I have a few repair tips for this game. I will do my best to write them up now and add pictures in a bit.

Ramp - Protect the ramp with metal protectors. I had to make mine out of some spring steel

Power Supply - Biggest thing that fails is PP10 connector burns up. The traces on the board are to small and heat with the amount of current. Jumper or build up solder on the middle pin (5) to the lower left pin (7). These are on the same trace from the factory but the trace burns up so a jumper helps with this.

I'm an owner...game currently resides with my neighbor as I ran out of room. Used to sit next to my SM and PP received more love from the kids.

I question the 200 production number tho. Mystery Castle is listed at 500 in ipdb but it's been fairly well proven from serial numbers that there were 250 MCS made. But empirically I see PP for sale way more often so I assume that PP was closer to the 500 attributed to MC.

No argument there....true for Alvin g in general....I was able to get some of the clear targets in red blue and yellow and some nos ramps for my MC...and cliffy made protectors using a template from my MC. I've wanted to get a spare mpu and driver board but haven't run across any.

Does anybody who owns a Pistol Poker not have the multi-ball bug? I heard somewhere that a newer version of the software may exist (that possibly addresses this issue)? I love the game but that bug is enough to drive me bonkers.

I almost bought one from a rout operator a while back. Was sitting in a dark warehoue and really couldn't see it that well, but was scared off by the fact that parts are nearly impossible to find. I love the art on this one though.

I need a new lower cabinet for mine... But I'm in the club!

I wish I had kept one of these. I had a nib (but water damaged backside of backbox) and a nice but little play one. I think I payed somewhere around $500 to $700 Got these from a place in Lansing Michigan ten plus years ago. Fun game, but the upper playfield was missing/seemed incomplete. The backglasses were always covered with a full mylar. Yes parts are hard to come by.

Yes I always feel like the upper playfield needs a left flipper by the habitrail. I'm always wanting to flip the ball there.

Yes, that's exactly what happens. You're in multi-ball and everything's going great, then all of the sudden the game's over even though there are still balls in play (maybe one by the plunger or bouncing around on top). From what I understand, the software was never finished in the sense that this bug exists. I've just heard it referred to as the "multi-ball bug".

I'm not in front of the game so I'm not sure which version of the software I have, but I read somewhere that there may be a newer version than what I have, which is why I was asking if anyone had it or if their game didn't have the multi-ball bug (so I could check their version of the software).

If you do a google search for "pistol poker multi ball bug" you'll see lots of topics on it.

My club

I own my 3 "Alvin G." for quite a while. MC and garageband are fun, PP is a little bit boring if you have it for a longer time.
However ... Alvin G. history is a very intresting episode in pinball !! Too bad that they had no chance on the market.

For my pinball buddys its always a challenge at my home. AFM, MM, MB ... nearly everyone owns this games but on PP, MC and garageBand in conjunction with Airborne and Breakshot .... hard time for them on my machines
After 15 years in the hobby, I had many many machines ... but the Alvin G.´s are the middle of my collection.
It was hard to find them ....

Where is Matt ?? our Alvin G. PRO ?

Software: my R3 ROMS have also problems on multiballs but meanwhile I expect that this is a switch problem in the ball through.
Therefor the PP is off on the pics ....

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I am in the club. Neat country and western theme.

Hi Tom,

Owner of 522910 checking in.

PP is an awesome game! I flip flop between it and MC being my favorite Alvin G, but then again I love them all!

Hey Robert,

Yeah, the serial number thing is always going to be in question. That said, after all these years collecting serial numbers it does look pretty clear that MC was about 226 units, and Michael Gottlieb all but confirmed that.

PP does seem to pop up fairly often and I had always attributed that to the fact that a whole bunch of these were still on the dock when Alvin G closed up in March of '94, and instead of being routed and parted out or stashed away in operator's warehouses, a lot of them went to directly to homeowners. And, since the game was pretty much universally hated, they changed hands a lot.

While I still think this is part of why we see them a bunch, I too am now thinking there were more than 200 made. A while back I started thinking about the new serial number scheme that Alvin G used on PP and it appears to me that they simply added a "10" to the end of every number. I disregarded these last two digits and took the highest and lowest numbers from my log book and I get 371 (serials 553910-516810). I need a lot more PP serials to make a final conclusion, but I think I'm on the right track. Please send me your serial numbers guys and gals (for any Alvin G games)! Thanks!

I personally really like the upper playfield to PP. A lot of upper playfield games, I find that the strategy is "shoot the ball to the upper playfield, keep it there, then do it again". PP makes it clear that it can't stay up there too long at least.

I need more time on mine, but from what I have played of it, it's unique. And I like unique!

I bought a Pistol Poker late last summer. I had the multi-ball issue as well. I pulled my hair out for a while, thinking bad switch, software error, etc. After a multi-ball game there would be 1 and sometimes 2 balls left in the shooter lane when game ended. One day I had the apron off and I was observing the action of the outhole kicker and noticed that kicker was very harsh when kicking the ball over to the ball release mechanism. I also noticed there was some peening on the underside of the apron which suggested that the balls were hopping and hitting it.

So here's the problem, when you have 2 or 3 balls on the playfield and one drains, the trough is empty and the strong kicker would hit so hard that the ball would go too far and end up at the shooter lane release switch. That switch will activate the release coil every time a ball lands on it. If the trough was loaded with 2 or 3 balls, this wouldn't be an issue because the balls cannot jump over the bar with those balls in the way.

When I bough the game the seller was nice enough to give me 3 extra NOS coils. One of which was CLL-004(same coil as the shooter lane release coil). This coil has almost twice the resistance of the CLL-006 which is what the game calls for in the outhole kicker mech. A higher resistant coil has a weaker(softer) action. I swapped the 006 to the 004 and it seems to have eliminated the problem of the balls jumping over the trough bar and so far after about 100 games, the game not lost track of any balls. The CLL-006 coil is way to strong for what it needs to do IMO. It only has to move the ball about 6-8 inches, but it's strong enough to be used on a sling or pop bumper.

I hope many of you can try this and report on your results.

Rich

Wow ... Lovef2k what intresting news !!
Please hold a look on this topic, I will try to get such a coil ! That sounds like a logical solution, hopefully you are right !

Thanks for sharing !!

Good luck, I hope it works out for you!

Wow, thanks Rich - this could turn out to be some invaluable information! I just figured it was a software bug because everything I read described it that way. As I mentioned above, this issue is driving me bonkers. Just last weekend I talked to a friend who also has a PP and he said he didn't have this issue, so I was going to check his software version but maybe his coil isn't as strong - or maybe the later runs of the game had some changes made.

I may try to move the actuator arm a little to slow down the force in the outhole. I'll report back if I can replicate the success that Rich had.

Has anyone tried changing out their outhole kicker coil yet? I would like to see if this helps other games with the multi-ball broblem.

I was reading this thread in response to the general lack of information regarding AGC and my other thread.
I did not see this one in the clubs, good catch.
Latest 2016 Mr. Pinball Price Guide lists PP at 580 machine production, and AGB at 350 (which seems really low).

The "multiball bug" exists in all AGC games that have this function. It is a design issue based on the switch matrix inputs that go into the MPU/solenoid driver board in combination with game coding. It is not exclusively a ball trough coil/switch issue, but can be made WORSE with this problem. Literally the game can lose track of balls if more than one switch is activated at the same time. Normally, this is not a big deal, but during MB it can be problematic if a ball lands on a VUK at a critical moment for example. A ball search ends up being required. It has nothing directly to do with the switches, coils, or assemblies. Another solution for the ball trough coil is to use a stronger assembly spring to increase the resistance of the coil kick without having to swap it out. Nothing is changed or damaged.

The only way to fix this would be to add a time delay in switch game code or MPU board upgrade of which neither is going to happen. The one thing you can do is reduce the problem is keeping the games highly tuned so you do not have additional switch issues, which compounds the problem exponentially.

If you want to protect your targets make sure the foam backing is solid on the targets, and use foam adhesive circles on the front side of stationary targets. A couple people make decaled ones that do really help them from cracking and preservative their lifespan.

Spare board sets are still available from a number of sources, but for how long I do not know.
Once they are gone, they are gone, just like Capcom boards will be eventually.

PP# 542210 checking in from Yuma, AZ. Picked up up off Craigslist from a guy in Phoenix about 7 years ago. Had to ship the PS to the east coast to get some capacitors replaced, the sound wasn't working (despite the prior owner's numerous attempts to fix it... All I did was notice the data cable to the sound board was misaligned by one pin), and I had to order a NOS display board from Australia. Other than that, she's in pretty good shape. Cabinet paint will flake someday, and the flippers could use a rebuild (any advice on that? Not like Marco sells kits for it).
I've only seen the multiball bug a couple times, but I have had issues with it getting 'lost' after modes, specifically towards the end before and after 'wizard' mode. You can still score points but pretty much all the features go dormant, and none of the cards will light. Lose the ball, and all is well again.
I've always wanted a split playfield game, and I actually really enjoy it. Only downside is unless you find someone who plays it regularly, I don't think it lends well to new players scoring well. Getting the hang of the Ready Aim Fire and completing the poker hands seems to baffle people.

Owners are SOL on flipper plungers and links, as they do not exist in quantity, just lying around in somebody's part box.
The rest of the parts including EoS can be replaced using 1990s GTB machines as they are very similar.
It is also possible to "upgrade" assemblies using late model WMS parts, but the game will no longer be original, and some adjustments must be made.
Reference the parts number in the manual and do a comparison.

Ooops

These are not the same links, the AGC ones are blue and impossible to find.
Flipper pawls are completely non-existent, as are most parts, unless bought in quantity about 15 years ago.
They are not the same.
As I stated I am talking about a one to one replacement, not a pseudo replacements and retrofits.
This was mentioned in my previous post as an alternative.

You're right....Had a brain fart moment....the link I replaced was on a Capcom, also impossible to find parts at times. Fortunately, my PP and MC have had no need for flipper rebuilds

FYI, PinballAustralia has AG parts from time to time: http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/playfield-parts/flipper-parts/lap-002.html

They had a larger stock which is becoming smaller and smaller. I ordered several times AG parts for my machines.
I bought also one of the mysterious PCA-018A and a friend of mine checked them and he is pretty sure that they will also work in all AG machines with some modifications.

My PP has the worst flipper assemblies, so by time I will change them with System 11 parts, in the past I saw and played a machine with this modification. It is not original but plays like a charme due to new parts available. original is nice but it will not help if all is worne out.

Hey fellow Alvin G collectors... I have been working with Jorg on a version of PIN2DMD for Pistol Poker - it's almost done. I'm pretty psyched about the ability to grab a PinballSP setup for under $200 to colorize the machine!! Great value!

Looking forward to see a video !!
Always great if people work on coloring and share with the communitie !!

I would like to buy a board instead ColorDMD for RoadShow , but so far there are no really nice color setups done and I am to stupid to do so and have not the time.

Let us see PP !!

hey guys... here is Sascha.

I designed the V1 and V2 Shields for the Pin2DMD Setup.
PinballSP just covered everything (but he makes a real good job and made it on one pcb with smd comp.).

There is a new V3 Shield on the market right now.
With WiFi functions, Seriell OUT (to trigger events over smart DMD function), REAL Pinball DMD Input Signal enhancer, GO-DMD function (check www.go.dmd.de ), flat design to hook directly to a P2.5 DMD 128x32 pixel (allmost the same size like an original DMD).

and a nice discount for the next 7 Orders (and anyways cheaper as the german V3 Shield).
The most parts on the Shield are bougth in the USA (everything except the PinHeaders, and GO-DMD Sensors).
PCB is made in China, with a great Quality (sorry, but prototyping in the US is to expensive, I wish that the boards would be made here).

here is the link to my Order Thread:
http://vpuniverse.com/forums/forums/topic/2250-pin2dmd-order-thread-worldwide/

regards
Sascha aka UncleSash

FB: www.facebook.com/UncleSash <- check it out for some nice PCB stuff

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And again ...

it would be better marketing to show some results instead offering the hardware and nobody knows whar to o with it

I found this post interesting and because I really love my PP - and so decided to check this theory out for myself. Prior to reading this I avoided selecting multiball modes because it would always result in ruining the game due to the "multiball error".

I removed the apron and played a few games to see if I saw in my machine the behavior Rich noticed. Great catch Rich! I noticed the same behavior in my machine - the CLL-006 coil would snap the ball forcefully from the drain up to the "holding area" and like a newton's cradle (those clacking balls people sometimes have on their desks) - the balls already in the holding area would transmit the force of the CLL-006 from the first to the last ball in the stack knocking it out into the shooter lane when it really shouldn't have been released.

After reading this saw that Steve Young's Pinball Resource has the CLL-004 coils in stock - so I replaced the CLL-006 that was in the machine with one from Steve. Best money I ever spent. I won't say that it's perfect (my PP still regularly releases a ball into the shooter lane when it initializes after first being turned on) but I don't experience the multiball failure anymore.

If you like your Pistol Poker and want to make it more fun - do this update - you'll be glad you did!

I'm glad this helped you. Some still say there's a software glitch in these games but switching the coil helped mine. You might have a switch issue causing the ball in the shooter lane at boot up.

Just joined the club yesterday. Game is dirty but will play for now. Just happy to have all 3 full size production Alvin G's and Capcoms. Still working out the quirks in Mystery Castle, but Pistol Poker seems to have a lot more going on than Als Garage Band. From what I have played so far it does seem like the playfield isn't quite as well thought out for flow. The horseshoe orbit shot likes to go straight down the middle at times. That being said it is quite fun and quite challenging.

Does anyone know a source for r03 roms? I have read multiple places that the latest is ag10/r03, but I cannot seem to find them? The ones on ipd do not list the version and the pinmame ones come up as ag10/r02.

Thanks, this information was very helpful. I just move outhole switch bracket far way right side so switch arm is now under ball. Problem was that switch between two balls. This fix problem when You turn game on so it don´t drop ball to the shootinglane. And also fix the problem with multiball bug.

Only problem what I have is "collect Your hand" lower play field "left side, ace spade" and middle one "under aim light" I change all four switch and adjust those but still not collect all the time. Sometimes collect and sometime don´t. But when I try to test and look the problem the problem disappears. If You have ideas, please tell me.

My target are also broken but I made my self, ok its square.

Flipper bushing and links I change Gottlieb system 3 and flippers is now (Bally-Midway) A-3994-6 and those fit and play nicely.

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Ahhh ... Gottlieb Sys3 mechanics will fit ??
nice to know , I was thinking about switching to BW Sys11 as a workaround ... its a nightmare with parts !

Yes. Only thing, I don´t know the plunger link, because I made it my self. I take photo so that can tell everything.

Just got my licence to this club yesterday. Played a little on it but needs a lot of tuning and I get annoyed really fast when it's not just right. Also fixed the first few things. Really hard to get used to not being able to find parts and not a lot of information. My machine gave an Flasher problem error at startup and flashers weren't working. They did work in test-mode. I noticed the ramp flashers went on with every other flasher and stayed on a lot longer. Found out it was just a shorted mosfet and the flashers go through a relay that shuts of the power so that's why it behaved like that. Also had some lose flippers. I found out that the cranks had worn out threads in them. Since no new parts are available I decided to tap new treads on there. I went 1.5 mm bigger and it worked out great. A lot of work for relatively small problems but nothing major left on the machine, just some cleaning, rubbering and adjusting. Here are some pictures of my machine. 20170705_204033 (resized).jpg20170705_204516 (resized).jpg20170705_204510 (resized).jpg20170705_204505 (resized).jpg20170705_202007 (resized).jpg

Welcome to the club !!

I have a question regarding the multiball. I only have the bug one in a while and I just shoot the extra ball into play and it doesn't bother me too much. But an other thing I noticed when going into multiball, if you haven't collected the chips of the last hand you were playing as megamode starts, it goes back to first having to collect cards. Even if you already collected the hand. Do all PP's have this? I find this more annoying than 1 out of 20 megamodes feeding an extra ball in the shooterlane. I don't have the problem that the ball is shot too hard so it flies into the shooterlane.

I bought this machine back in 2012 for a good price but the machine did not work. It was missing a DMD. The machine would not light up or play. Someone even stole the Plunger launch gauge cover(seller didn't tell me until I picked it up) (I actually think i bought the cover from the guy who stole it because he lived 25 miles from seller of machine. Long story short.. A gentleman came out to help fix machine but ended up taking parts from it.)

I got the machine up and running after checking fuses and replacing missing cr2325 battery on main board. I bought a DMD, replaced plunger launch cover(I still need to paint to specs).

Machine plays fully except I have two problems:

1.The plunger doesn't have enough power to get the pinball on the playfield every time plunged.

2.The DMD doesn't work correctly. I checked the voltage to the pins on the connector and there are missing voltages where there should be voltage. I replaced board with one from PSPA Australia (I bought extra boards just in case I would need them in the future) and the DMD and voltage still didn't register correctly. I think i have a faulty transformer?

Any thoughts or ideas on how to fix the machine or what I should look at?

Transformer would be one of the last placed I would look. It a bit hard to find good informatie about these games. I would first check any connectors for cold solder joints. What voltages are you missing?

Hi All, I have serial number 523610. I bought it for my wife a couple of years ago for a gift as she really loves pinball. Anyway, I need to know how the upper level comes off the lower level. I've replaced all of the bumper rubber bands and cleaned it, except under the upper level. The other day my wife let me know there is a part floating around in it. The part is a metal bar about 4" long and bent on both ends, but I have to get the upper level off to replace it. It is in great shape with only a couple of nicks otherwise. Any help from you knowledgeable guys would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Again.

Mhh .. if I remember right it was only removing 3 or 4 screws from the upper playfield to lift it up.
Dont forget the wiring harness under the playfield to unplug.
Under the upper playfield are several metal lanes, I am sure the wire you found is one of it.

Matt !! We need you Matt

On the left side of the upper PF, lower plastic, there should be a hole with a white nylon acorn nut showing above the Jail. Also, right side, just below the flipper, there's another. If I remember right, that's all that's actually holding it down. BUT, you'll also need to allow the wireform drain to move (I think I just unscrewed the lower end of mine and let it kinda dangle) and I believe the entire ramp will want to swing up as well with the upper PF. The two pics at the end of the IPDB entry with the upper PF raised are mine from when I had to figure it out for myself, and may help with where the rail came from. I'm pretty sure you can just slide the main PF forward and rest it on the supports, and have enough clearance to flip it all up. At least they were courteous enough to include a kickstand for the upper PF as well. Probably a few posts under there that could use fresh rubber too. I don't recall needing to unplug anything to raise it, and my pics on IPDb look like it's all plugged in.

I was in the game business from 73 to the 90's. I presently live in the Philippines where the city I live in does not have any pinball machines but I came across one from a friend of mine. Went over there today to see this Alvin G Pistol Poker. Not in bad condition. I fixed most of the issues that was wrong with the game. Not starting, Ball kicker plunger was not working, etc etc. My problem is all three flippers are dead. The game is from the Netherlands and was transported over here to the Philippines Never worked on a Alvin G machine. Cleaned the contacts, checked wiring and checked every fuse in the head of the game on the side as well as the fuses on the board and with Williams and Bally the games have a fuse under the play field but this game I did not see a fuse. Is this possible a board issue? I went thru the tests for coils and only ones that did not work is the flipper relay. Need help to resolve this issue. Thank you, Fred

Hi There

We have bought a Pistol Poker for our museum and have one on display.
2 PP’s next to each other is a realy nice view.
We also have an Punchy the Clown, Dinosaur Egg, Soccerball and World Tour.
Still looking for an Mystery Castle.

Regards, Gerard
Dutch Pinball Museum

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