3 years ago

Thank you so much for the information and the welcome, Steve! Since I was diagnosing the score motor issue, I thought I better install it just in case, but sounds like it shouldn't be creating the problem I'm having, so I'll skip it. The mystery of the score motor continues, but at least I can rule this out!

#4 3 years ago

After removing, be sure to connect the coil power wires back together and insulate them. It looks like they are the two black wires (?) that were soldiered to the same tab.

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from CarrieZ:

Thank you so much for the information and the welcome, Steve! Since I was diagnosing the score motor issue, I thought I better install it just in case, but sounds like it shouldn't be creating the problem I'm having, so I'll skip it. The mystery of the score motor continues, but at least I can rule this out!

You will need a schematic to assist you understanding the score motor not stopping. You can google Pinball Resource (PBR) and email Jimmy to sent you one. Great resource but old fashioned and you pay by checks including electronic so it's easy Peasy.

The score motor at start up initially reset the score reels, relay banks, running men and any other relay. Once it does, it stops. The reason usually they don't stop is that the reels are dirty. The shematic will show you all the things resettable that need to be reviewed.

Plenty of people here can assist you.

Steve

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

After removing, be sure to connect the coil power wires back together and insulate them. It looks like they are the two black wires (?) that were soldiered to the same tab.

Thanks! Good point not to leave that toasty tab loose in the game. (Couldn't resist a chance to post another picture. I've seen plenty of burnt parts when repairing video games, but I'm still impressed that it completely melted off. It must have stunk when it happened!)

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2 weeks later
#7 2 years ago

Hey Hey there my lady,

Any update?

Peace
Buffett

#8 2 years ago

Buffett!! It's great to see a familiar face here! I don't have any successes to report quite yet. I'm taking the above advice to just go without replacing the coil. I desperately need to order the schematics since the ones I've found online don't seem to match my game and it's miserable to try to deal with them on a dinky computer screen. I have discovered that my 120v isn't working properly as neither the light bulbs in the front nor the fluorescent bulb in the backglass are illuminating. They both test at about 33v. It appears that 120v is being delivered to the connector, but there seems to be an issue with the neutral line. I'm not getting continuity from the transformer to the connector, so my next quest is to hunt down the breakdown. Given how filthy all the wiring is so you can't tell the colors, and the many connections that are involved, this will be fun! I'm hoping to get the 120v working before I turn back to the issue of my continuously running score motor. Thanks for checking in on me and the game!

#9 2 years ago

Hey Hey.

you have made some progress, you know your 120v is not correct and may be on the right track.

the actual schematics will be super helpful in tracking your issue down.
nothing like having it all out in front of you to look at, at the same time.

depending on how the game is wired and how it is setup you may find this helpful.

ebay.com link: Classic Wire Tone Generator Probe TracerTracker RJ11 Line Finder Cable Tester

you would use it to trace out a wire that you think is broken.

it does not need to be grounded on both ends as it just generates a signal that goes threw the wire you connect it to and the wand picks up the signal when you get close to it in the wiring bundle.

you just follow the signal to where it stops and see what you have.

you can connect it too any wire to test how it works and get use to how the signal changes on the speaker when you are close or getting farther away from it.

this may make it easier to track down your break if it is in the middle of a bundle and help keep you from cutting all the wire wrap apart.

i use this tool when i am trying to figure out how a house is wired and there is a break somewhere that i cannot locate or track the complete run of a circuit to count the amount of devices it has so i don't overload the circuit if i need an additional device wired in like an outlet or some lighting.

good luck, hope it helps.

i have an old one that was given to me in my tool box.

Peace
Buffett

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