(Topic ID: 262341)

Hobbit Hole mod for the Shire LotR

By PinballCharlie

4 years ago


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“What lighting color do you prefer on Orthanc?”

  • Red 4 votes
    27%
  • White 4 votes
    27%
  • Blue 7 votes
    47%
  • None - surrounding GI is plenty 0 votes

(15 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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There are 181 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 4.
#151 2 years ago
Quoted from etien:

Hello,

Looks promissing; I thought of doing something similar with the ball going through the hobbit door tough, and a structure like the white council of rivendell on top of the gift from the elves ( ball through the waterfall )

Great to hear some opinions and ideas, thanks all!

That really would be sweet. I discussed the possibility of having the ball come through the door on the wireform a couple years back but I think that would block too much of the playfield and also be a really complicated design. These mods have to be designed where making a bunch of them is viable. If it gets too complicated, the amount of time to produce them would end up being be too costly and not viable.

Here is my first crack at GI lighting - shining directly onto Bag End. Not sure it will be possible to design internal lighting. There just isn't a good spot to come up with a wire from below the playfield near that VUK that would be easy for anyone to install.....

IMG_20220212_113726 (resized).jpgIMG_20220212_113726 (resized).jpg
#152 2 years ago

If there was a way, a subtle flicker candle led might look pretty sweet coming from the inside.

#153 2 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

If there was a way, a subtle flicker candle led might look pretty sweet coming from the inside.

That would be crazy awesome. The trouble with fire effect is it usually required a controller and several LEDs to emulate - that is just not available in a two - three LED strip array that I know of. BUT - I just saw Comet makes a "fire effect: LED in a #44 and wedge. I would love to adapt that.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/fire-bulbs

Looking more at how the hell to feed a wire to the mod - I think it wouldn't be too difficult for the end user to remove the VUK in the shire (two or three screws?), slip the wire up through the corner and up to the mod and re-mount the VUK. I could design the mod to internally accommodate a wedge or 44 socket and put that flame led on the 12v coin door rail so it is always on. Also - keep the GI spotlight (like I have now) connected via matrix connector to the slings to it turns on and off with the GI solenoid.

Hmmm - I like where this is going.

#154 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

That would be crazy awesome. The trouble with fire effect is it usually required a controller and several LEDs to emulate - that is just not available in a two - three LED strip array that I know of. BUT - I just saw Comet makes a "fire effect: LED in a #44 and wedge. I would love to adapt that.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/fire-bulbs
Looking more at how the hell to feed a wire to the mod - I think it wouldn't be too difficult for the end user to remove the VUK in the shire (two or three screws?), slip the wire up through the corner and up to the mod and re-mount the VUK. I could design the mod to internally accommodate a wedge or 44 socket and put that flame led on the 12v coin door rail so it is always on. Also - keep the GI spotlight (like I have now) connected via matrix connector to the slings to it turns on and off with the GI solenoid.
Hmmm - I like where this is going.

Great stuff. I'm definitely looking forward to seeing where this goes!

#155 2 years ago

I am making some progress on this mod!

1 - Since it is so close to the player, it will be made of resin - no 3D print lines on this one!

2 - It will use the Comet "Fire" LED to simulate a candlelight inside Bag End. There is an internal wedge socket located behind a hinge mounted access door in the final version, so any 6.5v lamp will work.

3 - Mod will include an incandescent GI lamp to light up the mod. Since it is incandescent it could also be tied into feature lamps..

I am experimenting with attaching the GI lamp to the "MYSTERY" light so the mod will illuminate only when MYSTERY is lit, but the internal candlelight will remain on as long as the GI circuit is on. Unfortunately, I don't have a Matrix 555 connector to test yet.

Not sure yet how I feel about the Comet "Fire" LED. I was hoping it would look a little more random and orange. I might be able to change the color a bit by changing the internal paint color of the mod.

I still have detail and technical work to do on the mod but what you see is pretty close to the final design!

IMG_20220218_084128 (resized).jpgIMG_20220218_084128 (resized).jpgIMG_20220219_134826 (resized).jpgIMG_20220219_134826 (resized).jpgIMG_20220219_135004 (resized).jpgIMG_20220219_135004 (resized).jpgIMG_20220219_140111 (resized).jpgIMG_20220219_140111 (resized).jpg
#156 2 years ago

Man that "Fire" led is the real deal! Hard to say what it looks like in person, especially since you are so zoomed in on video, but I was scared Bilbo left his pipe next to the books, and the place was burning down. : )

#157 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

I am making some progress on this mod!
1 - Since it is so close to the player, it will be made of resin - no 3D print lines on this one!
2 - It will use the Comet "Fire" LED to simulate a candlelight inside Bag End. There is an internal wedge socket located behind a hinge mounted access door in the final version, so any 6.5v lamp will work.
3 - Mod will include an incandescent GI lamp to light up the mod. Since it is incandescent it could also be tied into feature lamps..
I am experimenting with attaching the GI lamp to the "MYSTERY" light so the mod will illuminate only when MYSTERY is lit, but the internal candlelight will remain on as long as the GI circuit is on. Unfortunately, I don't have a Matrix 555 connector to test yet.
Not sure yet how I feel about the Comet "Fire" LED. I was hoping it would look a little more random and orange. I might be able to change the color a bit by changing the internal paint color of the mod.
I still have detail and technical work to do on the mod but what you see is pretty close to the final design!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Agreed, looks a little more like a discoteca then a fire/candle. Have you thought about buying a big pack of led candle flicker tea lights from Amazon and breaking them open for the led and circuitry inside? I've done that before for candle lights for the MM castle windows and they worked great. They are low voltage as they run off of button batteries. They are also very cheap. You can usually get them for a buck or two per light.

#158 2 years ago
Quoted from Boatshoe:

Man that "Fire" led is the real deal! Hard to say what it looks like in person, especially since you are so zoomed in on video, but I was scared Bilbo left his pipe next to the books, and the place was burning down. : )

LOL!! Yeah, it's a little much but it's nowhere near as bad as the video suggests. Filming LEDs is notoriously terrible. I do want to try some other options still, I appreciate all suggestions!

#159 2 years ago

I think I may have "tamed the flame" so to speak by adding a tinted yellow window. That changes the color tone and gives the outgoing light something to refract into. Looks fantastic so far. I would much rather go this route than experiment with other electronic solutions since having an accessible 555 socket to put any light you want into is such a huge plus.

The interior colors play a big roll in the lighting effect, too, so I'm still doing some experimentation.

I'll make an initial batch of five of these (one for me) at around $150 each so I can see whether or not this is a sustainable product. If you are interested, let me know and I can put you on a list. There is still a bit of R&D to go, but it should be ready by early March.

LOTR WINDOW (resized).jpgLOTR WINDOW (resized).jpgdoor1 (resized).jpgdoor1 (resized).jpgdoor2 (resized).jpgdoor2 (resized).jpg
#160 2 years ago

Here is a quick video of the tamed flame in action.

#161 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

I think I may have "tamed the flame" so to speak by adding a tinted yellow window. That changes the color tone and gives the outgoing light something to refract into. Looks fantastic so far. I would much rather go this route than experiment with other electronic solutions since having an accessible 555 socket to put any light you want into is such a huge plus.
The interior colors play a big roll in the lighting effect, too, so I'm still doing some experimentation.
I'll make an initial batch of five of these (one for me) at around $150 each so I can see whether or not this is a sustainable product. If you are interested, let me know and I can put you on a list. There is still a bit of R&D to go, but it should be ready by early March.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

List me bruther...

The tamed brightness really helped. To me the last thing to make the lighting perfect is a slower flicker. Are there any other flame type bulbs that are slower to transition colors? At that speed it's still somewhat strobe like, at least that's the way it looks in the video.

#162 2 years ago

I think what might help most is a youtube video where you show a players perspective rather than 5 inches away from the prototype? Maybe in a dark room? I feel like the light is probably fine, but not when I'm directly staring directly at the window for 5 seconds.

There is a WOZ "fire pot" mod on Mezel Mods that I have on my WOZ. It looks slightly similar to yours.

#163 2 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

List me bruther...
The tamed brightness really helped. To me the last thing to make the lighting perfect is a slower flicker. Are there any other flame type bulbs that are slower to transition colors? At that speed it's still somewhat strobe like, at least that's the way it looks in the video.

Thanks Jarby - got you listed!

I've been doing quite a bit of searching and there is no real good answer to an alternative flicker; this one looks good with the window installed, much better than the video suggests. Having an available wedge socket and lots of room to work within the mod for users to experiment I think is the best option.

Quoted from Boatshoe:

I think what might help most is a youtube video where you show a players perspective rather than 5 inches away from the prototype? Maybe in a dark room? I feel like the light is probably fine, but not when I'm directly staring directly at the window for 5 seconds.
There is a WOZ "fire pot" mod on Mezel Mods that I have on my WOZ. It looks slightly similar to yours.

You're right - I am so concerned with the micro aspects I haven't given a good show of the macro I'll get something up.

Working with resin is a nasty bit. It looks phenomenal and post processing is awesome, but the toxic fumes and skin irritants are just awful. Not sure I will continue to used resin after this trial run.

I've been experimenting with clearcoat types. A good matte finish really makes the colors pop without adding too much gloss. I do love how detailed of a model I can make with resin - it's probably worth an early death for me in the end

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#164 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

Thanks Jarby - got you listed!
I've been doing quite a bit of searching and there is no real good answer to an alternative flicker; this one looks good with the window installed, much better than the video suggests. Having an available wedge socket and lots of room to work within the mod for users to experiment I think is the best option.

You're right - I am so concerned with the micro aspects I haven't given a good show of the macro I'll get something up.
Working with resin is a nasty bit. It looks phenomenal and post processing is awesome, but the toxic fumes and skin irritants are just awful. Not sure I will continue to used resin after this trial run.
I've been experimenting with clearcoat types. A good matte finish really makes the colors pop without adding too much gloss. I do love how detailed of a model I can make with resin - it's probably worth an early death for me in the end [quoted image]

Well my hats are off to you artistically, I wouldn't even know where to begin with this. To say that it would look like a kindergartner did it would probably be an over estimation of my skills...

1 week later
#165 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

Thanks Jarby - got you listed!
I've been doing quite a bit of searching and there is no real good answer to an alternative flicker; this one looks good with the window installed, much better than the video suggests. Having an available wedge socket and lots of room to work within the mod for users to experiment I think is the best option.

You're right - I am so concerned with the micro aspects I haven't given a good show of the macro I'll get something up.
Working with resin is a nasty bit. It looks phenomenal and post processing is awesome, but the toxic fumes and skin irritants are just awful. Not sure I will continue to used resin after this trial run.
I've been experimenting with clearcoat types. A good matte finish really makes the colors pop without adding too much gloss. I do love how detailed of a model I can make with resin - it's probably worth an early death for me in the end [quoted image]

Hi Charlie,

please count me in also. Already got your other LOTR mods and like them very much. This looks great!

#166 2 years ago

Put me on your list as well.

#167 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballWizard666:

Hi Charlie,
please count me in also. Already got your other LOTR mods and like them very much. This looks great!

Thanks for the kind words!! I've got you listed!

Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

Put me on your list as well.

And you! And that's all I am making right now. List is full.

I've been busy working on a Jurassic Park mod so I haven't updated for awhile - but I am making great progress on the mod.

It's now going to have three removable textured resin windows. The 555 socket can be mounted in two directions which completely change the intensity of the fireplace lamp. It's pretty cool. In the (crappy) video below, you can see how changing the direction of the new GI spotlight makes a big difference in the presence of the mod. Pointing it directly at the center of the playfield seems to be my favorite.

There is also lots of room within the mod for users to experiment with their own lighting configurations. Should be really easy to mount and access the hatch in the back with a quick Matrix-style disconnect and one screw to remove the mod on the topside.

Below is a progress picture of the mods I am currently painting for LotR, Hobbit and JP.

BE EUPDATE (resized).jpgBE EUPDATE (resized).jpg
1 week later
#168 2 years ago

UPDATE - here is a pic of the Hobbit hole shire mods at the clearcoat station curing. I am writing the instructions now and am planning to ship these next week. I will also probably create an installation video.

Installation is pretty simple. The entire install can be accomplished with the table on the service rails and probably will take ten minutes; no components need to be removed. It is important that your machine has the clear plastic guard just below the Shire VUK as my mod depends on that for support. Seems like I have seen a couple LotR on the club thread lately that were missing that plastic.

Attached are a couple pics - you can kind of see how the wire harnesses are installed.

I'll PM those on the list next week to get your PayPal info as I prepare for shipping. If you decide you don't want this mod, please let me know:

LIST:

1. JarbyJibbo
2. StrangeSubset
3. PinballWizard666
4. EarlG
IMG_20220311_082542 (resized).jpgIMG_20220311_082542 (resized).jpgPACKAGE (resized).jpgPACKAGE (resized).jpgRAILS (resized).jpgRAILS (resized).jpgSHIREHOLE (resized).jpgSHIREHOLE (resized).jpg

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#169 2 years ago

Can't wait. I'll PM you my info, since I sometimes miss PMs on here.

#170 2 years ago

Heads up - these will be shipping within the next couple days. I have sent you PMs, just want to make sure all is in order. Here is a peak at the final model and a page from the instructions.

Hobbit Hole at the Shire (resized).JPGHobbit Hole at the Shire (resized).JPGHobbit Hole for LOTR docs_Page1 (resized).jpgHobbit Hole for LOTR docs_Page1 (resized).jpg
#171 2 years ago

Anticipation is rising:

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#172 2 years ago

Yes! Please let me know what you think and if installation was easy enough... And I can never see enough pics.

Looking at these pics I posted earlier - I don't have a good one showing how it should look after the install; here is a flash photo showing the two mounting locations for the mod and GI lamp. Notice the added washer to the mod that is included in the package.

I prefer a stronger "fire" effect and not too much GI lighting, so I mounted the new GI lamp towards Balrog and mounted the FIRE LED pointing left. These are adjustments available when you install it.

INSTALL3 (resized).jpgINSTALL3 (resized).jpg
#173 2 years ago

Wow....most amazing mod. I mean I already had your tower, but this one is even better.

First of all, I have to give kudos for the packaging. Litte unboxing here. Box had a big hole, so I was scared, but based on the very good packaging, no harm was done.
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On to the install. Instructions are clear and simple. Got everything installed in maybe 10 minutes.
I did not install the extra GI flood light. Why? I have colored comet GI lights installed under my sling shot plastics, so the GI bulb needed for the extra power wouldn't work for me l, since it would look out of place.
I would suggest a three way splitter instead. I am debating to get a three way splitter or just leave it off, since I already have a few spot lights on my LOTR, so this might be overkill anyhow.
I installed the fire LED for a more drastic effect, ans none of the videos capture the beauty of it. It really looks amazing.
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I do have one challenge though, and I don't know if my posts are to short or my wire ramp to high.
The weight of the mod weighs down on the plastic, enough for the ball to get stuck when coming up from the VUK. If it comes all the way from the top, there is no issue, but I guess it doesn't have enough momentum coming from the vuk. 20220321_211223 (resized).jpg20220321_211223 (resized).jpgMight have to get some extra washers to lift it higher.

#174 2 years ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

Wow....most amazing mod. I mean I already had your tower, but this one is even better.
First of all, I have to give kudos for the packaging. Litte unboxing here. Box had a big hole, so I was scared, but based on the very good packaging, no harm was done.
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
On to the install. Instructions are clear and simple. Got everything installed in maybe 10 minutes.
I did not install the extra GI flood light. Why? I have colored comet GI lights installed under my sling shot plastics, so the GI bulb needed for the extra power wouldn't work for me l, since it would look out of place.
I would suggest a three way splitter instead. I am debating to get a three way splitter or just leave it off, since I already have a few spot lights on my LOTR, so this might be overkill anyhow.
I installed the fire LED for a more drastic effect, ans none of the videos capture the beauty of it. It really looks amazing.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I do have one challenge though, and I don't know if my posts are to short or my wire ramp to high.
The weight of the mod weighs down on the plastic, enough for the ball to get stuck when coming up from the VUK. If it comes all the way from the top, there is no issue, but I guess it doesn't have enough momentum coming from the vuk. [quoted image]Might have to get some extra washers to lift it higher.

Wow! Thanks SO much for all this data! I'll give a full response a little later.

I pulled my glass this morning to look at the clearance from the clear plastic and the wireform - sure enough that ball is very slightly hitting it on my machine, too. It wasn't enough to affect the ball though so I didn't notice.

The solution is to put a washer on each hex post, then the clear plastic, then the mod and put the screws in - that raises the clear plastic enough for the ball to pass untouched.

The 3/8" 6-32 pan screw that holds the mod in place is only long enough for one washer. If you want a washer on top of the mod AND below the plastic, you'll likely need a 1/2" pan screw. I'll stop Home Depot on the way home from work and experiment.

Wow - talk about tight tolerances.

More in a bit - I have to do some dayjobbing

nuts (resized).jpgnuts (resized).jpg
#175 2 years ago

Is the shire mod currently available to order?

#176 2 years ago
Quoted from PBFan:

Is the shire mod currently available to order?

I'm working on a larger run and am shooting for mid April to have them done. It's great to have this forum to work out the small details getting ready for the larger run.

#177 2 years ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

Wow....most amazing mod. I mean I already had your tower, but this one is even better.
First of all, I have to give kudos for the packaging. Litte unboxing here. Box had a big hole, so I was scared, but based on the very good packaging, no harm was done.

Thanks for the kind words and taking those packaging pictures – whew! Glad it survived a puncture hole, jeese! I think the box is roomy enough to take a puncture with the padding and the velvet bag should protect against scratches. The shipping box quality isn’t the best (damn, it’s hard to find good boxes these days

Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

On to the install. Instructions are clear and simple. Got everything installed in maybe 10 minutes.
I did not install the extra GI flood light. Why? I have colored comet GI lights installed under my sling shot plastics, so the GI bulb needed for the extra power wouldn't work for me l, since it would look out of place.
I would suggest a three way splitter instead. I am debating to get a three way splitter or just leave it off, since I already have a few spot lights on my LOTR, so this might be overkill anyhow.
I installed the fire LED for a more drastic effect, and none of the videos capture the beauty of it. It really looks amazing.

Great to hear the installation was easy enough. Did you have any issues threading the bare pins below the playfield and into the Comet connector head? That is my biggest concern.

I know LotRs out there wildly vary in mods. I should add that the supplied lighting is my SUGGESTED lighting configuration but with Comet Matrix connectors, the end user can really do whatever they want. Make sure you don’t supply any more than 6.5v to the FIRE LED though.

I thought about three-way splitting off the 12v/5v at the coin door, but poo-poo'd it as I didn’t want the Hobbit hole to be constantly lit like Mt. Doom and Orthanc. My reasoning are those mods represent some omnipresent evil that is always glowing.

Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

I do have one challenge though, and I don't know if my posts are to short or my wire ramp to high.
The weight of the mod weighs down on the plastic, enough for the ball to get stuck when coming up from the VUK. If it comes all the way from the top, there is no issue, but I guess it doesn't have enough momentum coming from the vuk. [quoted image]Might have to get some extra washers to lift it higher.

One of the design challenges was to get that mod to weigh 3oz or less which I was hoping would be light enough to not sag. Resin is solid and heavy so it took several weight reduction iterations to get it down to that weight with most of the weight leaning towards the left. Looks like I should have got it a little bit lighter.

See my post above to solve the issue. One washer height between the hex spacer and plastic fixed it on mine – let me know if that is enough on yours. Make sure not to overtighten the screw that will now be directly on top of the mod without a washer.

For the production run, I might include a 1/4" #6-32 screw to replace the existing 3/8” screw to allow for an extra washer.

#178 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

Did you have any issues threading the bare pins below the playfield and into the Comet connector head? That is my biggest concern.

Not really, you do need some small hands though, and it took two tries, since tye female connecter didn't fit through the shire plastic opening, so I had to get the male pins through both holes. The connector head was fine, buy I have been working with these for years, so I know how to not Overstreet them when connecting.

#179 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

I might include a 1/4" #6-32 screw to replace the existing 3/8” screw to allow for an extra washer.

You mean 1/2"....I ended up needing 2 washers under the platic.

20220324_210815 (resized).jpg20220324_210815 (resized).jpg
#180 2 years ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

You mean 1/2"....I ended up needing 2 washers under the plastic.
[quoted image]

Oops - Yes, I did mean 1/2"

Two washer for yours? Huh - I wonder what component is causing the variance in clearance height between games or if maybe your hex post is slightly bent towards the playfield?

So did you have to replace your 3/8" screw with a 1/2" pan screw to accommodate two washers on that post?

Thanks for posting - very helpful for future runs!

#181 2 years ago

The front stayed at 3/8, but yes, I replaced the rear that holds the mod with 1/2", just because I wanted to keep the washer on the top as well.

Oh, and my son last night "That looks awesome".

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