Any, similar kits? Don't need flashing or color-changing.
Just solid White. I like the magnet to hold strips.
I am having a hard time justifying the price of the real pinstadium.
Maybe it is up to $40 worth of PepBoys lights (or can find at Batteries Plus stores) and little plastic and a couple strips of magnetic tape for $250 or whatever it is.
Thanks
Scott
Yup, I make my own white stadium lights, very easy and straight forward. Check for the Poor Man's stadium lighting thread for all the info and pics.
Yeah, i have made all sorts of led projects in past. Im too lazy to drive around town and get the supplies.
So, any optional kits around.
Key word being, "kits"
Quoted from turbo2nr:I'm too lazy to drive around town and get the supplies, so any optional kits around?
Do we need to get you three quotes, check their references with the Better Business Bureau and then negotiate low pricing for you?
Man, look at you getting things done just by posting on Pinside!
Pinstadiums are pricey, but totally turn key. They also come with Scott, the owner who absolutely goes out of his way to provide support.
Price breakdown for the kits I make for all my games:
Monster USB' White LED strips (Walmart). I like these because they have a remote and you can switch from 4 shades of white, so one of those shades works for every game $5.99 x 2 = $12
Angle bracket rail 4' (Home Depot) $7ish x 2 = $15
Roll of magnet tape (don't need to install tape the full length of the rails. I use three 8" strips spaced apart, end, middle, end) - $6
Superglue (I glue the LED strips to the rails because their adhesive can come loose) - $1
Appliance extension cord (I have a lot of spare cords so never buy one) - $2?
USB power adapters (I have a lot ofold iPhone/phone USB wall plugs and use those - $$?
So my kits are under $40 to make, very easy to make. You're just cutting the LED strips to length and gluing them on the inside of each rail. The rails are perfect length, so no cutting those.
Plug the USB cables from the lights to the extension cord ran from the service outlet to the back bottom of the cabinet. Plug them in. They will not turn off/on with the game plugged into the service outlet, but I power all my games from a master switch, so they do turn off/on with the game.
Grab 2-20" Matrix strips. or several small, etc, and plug them into a Matrix Bulb, from comet.
Or a Back Strip, Apron Strip that are permanent, and side lighting strips as needed....
Done.
Oh, add black spray paint, or whatever color you want the rails to be. I used a brown for Maverick because I had a spray can of brown, and it matched the cabinet perfectly.
Quoted from Marvin:turn on the lights in the room?
Pics of various games I've owned with the DIY kits installed.
20171207_171328 (resized).jpg20180312_225615 (resized).jpg20181007_163537 (resized).jpg20181209_174541_001 (resized).jpg20190222_212456 (resized).jpg20190327_211540 (resized).jpg20190327_211607 (resized).jpgIMG_0149 (resized).jpgIMG_0150 (resized).jpgIMG_0151 (resized).jpgIMG_0155 (resized).jpgQuoted from PoMC:I prefer playing in our dimly lit bar. But sure, a well lit room will accomplish the same goal.
A "dim" game in dark room is also relatively bright. The difference between 0, 50, 100, 150 lumens is the same for each jump. But every one of those jumps is less noticible than the previous one.
Quoted from jarozi:Pinstadiums are pricey, but totally turn key. They also come with Scott, the owner who absolutely goes out of his way to provide support.
We need lights support?
Quoted from PoMC:Price breakdown for the kits I make for all my games:
Monster USB' White LED strips (Walmart). I like these because they have a remote and you can switch from 4 shades of white, so one of those shades works for every game $5.99 x 2 = $12
Angle bracket rail 4' (Home Depot) $7ish x 2 = $15
Roll of magnet tape (don't need to install tape the full length of the rails. I use three 8" strips spaced apart, end, middle, end) - $6
Superglue (I glue the LED strips to the rails because their adhesive can come loose) - $1
Appliance extension cord (I have a lot of spare cords so never buy one) - $2?
USB power adapters (I have a lot ofold iPhone/phone USB wall plugs and use those - $$?
So my kits are under $40 to make, very easy to make. You're just cutting the LED strips to length and gluing them on the inside of each rail. The rails are perfect length, so no cutting those.
Plug the USB cables from the lights to the extension cord ran from the service outlet to the back bottom of the cabinet. Plug them in. They will not turn off/on with the game plugged into the service outlet, but I power all my games from a master switch, so they do turn off/on with the game.
The issue with this is you lose all interactive lighting effects of the game. Many games have gi that dim or go dark at certain point so you lose that with this setup. I made my own for the lower half of the twd, linked to the gi, it was cheap and effective, but always a pain when lifting the pf. In general, I’m not a fan of lighting up the whole pf and prefer accent lighting for some dark areas, particularly the backboard area where there is often some really nice artwork.
Quoted from Lermods:The issue with this is you lose all interactive lighting effects of the game. Many games have gi that dim or go dark at certain point so you lose that with this setup. I made my own for the lower half of the twd, linked to the gi, it was cheap and effective, but always a pain when lifting the pf. In general, I’m not a fan of lighting up the whole pf and prefer accent lighting for some dark areas, particularly the backboard area where there is often some really nice artwork.
Ambiance in a game!!
Quoted from jarozi:Pinstadiums are pricey, but totally turn key. They also come with Scott, the owner who absolutely goes out of his way to provide support.
Maybe and scott might be the nicest dude on earth but they are overpriced and I hated having to take them off and put back on everytime I lifted the playfield.
Quoted from Lermods:The issue with this is you lose all interactive lighting effects of the game. Many games have gi that dim or go dark at certain point so you lose that with this setup. I made my own for the lower half of the twd, linked to the gi, it was cheap and effective, but always a pain when lifting the pf. In general, I’m not a fan of lighting up the whole pf and prefer accent lighting for some dark areas, particularly the backboard area where there is often some really nice artwork.
No issue for me since I don’t want any special effects, just a clean, well lit play field that I can see. I have a set of pin stadiums, was an initial buyer when they were first announced. I don’t like the flashing option, so I leave it disconnected. I don’t want them turning off an on either.
So my light kits are perfect for me. Cheap and they do the job intended.
Quoted from turbo2nr:I now have Five games with pinstadium lights.
Love it very much!
No interest in making my own.
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