Had the "Check fuses F114 and F115" problem occur on TAF last night. Read up in Pinwiki WPC guide and also in Pinside forum thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-down-for-the-count. That thread has info that would be useful if included in Pinwiki. Much of it is already in the Pinwiki guide, but not all. In my case I found that my TP3 reading is very low at 2.5VDC. The output of the 7812 regulator (black lead on ground, red lead carefully on the bottom leg of the 7812) is 12VDC, but the 12v is not getting to the F115 fuse holder as the right side of the fuse holder only registers 2.5VDC with fuse F115 removed. There is no visible evidence of a leak at C2 but even so I'll pull the board, clean and repair as needed any traces and solder joints from the 7812 thru C2 to F115, and replace C2. Hopefully that will do it.

I love guides like Pinwiki and have great admiration for those that know enough and care enough to put this information together for the rest of us that know less but can follow clearly stated diagnostic procedures. With that in mind, perhaps I can suggest a Pinwiki improvement for diagnosing this problem. In the Pinwiki Diagnosing the Problem section 4.13 it says in part "3. Check LED1. If not lit (indicating the absence of “digital” 12V at TP3, then test D1 and D2 (both 1N4004 diodes). If D1/D2 test good, then check continuity from pin 2 of the 7812 voltage regulator at Q2 to J114, pin 1. This verifies the path through F115." Step #4 then continues on for the path where #3 checks out ok. So, what could be improved in step #3? I'll suggest the following more specific diagnostics as part of step #3, all of which I extracted in one form or another from Chris Hibler's helpful dialog in the above mentioned Pinside thread:

Could add some info on how to check D1 and D2 for voltage that corresponds to what was measured at TP8. Voltage at the banded side of D1 should read about .5 - .7v lower than at TP8. Voltage at the banded side of D2 should read .5 - .7v lower than at D1.

Add info on checking the Q2 7812 voltage regulator when D1/D2 check as good. Check the output of the voltage regulator for 12v - black lead on ground, red lead carefully on the bottom leg of the 7812. If the reading isn't 12VDC then the regulator has failed or the regulator solder connections and/or board traces are suspect.

Add info for when the regulator tests good but 12VDC is not received at the F115 fuse holder. Remove fuse F115 and test to make sure the right side of the F115 fuse holder (furthest away from TP3) has 12VDC. If the reading is not 12VDC then the path from the voltage regulator thru C2 to F115 is compromised and/or C2 is bad - remove C2, clean any electrolyte damage in the area, repair traces around C2 as needed, install new 100uf/25V cap at C2 observing correct polarity.

If the right side of the F115 fuse holder (furthest away from TP3) has 12VDC then with F115 fuse installed test to make see if the left side of the F115 fuse holder (closest to TP3) has 12VDC. If no 12VDC there then either F115 fuse is bad or fuse holder has failed or solder connection of fuse holder is bad.

If the left side of the F115 fuse holder has 12VDC then check pin #1 of J114 for 12VDC. If 12VDC not present then continuity from the F115 fuse holder to J114-1 has been compromised.

Cheers. Roy

Yes, a picture is always useful!

I removed the cap at C2 and could immediately see the problem - electrolyte present under the cap. The leak caused a break in the trace between C2 + and Q2 directly under the cap, with perhaps some current still flowing across that break thru the electrolyte itself. However, no electrolyte flowed elsewhere on the board so the damaged trace was invisible while the cap was installed and the appearance of the cap itself looked completely normal (electrolyte seemed to have leaked out the bottom of the cap, not the top).

I cleaned off the electrolyte, put in a solder stitch, and installed a new cap at C2. I left the cap at C2 installed higher than usual off the board so I could solder the cap in from both sides of the board. The trace from Q2 thru C2 + and on to F115 now measures out at 0.001 ohms. Reinstalled the driver board and all is working fine now.

I couldn't figure out how to edit that info on Pinwiki. Perhaps someone could tell me how to accomplish an edit there?

Looks great. Thanks Chris!

Without tools (not even a multimeter) you are not equipped to do the necessary diagnostics. Don't make the existing problem worse! Perhaps you can use the Pinside map here on Pinside to find some Pinside members that live near you, then reach out to them by Pinside PM to see if one of them might come over an help you do some diagnostics.